A piece of 1/8"x3/16"x1-1/2" long spruce is provided for servo mounts. Cut it into four 3/8" long pieces.


The servo cutout at the rear of the RXP radio platform is for the rudder servo. Trial fit your rudder servo in the hole to make sure it will fit. Adjust if necessary. Then glue 1/8"x3/16"x3/8" spruce servo mounts along the front and back lip of the opening, on the top side of RXP. When dry, hold the rudder servo in position and mark the location of the mounting holes onto the mounts. Drill pilot holes and then screw the rudder servo to the mounts.


A piece of 3/16"x3/8"x3/4" long balsa stick is provided to make supports for the spruce servo mounts for the elevator servo. Cut balsa stick into two 3/8" long pieces.


Lay your elevator servo in place on the radio platform, with its control arm centered in the slot that is already cut in the platform. Mark the correct locations for the elevator servo mounts on the platform. Glue the spruce servo mounts and the balsa servo mount supports in place on the radio platform. When dry, drill pilot holes and then screw the elevator servo to the mounts.


The pull-pull control lines from the elevator and rudder servos back to the tail surfaces are 6lb. test monofilament fishing line. A 10 foot long piece of monofilament line is provided. Cut it in half into two 5 foot long pieces, one for the elevator and one for the rudder.

NOTE: In all the hours of indoor flying we've done with the Demoiselle and other models, we've never found it necessary to re-adjust the neutral position of the rudder or elevator once they were secured in position. If your rudder servo is perfectly neutral (including the trim lever on your transmitter) and your rudder is perfectly centered when you glue the line to the servo arm, the trim lever on your transmitter will easily cover any flight trimming adjustments that may be needed. If you ever need to replace the pull-pull lines, it's a simple matter to chip the glue off the nylon servo arm, re-drill the hole if needed, and put in new lines. Or simply replace the output arm with a new one.


Install the pull-pull lines to the rudder first. Begin by slipping one of the 1/16" od aluminum swage tubes over one end of the monofilament line. Slide the tube up the line a little, leaving you about 4-5 inches of line to work with. Now stick that short end of the line through the hole in the left rudder control horn, and then loop it back through the aluminum swage tube. Slide the tube up close to, but not touching, the control horn. Use needle nose pliers to crimp the swage tube flat, tight against the lines. Trim off the short end of the line close to the swage tube.

Now take the long end of the monofilament line and poke it up through the outermost hole on the left side of the rudder servo control arm. Take the line across the span of the control arm and down through the outermost hole on the right side of the arm. Then take the line back to the right side rudder control horn. Swage the line to the right side control horn in the same manner you did the left side. Make sure you pull all the slack out of the monofilament line on both sides of the rudder servo before you crimp the swage tube flat.

Once you have your entire radio system hooked up and functional, center your rudder servo output arm in neutral position. Then center the rudder in neutral position by sliding the monofilament line through the servo arm, lengthening one side while you shorten the other side at the same time.
When you have the rudder properly neutralized, secure the pull-pull line by placing a single small drop of glue on the line where it passes through the holes in the servo output arm.


Use the same procedures from Step 71 to install the pull-pull lines for the elevator servo. Note that the lower line must be steered through the fuselage structure. It should be a straight shot from the lower elevator control horn, through the fuselage framework, to the bottom of the elevator servo output arm, without the line rubbing on any of the framework.


Mount your receiver on the radio platform with Velcro®. Run the antenna back through the holes in the FP6 parts at the top of each fuselage former.


74. The battery pack will be carried on the front platform (FP1) of the fuselage bottom. Like the receiver, the battery pack is mounted to the fuselage with Velcro®. However, due to the heavy weight of the battery pack, we’ve found that Velcro® alone is not enough to keep the battery securely in the airplane during all flight attitudes. We also use a rubber band to l ash the battery pack to the fuselage platform. In actuality, the Velcro® keeps the battery pack from shifting in flight, while the rubber band keeps it from leaving the airplane.

To prepare the front FP1 platform for rubber band mounting, glue the 1/64" plywood FP13 parts to each side of the platform, as shown in the photo.

Bend two Battery Hooks from .020" wire, using the full-size pattern on the plan as a guide. Glue the battery hooks in place on the outside of the FP13 parts. Use a No.32 (or similar size) rubber band stretched from one hook to the other, over the battery pack.



Cut the pieces of the paper pilot from the sheet with a sharp #11 hobby knife or scissors. Cut as accurately and close to the image as possible.


Drill a 1/16" dia. hole in the shoulder and hip areas of the arms, legs, and body of the pilot. The locations for the holes are marked by a black dot.


Assemble the arms and legs to the body using the #00-90 x1/8" long brass bolts, hex nuts and washers that are provided.


Cut two 1/2" long pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa. Glue one in the center of each 1/16" laser-cut balsa rudder pedal, at the rear edge. These are mounts that the pilot’s feet will be secured to. If you want to paint your rudder pedals, do it now and then let dry.


Glue the rudder pedals in place in the fuselage. Notice on the side view plan that the rudder pedals must be glued in at a slight angle, approximately 30 deg. from horizontal, so they will match the angle of the pilot’s feet.


Cut two 1" long pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa. Glue them in the center of the pilot’s seat, parallel with each other, with a 1/32" gap between them. These are mounts that will hold the pilot’s bottom in position.


Trial fit the pilot in the airplane. While doing so, bend the pilot’s legs outward at the hips to about a 45 deg. angle. A gentle radiused bend is all that’s needed, not a sharp crease. Then bend the legs back inward at the knees so that the feet fit onto the rudder pedals. Bend the arms of the pilot in the same manner - outward at the shoulder, back inward at the elbow.
Once you’re satisfied with the location and posture of the pilot, secure him to the 1/8" sq. balsa mounts with a little glue.


The covering material included in this kit is Litespan, by Solarfilm. It is a strong, tough, heat-shrinkable synthetic covering material. Litespan is very light weight, approximately 32 grams per sq. yard. Litespan is heat shrinkable, however it does not have glue already on it. You must first apply adhesive to the model structure where you want the covering to stick, using a heat activated liquid adhesive such as SIG Stix-It or Solarfilm Balsaloc (not supplied). Surface Preparation: Lightly sand the parts to be covered, removing any bumps and unevenness that would show through the covering. Start with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper on a sanding block, and finish with 220 grit or finer sandpaper. Fill all cracks and hollows with light weight model filler and sand smooth.


Coat the areas where you want the covering to stick with the heat-activated adhesive, following the manufacturer’s instructions. On both wing panels, apply adhesive to the leading and trailing edges, the tip and root ribs and to the top surface of each wing rib. Allow the adhesive to dry to the touch.

  • Cutting:
    Refer to the "COVERING DIAGRAM" to see how to make best use of the covering material provided. In the interest of light weight, only the top surface of the wing panels will be covered. Also, only the top surface of the elevator will be covered. Both sides of the rudder will be covered.

  • Pre-Shrinking:
    Litespan is capable of shrinking a great deal. We have tried several methods to control this tendency, including pre-shrinking the material. Doing this tends to take some (not all) of the "shrink" out of the material. This can be desirable when trying to minimize any tendency to warp the part being covered. To do this, first cut the piece to shape (such as one of the wing panels), leaving at least an inch or so of material around all edges. Place the material on a clean, flat heat-resistant surface (dull side up). With your iron set to about 200 deg.F, iron the material smooth, shrinking it in the process. The piece is now ready to apply as described below.

NOTES ON COVERING IRONS: We’ve found that a small "trim iron" (such as the Top Flite Trim Seal Tool) works better than a full-size covering iron when working with the Litespan on light weight model structures like the Demoiselle. In fact, we use a trim iron for the entire covering process, both adhering the Litespan and then shrinking it. The small size of the trim irons’ shoe places heat in a small area, allowing a lot of control. We can also tell you from experience that using a heat gun on Litespan is not a good idea. The heat from a heat gun is difficult to control and can cause uneven shrinking, which in turn causes warps.
  • Adhering:
    Set your covering iron temperature to between 195 deg.F and 210 deg.F. Lay the Litespan on the framework and smooth out the wrinkles. Tack the Litespan in place at a few points around the edges, using the toe of the iron. While tacking, gently pull the Litespan to get a smooth fit without large wrinkles. Do not try to get the Litespan drum tight, just smooth and wrinkle free. Reheating and peeling back while hot allows the Litespan to be repositioned. Then, seal the Litespan all around the edges of the wing with the iron. Trim surplus Litespan from around the edges with a sharp blade and reseal the edges if necessary.

  • Shrinking:
    Increase the iron temperature to between 250 deg.F and 285 deg.F. Shrink the Litespan by slowly sliding the iron across the surface of the Litespan - just lightly touching the surface. Be very careful not to over-shrink the Litespan because it will warp the light weight structure of the Demoiselle. Do not try to shrink out every last little wrinkle. Just get rid of the largest ones. Remember; the full-scale Demoiselle also had wrinkles in the covering.



The Hardwood Motor Mount on the front of the Demoiselle is designed to fit inside the 3/16"x5/16" opening in the back of the plastic gear box of the GWS DX-B electric motor. Trial fit the GWS motor onto the Hardwood Motor Mount. It should be a snug fit. If it is too tight, sand the motor mount down slightly. If it seems too loose, you can shim around the motor mount with paper, cardboard, or thin plywood scrap.


83. A #1 x3/8" sheet metal screw is provided to hold the GWS electric motor to the hardwood motor mount for flight. The screw will go in from the front of the motor and be accessible through one of the round openings in the motor’s front gear. Start by drilling a .078" (5/64" or #47) dia. clearance hole for the screw through the front wall of the motor’s plastic gear box. Locate the hole so it will be within the 3/16"x5/16" opening in the back (thus hitting the hardwood motor mount) and so it is accessible through one of the openings in the front gear - study photo thoroughly. After you’ve got that hole drilled, slide the motor back on the hardwood motor mount and drill a 1/32" dia. pilot hole into the hardwood mount for the screw. Thread the screw in snugly so that the front gear will clear it when the motor is turning.


The scale-like dummy 2-cylinder engine provided with your kit adds a nice look to the finished airplane. The engine is molded from .010 thick plastic, in two halves. Making the engine is not difficult, provided attention is paid to these instructions. Our finished, fully detailed and painted dummy engines typically weigh just 3 grams!

Use a sharp pair of scissors to trim the excess flat plastic to within about 1/16" of the perimeter of both molded engine halves.


Note that the engine is molded with a "front" and "rear" face. The front is flat, while the rear has a beveled shape. Use a small scissors or a sharp hobby knife to remove the front face of both motor halves, leaving about 1/16" around the edges.


From the kit contents, locate the laser-cut 1/32" plywood DEM part. Center the DEM part carefully into the inside front face of one of the molded engine halves, with its half-round motor cut-out facing up. Use thin CA to glue it in place.


Place the remaining engine half in place over the DEM former, aligning it carefully with its mate. Hold one of the cylinder heads together, visually aligning the halves and use a drop of thin CA on the seam to hold it in position (in the case of thin CA and plastic, less is always better). Move over to the opposing cylinder head, again aligning the two halves, and glue the halves together at the head with a drop of glue. Work around the seam perimeter, using a drop of glue about every 1/2" or so, until the halves are fully joined.


The excess glued seam is now carefully sanded. Use 220 grit sandpaper and do not attempt to eliminate the seam, but rather work to make it as uniform as possible. When the engine is painted flat black, the seam lines become very muted and blend in nicely.


In order to fit over the GWS motor and the fuselage motor mount, the dummy engine must have a 3/4" wide slot cut out from the top of its rear, rounded face, down and forward to the DEM ply mount.

This is quickly done by first marking the approximate cutting lines onto the engine with a fine-line marker and using small scissors to remove the material.

Note that when this material is removed, the engine assembly gets a little easier to bend, so handle it carefully.


90. The assembled engine is now sprayed or brushed with flat black paint. Allow the paint to dry before continuing.


If your GWS motor is installed on the fuselage, remove the #1 x3/8" retaining screw and remove the motor. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the gear shaft split ring and washer from the back of the motor assembly. Pull the gear shaft and gear out of the plastic housing. Set aside these parts for re-assembly later.


With a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the four screws from the front of the motor’s plastic gear box. Also remove the two smaller screws that hold the motor to the front of the plastic gear box. Then seperate the front of the plastic gear box from the rest of the motor unit.

Place the front of the plastic gear box onto the front face of the plywood DEM mount at the front of the dummy motor - it will slip in place and bottom out against the face of the DEM mount. From the inside of the dummy motor, apply a single drop of thin CA to the four corner joints between the plastic part and DEM. This holds the plastic part firmly in place and at the same allows it to be easily broken loose and removed, if ever needed.


Re-assemble rear plastic housing and motor assembly back into the front plastic piece, from the inside of the dummy motor. Just slide the assembly in place and use the same screws to re-attach the assembly and motor. Then slide the gear shaft and gear (from Step 91) back into the motor cage, from the front. With the shaft back in place, re-install the washer and split ring retainer at the rear. Yes, we know this can be a little tedious but with patience and a good pair of needle nose pliers, it isn’t that difficult.


The engine assembly is now basically complete, with the geared GWS electric motor and dummy engine cylinders installed.
For some modelers, this may be enough and they may want to move on. However, there are always those who want a little more "eye candy" and will want to fully detail the engines. For these folks, we’ll share the further detailing that we did to our dummy engines.

As mentioned earlier in the Paint section of this manual, we used a selection of flat Testor’s Model Master plastic model paints - both spray can and brushable types - for painting and detailing our engines. The plastic case and cylinders were sprayed with Flat Black. The heads were brushed with Burnt Metal Buffing Metalizer and we also used this same color for the exhaust pipes, after first sanding them round and hardening their surface with thin CA glue. Thin or medium CA glue was used to attach the finished exhaust pipes to the cylinders, in the molded recesses provided. We made four pushrod lifters from scrap 1/64" plywood and painted them with Brass Buffing Metalizer. The pushrods were cut from K&S 1/32" aluminum tubing and painted with the same Brass Buffing Metalizer paint.

The "sparkplugs" were made from K&S 1/32" aluminum tubing. For ease of handling, start with a 2" or so length and lightly sand the surface. Spray (or brush) the tubing with Flat White or Flat White Primer and allow to dry. Cut two 1/4" lengths of the painted tubing for the sparkplug bodies. Cut two 3/8" lengths of .031 music wire. Insert one of the music wire pieces into each sparkplug body, leaving 1/8" of wire exposed and glue the wire into the body with a drop of thin CA glue. Use medium CA glue to install the two "plugs" into pre-drilled holes in the top of each cylinder head - behind the lifters. The two sparkplug wires are made from thin black or gray R/C hook-up or antenna wire. Use pliers to first pull the wire out of the plastic insulation - you’ll need two 4" lengths.


One end of a piece of insulation tubing is placed over the wire tip of each sparkplug (warming the tubing with a little heat relaxes it enough to do this). The other end of the tube is inserted into a dummy "coil" body (a painted length of scrap balsa dowel from the wing stock), glued to the upper rear face of the engine case. Done neatly, the overall effect can be very convincing!

GWS propellers are excellent products but they are molded in bright orange plastic! To make ours more realistic, we painted them. First, balance the prop with a prop balancer. If needed, sand the back side of the heavier blade to bring the prop into balance. Lightly sand the entire prop with worn out 220 grit sandpaper and wipe it down with alcohol to clean the surface.
For our props, we used Model Master spray paints -either Light Earth or Sand Beige will create a nice wood look.

The fuel tank on the full-scale Demoiselle is a prominent detail that lends interest to the look of the model. The tank is easy and quick to make, quite light, and when painted and mounted in place, adds a nice touch.

Find a piece of hard metal or plastic tubing that is about 3/4" in diameter (we used a length of K&S brass tubing). The tubing is used as a "form" to make the tank body. Use a piece of light 1/32" balsa sheet, cut to the tank body length of 2-3/8". Roll the sheet around the tube form and secure it tightly with a piece of tape. With a straightedge and razor knife, cut the balsa along the length of the tubing, creating a single piece. Remove the excess balsa and slip a 3" or so length of waxed paper between the balsa sheet and the tube, beneath the seam. Hold the seam together and use thin CA to glue the seam together. Slip the balsa tube off of the form and remove the waxed paper from inside of the balsa tank

Use a couple of pieces of scrap soft balsa block for the front and rear pointed tank "caps". These be either carved or sanded to shape. We used a short length of 3/16" dia. dowel lightly glued into the center of each block at 90 deg. to turn them to shape. Chuck the dowel into a variable speed electric drill and use it as a "lathe" to turn the blocks to shape with a sanding block and 80 grit sandpaper to take the wood down quickly, followed by 220 grit to smooth piece.

The shaped "caps" are then glued in place to each end of the tank body and the finished assembly is lightly sanded.
As shown on the plans, the two tank supports are cut from the bamboo stock provided in the kit and glued into the tank with CA. At this point we painted our gas tanks with a light gray acrylic paint. We liked the idea of having a gas cap for the fuel tank. We made ours from a scrap piece of the balsa dowel stock used for the wings and painted it red. The cap is glued onto the top of the painted tank. As shown on the plans, the finished tank is installed into the top of the fuselage 3/16" square longeron, just behind the engine. The "8.5 l Petrol" decal is cut and attached to the side of the finished tank. Total weight of our finished, painted, and mounted tank was 1 gram.



Installing scale-like "rigging wires" in your Demoiselle is well worth the small effort and really makes the airplane come alive. This non-functional rigging serves only one purpose, and that is to add interest to the finished model. The process is easier than you may think.

For reference, we’ve included a 3-view "Rigging Diagram" of the Demoiselle on the back cover. This drawing shows and identifies the rigging locations we put on our factory-built Demoiselle models. The "rigging wires" are actually black elastic thread, and an 8 yard long piece is included in this kit to make all of the rigging you see in the diagram. You will also need the remaining 1/4" long aluminum swage tubes. A good pair of small needle nose pliers, a sharp #11 blade and some thin CA glue will also be needed. A little information about the provided elastic thread and how to use it will be helpful. Because it’s difficult to convey "how much" to stretch this thread during the rigging process, we’ll tell you that we use a 2:1 ratio. This means that to get adequate tension on all rigging lines, stretch them to approximately twice their relaxed length. For example, a relaxed 12" length of thread is stretched to about 24", providing the right tension. With this in mind, the 8 yards of rigging thread included in the kit is really 16 yards in actual use - more than enough to complete the model. Finally, the fake flight control lines - used on the actual full-scale Demoiselle and attached to the tips of the horizontal and vertical stabilizers - place no real loads at all on the rudder and elevator servos, when using the recommended 2:1 rate of stretch.


Use the provided .020" dia. wire to make the two required #2 Rigging Hooks (pattern shown at the bottom of the plan). These two hooks are then glued in place on the bottom of each side of the fuselage longerons, at the cross-brace behind the seat. Use medium or thick CA glue and set with accelerator.


Referring to the Rigging Diagram, the first set of rigging lines to install are the two outboard lines on each wing panel, at the E and F locations. To allow the wing panels to be removable, each end of these rigging lines will be made with swaged loop connections that attach to the corresponding wire hooks on the fuselage and landing gear.

The covering over the aluminum tube rigging points (E, F, G, and H on the Rigging Diagram) needs to be pierced to allow the rigging lines to pass easily through them. The absolute easiest and neatest way to do this is with a sharpened metal point, such as a thin nail or an awl. Use a lighter or torch to heat the metal point and press it through the covering, into the aluminum tube. This makes a neat, perfectly round hole that is sealed around its edges. Open all four tubing holes on both wing panels.


Cut four 18" lengths of elastic thread (2 lines for each wing panel). When cutting the elastic thread, avoid fraying by using a sharp razor blade or scissors.


Using a short (6" or so) length of scrap monofilament line, hold the two ends closely together and insert them both into one end of a 1/4" aluminum swage tube. Push the two ends through the tube, leaving a small loop of monofilament line sticking out of the tube.

Insert about 1" of elastic thread through the monofilament loop and back against itself. Hold the elastic thread loop tightly with your fingers. Pull the monofilament loop through the aluminum swage tube, along with the elastic thread loop until about 1/4" (relaxed, not stretched) of looped thread is showing from the end of the tube.

Remove the monofilament line and use small needle nose pliers to crush the middle of the swage tube, locking the thread loop in place. Trim the short excess thread on the other side of the tube with a scissors or a sharp knife.

Repeat this process with the remaining three 18" rigging lines. When done you should have four 17" (approximate) rigging lines with one end of each fitted with a loop and swage fitting.


99. The unfitted end of each rigging line is now inserted and pulled through the E and F rigging tube locations in each wing panel (from the top or bottom of the panel, it makes no difference). This is easy to do by using the same scrap piece of monofilament line to pull the thread through the tubes, as shown above. The unprepared end of each line is now fitted with a swage and loop using the same method shown above. When complete, both wing panels will have their outboard rigging lines in place, ready to attach to the fuselage.


The remaining four inboard wing panel rigging lines - at the G and H locations - are now prepared and installed in the same manner. Cut four 13" lengths of elastic thread for these lines. Prepare one end of each line with a swaged loop, again leaving a 1/4" loop of thread exposed at the end of each aluminum tube.Thread the unprepared end of each line through the wing panel rigging tubes at the G and H locations. Make a loop and swage fitting for each of the four remaining ends of the inboard rigging lines. The removable elastic rigging lines for the wing panels are now installed and ready to use.


As shown on the Rigging Diagram and the various photos, the basic fuselage rigging is installed from station B, back through stations C and D, to the holes in FP9, in front of the 3/16" sq. balsa tailpost. To make this easy, rigging holes have been laser-cut into the bottom FP8 and top FP6 ply gussets. Note that the holes in the top FP6 gussets have been made a little larger to accept both the rigging lines and the receiver antenna. Cut a single 20" length of elastic thread and tie a double knot as close as possible to one end. At the other end, apply a single drop of thin CA glue to the tip of the thread and harden it with accelerator. Use a razor blade to cut the hardened thread at a sharp angle, leaving a "point". The pointed end of the thread will be used as a needle to route the rigging line through the various rigging point locations.


Begin by inserting the pointed end of the thread through the front face of one of the bottom FP8 gussets at Station B. Pull the thread through the hole until the double knot blocks its progress. Thread the pointed end of the line through the hole in the top FP6 gusset at Station C. Moving down to the FP8 gusset at Station D, thread the line through the hole. Finally, thread the line through the top hole in the FP9 part. At this point, stop and take the slack out of the thread between the four rigged stations.

Working forward from the upper rear FP9 hole location, thread the line through the back face of the FP8 gusset at Station D, up to the Station C gusset and back down and through the FP8 gusset on the opposite side of Station B. At this point the thread will be stretched. Use your fingers to equalize the thread tension at each rigging point on both sides of the fuselage. Secure the pointed end of the thread by stretching it enough to tie another double knot to keep it from passing through the FP8 gusset. Because this rigging is permanent, apply a single small drop of thin CA to both of the double knots to secure them and trim the excess thread from the last double knot.


To complete the basic fuselage rigging, cut another 20" length of elastic thread. Apply a single drop of thin CA glue to each end of the thread and use accelerator to set the glue. With a razor blade, cut each end at a sharp angle, creating a hardened "point". Thread one end of the line through the lower hole in FP9 at the rear tailpost. Working on one side of the fuselage, thread one end of the line through the top FP6 gusset at station D, down through the FP8 gusset at station C. Finally, insert the end of the line through the hole in the FP6 gusset at station B. Pull enough thread through the gusset to tape it temporarily to the 1/8th sq. balsa upright. Use your fingers to take the slack out of the line at all of the stations. Use the same procedure above to now thread the line through the station gussets on the opposite fuselage side. After threading the line through the FP6 gusset at station B, hold both ends of the line with your fingers.

Pull the line ends, stretching the thread. Adjust the tension of the lines more or less equally on both sides of the fuselage. Pull the two ends of the line down and against the front face of the FP6 gusset and use CA glue and accelerator to glue them to the gusset. Trim the excess line with a sharp razor blade.



The actual full-scale control system on the Demoiselle was visually very interesting and well worth simulating on the model. During construction of the vertical and horizontal stabilizers, you installed four small, plywood CHN parts at the tips of the fin and stabilizer. These are the flight surface connection points for the nonfunctional control cables.


Start with the "rudder" control lines. In the top view of the Rigging Diagram, these two lines are shown at the left and right tips of the horizontal stabilizer. As shown, these lines route forward to the inside surfaces of the 1/8" sq. balsa uprights at station C, one on each side. At this point, they are positioned about 3" above the bottom of the fuselage at station C. From station C, the lines route downward to the two short bamboo rigging posts on the bottom of the fuselage, beneath the seat back. The lines pass through the holes at the tips of each rigging post and are finally attached to the bottom rear surfaces of the left and right foot pedals.

The line connections made to the CHN points at the tips of the horizontal stabilizer are made first. These are swaged loop types, similar to those made for the wing rigging. The difference is that the loop must first pass through the CHN parts before it goes back through the aluminum swage tube. It is then adjusted to length and crimped. Cut two 20" lengths of elastic thread for these lines. Apply a drop of thin CA glue to one end of each line and use accelerator to harden it. Use a razor blade to cut the hardened ends to form a sharp point. These prepared ends will be used to thread the lines forward.


Install a aluminum swage tube onto one end of one of the 20" rigging lines, as before. However, this time, continue pulling the short end of the line all the way through the swage tube.

Insert the short end of the elastic thread through the hole in the plywood CHN part.

Insert both ends of a short piece of monofilament line into and through the aluminum swage tube, leaving a small loop.

Put the short end of the elastic line into and through the loop of monofilament line and pull the monofilament line loop back through the aluminum swage tube, taking the elastic line end with it.

Slide the aluminum swage tube up to the CHN part, leaving a loop of elastic thread about 1/4" in length.

Use small needle nose pliers to crimp the swage tube flat at its center, locking the loop. Trim the excess thread with scissors or a razor blade.

The now-attached rigging line is routed forward - as described above - and glued to the bottom rear of the appropriate rudder pedal at the front. Attach the remaining rudder control line using the same procedure.


The dummy "elevator" control lines are now made and installed. Cut a single 30" length of elastic thread. Use a short piece of monofilament line to pull the thread through the small hole in the bottom of the pilot’s "control stick". As shown in the rigging diagram, route one end of the line back through the fuselage, up to the hole in the top of the rear mast.


Pull the line through the hole and attach it to the CHN part at the top of the vertical fin, using the swage and loop procedure described for the rudder fittings.

The other end of the elevator control line routes back from the control stick to the bottom cross brace at station B, back to the FP14 disk on the tailskid and finally to the CHN part at the bottom tip of the vertical fin. Here it is attached to the CHN part using a loop and swage connection, as used for the top fitting.

The Demoiselle utilizes a full-flying tail group that moves as a single unit, controlling pitch and yaw. This unique flying surface arrangement provides smooth, sure control of the model in flight. Because the Demoiselle flies at such relatively low speeds, flight surface movements need to be large enough to actually do the job while providing smooth, proportional control. The control surface movements to the right are based on our many hours of flying time with our Demoiselle models.

1-7/8" Right1-7/8" Left
1-1/2" Up1-1/4" Down

As shown on the plans, your Demoiselle should balance between 4-1/4" (37%) and 4-9/16" (40%) back from the leading edge of the wing.

Don’t forget, your battery pack must be in place on its tray between the pilot’s feet when balancing the model. Measure back from the front of the leading edge of the inboard wing panel and mark the C.G. range onto the fuselage top longeron with a soft pencil. Use a piece of string, tied on within the C.G. range, to lift the model in the air. Shift the string forward or backward as needed until the model suspends with the fuselage top longeron perfectly level.

NOTE: All three of our prototype models balanced satisfactorily with the battery pack at the front edge of the battery tray. If your model appears to be a little nose heavy with the battery pack in that location, shift the battery further aft on the tray to adjust. Although the battery tray does not allow a lot of room for movement, the heavy weight of the battery pack will make a noticeable shift in C.G. location.


Whether or not the Demoiselle is your first indoor R/C model, we strongly suggest that you pay close attention to the following information! If you have access to an indoor basketball court or a gym space of about the same size, you can quickly get the takeoff and landing procedures understood with little problem. If you don’t have this kind of indoor space available, find a large paved surface outdoors, and remember, you cannot fly this airplane in any kind of wind! In all of the following instructions, remember that altitude is best controlled with the throttle. As you gain experience flying the Demoiselle, you will do this automatically. Finally, always remember that the rudder control is on the right stick in this 3 channel setup. Trying to correct rudder with the left stick will do nothing! This might seem a little obvious but if you are normally a 4-channel pilot, it can be a very real issue.

Taking off the Demoiselle could not be easier. Simply throttle up smoothly (do not "punch it"), correcting the take-off run with a little rudder, if needed, and it will lift off by itself in a very short distance. Typical take-off runs for the Demoiselle are about 6’ - 10’. As soon as the airplane lifts off, smoothly throttle back the motor, WITHOUT TURNING IT OFF, allowing the airplane to lightly settle back down to the "runway" for a landing under power. All of this should be done in a straight line. Repeat this exercise enough times to become familiar with the way the airplane responds to throttle and your small control inputs. If you learn nothing else, learn this; the Demoiselle will not continue flying with the motor off. With the motor off, it will almost immediately stop flying and drop to the ground.

This characteristic is shared with the fullscale Demoiselle, as well as most early pioneer full-scale aircraft.


Once you’ve mastered the take-off and landing techniques, you’re ready to fly the airplane. Take-off and use the throttle to establish a "cruise" altitude of about 6’ to 8’ in the air. Make the turns smooth, keeping the nose level or slightly down to avoid stalling and to maintain forward speed. This turning technique is very useful throughout the Demoiselle’s flight envelope. After making just a few turns, you’ll realize that the control authority, provided by the full-flying tail group, is remarkably smooth and sure, without being "twitchy". If flying indoors and the ceiling height permits, take the airplane up higher, using throttle to seek and then hold any given altitude. This is a good exercise in learning how to fly this model. It won’t be long before you’re perfectly comfortable with this very nice flying scale model. Make a few low, slow passes and listen to your flying buddy’s comments!

When you’re ready to land, remember the landing technique that you practiced earlier - you must land under power! Set up for a landing by lowering the throttle setting just enough to let the airplane begin descending on its own. Line-up the final approach to take advantage of the longest part of your "runway", keeping the airplane straight while it settles to the ground under low power. Use elevator input only sparingly to avoid killing off too much forward speed and to flare very slightly immediately before touchdown. Turn the motor off, allowing the model to stop. On the smooth wooden floors of indoor gyms and basketball courts we’ve learned to "taxi" our Demoiselle back to the flight station using coordinated rudder and throttle inputs - something Alberto Santos-Dumont could likely never do!

As you gain air time and experience, you’ll be able to perform wing-overs, touch and go landings, and of course, those lovely low, slow fly-bys. We’ve tried to loop the Demoiselle many times but its relatively low speed, high-lift airfoil, and lack of mass tend to combine, making a loop nothing more than a powered stall. Hey, Alberto didn’t loop the thing either! Finally, make it a habit to check over the airframe of your Demoiselle after each flight. Check for any loose joints, etc. Bringing a little CA glue to your flying sessions is highly recommended for the first few outings.

We sincerely hope that building and flying your Demoiselle has been a rewarding and interesting experience. We also hope that you now have a little better appreciation for the very real contributions that true early aviation pioneers, such as Alberto Santos-Dumont, made in furthering man’s dream of flight! Want to learn more? During our research of the Demoiselle and the other SIG Pioneers Of Flight models, we had a lot of fun reading related books for scraps of information and to find the occasional grainy black and white photograph of our subjects. One of these books proved to be extremely interesting and helpful. This was "CONTACT! The Story of the Early Birds", by Henry Serrano Villard, published by Bonanza Books, New York. Unfortunately this book is no longer in print. We found our copy for sale on e-bay, on the internet. If you love early aviation and want a good "read", complete with some great photographs, try to find a copy of your own!

Good luck and safe flying!

Warning! This is not a toy!
Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys! Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to ground test the finished model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a safe manner. The first test flights should only be made by an experienced R/C flyer, familiar with high performance R/C aircraft.
The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, commonly called the AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe operation of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not necessarily mandatory, it is required by most R/C flying clubs in the U.S. and provides you with important liability insurance in case your R/C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. For more information, contact:
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Muncie, IN 47302
Telephone: (765) 287-1256



Customer Service

SIG MFG. CO., INC. is totally committed to your success in both assembling and flying the 1909 DEMOISELLE kit. Should you encounter any problem building this kit or discover any missing or damaged parts, please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.

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SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

LIMIT OF LIABILITY: The craftsmanship, attention to detail and actions of the builder/flyer of this model airplane kit will ultimately determine the airworthiness, flight performance and safety of the finished model. SIG MFG. CO's obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.