The following is a little history of the original development of this unique and handsome aircraft. The Dornier Do 217 was a later development of the original Do 17 series of bombers and reconnaissance aircraft. The prototype Do 17 first flew in 1938 and was not especially successful. Never-the-less development continued and early pre-production Do 217A-O's undertook a variety of clandestine photo-recon missions over the Soviet Union, prior to the German attack in 1941. Further development of the type produced the E-2 variant, originally conceived as a divebomber. However trials proved this unpractical and the E-2 was ultimately used for bombing raids over Great Britain and for antishipping missions over the North Sea and the Atlantic.


The Do 217J-1 variant was developed and used as a stopgap night fighter to counter the increasing number of bomber raids over Germany in 1942. Modified from the E-2, the J-1 had a solid, non-glazed nose, bristling with four 20mm cannons and four 7.9mm machine guns.

This brings us to Spring 1943, when the Do 217N-2R22 variant went into production as a dedicated and heavily armed night fighter. This aircraft retained the solid nose with the four cannon and four machine guns in place. But in addition, it also carried another four 20mm cannons mounted in the top of fuselage, behind the canopy. These weapons fired upwards at a 70O forward angle. This unusual armament system was used effectively against Allied bomber formations and was called "Schräge Musik". Later versions also included the Lichtenstein SN-2 radar system, with its unique antenna array on the fuselage nose.

The SIG Do 217 is strictly a sport scale model and not necessarily based on any particular variant. Instead, we leaned on both the J-1 and 2R22 night fighter versions of this airplane to create our own R/C version. If you desire, the SIG Do 217 lends itself to a lot of details that would look great on this model.

The recent and rapid development of super-efficient electric motors and certainly lithium polymer batteries have both served to make multi-engine models a very practical reality. Our prototype Do 217 models have proven to be outstanding R/C aircraft, both in terms of performance and looks. We've flown our own prototypes a great deal and can report to you for sure that they are solid flying models with surprisingly honest flying characteristics. When powered with a couple of appropriately sized brushless outrunner motors, swinging the recommended prop sizes, the airplane will have a wide speed range and should be capable of some very nice - although not necessarily scale - aerobatics. While the SIG Do 217 is a comfortable model to fly, we do not recommend it as a first R/C model. But we can and do highly recommend the Do 217 as your first semi-scale twin electric model!

This assembly manual will guide you through each construction phase in detail and is further enhanced with photos that visually assist you with each step. It is important that you follow the construction sequence carefully and accurately to achieve the best results.

Reference Material

"GERMAN AIRCRAFT of WORLD WAR II", Edited by David Donald, Published by Motorbooks International, Osceola, WI

Kit Specifications:ImperialMetric
Wing Span47 in.1194 mm
Wing Area324.6 sq. in.20.9 dm2
Length37.5 in.953 mm
Flying Weight (typ)30 - 35 oz.850 - 990 g
Wing Loading14.2 - 16 oz./sq. ft.43.3 - 48.7 g/dm2
Motor (2 Required)40 - 70 Watt Motors
Radio Equipment4 Channels, (w/Mini Receiver & 3 or 4 Micro Servos)
Kit NumberSIGRC99

Required Tools & Supplies

  • Glues - SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy, SIG-Bond Glue, SIG Thin, Medium and Thick CA Glue
  • Loctite® Non-Permanent Thread Locker
  • Hobby Knife with Sharp #11 Blades
  • SIG AeroKote® or AeroKote-Lite®
  • Covering Tools - Heat Gun, Iron, Trim Seal Tool
  • Power Drill and hand "pin" vise (for smaller diameter drill bits as needed)
  • An assortment of drill bits and/or a numbered drill index
  • Soldering Iron and solder - STA-BRITE® Silver Solder suggested

  • Building Board
  • Modelers "T" pins
  • Waxed Paper
  • Sandpaper - assorted grits
  • Selection of Pliers
  • Selection of Screwdrivers
  • Razor Blades
  • Tweezers


Balsa Sticks and Sheets
51/16"x3"x36" Balsa sheets for wing sheeting 41/16"x2"x36" Balsa sheets for wing sheeting 21/32"x3"x18" Balsa sheet for stabilizer sheeting 21/16"x3/16"x36" Balsa sticks for cap strips
21/4"x1/2"x24" Shaped balsa leading edge 13/32"x1"x36" Balsa for fuselage 23/32"x1/4"x36" Balsa stabilizer parts 21/8"x1/4"x36" Balsa for assorted parts
21/4"x1/4"x36" Balsa for assorted parts 15/16"x1-1/4"x24" Balsa tapered trailing edge for ailerons 31/4"x1-3/4"x1-1/2" Balsa for top front nose block 11-3/4"x1-3/4"x1" Balsa for nose block
13/4"x1-3/4"x1-1/4" Balsa for tail block
Laser Cut Balsa
21/16"x3"x24" Sheet #1 wing ribs 11/16"x3"x24 Sheet #2 assorted parts 13/32"x4"x36" Sheet #3 fuselage parts 23/32"x3"x36" Sheet #4 fuselage sides
11/8"x3x36" Sheet #5 fuselage parts 11/8"x3"x24" Sheet #6 fuselage parts 11/8"x3"x24" Sheet #7 assorted parts 11/8"x4"x24" Sheet #8 nacelle parts
11/8"x4"x24" Sheet #9 nacelle sides
Laser Cut Plywood - Lite Ply
11/8"x4"x24" Sheet #10 assorted parts 11/8"x6"x16" Sheet #11 assorted parts
Hardwood Parts
61/8"x3/16"x24" Spruce wing spars and doublers 11/8" dia.x4" Dowel for hatch hold down 13/16" dia.x2" Dowel for wing hold down
Wire Parts
21/32"x36" Music wire for pushrods 11/16"x3-1/2" Music wire for control horn 1.027"x6" Steel cable for rudder pushrod 130" #20 wire Red electrical cable for motor wiring
130" #20 wire Black electrical cable for motor wiring
11/16" I.D. wheel collar Elevator horn 54-40x3/8" headless setscrew Elevator horn & pushrod connectors
14-40 metal threaded RC link Elevator horn 110-32 blind nut Wing hold down 16#2x7/16" sheet metal screws, socket head w/washer 22-56 metal threaded RC links Aileron linkage
22-56 threaded steel rods Aileron linkage 4Pushrod connectors Control hook ups
Miscellaneous Parts
11"x24" glass tape Wing center section 1Aileron interconnect horn Elevator pushrod 1Small control horn - right Aileron linkage 1Small control horn - left Aileron linkage
21/8"x24" Nylon tubes Pushrod guides 110-32x1" Nylon bolt Wing hold down 7Easy-hinges Control surfaces 13/32" O.D.x1-1/2" Brass tube Solder couplings
2Plastic cowls Vacuum formed ABS 1Clear canopy Vacuum formed butyrate 1SIGDKM299 Decal sheet 1SIGRPIP299 Instrument Panel
1Full sized plan 1Assembly Manual

Key To Laser-Cut Parts

Use a pencil to identify each of the kit parts according to the following diagrams.
Note: When it is time to remove a part from its sheet, use a sharp #11 blade to slice through the small bridges that hold the part to the sheet. Do not try to push the parts out of the sheet without first cutting through the bridges. Doing so may cause damage to the part.

Construction Overview

Since the Do-217 kit is a somewhat more complex airplane, compared to typical sport models, the building sequence presented in this manual should help to have the right part at the right time and cut down the time waiting for things to cure. Sort the sheet wood and spars into separate stacks for the right and left wing, stabilizers, nacelles, and fuselage. Doing this ahead of time helps to prevent using a piece of wood in the wrong place and then looking for it later when it is called for. To ease construction where parts are to bend, some of the parts need to be preformed. This is easy to do but takes some time. These instructions will tell you when to do this.






Prepare the wing sheeting and spars.
Cut 4 spars from the 1/8"x3/16"x24" (3.2x4.8x610mm) spruce 23-1/8" (587.4mm) long.
Cut 4 spar doublers 7" (177.8mm) long from the 36" (914 mm) long piece of the same material.
Glue a doubler to the top of each spar at one end then taper the last 2" (50.8mm) of the opposite end on the bottom as shown.


Cut the four trailing edge sheets from the 1/16"x2" (1.5x50.8 mm) sheets 24" long. Save the 12" (304.8mm) cut-offs from the ends of these sheets for the center sheeting.
Taper these from 2" (50.8mm) wide at the root to 1-1/2" (38.1mm) wide at the tip.
Taper the back edge of the sheet down to about 1/64" (.4mm) over about 3/8" (9.5 mm). Make 2 top and 2 bottom sheets.


Cut the two leading edge sheets from the 1/16"x3" (1.5x76.2mm) sheets 24" (609.6mm) long. Save the 12" (305mm) cut-offs from the ends for the center sheeting. Taper these from 3" (76.2mm) wide at the root to 1-3/4" (44.5mm) wide at the tip. Cut two holes in each for the motor power wires 1" (25.4mm) forward of the spar and 1/2" (12.7mm) and 5" (127mm) from the root. You can make a neat circle cutter with a piece of 1/2" (12.7mm) brass tube sharpened at the end.


Cover the plan over the right wing panel with wax paper and pin the leading and trailing edge sheets down to the plan in their proper place. Glue the W-12 piece between them at the tip where shown. Place a 1/8" (3.2mm) shim under W-12 and the tip sheeting. Glue the bottom spar to the rear edge of the leading edge sheet and pin down just outside of W-9. Make sure the doublers are towards the center of the wing.


Place ribs W-2 through W-9 down on the spar making sure the ribs are vertical to the sheeting. The W-1 rib is set with the top angled towards the tip slightly using the dihedral gage to set the angle. Glue the ribs only to the trailing edge sheeting and the spar for now.


Fit and glue the top spar in place. Do not glue the spars together at the tip at this time. Fit and glue the W-14 aileron spar to the trailing edge sheeting between W-5 and W-9 and to the rear of ribs W6, 7, 8, and add the 1/8"x1/4" (3.2x6.4mm) trailing edge doublers between ribs W-5 and W-6, next to W-7, and next to W-9.


7. Install the aileron servo mounting plate SM and it's brace SMB on the inboard side of W-6 as shown on the plans. The bottom of this should be flush with the building board.


Starting at W-1 and working out to the tip, pull the leading edge sheeting up against the bottom of the ribs and glue them to the ribs. Thin CA works great for this operation, with the help of some accelerator.


Get the shaped 1/4"x1/2" (6.4x12.7mm) shaped leading edge and glue it in place. The angled edge should be on the bottom against the sheeting and the side should be flush with the nose of the ribs.


Fit and install the 1/8" (3mm) lite ply tip W-11. Taper the rear of W-11 in the hatched area. The front of W-11 should touch the back of the leading edge and W-9 and the trailing edge of this piece should just touch the tip of W-9 at the trailing edge.

Now glue the top spar to the W-11 wing tip. When dry cut the trailing edge sheeting out where the aileron will go in.


Shape the top of the aileron spar until it matches the tops of the ribs.


Glue one of the pre-shaped trailing edge sheets to the ribs and along the trailing edge and to the tip outline. To allow working time here it is best to use SIG-Bond glue to hold the top sheeting to the ribs and spars.

Be sure to pin the sheets down securely while the glue dries.


Taper the other two top leading edge sheeting from 2-3/4" (69.9mm) at the root to 1-1/2" (38.1mm) at the tip.

True up and bevel the front edge of this sheet so it is a perfect match to the rear of the leading edge.


Spread SIG-Bond on the ribs and spar then use thin CA to attach the sheeting to the leading edge at an angle that matches the front of the ribs. Now pull the rear of the sheeting down to the ribs and pin in place until the glue dries. If you have trouble getting the sheet to conform you can give it a spray of water on the outside to help it follow the curve of the ribs.


Trim and add the curved W-12 to the top of the tip between the sheets.



Plank the upper center section of the wings. Prepare the center section sheeting as shown in drawings. Fit the front piece first then cut the rear to fit in the remaining space. A neat trick to get the radius in the corner of the sheets is to trace around a quarter.


Add the 1/16"x3/16" (1.5x4.8mm) cap strips on the top of the remaining ribs.


You can now remove this wing panel from the building board, cut away the sheeting from the aileron area, rough shape the leading edge, trim the excess sheeting from the tip and true up the sheeting at the root rib.


Set this panel aside and build the other panel using steps #1 through #18.


Make the servo wire guide tubes by rolling a 2"x11" (50.8x279.4mm) piece of typing paper tightly around a section of 3/8" (9.5 mm) dowel then insert this dowel and paper into the holes.


When the tube is in position, withdraw the dowel and let the paper unwind in the holes. Tack-glue the tubes in the ribs to keep them from shifting.

Trim the inside end of the tube at an angle to ease the insertion of the servo wires.


NOTE: We highly recommends that you use a speed control for each motor and place each control in the nacelle behind the motor. For this you will need to also cut a hole in the bottom of the tube just inboard of F-3 for the receiver lead of the speed control.


Feed motor wires through the hole in the leading edge sheeting next to W-1, through the front hole in rib W-2 and out the hole just short of rib W-3. Tape the wires together to keep them from slipping out. (refer to photo 23)


The two wing halves are now joined. Place the wing halves upside down on your work surface with their root ribs facing each other. Use lengths of balsa stock to shim the leading and trailing edges of the wing panels, supporting them so that their top wing spars are flat to the work surface. Make sure the root ribs are flush to each other. Cut two pieces of the 1/8"x3/16" (3.2x4.8mm) spruce spar material 5" (127mm) long for the spar joiners. Insert the joiner for the top spar in one side and glue to the spar and the top skin.


Using 30-minute epoxy, spread a thin coat of glue on the root rib of the other wing and on the spar joiner that extends from the first panel. Slide the two halves together and run a strip of masking tape over the seam on the top of the wing to hold it together and to contain any epoxy that tries to seep out. Now lay the wing up side down with the spars flat on the building board and tape the leading edge and trailing edge securely together so the panels line up exactly. Glue in the bottom spar joiner and clean up any excess epoxy with a paper towel and alcohol then set aside to cure.


While waiting for this to cure, prepare the center sheeting for use. Cut the two 1/2" (12.7mm) holes for the servo wires in the front sheets on a centerline 1/2" (12.7mm) back from the leading edge and 1/2" (127 mm) and 5" (127mm) out from the center and glue these sheets onto the bottom center section, behind the leading edge sheeting. (Refer to drawings at step #16)


You can now remove all the tape and finish shaping and sanding the wing.


Glue the 1" (25.4mm) fiberglass tape over the center joint of the wing top and bottom. Medium CA works well for this application. Rub in a second coat of glue and let cure before sanding out any lumps.


To shape the ailerons cut the 1-1/4"x5/16"x24" (31.7x7.9x609.6mm) piece of trailing edge stock into two 10-1/2" (266.7mm) sections. At one end of each piece measure up 7/8" (22.2mm) from the trailing edge and make a mark. Draw a line with a straight edge from this mark to the corner at the thick side at the other end. Cut this triangular piece off and sand smooth. Draw a centerline down the thick edge of the aileron and bevel down to the line from top and bottom. Now fit the aileron to the cutout at the trailing edge of the wing allowing 1/32" (.8mm) gap at each end. Mark each aileron for left and right.