The first man-carrying aeroplane flight in Europe was by Santos-Dumont in 1906

Credited with making the first recorded flight of a heavier-than-air machine in Europe in 1906, Alberto Santos-Dumont became one of the earliest aviation pioneers.

The aeroplane he flew, the 14-bis (also known as the "Bird of Prey" to some) was a canard configuration of his own design powered by a 50hp Antoinette dirigible engine. The flight went a distance of 50 meters in a straight line.
Hardly a performance that rivaled the Wright Brothers contemporary efforts, the flight none-the-less stirred a true awakening of aviation interest and development in France and much of Europe.


Well-educated, Santos-Dumont possessed a scientific mind and was wealthy enough to pursue his dreams of powered flight. He realized early on that if he could design and build a machine that was light enough to take advantage of the minimal power offered by engines of the day, he might be able to achieve greater success with true controlled flight.

Late in 1907, he completed and flew the world’s first true "ultra" light airplane. It had a 16-1/2 foot wingspan and was powered by a 20hp Dutheil-Chalmers motor, swinging a huge wooden propeller. The airplane was constructed almost entirely of bamboo and was of an unusual configuration. The pilot sat at the front of its open triangular fuselage, less than one foot off the ground.

It was an incredibly frail airplane but this very lightness and lack of mass were likely contributing reasons to the fact that no pilot ever met with a fatal accident while flying it, or its future versions. Named the "Demoiselle" (French for "little lady"), the design continued to be improved and built in reasonable numbers, powered by a variety of powerplants, up to and including a V-8 Antoinette engine, nestled between the pilot’s legs, turning an eight foot chain to drive the prop!

Now, there is a true leap of faith!

The diminutive Demoiselle weighed
only 315 lbs.- approximately half
the weight of the Wright Brothers
1903 Flyer!

The SIG Demoiselle represents a reasonable semi-scale rendition of Santos-Dumont’s Model 20 version of the Demoiselle. Of special interest is the fully articulated tail group that controls pitch and yaw in exactly the same manner as the full-scale version. This simple universal joint is easy to make and allows full control movement of the tail group for amazingly smooth and positive control. We’ve comfortably flown the Demoiselle in spaces as small as one half of a typical basketball court, with full control authority. We’ve found that altitude is easily controlled with throttle, saving elevator input primarily for turns, landings, and take-offs.
Using the radio equipment, battery pack, GWS motor, and propeller recommended in these instructions, you'll find the flight speed of this airplane to be incredibly slow and scale-like! Our prototypes have flown hundreds of flights, (both indoors and outdoors), and continue to fly very well to this day. They never fail to draw "oohs" and "aahs" from on-lookers.

The Demoiselle can be flown outdoors but only in very light to no-wind conditions. Its light weight and low wing loading do not lend themselves to windy conditions. In fairness, Santos-Dumont had precisely the same issues to deal with in his full-size counterparts.

Building your own SIG Demoiselle has been made much easier with the supplied laser-cut parts. The included profile "pilot" has been used in all of our Demoiselle models, lending a great look to this otherwise austere scale model. Detailing your Demoiselle is covered in these instructions and primarily consists of adding the non-functional rigging wires, a little paint and assembling and mounting the molded plastic 2-cylinder engine. If you’re anything like us, you’ll find that the more details you add to your Demoiselle, the more you want to do! Between flying sessions, you may enjoy displaying this intriguing and unusual airplane in your workshop, den, or office - it never fails to fascinate!

This kit is not intended for beginning modelers. However, most intermediate modelers with average building skills will find this kit easy to build and fly. These instructions assume that you are aware of the importance of using the correct type and amount of glue, how to make proper wood joints, and how to fly R/C models.

Motors And Propellers

We’ve chosen the well-proven GWS "R/C Indoor Power System" motors and gear drives to power the SIG Demoiselle (note that Maxx Products also markets these exact same power units under their "MPI" name). These motor and gear drive systems are very easy to use, widely available, very inexpensive, and are of good quality. These systems are currently available in eight different gear ratios, capable of swinging propellers from 6" diameter all the way up to 12" diameter. GWS also produces a good selection of propellers to fit all of their gear drive systems. During the development of the Demoiselle, we experimented with different gear ratios and propellers.


We found that a very good combination for this airplane was the GWS "DX-B" system (same as Maxx Products "EPU-7"), which has a 7:1 gear ratio, along with the GWS 10"x5" propeller. With a 7-cell 350mAh Ni-Cad battery pack (Sanyo P/N N-350AAC), this combination has provided good power margins, scale-like speeds along with very good flight duration.

Radio Equipment, Speed Controller, Batttery Pack, And Connectors

One of the very reasons that indoor models such as the Demoiselle are now possible is the fairly recent availability of good quality, reasonably priced light-weight micro receivers, servos, and speed controllers (ESC’s). Up to this time, such equipment was only available from small, highly specialized sources at relatively high prices.

Here are the airborne system components we’ve used in the Demoiselle.
Maxx Products (MPI) #MX-6800 Pico 4-Ch Micro Receiver, with crystal8 grams
Maxx Products (MPI) #MX-30 Pico Servos7 grams each
Maxx Products (MPI) #MX-9104 Micro ESC (Electronic Speed Controller)1 gram
7-cell 350mAh Ni-Cd (nicad) Battery Pack95 grams
7-cell 500 mAh NiMH (nickel metal hydride) Battery Pack96 grams

These are the components that are shown in this manual and on the plans. We did not use an On/Off switch in this airplane because of weight considerations. The battery is simply plugged and unplugged from the ESC before and after each flight. Different brands of receivers, servos, and ESC’s may be usable with this design, provided they are of similar, or lighter, weight and size. For obvious reasons, standard radio components cannot be used with the Demoiselle

A 7-cell battery pack is used in the Demoiselle for two very good reasons. The first has to do with the C.G. realities. With virtually no nose moment, the Demoiselle needs a substantial battery pack to get the airplane to balance and the 7-cell pack does just that. The second reason is flight duration. With throttle management, the 7-cell 350mAh Ni-Cad battery pack keeps our Demoiselles flying for anywhere from 8 to 12 minutes. We’ve also used 7-cell 500 mAh NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) battery packs with good results. In general, the difference between this type of cell and the 350 mAh NiCad cell is that the NiMH pack seems to deliver a little less power with some incremental increase in duration. Both types of cells weigh the same, so they are both usable. Last, the battery pack should be configured in the "hump" shape - four cells on the bottom, three cells on top. This layout offers the most mass in the least amount of space and this is very helpful when making small changes in the C.G. location, if needed.

For maximum flight performance, indoor R/C models require attention to the weight of everything they must carry aloft, including connectors. We used and like the small 2-prong Dean’s connectors for connecting the battery pack to the ESC. Recently, Cloud 9 Micro R/C announced the availability of their new micro connectors. We’ve seen and used these and can recommend them for use with the Demoiselle. There are many other connectors available on the market. Be sure to choose your connectors with weight, size, and efficiency considerations in mind.

Last, our radio systems include excellent transmitters, providing us with features such as servo throw adjustments (EPA), servo reversing, servo sub-trim adjustments, etc. Our trusty Airtronics® RD-6000 Sport transmitters and the equivalent HiTec™ units have taken care of all these needs.

Required Tools

For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and materials available.
  • A selection of glues: SIG Thin CA, SIG Medium or Thick CA, SIG Thin CA Applicator Tips, SIG Kwik-Shot CA Accelerator and a Heat-Activated Covering Adhesive, such as SIG Stix-It or Solarfilm Balsaloc.


  • A selection of hand tools, such as: Regular size and miniature screwdrivers, Regular size and miniature pliers (flat nose, needle nose, round nose), Tweezers and/or small hemostats and a Hobby knife with sharp #11 blades
  • Sandpaper - assorted grits
  • Modeler’s "T" pins
  • Power drill and hand "pin vise" (for small diameter drill bits) Assorted drill bits, including: .031" (1/32" or # 68), .046" (3/64" or # 56), .063" (1/16" or # 52), .078" (5/64" or # 47), .093" (3/32" or # 42) and .109" (7/64" or # 35)


We used very little paint on our Demoiselle models. Only the most conspicuous details - dummy engine, wheels, seat back, and the optional gas tank - were painted on our models. This turns out to be just about right in making the model look the way it should. Avoid using too much paint. Keep the overall look simple, like the real airplane. We used two basic paint types for our Demoiselle models - Testors Model Master™ plastic model paint and waterbased acrylic craft paints.

The dummy engine and optional dummy gas tank were painted with Testors Model Master™ paints, using the spray can products whenever possible. The engine was sprayed Flat Black. The exhaust pipes were painted with Exhaust Buffing Metalizer and the lifters and pushrods were painted with Brass Buffing Metalizer. The sparkplug bodies were painted with Flat White or White Primer and the dummy gas tank was painted with Navy Aggressor Gray, to simulate metal.

The wheels, seat back, and rudder pedals were painted with water-based acrylic craft paints. These very inexpensive paints are sold in the craft departments of stores such as Wal-Mart, K-Mart, and similar outlets. They seem to be manufactured under many different brand names, such as Delta Ceramcoat™ and Apple Barrel Colors™. They are available in a huge variety of colors. We found that thinning these paints with equal amounts of water produced nice results, when either brushed or sprayed, with no appreciable weight build-up. Clean-up is also easy, using just warm water. We painted the seat back with a light brown color to create a nice contrast to the balsawood. The wheels can be painted with a light gray, simulating a metal effect or a light brown color to create the look of wood. We used a darker gray to paint the rudder pedals. Remember to paint these details before installing them into the airframe.

Balsa Sticks
11/16"x1/4"x24" W1 Rib Stiffeners 121/8"x1/8"x36" Fuselage, Elevator, Rudder, LGS Struts, Wing Tip Braces 13/16"x3/16"x36" Fuselage Top Longeron, Universal Joint Supports 13/16"x3/8"x3/4" Servo Mount Supports
11/4"x1/4"x2" L.G. Strut Anchor Blocks 41/4" dia. x 36" Balsa Dowels; for Wing L.E., Wing T.E., Wing Cuff L.E., L.G. Spreader Bar
Laser-Cut Balsa
11/32" thick Sheet #1: WSP, Seat Back 11/16" thick Sheet #2: FP1, FP2, FP11, WHL, RXP, Rudder Pedals 11/8" thick Sheet #3: FP3, FP4, FP5, FP7, FP12, FP15, W1 11/8" thick Sheet #4: W2, WG, WHB, R1, E1
11/4" thick Sheet #5: DBR, Exhaust Pipes
Laser-Cut Plywood
11/64" plywood Sheet #6: FP6, FP8, FP9, FP10, FP13, FP14, FD1, FD2, FD3, FD4, LGS4, CHN, UNV 11/32" plywood Sheet #7: WSF, WHC, WRT, DEM
15/16" basswood Motor Mount, laser-cut 310" Bamboo Sticks; for Front Rigging Mast , Rear Rigging Mast, Tail Skid, Control Stick, Bottom Rigging Posts 11/8"x3/16"x1-1/2" Spruce Stick; for Servo Mounts
Wire Parts
1.020" dia. x 18" Straight Wire; for Rigging Hooks 2.046" dia. x 2-1/2" Straight Wire; for Axles
1#1 x 3/8" Sheet Metal Screw; for motor attachment 2.090 x 1/8" Round Brass Machine Screw; for Pilot 2.090 Brass Hex Nut; for Pilot 4.090 Brass Washers; for Pilot
Miscellaneous Parts
1Molded ABS Plastic Dummy Engine 13/32" od x 1-5/8" Plastic Tube; for Universal Joint 321/16" od x 1/4" Aluminum Tubes; for Wing Rigging Points & Swage Tubes 21/8" od x 1/2" Aluminum Tubes; for Universal Joint
41/4" id x 1" Aluminum Wing Mount Tubes 110 ft. Monofilament Pull-Pull Line 18 yds. Elastic Thread; for rigging wires 12 ft. Dacron Thread
136" Rubber Tubing; for Tires 119-1/2"x72" Covering Material, color: white 13/4"x3" long Velcro® 1Pilot Sheet
1Decal Sheet 1Full-Size Plan 1Assembly Manual



Laser-Cut Parts

When it is time to remove the part from the sheet, use a sharp #11 hobby knife to slice through the small bridges that hold the part in the sheet. Do not try to push the parts out of the sheet without first cutting through the bridges, or you may end up with a lot of broken parts.



Start by constructing the four simple formers that are shown in CROSS-SECTIONS A, B, C, and D of the full-size plan. Build these parts directly over the plan drawings to insure perfect accuracy. Build only the shaded portions of the cross-section drawings, the other parts will be added later.
NOTE: Don't forget to put wax paper or plastic wrap over the plan to keep the parts from sticking.

  • Cross-Section A former consists of two pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa stick, plus parts FP4 and FP7.

  • Cross-Section B former consists of two pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa stick, plus parts FP5 and FP6.

  • Cross-Section C former consists of two pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa stick, plus part FP6.

  • Cross-Section D former consists of three pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa stick, plus part FP6.

Once these formers are dry, they can be removed from the plan.


Cover the Fuselage Bottom Frame drawing with wax paper or plastic wrap for protection. Using 1/8" square balsa sticks plus laser-cut parts FP1, FP2, FP3, FP10, and FP15, construct the fuselage bottom frame directly over the drawing. Leave the bottom frame assembly pinned to the plan for now, even after the glue is dry.

Be sure to cut the longest pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa first, then the shorter pieces, in order to make the most efficient use of the stock 36" long sticks. This is good advice for this step and throughout the entire construction of this airplane.


Next locate the 3/16"x3/16"x36" balsa stick for the Fuselage Top Longeron. Lay it in place on the full-size plan and trim both ends to proper angle and length (save the leftover ends). Also, while you have the Top Longeron in position on the plan, carefully mark on the bottom of the Longeron the exact locations for the four formers and any other parts that will be attached to the Longeron. Be precise! These marks will be critical for accurate assembly of the remaining parts.


Using leftover stock from the previous step, cut to length and proper angle the 3/16" sq. balsa Rudder Post. Glue the rudder post in position on the bottom of the fuselage top longeron, exactly 1/4" from the rear end of the longeron. Then glue 1/64" plywood part FP9 on the front of the rudder post.


Pin, do not glue, the former A in position at the front of the fuselage bottom frame. Also pin the two FP12 laser-cut parts in the corners to hold former A at approximately the correct angle.


Pin the front of the 3/16" sq. fuselage top longeron in position on top of former A.


7. At the rear of the fuselage, pin the rudder post in position on the bottom frame. Note that the rudder post should be glued on 1/4" from the end of the bottom frame (as it was on the top longeron in step 4). The angle of former A should automatically put the rudder post in approximately that location, provided you’ve cut all your sticks accurately. If you find that you need to push or pull the rudder post slightly fore or aft to get it in that location, notice that this will also change the angle of former A slightly. As long as it’s not a significant amount, it should be OK.
When you get everything pinned in correct position, you can glue the rudder post and former A to the bottom frame.


Glue the FP11 parts at the top of former A, one on each side.


Now you can go ahead and glue the other three formers B, C, and D in position in the fuselage. If you’ve done a good accurate job of construction so far, these formers should fit perfectly in their locations. Be sure to glue all three of them in with their FP6 plywood part facing the rear of the airplane.


Next, glue the FP8 plywood gussets in the bottom corners of the formers B, C, and D. Use A tweezers to hold them in position while you apply the glue.


Glue a FP10 plywood part in position on the upper crosspiece of former D.


Cut to length and glue in position the 1/8" sq. balsa Diagonal Brace that runs from the notch in FP12 up to the top of former B. Make and install one for each side of the fuselage.


Cut to length and glue in position a 1/8" sq. balsa Vertical Brace to support the diagonal brace installed in the last step. The top of this vertical brace should be 4-9/16" from the front of former A. The bottom should be 5-1/6" up from FP12. Make and install one of these vertical braces for each side of the fuselage.


Put a mark on both the diagonal brace and the vertical brace exactly 1-1/2" down from the top edge of the main longeron. Do this on both sides of the fuselage. Cut two 4-1/2" long pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa and glue them onto the outside of the braces at the marks. Then glue the balsa RXP radio platform in place on top of the 4-1/2" long pieces.

You can now unpin the entire fuselage assembly from the building board.


To make the Tail Skid, take one of the 10" pieces of bamboo provided and put a pencil mark at 4-3/4" and 5-3/4" from one end. The 1" area between these two marks needs to be bent to form the curved bottom of the tail skid, as shown on the plan.


There are a lot of different ways to bend wood, but for this application we’ve found that the easiest method is simply to do a "controlled break" of the area we want formed. In other words, we simply bend the bamboo slowly until it just starts to break. Start with the tip of your thumb near one end of the 1" marked area. Bend the stick over your thumb until you feel it start to break. Stop, move your thumb about 1/4" or so further along in the area you want formed, and then bend again.

Continue moving along in small increments in the area you want formed, bending it to the point of almost breaking, until you have the shape you want. Don’t worry if a few strands of bamboo start to get loose on the outside of the curve. Once you’ve got the shape you want, thoroughly soak the entire bent area of the bamboo stick with thin CA to re-strengthen it. When dry, sand off any rough spots. Finally, cut off the unwanted end of the bamboo stick at the 5-3/4" mark and sand the end round.

NOTE: Don’t worry if the bend in your tail skid doesn’t match the plan exactly. The tail skids on the full-scale Demoiselles were all a little different too.


Glue plywood part FP14 about 3-1/4" from the top end of the tail skid. Then glue the tail skid in place in the fuselage.


Cut a 4-1/2" long piece of bamboo for the Control Stick. Sand both ends round. Drill a .046" (3/64" or # 56) dia. hole near one end of the stick. This will be the bottom end of the control stick. The hole is for the optional scale rigging wires which will be added later.
Finally, glue the control stick in place in the fuselage as shown on the plan.
Be sure that the hole in the bottom of the control stick faces fore and aft.


Cut two 1" long pieces of bamboo for the Bottom Rigging Posts. Sand one end of each post round. Drill a .046" (3/64" or #56) dia. hole in the rounded end. Glue the bottom rigging posts in place in the fuselage as shown on the plan. Be sure that the hole in the bottom of each post faces fore and aft.


Cut a piece of bamboo 2-3/4" long for the Front Rigging Mast. Sand one end of the mast round. Drill a .031" (1/32" or #68) dia. hole in the rounded end. Next mark the correct location for the front rigging mast on top of the 3/16" sq. balsa fuselage top longeron (see fuselage side view plan). Then glue plywood doubler FD1 on top of the longeron on that mark. Also glue plywood doublers FD2 on each side of the longeron. Drill a 7/64" dia. hole down through the top longeron using the hole in FD1 as a guide. Note that the hole should be drilled at an angle which will put the front rigging mast parallel to the fuselage formers, not perpendicular to the top longeron. Finally, glue the front rigging mast in place, with the hole in its top running span wise.


Cut a piece of bamboo 2-1/8" long for the Rear Rigging Mast. Sand one end of the mast round. Drill a .046" (3/64" or # 56) dia. hole in the rounded end. Mark the correct location for the rear rigging mast on the top of 3/16" sq. balsa fuselage top longeron. Glue plywood doubler FD3 to the longeron on that mark. Glue plywood doublers FD4 in position on each side of the top longeron. Drill a 7/64" dia. hole down through the top longeron using the hole in FD3 as a guide. Drill the hole at an angle so that the rear rigging mast should be parallel to the fuselage formers, not perpendicular to the top longeron. Glue the rear rigging mast in place, with the hole in its top facing fore and aft.


21. The two 1/4" thick laser-cut balsa DBR dihedral braces are identical in size and shape. Glue one DBR in position on the back of former A and the other one on the back of former B. Study the side view plan and the cross-section drawings carefully to be sure that you understand exactly where the dihedral braces should be located. In both cases, the DBR dihedral brace must be installed with its bottom edges perfectly flush with the bottom edges of the FP4 and FP5 pieces that are already built into the respective formers.


With a cloth rag, rub as much of the dark soot off the lasercut edges of the Hardwood Motor Mount as possible. Then glue the motor mount in place on the fuselage.


Laser-cut part FP15 is the back of the pilot's seat. Before it can be glued in place in the fuselage, it needs to be formed into the curved shape you see in the pictures. Try to locate a cylindrical object of about 2" diameter to serve as a form for the seat back (a 4 oz. jar of Sig Supercoat Dope is perfect). Soak FP15 thoroughly with water and secure it to the 2" diameter form with rubber bands or tape. Let dry overnight. When you take it off the form the next day, it will stay curved and can be easily glued in position in the fuselage.

Set the fuselage aside until needed later.



Four 1/4" dia. balsa dowels are provided for making the leading and trailing edges of the wings. Notice that each dowel has a 6-1/8" long slot in one end. Glue a 1/32" plywood WSF wing stiffener in each slot with thin CA. Make sure the edges of the WSF plywood do not protrude outside the diameter of the dowel. When dry, sand very lightly to smooth out any rough spots. Then trial fit the stiffened end of the dowel inside one of the 1/4" id aluminum wing mount tubes. If the dowel is too big, gradually sand it down until it fits properly. You want the wing dowel to fit inside the aluminum tube with a little bit of friction, but not too much.
The idea is to achieve a snug fit that will hold the dowel in place, yet allow the dowel to be easily removed when you want to take the wings off your airplane.

Obviously, you don't want it so loose that the dowel falls out.


Lay each of the four dowels in place on the wing plan, one for each Trailing Edge and one for each Main Leading Edge. Make sure the plywood-reinforced end of the dowels is at the root end of the wing panels. Then mark and cut the dowels to proper length (don’t throw away the leftover balsa dowel, it will be needed for other parts).



Cover your wing plans with wax paper or plastic wrap for protection. Working on one wing panel at a time, pin the trailing edge, main leading edge, and ribs in exact position on the plan.

Double check to see that you have the plywood reinforcements in the root ends of the dowels situated vertically for maximum strength. After these parts are securely pinned in place, glue all the joints with thin CA.

NOTE: It’s best not to push pins through the leading and trailing edges. Instead, straddle these narrow parts with crossed pins pushed into the building board. Look closely at the photos and you’ll see what we mean.


Glue a 1/16"x1/4" balsa cap strip along the inside of the root wing rib. It should be flush with the top edge of the rib.


Glue in the WG balsa wing gussets in the four corners of the wing panel.


Cut to length and glue in position the 1/8" sq. balsa Tip Braces. (See photo above)


Use a 90 deg. triangle to mark the locations of the four 1/16" od x1/4" Aluminum Tube Rigging Points onto the outer faces of the appropriate wing ribs. Glue the rigging points to the ribs at those locations. Be careful not to get any glue inside the tubes.


Unpin the leading edge and wing ribs from the plan. Leave the trailing edge pinned down! Carefully lift the entire leading edge of the wing panel up 3/8" above the building board. Place 3/8" thick pieces of scrap balsa, hardwood, or whatever you can find, underneath the leading edge to hold it up off the board. Pin the leading edge securely to the 3/8" spacers.


Cut a 1/4" dia. balsa dowel to 10-5/8" long for the Cuff Leading Edge (from the leftover of Step 2). Pin the Cuff Leading Edge and four W2 ribs in place on the front of the wing panel. With the Cuff Leading Edge pinned down against the building board, and the Main Leading Edge up on the 3/8" spacer blocks, the W2 ribs should flow smoothly into the contour of the W1 wing ribs.
When everything is satisfactorily positioned, glue all the joints with thin CA.


Glue in the two WG wing gussets that go in the cuff area of the wing panel.


A piece of 1/4" sq. x2" balsa stick is provided for making the L.G. Strut Anchors. Cut the pieces 1/4" long, which will mean you end up with a 1/4"x1/4"x1/4" balsa cube. Glue these pieces into the wing structure where shown on the plan. Pay attention to the grain direction when gluing them in (see plan).


When dry, the entire wing panel can be removed from the building board. Double-check all the joints for adequate glue and apply a little more if necessary. Clean up any rough edges with a fine grit sanding block.

Repeat Steps 26 through 35 to construct the opposite wing panel.


Sand the outside of the four 1/4" id x1" Aluminum Wing Mount Tubes with 220 grit sandpaper to improve glue adhesion. Then slip the wing mount tubes onto the root ends of the leading and trailing edges of both wing panels.
Now trial fit one of the wing panels to the fuselage, resting the wing mount tubes in position against the DBR dihedral braces in the fuselage.
When you have the wing panel lined up properly, have a helper put a single drop of thin CA glue between the aluminum tube and DBR. Don’t over glue at this point or the excess glue might seep inside the tube, permanently gluing your wing panel into the tubes.
After tack gluing both the front and rear tubes to the dihedral braces, have your helper slowly pull the wing out of the tubes, while you continue to hold pressure against the tubes, keeping them from breaking loose.

After the wing is removed, re-glue the wing mount tubes securely to the surrounding fuselage structure with medium or slow CA. Avoid getting any glue inside the aluminum tubes.


After one set of wing mount tubes has been installed, repeat the same procedure to install the wing mount tubes for the opposite wing panel.

Set the wings aside until needed later.



Carefully remove the following parts for the wheels from the laser-cut sheets:
  • 48 - WSP wheel spokes from sheet #1
  • 4 - WHL wheels from sheet #2
  • 4 - WHB wheel hubs from sheet #4
  • 4 - WHC wheel hub caps from sheet #7

38. Use a #11 hobby knife to cut loose the "pie shaped" scrap pieces between each of the spokes of the WHL parts.


Notice that two of the WHL pieces will be laminated together to form the basic core of one wheel assembly.
However, before gluing them together, use a flat sanding block with medium grit sandpaper (100 to 200 grit), to bevel the outer edge of each WHL piece. Hold the sanding block at a 45 deg. angle. Bevel only one side of the piece.
The purpose of the beveled edge is to provide a groove for the rubber tire to fit in after the WHL pieces are laminated together with their beveled edges facing each other.


It’s very important to work on a perfectly flat surface when gluing the WHL pieces together to insure that the laminated wheel comes out flat.
First lay a piece of waxed paper down on the flat surface.
Next lay a WHL piece down on the waxed paper, with the beveled side up.
Note which way the grain runs through that WHL piece. Position the second WHL piece on top of the first one. Make sure this one is beveled side down. Also make sure the grain direction of the top WHL is 90 deg. to the grain direction of the bottom piece. This will provide maximum strength to the finished wheel.

Carefully match up the spokes of the two WHL pieces exactly. When satisfied with the positioning, hold the parts tightly together with a flat block and place a drop of thin CA glue at the outer edges. Continue placing small drops of thin CA around the entire perimeter of the WHL pieces, until they are solidly glued together.

It will dry very quickly. Then you can pick up the laminated part and continue gluing along the spokes and hub areas.

NOTE: It's best to use a fine applicator tip on your CA bottle during assembly of these wheels. Actually a fine tip is best for the assembly of the entire kit.
Building feather-light models like the Demoiselle requires that we change our thinking a bit from the old habits we've used in building much heavier sport type models. With the small parts involved here, it's not desirable to flood a large area with a lot of glue. It's much better to get a little glue exactly where you need it, and a fine applicator tip does that for you.


41. Next, glue a 1/8" balsa WHB wheel hub and a 1/32" plywood WHC wheel hub cap onto each side of the wheel assembly. To insure that the center holes in all these parts are in correct alignment, it’s best to first dry assemble all these parts onto a piece of .046" dia. x2-1/2" music wire (provided for the axles) as shown. Then, while holding everything snuggly together put a small drop of thin CA glue into each joint. Don’t get any glue on the wire!

When dry, you can take the wire out and put a little more glue on the joints if they need it.


Glue the 1/32" balsa WSP wheel spokes in place on each side of the wheel.
Again, use thin CA and a fine applicator tip to keep the glue application to a minimum.


If you want to paint your wheels, do it now.

For esthetic purposes, you may want to paint your wheels before the tires are put on. We painted ours either gray to simulate steel wheels or brown for wood wheels. It's your choice and a matter of personal preference. Thinned out acrylic latex "craft paint" works very well, or thinned butyrate dope. Whatever you use, one coat is all that is necessary. A completely filled glossy paint job is not necessary or desirable, and it's too heavy for this type of model. One coat achieves the "old time" look we are after.

The amber colored surgical tubing that is provided for the tires can be easily dyed black with regular household variety Rit Dye.


Complete the wheels by gluing a piece of surgical tubing around the outside to serve as the tire.
Again, use thin CA and a fine applicator to keep the glue application under control.
Start by tack gluing one end of the tubing in place in the groove with a single drop of glue. Now work your way slowly around the perimeter of the wheel, lightly gluing the tubing in the groove as you go. It’s not necessary to stretch the tubing as you put it on, simply make sure you are keeping it straight and not weaving side to side. When you get to the last 1" or so, stop gluing.

Carefully measure and cut off the unglued end of the tubing to proper length to mate up with the first end. Prepare a small "splice" to go inside the two ends of the tubing. A balsa stick approximately 1/16" square x1/4" long should be about right. Cut it from a piece of scrap 1/16" laser-cut balsa sheet. Glue it halfway inside one end to the tubing, and then join the other end up to it. Holding everything in position, finish gluing the end of the tire to the wooden wheel.

Set the finished wheels aside for now.


Cut a piece of 1/4" dia. balsa dowel to 7-3/4" long for the main landing gear Spreader Bar. Tightly wrap each end of the spreader bar with dacron thread as shown on the Fuselage Front View plan. Soak the thread wrapped area generously with thin CA glue and then wipe dry with a rag.


Drill a .046" dia. hole in each end of the Spreader Bar. Make the holes about 15/16" deep. Then glue a .046" dia. x2-1/2" straight music wire Axle in each hole. Leave 1-9/16" of the Axle sticking out of the Spreader Bar.


Glue the Spreader Bar in place on the bottom of the fuselage.


47. Bend six L.G. Strut Hooks out of .020" wire, using the full-size pattern on the plan. Glue the L.G. Strut Hooks into the 1/4" balsa L.G. Strut Anchors in the wing. Study the plans and pictures closely to determine the proper direction each L.G. Strut Hook should be pointing.

When finished, install the wing panels on the fuselage.


The basic procedure for construction and installation of the LGS1, LGS2, and LGS3 landing gear struts is to
(a) first cut them roughly to length,
(b) make the bottom (axle) ends, and
(c) fit the struts on the airplane for trimming to final length and finishing the top ends.
  1. Start by cutting 1/8" sq. balsa to the following lengths:
    LGS1 = 9-5/8" long 2 required, LGS2 = 12-1/4" long 2 required and
    LGS3 = 9-3/4" long 2 required
  2. Glue two 1/64" plywood LGS4 doublers on one end of each of the six landing gear struts. When dry, sand the end of the balsa to match the rounded shape of the doublers. Drill a .046" dia. hole completely through the stick, using the holes already in the doublers as a guide.
  3. Assemble the landing gear struts and the wheels onto the wire axles in the proper order (see Fuselage Front View plan). Do not put the plywood WRT wheel retainer on at this time. Now, working on one landing gear strut at a time, hold the top end of the strut up against its specific L.G. Strut Hook and carefully mark the exact location that the wire will go through the strut. Be careful that you are not pushing or pulling on any of the model structure while doing this or you could get a false reading of the actual length needed for that strut.

Take the strut off the airplane and install two LGS4 plywood doublers at the hole location you just marked. Make sure you are putting the doublers on the correct sides of the strut! It's easy to make a mistake! The LGS2 struts have their top and bottom doublers on the same sides of the stick because both wires go through the strut in the same direction. For the LGS1 and LGS3 struts, the strut hook wires at the top go through the stick 90 deg. to the axle wire, so the doublers must be put on the same way.

Once the doublers are glued on and dry, sand the end of the balsa to match the rounded shape of the doublers. Then drill a .046" dia. hole completely through the strut, using the holes in the doublers as a guide. Use the same procedures to complete all the landing gear struts.


Trial fit all the LGS struts and the wheels back on the axles. Hook the tops of the struts to the strut hook wires. If they were made correctly, they should go on easily without inducing any warps into the model structure. Note that the strut hook wires at the top are loose fitting in the holes of the struts. That’s the way they are meant to be! The small angle you bent on the end of the hook should keep the strut from coming off in normal flight.


Press the 1/32" laser-cut plywood WRT wheel retainers on the axles. Slide WRT up tight against the stack of struts and wheel, and then back it off about 1/32" so the wheel can still turn freely. Put a drop of medium or thick CA glue, or epoxy glue, on the outside of WRT to hold it on the axle.


51. Use 2 pair of needle nose pliers to bend the remaining outer end of each axle down as shown on the front view plan. This serves as an attachment point for the rigging wires that will be added later.



Cover the Elevator plan with wax paper or plastic wrap for protection. Using 1/8" square balsa sticks plus the two laser-cut parts E1, construct the elevator directly over the drawing. Remember to cut the longest pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa first, then the shorter pieces, in order to make the most efficient use of the stock 36" long sticks.
When dry, unpin the elevator from the plan and lightly sand all the glue joints smooth.


Cover the Rudder plan with wax paper or plastic wrap for protection. Using 1/8" square balsa sticks plus the two laser-cut parts R1, construct the rudder directly over the drawing.


Using a new sharp blade, carefully slit the 1/8" sq. balsa where the CHN plywood control horns need to be installed in the elevator and rudder (see plan). Because the CHN plywood is so thin (1/64"), there is no need to actually remove any wood from the slot. A single cut through the center line of the balsa is enough. Then press the CHN control horns in the slots and glue with thin CA.


Trial fit the rudder into the gap in the center of the elevator. If the gap is too tight, sand it larger until the rudder slides in easily.
NOTE: When you first start sliding the rudder into the elevator, you will need to keep the front of the rudder up tight against the elevator's center spar in order for the rudder trailing edge to clear the elevator trailing edge.

Then, after you’ve got the rudder properly lined up, simply slide it back until the notch in the rudder trailing edge captures the elevator trailing edge. Both trailing edges should end up flush at the back. When satisfied that the rudder fits properly in the elevator slot, take it back out for the next step


Cover the rudder and the elevator with the white Lite-Span covering material provided. Refer to the section of this booklet called "COVERING THE WINGS" for general covering instructions. Note that the rudder should be covered on both sides, while the elevator is only covered on the top.


57. After the rudder is covered on both sides, put on the decals. It’s a lot easier to put them on now, while the rudder can be laid flat on your workbench, than later when the rudder is mounted on the fuselage.

The decals provided in the kit are self-stick mylar stickers. They should not be dipped in water! Simply cut out the decal design with a sharp hobby knife or scissors, cutting as close to the image as possible. Remove the design off the backing paper with a tweezers and carefully place it position on the model part. Gently rub the decal onto the part with the tip of your finger.


Now slide the rudder back into the gap in the center of the elevator (like you did in Step 55). Line it up carefully in final position, and then glue it in place with thin CA. Set the tail surfaces aside for now.


Next we’ll assemble the Tail Group Universal Joint (see detail drawing of the universal joint on the plan). From the hardware bag locate the two 1/8"x1/2" aluminum tubes and the single piece of 3/32"x1-5/8" white plastic tubing. From the lasercut 1/64" plywood parts sheet, locate and remove the UNV part. For the following steps you will also need thin and medium (or thick) cA glue with a small applicator tip. To "weld" the tubes together you will need a fine powder, such as SIG Micro Balloons or baking soda.

Start by using a sharp single-edge razor blade to cut the 3/32"x1-5/8" white plastic tubing into a single 1" long piece and a single 5/8" long piece, as called for in the drawing. Set these aside for assembly.


The two pieces of 1/8" od x1/2" aluminum tubing will now be glued together, forming the cruciform pivot, which is the heart of the universal joint.
  1. Lightly sand surfaces of both tubes with medium sandpaper to improve glue adhesion.
  2. Using a fine marker pen and a straightedge, accurately draw two lines on your workbench (or on a piece of paper laying flat on your workbench) at 90 deg. to each other. This will be the template for joining the two aluminum tubes. Cover the intersecting lines with a small piece of waxed paper. Slip a length of 1/16th sq. balsa through one of the tubes. Tape the 1/16" sq. balsa piece directly over one of the lines and center the tube at the intersection. Slip another length of 1/16" sq. balsa through the second piece of tubing and tape the balsa stick accurately along the intersecting line on the paper. Lift and visually center the tubing over the bottom piece. When you are satisfied that you have the tubes in perfect alignment, use thin CA glue with a small dia. applicator tip to place a SMALL drop of glue on each side of the top tube, where it contacts the bottom tube.
  3. Apply a SMALL amount of micro balloon powder (or baking soda) to each side of the tube joint and set it with another single drop of CA glue. Remove the tube assembly from the paper template and remove the 1/16" sq. balsa sticks from the tubes. Turn the tube assembly over and apply a SMALL amount of powder to the opposite tubing joints and again set the joints with a single drop of thin CA glue. Inspect the assembly and add more powder if needed. Set the assembly aside for now to dry thoroughly.


Look closely at laser-cut plywood part UNV and notice the four small nicks in the two long sides. These nicks are exactly 1/4" from the ends of the part. Using a sharp hobby knife, lightly score the surface of UNV between the two nicks near one end..

Do the same between the two nicks on the other end. Now bend the ends of the part 90 deg., away from the score lines. Put a tiny bead of thin CA glue in the bends to secure them in the 90 deg. position.

NOTE: Do not cut the score marks too deep or the ends will break off UNV when you bend them. Just drag the knifepoint along the top surface, making a slight cut in only the first layer of veneer.


62. Carefully assemble the 5/8" long plastic tube (from step 59) and the aluminum tube cruciform (from step 60) in the plywood UNV part, as shown. Place a tiny drop of medium or thick CA glue (do not use thin CA for this task) on the outside ends of the plastic tube to adhere it in the plywood. Set the glue with accelerator.
CAUTION: Do not use too much glue! If excess glue soaks past the plywood, it could get inside the aluminum tube, gluing it permanently to the plastic tube.


Cut two 3/16" sq. x1/4" long balsa support blocks. Gently clamp the blocks vertical in a small vise and drill a .093" (3/32" or #42) dia. hole completely through the center. Assemble these support blocks and the 1" long piece of plastic tube (from step 59) to the universal joint.

Place a tiny drop of medium or thick CA glue on the outer ends of the balsa support blocks, securing them to the plastic tube. Set the glue with accelerator.


Fit the completed universal joint in place at the rear of the fuselage. You will need to trim the 1/8" sq. balsa fuselage bottom longerons slightly to accept the universal joint. When it fits properly, carefully glue the universal joint to the fuselage structure with a few tiny drops of CA glue. Once again, be extremely careful not to use too much glue, which could seep inside the aluminum tubes, ruining the joint.


Trial fit the rudder/elevator assembly onto the universal joint support blocks. Be sure to check the alignment of the tail surfaces to the fuselage from the front view. When everything is satisfactory, carefully glue the tail surfaces permanently to the support blocks with a few tiny drops of glue.