Remove the tail surfaces from the model. Sand the entire model smooth. Any gaps or dents can be filled with a balsa filler such as Hobbico Hobbylite™ Filler.


Cover the model with one of the plastic iron on coverings available.


Carefully trim the markings from the decal sheet and apply them to the model. Use the photos on the box and this manual as a guide for placement.



Use tape to hold the windshield on the model. Trace around the windshield with a felt tip pen. Remove the windshield from the model and use your hobby knife to remove the covering from the areas where the windshield makes contact with the fuselage. The bare wood can be painted (we used Sig Black Dope) if you would like.

Glue the windshield to the fuselage. When the glue is dry, finish the edges of the windshield with trim tape as shown.


Place the stabilizer into position on the model. Carefully align it so that it is level when viewed from the front and perpendicular to the fuselage centerline when viewed from the top. In addition, the slot for the fin in the stabilizer must line up with the corresponding slot in the fuselage. Use a felt tip pen to trace around the fuselage where it contacts the stabilizer.

Remove the stabilizer from the model and very carefully trim the covering away from the bottom of the stabilizer to produce wood to wood contact between the stabilizer and the fuselage.


Now glue the stabilizer to the fuselage with epoxy to allow time to align it with the fuselage.

Glue the elevator joiner wire into the elevator halves. Install the hinges in the elevator and glue to the stabilizer.

Test fit the fin to the top of the stabilizer. Mark and remove the covering where the fin will contact the stabilizer. Now glue the fin into position making sure that the fin is properly aligned.

Trim and fit the 1/4" triangle braces at the bottom of the fin. Mark and remove the covering from the fin and stabilizer under the balsa triangle. Cover the outside surface of the balsa triangles with covering material. Now glue the braces into position.


Hinge the rudder to the vertical fin and fuselage tailpost. When the glue is dry on the hinges, flex the rudder and elevators several times to free up the hinges and to check for proper operation.


103. Assemble the rear ends of the elevator and rudder pushrods, using the 2-56 x7" threaded one-end pushrods. Insert the unthreaded end all the way into nylon tube and thread the pushrod in place, using about 1/2 of the threads. Now thread the nylon clevis onto the reaming pushrod threads.


Slide the elevator and rudder pushrod into the fuselage from the rear. Use the pushrod and clevis to help establish the location for the elevator and rudder horn. Drill the mounting holes for the horns in the elevator and rudder and install them using the screws provided. Move the control surfaces to check for freedom of movement. You may have to bend the rudder pushrod slightly to prevent binding.


Solder a solder clevises onto the unthreaded end of the 2-56 x1-1/2" threaded one-end pushrods. These are the servo ends of the rudder and elevator pushrods. Make two of these assemblies, as shown.


Attach the clevis to the output arms on the rudder and elevator servos. Position the elevator and rudder in the neutral position. Pull the pushrod housings forward against the sides of the threaded rods and mark the housings at the forward end of the threads in the rod. Cut the housing and inner pushrod at the mark. Remove the inner pushrod and cut an additional 1" from the front of the housing. Reinstall the pushrods and screw the front clevis into the pushrods. Attach the clevis to the servos and adjust the length so that the control surfaces are in the neutral position when the servos are centered.


Slip the lite ply pushrod retainers (F-22) into position on the elevator and rudder pushrods. The F-22’s should be glued to former F-5 and to the pushrod housings.


Bend the 3/64" dia. x5" switch extension wire and install. Glue the 1/4" sq. spruce retainer to F-21 so that it just touches the wire extension.


Hinge and install the ailerons on the model. Glue the hinges securely and also glue the torque rod ends into the ailerons. When the glue is dry, flex the ailerons up and down to loosen up the hinges and to check for freedom of movement.


Remove the covering at the aileron servo rail locations at each end of the aileron servo and glue the 1/4" spruce servo rails to the wing. When the glue is dry, mount the servo with the hardware supplied with the radio.


111. Thread the nylon torque rod fittings onto the aileron pushrods. Attach them to the connectors on the aileron torque rods. With the ailerons in the neutral position and the servo centered, mark, cut, and solder the metal clevisie to the front end of the pushrods. Attach the pushrods and adjust the pushrods until the ailerons are in the neutral position when the servo is centered.


Using 30-minute epoxy, glue the motor pylon support into the slot in the wing center section.


Glue the motor pod to the top of the motor pylon support using epoxy. Cut away any covering material on the bottom of the pod that would prevent a wood to wood joint. When the epoxy is hard, attach the fuel and vent line to the fuel tank and then bolt the motor & mount into position.


Take one end of the throttle cable and bend it back on itself 1/2" as shown. Now insert this end of the throttle cable into the threaded brass coupler and solder securely together. Screw the small nylon clevis onto the end of the brass coupler. Feed the throttle cable into the housing and attach the clevis to the throttle arm on the motor.


Assemble the throttle servo mount from parts TS-1, TS-2, and the two 1/4" sq. spruce strips. Be sure that the TS-2 ends are 90° to the base (TS-1). When the glue is dry, install the throttle servo using the hardware provided with the radio. The servo arm on the throttle servo should be positioned fore and aft when the servo is centered as shown.


Install the pushrod connector onto the output arm on the throttle servo. Insert the throttle cable into the servo connector and slide the servo down onto the wing. Mark around the base of the throttle mount. Remove the servo and remove the covering from the wing to provide a wood to wood glue joint. Reposition the servo on the wing and glue into position.


When the glue is dry, trim the excess length from the throttle cable. Bend the end over about 1/2" and insert the end back through the servo connector so there is a double thickness of cable passing through the connector. Adjust the throttle for full throw and tighten the screw in the servo connector.


Install the propeller and spinner onto the motor. Install the muffler onto the motor and connect the feed and vent lines.
NOTE: The pylon feature found on flying boats such as the Sealane are more sensitive to vibration than a traditional fuselage mounted motor. For this reason it is important that you balance the propeller / spinner assembly to minimize vibration.


If you are installing the optional landing gear on the model, bend the front main landing gear legs to the shape shown on the plan. Insert the front landing gear into the tube in the model. Position it so that it is vertical (perpendicular to the fuselage centerline) and tighten the wheel collar inside the fuselage to lock it into position. Bend the rear strut to fit against the forward strut. Wrap the connection with copper wire and solder together securely. Now install the wheels and retain them with wheel collars.


Bend the tailwheel wire to shape. Epoxy parts A, B, and C together with the tail wheel wire sandwiched in the middle. When the glue sets, mount the tail wheel to the axle. Insert this assembly into the slot in the bottom of the rudder.

Drill the mounting holes and use 2-56 screws and nuts to hold the tailwheel assembly in place.


Wrap the airborne battery pack in foam and place it in a small plastic bag for waterproofing. Attach the extension cable that came with your radio to the battery pack. Insert the battery pack into the fuselage and all the way forward in the nose of the model. There should be enough foam to wedge the battery in place and hold it from sliding around.


Wrap the receiver in foam rubber. Drill a small hole in the top of the fuselage immediately behind the wing. Place the receiver in the fuselage and route the antenna back and out through the hole in the top of the fuselage. The loose end of the antenna should be secured to the top of the fin. Connect the aileron, rudder, elevator, and throttle servos to the receiver. Wrap the receiver in a small plastic bag for waterproofing. Place the receiver in the fuselage just ahead of the servo tray. There should be enough foam to wedge the receiver in place and hold it from sliding around.


Bolt the wing to the model. Bolt the tip floats in place. Balance the model at the location shown on the plan. This should be done with the fuel tank empty. Add weight to the nose or tail until the proper balance is achieved.


Set the control throws as shown on the plan. Check that the control surfaces move in the proper direction when you move the sticks on the transmitter.


Always pre-flight your model thoroughly before each flight. Always range check your radio before each flight. It is your responsibility to verify that your model is airworthy. Always follow established safety guidelines while starting and operating the engine, radio, and while flying the model.




The Sig SeaLane is a very good handling model and it flies just like traditional land models. If you are flying your model from the land using the optional landing gear you will find that the operation of the Sealane is just like any other tail wheel model. Just remember to check the tightness and security of the landing gear before each flight.

Flying the SeaLane from the water is a fantastic experience. When you fly from water you generally have a much larger runway available than you would have if you were flying from the land. Another difference with seaplanes is that you always get to take off and land into the wind. With the large area available on the water, there is no reason for crosswind operations.

Taxiing a seaplane is a little different than a land plane. You always want to make sure that your motor is operating reliably before putting your model in the water. Once in the water the model will immediately start to taxi even with the motor at idle. Sometimes this requires you to plan ahead a little as you cannot stop the model on the water with the motor running. You will find that the rudder is effective in controlling the model on the water. If the wind is blowing you will find that it is easier to turn the model into the wind than it is to turn off of the wind. In fact, just like full size seaplanes, you will find that with a strong enough wind that you are unable to turn the model downwind while taxiing. When this is the case you just point the nose into the wind and let it push the model backwards. In full size seaplanes this is known as sailing and is a vital part of learning to fly a full size seaplane. In fact, when getting a seaplane rating in a full size seaplane, transitioning pilots spend most of their time learning to handle the aircraft on the water. So spend some time learning to handle your SeaLane on the water properly. Some water operations require finesse and brute force and power are not usually the best option.

Taxi your SeaLane down wind to the take off position. Turn the model directly into the wind. Start the takeoff run by holding the elevators in the full up position. Slowly add throttle. As the model accelerates, it starts forming a bow wave. As speed increases this wave grows larger and moves back along the fuselage. This is the point that some water spray will come up and be blown through the prop. This is during the transition from displacement mode to planing mode. As the model moves faster, water lifts the hull until it is planing like a speed boat. The transition from idle to planing speed happens in just seconds and the model accelerates through this region easily. As the model comes up on the step (planing) reduce the elevator input to neutral. After about two seconds at planing speed gradually feed in some up elevator and the model will lift from the water.

In the air, the SeaLane flys like any other model. Gain a little altitude and get the feel of the model. Once at altitude, trim as required to maintain straight and level flight. Reduce the throttle at altitude and see how it handles at slow speed.

The SeaLane flies the same type of landing pattern as a traditional land plane. Fly straight and level downwind, parallel to the landing area. When you are abeam of your desired touch down point, slowly reduce the throttle and establish a glide. When you’re a little ways past the touchdown point you can turn the model and line it up with the "runway". Continue the approach, holding the wings level, controlling the rate of decent with the throttle. As you approach the water surface, apply a slight amount of up elevator to level the model. Hold the model level or slightly nose up and slowly reduce the power as the model settles on the water.

Do not try to make a full stall landing. Instead fly the model onto the water in a level attitude at the lowest possible speed.

Your first several landings will probably be a little fast and the model may want to skip back into the air. Be prepared for this and just keep the nose level and let the model settle back into the water as it decelerates. The model will quickly slow down after landing and quickly slow to a taxi speed.

We sincerely hope that your SIG SEALANE will provide you with many, many enjoyable flights. We also hope that this has been a pleasurable kit for you to assemble and fly. Please operate your airplane in a safe, responsible manner with constant regard to other flyers, spectators, and property.


Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys! Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they crash.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to ground test the finished model be fore each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a safe manner. The first test flights should only be made by an experienced R/C flyer, familiar with high performance R/C aircraft.

The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, commonly called the AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe operation of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not necessarily mandatory, it is required by most R/C flying clubs in the U.S. and provides you with important liability insurance in case your R/C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. For more information, contact:
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Telephone: (317) 287-1256

Customer Service

SIG MFG. CO. is totally committed to your success in both building and flying the SEALANE design. Should you encounter any problem building this kit, or discover any missing or damaged parts, please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.

401-7 South Front Street
Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
SIG MODELER S ORDERLINE: (to order parts)1-800-247-5008
SIG MODELER S HOTLINE (for technical support)1-641-623-0215

© Copyright SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

LIMIT OF LIABILITY: The craftsmanship, attention to detail and actions of the builder/flyer of this model airplane kit will ultimately determine the airworthiness, flight performance and safety of the finished model. SIG MFG. CO's obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.