SEALANE RC85 - BUILDING THE WING

NOTE: The wing is built directly on the plan, so cover the plan with wax paper before assembly. These instructions are identical for both the right and left wing panels.


27.

Start building the right wing by pinning the lower 1/4" sq. spruce spar to the plan. Also, pin the 1/4" sq. balsa trailing edge to the plan. The inboard ends should be located as shown in the photo. The outboard ends will extend past the last W-4 rib at the wing tip.

28.

Place rib W-1 into position. It should be 90 to the building board. Glue W-1 to the spar and trailing edge. Glue the W-4 rib against the outboard side of W-1.

29.

Place the two laser cut lite ply shear webs (W-2) into position. Use a scrap of 1/4" balsa from one of the laser cut sheets as a spacer to maintain proper separation between the F-2s. Glue the F-2s to the main wing spar and to rib F-1.
IMPORTANT NOTE: One end of W-2 is 90 and the other end has a slight angle. The end with the angle should face inboard. Use the front view on the plan to help identify the proper alignment.

30.

Place rib W-3 into position. Because of the angle on the inboard end of W-2, the W-3 will not be 90 to the building board but instead it will lean slightly toward the wing tip. Glue the rib to the main spar and to the W-2 shear webs. Be sure to align the shear webs with the top spar notch before gluing.




31.

Place parts W-5 and W-6 into position between W-1 and W-3. Note that there is an angle on one end of these parts which should be oriented the same as the W-2 shear webs.

32.

Carefully cut the spar joiner slots in ribs W-1 and W-3 as shown. You can use your hobby knife or razor saw to make these cuts.

33.

Position the remaining W-4 ribs on the spar and trailing edge and glue in place. These ribs should be 90 to the building board.




34.

Place the top 1/4" sq. main spar into position with the inboard end flush with the face of the W-3 rib. Make sure the spar is completely seated in the slots in the ribs and glue the spar in place. The inboard end should be flush with the top of the W-2s. Place the 3/32"x1" trailing edge sheet into position and glue it to the top of the 1/4" sq. trailing edge and the wing ribs.

35.

Glue the 3/32" balsa shear webs to the back of the main spars in the second and third rib bay as shown. These shear webs have the grain oriented vertically. The parts provided in the kit are slightly long and should be trimmed to achieve a tight fit against the wing ribs. The shear webs should be glued to the spars as well as the wing ribs.

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36. Glue the 3/32" balsa shear webs to the front of the main spars in the second through the eight rib bay as shown. These shear webs have the grain oriented vertically. The parts provided in the kit are slightly long and should be trimmed to achieve a tight fit against the wing ribs. The shear webs should be glued to the spars as well as the wing ribs.

Glue the 3/8" sq. balsa leading edge into position at the front of the wing ribs.




37.

Glue the hardwood tip float anchors (W-7) to the spars and the wing rib at the location shown on the plan.

NOTE: There are four pieces of 3/32" balsa sheet in the kit for sheeting the leading edges of the wing. The 3-1/8" wide sheets are used on the top of the wing. The 3" sheets are used on the bottom of the wing only.

38.

Place the 3-1/8" wide 3/32" leading edge sheet into position as shown. The front edge should be completely against the 3/8" sq. leading edge and the ends should extend past the W-3 rib at the inboard end and the W-4 rib at the outboard end. When positioned properly, the sheet should be glued to the 3/8" sq. leading edge only.

39.

Roll the sheeting back and down onto the wing ribs. Glue the sheet to all of the wing ribs and to the top spruce spar.

Note: You can moisten the outside face of this sheet with an ammonia based cleaner such as Sigs Pure Magic Airplane Cleaner. Allow it to soak in for about 10 minutes before bending the sheet.




40.

Glue the 3/32" wing center section sheet into position at the inboard end of the wing between the leading and trailing edge sheet. The outboard end should end at the point shown on the plan with the extra length extending past rib W-3. The front piece can be used with its full 3" width. The second (rear) sheet needs to be trimmed to the proper width to fit between the first sheet and the trailing edge sheet.



41.

Fit the tip float rib cap strip (W-8) into position at the location shown on the plan. Trim the rear end to fit against the trailing edge sheet. When properly fit, glue W-8 into place.

42.

Remove the wing from the plan. From the bottom, and using the W-7s as a drill guide, use a 5/32" drill bit to drill through the tip float rib cap strip (W-8). After drilling the two holes, place the wing panel back onto the building board.

Cut the remaining top cap strips from the 3/32"x1/4" balsa strip and glue them into position onto each exposed rib.

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43. Turn the wing panel over, upside down on the building board. Place the 3" wide 3/32" bottom leading edge sheet into position as shown. The front edge should be completely against the 3/8" sq. leading edge and the ends should extend past the W-3 rib at the inboard end and the W-4 rib at the outboard end. When positioned properly, the sheet should be glued to the 3/8" sq. leading edge only.

44.

Roll the sheeting back and down onto the wing ribs. Glue the sheet to all of the wing ribs and to the top spruce spar.

Note: You can moisten the outside face of this sheet with an ammonia based cleaner such as Sigs Pure Magic Airplane Cleaner. Allow it to soak in for about 10 minutes before bending the sheet.




45.

Glue the 3/32" wing center section sheet into position at the inboard end of the wing between the leading and trailing edge sheet. The outboard end should end at the point shown on the plan with the extra length extending past rib W-3. The front piece can be used with its full 3" width. The second (rear) sheet needs to be trimmed to the proper width to fit between the first sheet and the trailing edge sheet.

46.

Fit the tip float rib cap strip (W-8) into position at the location shown on the plan. Trim the rear end to fit against the trailing edge sheet. When properly fit, glue W-8 into place. Cut the remaining cap strips from the 3/32"x1/4" balsa strip and glue into position.





47.

Trim the wing sheeting and spars flush with both ends of the wing as shown. Sand the leading edge uniformly round. Sand the wing panel smooth all over.

48.

Glue the lite ply tip ribs (W-9) to the outboard end of the wing.

49.

Glue the triangular wing tip block into position as shown. The bottom edge should be flush with the bottom of the wing with the excess sticking up above the top of the wing.

50.

Trim the top of the wing tip block to match the airfoil shape of the top of the wing ribs and W-9. Then sand the front end round to match the wing leading edge.



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51. Use epoxy to glue W-10 to the face of W-1. The bottom should be flush with the bottom of the wing and the front should be flush with the front of W-6. Be sure that the pointed part is not blocking the hole between the spars.

52.

Use a razor saw or a hack saw to cut away the section of W-10 as shown in the photo. This is the area for the aileron servo and this part of W-10 is easier to remove at this time.

53.

Without using glue, test fit the 1/4" birch ply wing joiner into both the left and right wing panels. You may lightly sand these parts if the fit is too tight, however you do want a snug fit without slop or play. Now, using 30 minute epoxy, glue the wing joiner into the slot in the left wing. Wipe any excess epoxy that squeezes out of the joint and allow to dry completely.




54.

Use 30 minute epoxy to glue the wing joiner into the right wing and to join the right wing to W-10.


55.

Using the plan as a guide, mark the location of the aileron torque rod assembly on the bottoms of the two torque rod bearing blocks. Cut a small notch in the lower leading edge for clearance. Be sure to make a right and left hand parts. Lightly oil the wire to help prevent excess glue from sticking.

Carefully glue the aileron torque rods into the blocks by applying a tiny amount of glue to the brass tube bearing and pressing the torque rod into position.

Now glue the torque rod blocks to the trailing edge of the wing.




56.

Place the wing on the fuselage. Mark a centerline on the fuselage and the wing. Use these marks to align the wing on the fuselage. It must be centered left and right. Now hold the wing tightly in position and use a 1/4" drill bit to drill the wing dowel holes in W-6 & W-5.


57.

Use epoxy to glue the 1/4" dowels into the front face of the wing center section. Be sure that the dowels are pointed straight ahead and not angled to the side or up and down. Allow the epoxy to cure.

58.

Place the wing back onto the fuselage. Use the centerline marks to establish the proper alignment of the trailing edge. Mark the location of the wing bolts on the top of the wing. The approximate location of the holes is 5/8" forward of the trailing edge and 3/4" in from the fuselage side. Double check the measurements on your model to ensure that the holes will be approximately centered on the plywood wing bolt blocks in the fuselage.

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59. Hold the wing securely in position on the fuselage and drill 3/16" holes through the wing and into the wing bolt blocks in the fuselage. The drill should be held so that it is angled 90 to the top of the wing surface.

Remove the wing from the model. Use a 1/4-20 tap to cut threads in the wing bolt blocks. After removing the tap, coat the threads with thin C/A glue to harden the wood. When dry, run the tap back through the holes to clean out the threads.




60.

Glue the 1/32" plywood wing bolt plates to the top of the wing. They should be centered on the 3/16" holes in the wing. Now use a 1/4" drill bit to open up the 3/16" holes in the wing and drill through the wing bolt plates. Use the nylon 1/4-20 x1-1/2" bolts to mount the wing back into position on the fuselage.




61.

Trim or sand the bevel on the front of the two ailerons. Mark guidelines on the top, front, and bottom of the aileron. Now use your hobby knife to trim the corners away down to the guide lines. Lightly sand as required to finish the bevel. Hold the ailerons against the wing trailing edge and cut it to the proper length. There should be a 1/16" gap at each end. Also mark the location of the hinges and the aileron torque rod.

62.

Cut the slots for the hinges in the wing and ailerons. Drill a 3/32" hole in the leading edge for the aileron torque rod. You will also need to cut a small pocket in the leading edge from the torque rod hole to the inboard end to accept the torque rod wire and allow the aileron to be flush against the trailing edge of the wing. Test hinge the aileron to the wing and make sure that the ailerons move freely.

You will need to cut a small angled notch in the bottom of the wing immediately in front and in back of the aileron torque rod to allow it to move forward and backwards, where it exits the bottom of the wing.

63.

Sand the wing entirely smooth and set aside for now.







64.

Glue the 3/32" balsa sheet to the top of the fuselage between F-3 and F-15. Note that the grain runs left and right. Position the sheet so there is an equal amount of overhang all around. After the glue is dry, trim away the excess sheet and sand it flush on all sides.

65.

Glue the 1" sq. x4-1/2" balsa block into position on top of F-9 and against F-3. When the glue is dry, trim and sand the block to the shape shown here and on the plan.

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BUILDING THE MOTOR PYLON

66.

Place the motor mount that you are using on the firewall (P-2). Center the hole in the mount with the hole in P-2. Mark and drill the mounting holes in P-2. Remove the mount from the firewall and install the 6-32 blind nuts.

Install the mount on the firewall with the proper screws. If the screws extend past the rear of the firewall they must be cut off to prevent damage to the fuel tank. The motor mount screws should stick out the back of the blind nuts about 3/32".

Position the motor on the mount. The front face of the propeller flange on the motor should be 3/34" to 4" forward of the firewall. Mark and drill the motor mount for the screws that you are using. Temporarily bolt the motor to the mount. Check the fit and security and then remove the motor from the mount.




67.

Assemble the motor pod from parts P-1, P-2, P-3, and P-4. Use epoxy and make sure that all of the joints are securely glued. Double check that the blind nuts on the firewall are facing the proper direction. Glue the two pieces of 1/4" balsa triangle into the front corners between P-2 and P-4 sides.







68.

Assemble the fuel tank following the manufacturers instructions. Use a two line system where one line is the fuel pickup/fill line and one line is the pressure/vent line. Place a bead of silicone rubber to the front of the tank and insert the fuel tank into the pod. The front of the tank should be up against the back of the firewall and the silicone should seal and bond the tank to the firewall. Allow the silicone to dry.

69.

Glue the two pylon support parts P-6 to each side of P-5. When the glue is dry, trim away any overhang and sand the front and rear edges round. The top and bottom should not be sanded. Test fit the support to the bottom of the pod.



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70. Mark the firewall for the location of the throttle pushrod. Mark the bottom of the pod where the throttle cable will exit. Now carefully drill holes in these parts making sure that you do not damage the fuel tank.Insert the throttle pushrod housing into the pod with about 2" sticking out of the firewall and the remainder sticking out from the bottom of P-1. Glue the housing securely into position.

71.

Wrap and glue the 3/32" sheeting around the pod. When the glue is dry, trim the sheet flush with the front of P-2 and the rear face of P-3.

72.

Glue the balsa block to P-3. The bottom of the block should be flush with the bottom of P-1. When the glue is dry, sand the block to the cylindrical shape as the pod.





73.


Trim and sand the rounded side profile, the top profile and finally round off the corners. Use care not to bend or kink the throttle pushrod where it exits the bottom of the pod.



74.

Bolt the motor back on the motor mount. Slide the spinner backup ring (P-7) over the crankshaft. Install the spinner back plate on the motor using the proper adapter and the motors thrust washer and prop nut. If the threads on the crankshaft are not long enough to allow the nut to be tightened without the propeller, use spacers behind the nut as required.

Glue several small scraps of 3/32" balsa between the spinner back plate and P-7. This will establish an even spacing between these parts.




75.

Cut the bottom piece of the motor fairing from one of the 1/4" balsa sheets provided. The back end should beveled to create a tight fitting joint against P-1. The front edge should be beveled to create a tight fit against P-7. When you are satisfied with the fit, glue the 1/4" balsa sheet into position.

76.

Cut, fit and install the remaining 1/4" balsa sheet sides of the fairing. Start at the bottom and work toward the top. The pieces of sheet should be trimmed to achieve a tight fit against the adjacent parts. Build up the sides to the level shown in the photo. When the glue is dry, trim the top edges to allow clearance for the muffler and needle valve and also to provide access to the fuel and vent lines as well as the motor bolts.

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77. Remove the engine from the mount. Trim and sand the fairing to a smooth shape. Drill a 1/4" drain hole in the bottom of the fairing. This drain hole should be centered left and right and immediately in front of the firewall (P-2).

Remove the motor mount from the firewall.

The firewall and exposed wood inside the fairing should be painted and sealed with a fuel proof paint such as Sig Butyrate Dope or epoxy.

Test fit the motor pylon assembly to the wing. The supports should be a tight fit into the slot in the wing. Drill a 1/16" hole through the wing to allow the throttle pushrod housing to pass through. Now remove the pylon parts and set them aside until it is time to cover the model.

78.

Just before joining the wings, you cut away a section of W-10. Take one of the servos and set it on the bottom of the wing. Center it fore and aft over the cut out section of W-10. The servo should be centered left and right. Use a pen to mark around the base of the servo as shown. Remove the servo and use your hobby knife to remove the balsa sheet on the bottom to open up the aileron servo well.



Test fit the servo in the opening. There should be about 1/16" clearance between the servo case and the lower wing skin.


BUILDING THE FLOATS


79.


Lay the parts T-4 over the drawing on the plan. Mark both fore and aft and left and right centerlines on these parts as shown. Mark fore and aft and left and right centerlines on the bottom of the wing.









80.

Place the T-4 parts on the bottom of the wing. Align the centerlines on the T-4s with the marks on the wing and tape T-4 securely to the bottom of the wing. Use a 5/32" drill bit to drill down through the wing and through T-4. Mark the T-4 parts "left" or "right". Install the 8-32 blind nuts into the T-4s and test fit them by bolting them to the wing.

Make sure that the centerlines stay aligned while drilling the holes.

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81. Glue the parts T-2, T-3 and T-4 to T-1 as shown. They should be 90 to T-1. When the glue is dry, sand the front of the assembly so the front of the formers are flush with T-1.

82.

Test fit and glue the 1/4 balsa tip float leading edge into position. The leading edge should be centered left and right and from top to bottom.

83.

Take the 1/16" balsa tip float sheet and glue them together as shown on the plan. You will need to make 4 sets of sheeting, two for the left tip float and two for the right tip float. Place the front edge of the sheet against the leading edge sheet and against the front edge of the formers and glue the sheet to the leading edge. When the glue is dry, roll and press the sheet into contact with the formers and glue securely into position. Repeat this process to sheet the opposite side of this tip float and both sides of the other tip float.

84.

Trim and sand the sheet flush with the top, bottom and trailing edge of the float. Trim and sand the 1/4" balsa leading edge to the rounded shape shown. Glue the 1/4" sq. balsa trailing edge to the back of the floats and then sand to match the contours of the tip float.

85.

Mount the wing onto the fuselage. Use the parts W-11 to fill in the gaps between the leading edge of the wing and the fuselage. There should be a 1/32" gap between the W-11s and the fuselage to allow for the thickness of the covering. Sand the parts smooth to match the contour of the leading edge.





BUILDING THE OPTIONAL LANDING GEAR MOUNTS


If you would like to add the optional landing gear to your model, complete the following steps now. However, the landing gear actually can be added to the model after it is completely finished. If you decide not to add it at this time but decide later that you want to, its not a problem.

Note: The parts for the optional material are not included in the kit and must be supplied by the builder.

86.

Use the patterns on the plans to cut the wooden landing gear parts.



87.

Glue the two F-1C doublers into position on the inside of the left and right fuselage sides. The bottom edge should touch the sheet on the bottom of the fuselage and the front and back should touch the formers.

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88. Using the locations marked on F-1C, drill two 3/16" holes through each fuselage side. Fit and glue the front and rear landing gear support into position as shown on the plan. The top edges should line up with the bottom of the holes in the fuselage sides. Cut two 4-7/8" lengths of 3/16" brass tube into the holes in the fuselage making sure that the 3/16" wheel collars are in place. The tubes should stick out from the fuselage sides an equal amount. Glue the tubes to the supports and the fuselage sides. The wheel collars can be epoxied to the fuselage side with the screw hole at the top. When the epoxy has cured, sand the excess tube off flush with the fuselage side.




89.

Lay the 1/16" plywood parts "A" on the bottom of the rudder and mark a line along the top edge of "A". Use your hobby knife to trim the 1/2" balsa strip from the bottom of the rudder. Use your hobby knife to trim 1/16" of material from the rudder as shown. Use the parts "A" to measure the depth of the cut. The "A"s should be flush with the rudder when properly cut. Glue the two "A"s into place making sure that the top is flush and the gap between them is parallel to the rudder centerline. Sand the plywood parts smooth and round the back end to match the curve on the rudder.





PRE-COVER ASSEMBLY


90.


Measure and mark a line in the fuselage about 3" down from the edge of the wing opening. Glue the two 1/4" sq. supports to the fuselage immediately below the line. Now glue the lite ply servo tray (F-21) into the fuselage. The tray should sit on top of the balsa supports. You might have to squeeze the fuselage sides together to pull them against the edges of the servo tray.




91.

Mount the elevator and rudder servos into the servo tray using the hardware provided with the radio. Mount the switch for the radio into the servo tray. Unless the switch is extra long, you will not use the normal face plate provided with the switch.

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Mount the elevator and rudder servos into the servo tray using the hardware provided with the radio. Mount the switch for the radio into the servo tray. Unless the switch is extra long, you will not use the normal face plate provided with the switch.

The switch lever should have a 1/16" hole in it. Some switches come with this hole, however some do not and if yours does not have the hole, you will have to drill it.


92.


Glue the ventral fin (R-3 to the bottom of the fuselage. Make sure it lines up with the aft end of the model so that the rudder will fit properly.

Insert the rudder and elevator pushrod housing tubes into the fuselage with about 1-1/2" sticking out from the exit at the fuselage side. Slightly roughen up this end with sandpaper for better adhesion and glue the pushrod housings into the exit. When the glue is dry, trim and sand the housings flush with the fuselage sides.



93.


Mark the angle shown on the top of F-20. Use your hobby knife to trim F-20 back to the marked lines. The angles should extend from the top to the bottom of F-20. Now gently sand F-20 smooth.



94.

Make a final test fit of the tail surfaces to the fuselage. Pin the stabilizer and elevator to the fuselage. Pin the fin into position. Cut the lower two hinge slots into the fuselage. Temporarily hinge the rudder to the model and test for proper movement.


95.


Cut the windshield pattern from the plan and test fit it to the fuselage. If all looks well, place the pattern on the windshield plastic and carefully cut around it with a new sharp knife. Use tape to temporarily hold the windshield into position and trim if needed for a tight fit.