To make the assembly of the nacelle and fuselage assembly quicker and more efficient, pre-form the following parts so they can be drying while the stabilizer and rudders are built.


Secure parts numbered N-4 (4 pcs.), N-5 (4 pcs.), and N-6 (2 pcs.) from their laser cut sheets #8 and #9.


Prepare a soaking solution of 1-cup hot water and 1 cup ammonia and pour into a small plastic tub or coffee can.


Soak the rear 2/3’s of the N-4's and the front 2/3's of pieces N-5 and N-6 in this solution for an hour, remove and pat dry.


Shim and weight the pieces as shown with 3/4" and 1/2" (20 and 12.7mm) shims and allow them to dry for a day. Make sure you bend 2 rights and two lefts of N-4 and N-6


Get the two F-13 fuselage bottom pieces from the 1/16" (1.5mm) sheet #2 and the two F-22s from the 3/32" (2.4mm) sheet #3. These need to be preformed before being glued to the fuselage. Soak them in warm water as before then weigh them down with 3/4" (20mm) shims at each end. The weight should be applied about 2/3’s of the way towards the small end of the F-13's and the curved end of the F-22's. Make sure you make a left and right when doing the F-22's.



Cut 8 rib blanks 2-1/4" (57.1mm) long from 3/32"x1/4" (2.4x6.4mm) balsa and 2 end ribs 1-7/8" (47.6mm) long from 1/4" (6.4mm) square. Stack these up side by side with one of the 1/4" (6.4mm) end ribs on the outside of the stack. Align one end against a straight edge, square up the stack, and tape together tightly. True up the squared end with a sanding block then measure 3/8" (9.5mm) in from this end and make a mark, then mark the center 1/8" (3.2mm) in from the edge.
Also mark the top of this stack as shown.


With a 1/8" (3.2mm) bit, drill through the stack at this mark keeping the drill centered all the way through. If you have a drill press with a vice, it makes this job easier. Elongate the holes in the end ribs into a 1/4" (6.4mm) slot.


Cover the stabilizer plan with wax paper then pin down the 1/4" (6.4mm) square leading and trailing edges over the plan.


Cut to length and glue in the ribs where shown on the plan keeping the hole to the rear and the marked side up.
Glue a piece of 1/8"x1/4" (3.2x6.4mm) balsa between the center two ribs at the trailing edge.


38. Cut two 3/8" (9.5 mm) from the end of each 1/8" (3.2 mm) pushrod tubes and insert these as pushrod bushings in the ribs in the four places shown on the plan.
Slide a piece of 1/32" (.8 mm) music wire through the holes and bushings and align the bushings so the wire slides freely from side to side before gluing the bushings in.


Remove the pins, sand the top of the stabilizer frame to get it level, then apply the 1/32" (.8mm) sheeting to the exposed side. When dry, remove from board, and trim excess sheeting.


Use a 1/8" dia. (3.2mm) bit to drill through the bottom of the leading edge, as shown on the plans, to allow the rudder pushrod guide to pass through.


Form the pushrod guide tube using a heat gun. This is easy to do if you insert a toothpick or small bamboo skewer stick in one end then apply bending pressure to the end of the tube as you carefully heat it with a heat gun in the bend area. As the plastic heats up you will feel the resistance decrease. Keep the pressure on until you can get it to bend 180 deg. without kinking as shown in the picture. Hold in this position until it cools. When the pressure is released it will spring open and you should have a nice tight 90 deg. bend, without kinks.


Trim the tube to length and check to make sure the .027" (68mm) cable slides easily through the tube. Hint: The cable will slide easier if you pre bend it to the rough shape of the tube. When satisfied with the fit, glue the tube in as shown. You will need to elongate the hole in the rib where the tube goes through next to the wire.


Get the 3/32"x1-1/2" brass tube from the hardware bag and cut it into four equal sections. This can be easily done by rolling the tubing on a hard surface while applying pressure with a sharp knife on the cut line.


Slide the 1/32" dia. x16" (.8x406mm) music wire pushrod into the stab. Pass it through the 3/32" (2.4mm) brass tube solder sleeve in the bay where the wire and cable are soldered together and on out the other side until the wire is centered.


Slip the cable into the sleeve with the wire and adjust until the sleeve is about half way between the rib bushing and the cable tube. Slip a scrap piece of balsa wood between the sleeve and the bottom skin to protect the skin.
Now solder this assembly together using STA-BRITE® silver solder and flux. When cool remove the scrap of wood and check for freedom of motion.


Sand the bottom flat and glue on the bottom 1/32"(.8mm) skin then trim. Round off the leading edge.


Cut and pin down the 1/4" (6.4 mm) square elevator leading edges and the 3/32"x1/4" (3.7x6.4 mm) trailing edges. Cut to length and glue in the 3/32"x1/4" (3.7x6.4mm) ribs leaving them full depth for now. Glue the SG gussets in the inner corners as shown.


48. Remove the elevators from the plan, sand them to the tapered shape and bevel the leading edge.


To make the elevator joiner and control horn, you will need the 3-1/2" (88.9mm) piece of 1/16" (1.5mm) music wire, the 1/16" (1.5mm) I.D. wheel collar, the 4-40 headless set screw, and the 4-40 RC link from the hardware bag.
Mark the exact center of the wire and file a slight flat there. Slide the 1/16" wheel collar onto the wire until the setscrew is positioned directly over the flat, put a drop of Loctite® thread locker or medium CA in the set screw hole and tighten the screw tight against the flat.


Put a drop of Loctite® or medium CA on the set screw threads and screw the 4-40 RC link down on the setscrew until it contacts the wheel collar.
It is important that when the glue sets that the pin in the RC link is parallel to the music wire.


Measure out 1" (25.4mm) from each side of the wheel collar on each side and mark. Bend the wire 90 deg. at each mark making sure the bends are 90 deg. from the control horn and parallel to each other.


Mark the center of the bottom of the stabilizer at the trailing edge then make a mark 1/8" (3.2mm) either side of the center mark. Saw 1/8" (3.2mm) deep at each mark and remove the wood in between. This provides clearance for the wheel collar on the control horn.


To mark where to drill the elevators for the control horns, pin the elevators to the stabilizer with the outboard ends about 1/16" (1.5mm) in from the rudders.
Lay the control horn over the elevators with the collar centered in the notch and mark where the wires need to enter the elevators.


Remove the elevators and drill with a 1/16" (1.5 mm) bit where you have marked. Cut a 1/16" wide and 1/16" (1.5 x 1.5mm) deep groove from the drilled hole to the inside end of the elevator. Trial-fit the elevator horn into the elevators and make any adjustments needed to get the wire to lay flush with the elevator leading edge and the elevator leading edge to match the stabilizer trailing edge.


Place pieces of wax paper on the stabilizer where the horn will contact it. Use 5-minute epoxy or thick CA to glue the horn into the elevators and then pin up against the stab to hold everything in alignment while the glue sets.


On a piece of wax paper glue the RUTs to the top of the RUs then sand smooth and round the edges. Smooth and round the VSs also and layout the lines where they will glue onto the ends of the stabilizer.

Drill and slot to match the rudder pushrod exits in the end ribs.



The nacelles are built similar to the fuselage and you can use them to master the shaping technique that will be used on the fuselage later.


Taper the last 3/8" (9.5mm) of the inside rear of each nacelle side.


Insert N-1 and N-2 between a right and left side and use a rubber band to hold then together.


Place this assembly on a flat surface with N-1 facing down. If you are using CA glue this should be done on a piece of wax paper. Square the sides to the work surface and glue this assembly together.


Insert N-3 into the proper slots on the inside of the nacelle sides, pull the rear of the sides together, and glue them together.


Center the wide end of N-6 on the bottom flat of N-1 so that it overhangs the front about 1/16" (1.5 mm), align the rear of F-6 with the rear of the nacelle and glue into position.


To add the N-5 bottom corner pieces, it is now necessary to bevel the edges of the sides and bottom to match the angles on the bottom of the bulkheads as shown.


Glue the preformed N-5's to the bottom corners of the nacelle.


Round off the bottom of the nacelle now by first sanding the edges of the N-5 down flush with the sides and bottom. Now round off the remaining corners to obtain a well-rounded shape. The tops of the nacelles will be finished off after they are mounted on the wing.


Repeat these steps for the remaining nacelle.

NOTE: Now is the time to decide if you want to install landing gear. If you choose this option, refer to the optional landing gear drawing below. If you choose to build this model without the optional landing gear, proceed to next step.


Optional Main Landing Gear

Parts Required (not furnished)
  • 2 - SIGSH596 Nose Wheel Strut
  • 2 - SIGSH523 1/8" Landing Gear Clips
  • 1 pair - KAV0098 2" Wheels
  • 1 pkg. - SIGSH586 1/8" Wheel Collars

Assembly Sequence
  1. Build nacelles through to step 65.
  2. Cut out 2 gear mounting plates from hard plywood.
  3. Drill holes at the locations shown on the drawing.
  4. Bend the gear strut as shown and screw it to the mounting plate using SIGSH523 Landing Gear Clips.
  5. Cut opening in the bottom of the nacelle to clear the coil spring.
  6. Glue the gear strut assembly to the back of N-2.



Locate and remove both fuselage sides from the two #4 sheets and mark a left and right side.


Using bulkhead F-4 in its slot on both fuselage sides at the leading edge of the wing as a guide, draw a line to the top of the fuselage at the front of the bulkhead. This line locates the joint between F-11 and F-12.


Do the same with F-8 in its slot at the tail end. This locates the front of the 1/8"x1/4" (3.2x6.4mm) balsa stabilizer braces.



Glue on F-11, F-12, and the 1/4" (6.4 mm) square parts at the nose.


Glue in the 1/8"x1/4 " (3.2x6.4mm) stabilizer supports.


Glue in the 1/4" (6.4mm) square balsa wing hold down plate supports ahead of F-6 and below F-12.


Locate bulkheads F-4, F-5, and F-6 and glue onto one fuselage side, making sure they are perpendicular to the side.


Glue the other side to these bulkheads.


Glue the 3 F-20s together then glue them onto the 1/4" (6.4mm) square wing hold down supports and F-6. This will help hold the fuselage square for the following steps.


Insert and glue in F-3, F-2, and F-1 in that order.


Glue in F-7 making sure the pushrod guide hole nearest the top of the fuselage is closest to the right side when looking towards the front.


Glue in F-8 making sure the top pushrod guide hole is to the right as in the previous step.


Glue in F-9 making sure the pushrod guide hole is offset to the left, and then add F-10.


Double check the fuselage for straightness at this point, then go back and double glue all your bulkheads to the fuse sides.


Install the two 1/8" (3.2mm) nylon pushrod guide tubes. Sand the bottoms of F-1, F-2, and F-3 to an angle to match the curvature of the F-16 bottom sheeting.


Notice the notch at the rear of F-13. This notch engages the tab on the bottom of F-5. Glue an F-13 to F-5 and F-4, making sure that the front of F-13 centers on F-1. When these are dry glue to F-3, F-2, and F-1.


Laminate the second F-13 on top of the one that is glued to the formers.

NOTE: If you are installing landing gear, now is the time to make provisions for the tail wheel. Refer to the drawing below. If you are not adding landing gear to your model, proceed to the next step.


Optional Tail Wheel Installation

Parts Required (not furnished)
  • 1 - 1/32" Dia. x18" Music Wire
  • 1 - 1/8" O.D. x18" Plastic Tube
  • 1 - 1/16" Dia. x3-1/4" Music Wire
  • 1 - SIGSH132 Tailwheel Bracket
  • 2 - #4x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws
  • 1 - 1/16" I.D. Wheel Collar
  • 1 - 3/4" Dia. Tailwheel
  • 1 - 1/32"x3/16"x1/2" Brass Strip Stock
  • 1 - 1/8"x1-1/2"x2-1/2" Lite-Ply
  • 2 - 1/4"x2-1/2" Balsa Triangular Stock


Glue F-24 on the bottom of the rear fuselage.


Glue F-18 to the top aft of the wing.


Bevel all the corners on the top of the fuselage from the wing to the tail and the bottom of the fuselage like you did on the bottom of the nacelles.


Glue the F-22's to the lower nose section starting from F-5 and working forward. Sand the edges of the F-22's flush with the F-13's then laminate the F-14 through F-18 over them. Taper the back edge of F-18 to fair into F-24.


87. Glue the F-23's to the lower rear fuse from F-5 back.


With the 3/32"x1" (2.4x25.4mm) balsa strips glue the top rear corners in from F-6 to the tail.


Sand the top of the fuselage so that the sides between F-1 and F-2 are perfectly flat.


Fit the 1/4"x1-3/4"x1-1/2"(6.4x44.5x 38.1mm) balsa piece on the top of the nose from F-1 back to the rear of F-2 and glue in. Now sand the front and back of this block until it matches F-1 and F-2.


Trace the nose block and tail block outlines from the plans onto a sheet of paper, cut them out, and glue them on the proper blocks with a glue stick. The glue stick will hold them while you saw the blocks to the outline then they will peel off easily. Tip: When cutting out the blocks. Cut them about 1/32" (.8mm) oversize. It is a lot easier to sand off a little excess than to try to add wood later.


Glue the blocks on the fuselage in their proper places.


Glue F-3T to the fuselage side at the rear of the hatch area. The angle of the bulkhead should match the angle on the fuselage sides and the corners that meet the sides should be flush with the top of F-11.


Bevel the bottom of the F-25s to match the top surface of the sides between F-3T and F-4 and glue these pieces onto the bulkheads. Sand the front and rear of the F-25 flush with the bulkheads, then sand the tops of them down, flush with the tops of the bulkheads.


Glue the 1/4"x1-3/4"x1-1/2" (6.4x44.5x38.1mm) block on the top of this section.


Remove excess wood then round off the fuselage, as you did the nacelles.


Join HB-1 and HB-2 on a flat surface.


Sand the top of the fuselage in the hatch area until it is perfectly flat and the top blocks behind F-3T and ahead of F-2 flush with the bulkheads. Tape a piece of wax paper over the hatch area then pin the HB pieces down over the wax paper. This forms the base of the battery hatch and cockpit.


Bevel the bottom of HR so it makes a good joint with HB-2 and glue it on the rear of the hatch so it lays flush against F-3T.


100. Glue HF to the front of the hatch, centered on F-2.


There are four HS's on sheet #6. Bevel the bottom of one of these to sit flush on the hatch bottom and snug against F-3T. Now do the same for the other side.


Laminate the other two HS's to the outside of the two that are glued down in the same way.


While the hatch is still pinned in place drill a hole with a 1/8" (3.2mm) bit through the hole in the front of HF through former H-2.


Remove the hatch from the fuselage and glue a 3/8" (9.5 mm) piece of 1/8" (3.2mm) dowel into the front of the hatch so that about 3/16" (4.8mm) sticks out the front.


Sand a flat area on the top front part of the hatch sides and glue down the 1/4"x1-3/4"x1-1/2" (6.4x44.5x38.1mm) top block. Sand this part flush with the front of the hatch and the instrument panel in the rear then glue in HP.


Pin the hatch assembly back onto the fuselage and rough shape the nose back to the wing opening.



Sand a 2" (50.8mm) wide flat at the trailing edge and leading edge in the center of the wing. This will allow F-4T to slip between F-4 and the leading edge of the wing. Mark the exact center of F-6 and F-4. See Drawing.


Fit wing onto the fuselage lining the centerline of the wing up to the centers you marked on the bulkheads and to make sure there is room for F-4T at the leading edge.


Glue the 3/16" (4.8mm) dowel into the hole in F-4T so that 1/4" (6.4mm) protrudes from the front, then cut the dowel on the backside off flush with the bulkhead.


110. Trial fit F-4T and dowel into place on F-4 making sure F-4T and F-4 are flush to each other. Remove F-4T, lay a sheet of waxed paper between it and F-4 in the wing saddle and replace F-4T.


Place the wing back into the wing saddle making sure the flat at the leading edge of the wing is flush with F-4T and the centerlines are in position. Tack-glue the wing to F-4T being careful not to allow excess glue to seep between the bulkheads and the dowel.


When dry remove the wing and finish gluing F-4T to the leading edge. For extra strength glue a 1-1/2" (38.1mm) piece of fiberglass tape in the joint between the bottom of F-4T and the bottom of the leading edge.


Place the wing back on the fuse and check the fit.You may have to relieve the trailing edge a little to allow the wing to seat in the saddle. Check the fit of F-6T against F-6 and the top of the wing. The edges of F-6T should match F-6 when sitting on top of the wing.


Remove the wing and place a piece of wax paper under the trailing edge and up F-6. Slip a 1/32" (.8mm) shim between the waxed paper and F-6 to position F-6T properly, replace the wing then glue F-6T onto the trailing edge of the wing. You should now be able to remove and insert the wing without difficulty.


Glue a 3/16"x1/4" (4.8x6.4mm) balsa shim on the wing bolt platform, W-13, sand a slight flat on the bottom as shown on cross section W-1 on the plans, then glue this to the wing and F-6T in the center.


Center wing on the fuselage and drill perpendicular to W-13 through the pre-cut hole all the way through the wing and the F-20 plate in the fuselage with a 13/64" (5.3mm) bit.


Remove the wing and enlarge the hole in the fuselage plate to 1/4" (6.4mm). Using a 10-32 bolt and washers pull the 10-32 blind nut into the mounting plate and glue. If any of the blind nut protrudes above the plate, file or grind it off flush and clean the threads.


Layout the position of the sides of the wing trailing edge fuselage fairing. Measure 2-1/8" (54mm) forward from F-6T on the centerline and make a mark. Then measure 1" (25.4mm) off to each side of the centerline and mark as shown. Fit the two WFSs to the top surface of the wing and glue them down to the sides of F-6T and with the tips centered on the marks.


119. Taper the rounded end of the WFT top so it blends into the top of the wing and glue it onto the top of F-6T and onto the centerline of the wing.


Sand a 45 deg. angle along the sides of WFT to match former F-6T.


Fit and glue the WFC pieces onto the corners of the fairing by beveling the bottom to match the top of WFS and the wing skin.


Lay strips of masking tape along the sides of the WFSs to protect the wing skin and sand the excess off the top of the WFCs.


Run the 13/64" (5.3mm) drill back through the hole for the bolt and through the top of the fairing piece to mark the location of the wing hold down bolt. Install guide tube now, if desired.


Sand the fairing pieces flush to the rear of F-6T and bolt the wing onto the fuselage again. Now shape the fairing to blend into the rear of the fuselage.


With scraps of 1/8"(3.2mm) balsa from the laser cut sheets fill between F-4T and the top of the wing and blend into the front of the fuselage over F-4 up to F-3T.

This completes the basic shaping of the wing and fuselage joint and now it is time to add the nacelles.


Install the servo wires for the speed controls and aileron servos at this time. You will need two 12" extensions for the speed controls and two for the aileron servos. Tie the plugs together in the center of the wing at the ends of a 6" piece of string to make sure you don't pull them up into the wing by mistake, while working on the nacelles.


On the bottom of the wing measure out 5-9/16" (141.3mm) from the centerline at both the leading edge and trailing edge and extend these marks until they are visible from the top of the wing. These are the centerlines that the nacelles are mounted on. From the nacelle centerline at the leading edge of each wing measure 1/4" (6.4mm) towards the wing tip and make a mark. From this mark measure 1-1/2" (38.1mm) towards the center of the wing and cut into the front of the leading edge at this mark 3/32" (2.4mm) deep.
See Drawing.

Remove a tapered piece from the leading edge from the outboard mark to the bottom of this cut. This gives a flat spot on the leading edge for the top of N-2 to glue to.


128. Mark the nacelles to identify left and right wing.Check the fit of each nacelle to its respective wing and correct if needed.


Mark the exact center of the nacelle on the rear of N-2 so it can be seen when it is fitted to the wing.


Thread the motor and esc wire through the holes in N-2 and N-1 then fit the nacelles to the bottom of the wing. Line up the centerlines at N-2 and the rear of the nacelles to the centerline marks on the wing, and if everything looks good, glue the nacelle to the wing.


Repeat on the other nacelle.


Bevel the bottom edge of N-7 to fit the nacelle sides then bevel the curved surface to fit the wing before gluing on the corners of the nacelles. There are four of these and each needs to be fitted individually.


When all the N-7s are glued in sand the tops down flush with the tops of N-1 and N-2 and back to the top skin of the wing. Taper the rounded end of N-8 until it blends into the curve of the top skin of the wing when sitting on the flattened off N-7s and glue down.

Glue triangular pieces of scrap on the top of the nacelles behind the trailing edge and blend into the wing skins and sides of the nacelles.


Lay down masking tape on the top skin next to the N-7s to protect the wing skin while the top of the nacelle is rounded off and blended in.


Finish sand the entire wing. Use your favorite filler on any imperfections and to radius the nacelle and wing fairing joints.
136. Since the pushrods to the tail are internal they need to be installed when the stabilizer is glued in. To make this job easier, cover stabilizer and elevators first. Then cut the hinge slots for the elevator and stabilizer, at the trailing edge of the stabilizer and the leading edge of the elevator. Cut the seven 1"x3/4" SIG Easy Hinges in half lengthwise, giving you 14 hinges measuring 1/2"x3/4". Make sure each hinge fits correctly, but do not glue the hinges yet. Use four here and set the rest aside for later.

Installing Easy Hinges
SIG’s famous Easy Hinges have been included in your kit to hinge all of the control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is actually a three-part laminate - a tough plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbent wicking material. The hinges have been chemically treated to slow down the reaction to thin CA glue (normally instant), to allow the glue time to soak all the way to the ends of the hinge and into the surrounding wood. Once the glue has set, the hinge cannot be pulled out of the structure without also tearing out the surrounding wood. All surfaces should be covered before hinging. Follow this hinging sequence for best results:
  • Begin by inserting all of the required hinges halfway into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer. Carefully slip each exposed hinge end into its corresponding slot in the elevators.
  • To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevators downward to the maximum amount of their movement while firmly holding the elevators to the trailing edge of the stabilizer. For best control response, the gap between the stab and elevators should be as small as possible but large enough to allow full, non-binding movement. Pieces of tape can be used to hold the elevators in the correct position to the stabilizer. Starting with one hinge, apply four small drops of THIN CA glue directly onto the exposed hinge at the centerline. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge. Go to the next hinge and again apply four small drops of thin CA glue to the exposed hinge at the centerline. Repeat this process with the remaining hinges. Remove the tape holding the flexed elevators, allowing the elevators to return to their more or less neutral position.


  • Turn the structure over and again flex the elevators downward and holding them in this position with pieces of tape. As you did with the top sides of the hinges, apply four small drops of thin CA glue to each of the hinges at the centerline. Remove the tape holding the elevators, allowing them to return to their neutral setting.
  • Allow about ten minutes for the glue to fully wick and set. After this time has passed, flex the elevators up and down several times, through their full deflection. This should free up their movement. Continue flexing the elevators until they can be easily moved. Any excess CA glue can be easily removed with SIG Debonder.


In order to install the stabilizer, the top of the fuselage behind F-9 needs to be removed. Using a fine-tooth razor saw, cut vertically down through the top of the fuselage to the stabilizer slot, just behind F-9. Make the second cut slanted at a 45 deg. angle towards the front so that it comes out at the rear of the slot at the hinge line. Set this piece aside as it needs to be replaced later.


Bolt the wing in place as a reference to level the stabilizer. Set the stabilizer down into the slot, center and square it to the fuselage, then level to the wing, sanding the sides if needed to make it sit level. When all is square and level mark the covering at the sides of the fuselage and cut the part covered by the fuselage away for better glue joints. Also, make sure the rudder pushrod will clear F-9 and trim the bulkhead if needed. The elevators are now hinged in place to the stabilizer.


The elevator pushrod is now made. Remove the mounting flange from the aileron interplane horn and drill two 3/64" (1.2mm) holes as shown. Make two right angle bends on one end of a 1/32"x24" (0.8x610mm) music wire pushrod as shown.
Insert this wire into the two holes that were drilled with the long end of the wire in the hole farthest from the preformed end.
Bend the long end 90 deg. towards the front and the short end to the rear to permanently lock the nylon horn onto the wire.

Slide this pushrod into it’s guide tube from the rear and make sure it moves freely.


Prepare the other 1/32"x24" (.8mm x610mm) music wire pushrod for the rudder by cleaning and sanding one end of the wire to prep for solder. Insert the cleaned end of this wire into the rudder pushrod tube from the servo end until it comes out of the stabilizer opening in the rear far enough so you can solder the rudder cable onto it. Be careful not to pull it completely out of the tube, as it is very difficult to reinsert it once the solder joint is made. Slip the 3/32" o.d. (2.4mm) brass solder coupler on the cleaned end of the wire, then slip the rudder cable from the stabilizer into the coupler along side of the wire. Verify that full travel can be obtained and solder together with STA-BRITE® silver solder. Trim off any excess wire and cable.


Set the stabilizer in place on the fuselage and check the rudder pushrod for freedom of movement. If you are satisfied with the freedom, lift the stabilizer part of the way out of its saddle and connect the elevator pushrod, reset the stabilizer and again check both controls for freedom of movement. You want to make sure these work properly now as they are going to be sealed in the fuselage permanently.


Square the stabilizer up again, then glue it to the fuselage.


142. Fit the fuselage top back over the stabilizer, trim the covering on the top of the stabilizer, then glue the top down. Sand and fill as needed to blend into fuselage top.


Fill-in any dents or dings as required, followed by finish sanding the fuselage.


Trim and trial fit the canopy at this time. The front of the canopy should be about 1/8" (3mm) behind the part line at the front of the hatch and the sides should be about even with the bottom of the hatch.
Using the small circles punched out of the sides of MM-2 motor mount, fabricate and locate the canopy hold down block and sand to fit the canopy.

This mount should sit on a flat spot on the top of the fuselage centerline about 5/8" (15.9 mm) back from the part line at the rear of the hatch. Do not glue down or drill at this time.


Before finishing the cowls and engine mounts, notice that there is a small hole in the center of the firewall. This hole denotes the center of the thrust line and the center of the firewall. Draw two lines through the center of this hole, one horizontal and one vertical.


Remove a plywood cowl ring from sheet #11 and use it as a template to mark the location for the cowl hold down screws on the horizontal line after centering the ring from side to side.


If you are going to use the included motor mount, you will also want to locate it's mounting screws on the vertical line at this time. The middle hole on the motor mount rear bulkhead MM-1 is the center of the thrust line and should be centered over the hole in the firewall. Pilot drill these 8 holes with a 3/64" (1.2mm) bit and apply a couple of drops of thin CA to each hole to harden the wood.


Trim the cowls to length and mark for the cowl ring. A handy tool for marking these accurately can be made from scrap wood. Follow the drawings and pictures on how to do this.


The cowl ring is inserted in the cowl until the rear of the ring just touches its line on the cowl. Glue this in with medium CA when it is properly positioned.


Cut out the front of the cowl, just inside of the lip, and open up and smooth the opening with sandpaper wrapped around a 1" diameter dowel.


149. The provided motor mount parts were designed for the FlyWARE REX220 brushless outrunner motor. However, they should fit most other 22 mm diameter motors, with little, if any, modifications. If you need to modify the front of the mount to fit your motor, it is easiest to do this now, before assembly. Assemble the mounts using the MM-1-2-3-4 parts as shown in the drawing.
150. If you use a different type of mounting, be sure to center the thrust line on the centering hole on the firewall and allow 3-1/4" from the firewall to the rear of the prop.


Cover the vertical stabilizers, locate their position on the ends of the horizontal stabilizer, and remove the covering where they will glue together and for the rudder pushrods. Glue these on making sure they are vertical to stabilizer and the hinge lines are perpendicular to the same. Make sure the rudder pushrod does not get glued down.


Cover the rudders and hinge them to the vertical stabilizers.


Finish covering the model in your chosen color scheme.

COVERING TIPS: It helps your covering job if you brush some SIG STIX-IT over the concave areas where you have formed fillets and other areas that have been filled. Also, brush some on other areas that are difficult to seal down such as wing leading and trailing edge overlaps, aileron leading and trailing edges and ends, center section fiberglass, and wing tip edges. Pre-cover the concave sections around the nacelles, the fuselage fairings at the center of the wings, and the stabilizer-fuselage joints with 1/2" (12.7mm) wide strips.


Detail the cockpit at this time. The instrument panel is copied from pictures of the full sized aircraft and is included on a separate sheet inserted in the manual. We like to line the cockpit floor and sides with colored construction paper to give the illusion of depth in this area.


Tape a piece of wax paper over the top of the fuselage so it covers up where you don't want the canopy to stick. Set the canopy in position and lightly mark where it crosses the hatch part line at the rear. Remove the canopy and apply a very small bead of epoxy on the inside of the edge from the front back to about 1/8" (3.2 mm) ahead of the part line, set the canopy in position on the hatch and tape it down until the epoxy cures. Be careful to avoid getting epoxy into the hatch part line, as this will make removing the hatch very challenging.


When the glue has cured, remove the hatch and cut away the covering where the hold down will glue down, then glue it down solid. Trial-fit the hatch and canopy back onto the fuselage and shape the disk until it matches the inside of the canopy. If the disc is not high enough to meet the canopy, add another disk and work from there.


Once you have a tight fit, drill through the canopy and through the center of the disk with 3/64" (1.2 mm) bit, remove the canopy and apply 4 drops of thin CA to the hole in the disk. A #2 x3/8" socket head sheet metal screw with a #2 washer can now be used to hold the hatch/canopy assembly down and allow easy access to the battery compartment. You can paint this disk to simulate radio equipment to help disguise it.


Clean the plastic cowls with soap and water and then dry. Lightly sand the cowls with #400 or finer sandpaper to break the glaze on the plastic. Just before you paint, wipe them down with alcohol. With this kind of preparation, most paints will cover nicely without primer. Since fuel is not a problem, acrylic paints can be used. Most craft stores have a huge assortment of colors to choose from in these paints in both flat and gloss tones. The canopy frames can be masked off and painted or the frames can be simulated with trim tape.