ANNIVERSARY CUB RC82 COVERING AND FINISHING

No matter what brand and type of covering material you decide to use (iron-on plastic, iron-on fabric, or bare cloth and paint) the surface of your uncovered model directly affects what the covering job will look like when you are done. Poor workmanship will show right through. Now is the time to carefully inspect the surface of the entire model. Carefully sand smooth any mis-matched sheeting joints. Use a good quality, light weight filler to fill in any dents, nicks, or dings. The entire model should be final sanded with 220 grit sandpaper, progressing to 360 grit. The surfaces to be covered must be clean, dry and dust-free. Use a tack rag and/or compressed air to make sure the model is completely dusted. We would also suggest that you make sure the physical area where you will be covering the model is as clean and dustfree as possible.

Fuel Proofing

Before covering the fuselage, coat the entire front surface of the firewall with two or three coats of SIG Clear Dope, polyester or epoxy resin, and other fuel proof paint. Also, fuel proof the grooves on the main gear blocks and around the door opening.

Covering The Wings

146a.

Begin by covering the ends of the aileron bays. Run the covering material around onto the top and bottom. Also, cover the W-1 end rib of the wing panel, again run the covering around the top and bottom of the wing about 1/8".



BUILDERS TIP: An good way of open small round holes in the covering, like where the wing struts bolt on, is to briefly heat the tip of a small diameter Phillips screwdriver or an awl with a butane torch. Then, quickly press the tip into the covering film, directly over the hole. The covering will melt around the edge of the hole, sealing it and leaving a perfectly round opening.

b.

Cover the bottom of the wing with one piece of covering material. Like all open structures, you should seal the covering down all along the outside edges of the structure first. At the root end of the wing panel, seal the covering over the edges and onto the end rib. Along the back of the wing panel, slit the excess covering at each end of the aileron bay and run the flap of covering material around the corner and seal it on to the face of the aileron opening. In the aileron servo bay, cut an "X" pattern, then iron the excess material inside the hatch area, against the ribs and hatch rails.

c.

When all the edges are fastened down, cover the top side of the wing in similar fashion.

d.

Shrink the top and bottom covering tight with a heat gun. Refer to instructions that came with your covering material.

Covering The Ailerons

Start by covering both ends of the aileron with small scrap pieces. Then, cover the bottom with one piece, cutting a slot for the horn. Finally, cover the top in one piece. Shrink both sides simultaneously with a heat gun.

Covering The Aileron Hatches


Start by applying an oversize piece of covering to the top of the hatch. Then turn it over and cut out the excess at the corners to make it easier to wrap and seal the covering around the edges. Continue wrapping and sealing the covering around the edges and onto the bottom. Then, shrink the top surface tight.

Covering The Fuselage And Fin

On the full-size Cubs, the fuselage and fin are covered with one continuous piece of fabric. It bridges from the top stringers of the fuselage sides up to fin rib, producing a beautiful fillet. The construction of this model duplicates this feature. Your covering material should bridge from the balsa tail fairings up to the fin bottom rib and then, forward over the top of the fuselage. This may at first sound like a difficult job, but it’s much easier than you’d think, if you proceed in the right sequence.

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147a. Cut a piece of material that will cover the entire left side of the fin, the left side of the fuselage top, and all the way forward to the center section hatch.


b.

Begin sealing the covering down to the fuselage top stringer, the fuselage corner stringer, and to the hatch opening at the front. Pull out any large wrinkles or sags in the covering as you work. To get more adhesion area, wrap the covering material around the sides of the stringers. That way there will no chance that the covering will come loose.
148a. Straighten out the rear end of the covering and adhere it to the tail fairing. Pull the material as smooth and tight as possible, while you iron it to the fin. Don’t forget to adhere it to the fin rib as well as the outside edges.
b. Cover the other side of the fin and fuselage top with a separate piece of covering material.
c. Use a heat gun to slowly shrink both sides of the fin covering simultaneously.

149.

The rest of the fuselage should be covered with three more pieces. One for the bottom, one for the right side of the fuselage (including half of the nose), and one for the left side (and other half of the nose).

150.

Cover the top of removable center section hatch. Run the covering material around the edges and adhere it to the bottom.

151.

Cover both sides of the door with separate pieces of covering material. Remove the latch mechanism from the door before covering it. After the door is covered, glue in the two hinges you fitted to the door way back in the fuselage construction. Glue the other ends of the door hinges into the fuselage. Then, reassemble the door handle and a latch, and make any final adjustments.


152.

Cover the outside of the door window with covering material. We painted the inside with matching Cub Yellow paint. Then hinge the door window to the fuselage.

Covering The Tail Surfaces

153.

The stabilizer is covered after it is mounted on the fuselage (see "Attaching The Tail Surfaces" earlier). Cover the bottom of one side first. Trim a perfectly straight edge along the side of the covering material that will butt up to the fuselage side. Adhere that edge to the stabilizer first. Then, straighten out the loose covering material and start sticking the other edges down. Wrap the material slightly over halfway around the edges. Trim off the excess. Then, cover the top side with another piece of covering material, in the same manner. After you have both sides covered, use a heat gun to shrink the covering.

154.

Cover the elevators and rudder, using a separate piece of material for each side. Wait until you have both sides covered before shrinking the material tight. This helps avoid warps.

Attaching The Rudder

155.

After the rudder is covered, epoxy the molded Nylon Rudder Horn at the bottom. Let dry.

156.

Hinge the rudder to the back of the fuselage with three SIG Easy Hinges, following the same procedures you used to hinge the elevators to the stabilizer earlier.

Painting The Wing Struts And Landing Gear

Prime and color paint the wing struts and landing gear with a paint of your choice. Because there are metal parts involved, be sure to choose a primer that sticks well to metal. Aircraft dope does not stick as well to metal as epoxy primer does.

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We’ve used and can recommend NELSON HOBBY SPECIALTIES water-based two-part EPOXY PRIMER for the wing struts and landing gear. Brush or spray a coat of the epoxy primer over the entire part. When dry, sand well. Put on another coat of epoxy primer, let dry, and sand again until the surface of the wood and fiberglassed area are smooth. Then, we sprayed two coats of SIG CUB YELLOW SUPERCOAT DOPE over the primer. The SIG CUB YELLOW DOPE is a pretty good color match to the SOLARTEX CUB YELLOW FABRIC covering that we used.

Cowling

157.

Position the cowling over the F-1 cross-section on the plan (sheet 1) and mark the location of the center line and thrust line on the outside of the cowl. Then, use a large triangle to transfer the marks to the top of the cowling.


158a.

With a Dremel® tool or hobby knife, cut an opening in the front of the cowling large enough for the engine’s prop shaft and drive washer to fit through. Locate this hole according to the thrust line marks that you made on the cowling in the previous step.

b.

Cut out the two oval shaped air intake holes in the front of the cowling, right below the prop shaft opening. Refer to the fuselage front view plan for the exact size and location.

c.

Cut a 3/4"x1" hole in the "chin" of the cowling where the molded plastic air cleaner will go.

d.

Make any necessary openings in the cowling to fit your particular engine, needle valve, etc.


e.

An opening must be made in the bottom rear of the cowling to allow the engine cooling air to properly flow through and exit the cowling. This is absolutely necessary for proper cooling! Without an adaquete exit air opening, your engine may overheat and quit. There’s an old rule of thumb that says you should have 1-1/2 times are many square inches of exit area than intake area in your cowling. That ratio will keep a constant stream of fresh, cool air moving through the cowling. Inadaquete exit space can cause heated air to be trapped inside the cowl, which can cause overheating and engine failure. This picture shows the size of exit air opening we have at the bottom of our Cub cowlings.

159a.

Cut four 3/8" sq. x5/8" long basswood cowl mount blocks. Epoxy the blocks along the edges of the firewall, two on each side, approximately where shown in the photos and plans.
Note: You can adjust the exact location of the cowl mount blocks to suit your individual engine installation. Just make sure the outsides of the cowl mount blocks end up flush with the outside surface of the model.

b.

Tape the cowling in place on the fuselage. Line it up carefully in final position. Then, drill pilot holes with a 3/64" dia. bit through the cowling and into the cowl mount blocks. Take the cowling off and open up the holes in the cowl large enough to pass the #2 x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws provided. Mount the cowling to the fuselage with the screws.

160.

The fiberglass cowling has a paintable white jellcoat outer service. After sanding it with 360 grit sandpaper, you can paint it with airplane dope or almost any other common epoxy or enamel model airplane paint.

Dummy Engine

A molded ABS plastic scale-like "dummy engine" is provided to make the nose of your Cub look more realistic. The dummy engine is completely cosmetic. It serves no structural or aerodynamic purpose. To use it or not is entirely up to you. We use it on all our Cubs because it adds a lot of realism to the model.


161a.

Cut out the right and left molded plastic dummy engines. The cut lines are molded right into the parts. The best procedure for trimming is to first rough out the parts with a heavy-duty scissors or shears, leaving about 1/8" outside the final cut line. Then, finish the edges by sanding it to final shape, checking the fit of the part to the side of the cowling as you go.

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b. Glue the dummy engines to the sides of the cowling. Study the photos and plans carefully to get the location exactly right.

162.

Cut out the right and left molded plastic dummy engine shrouds. The cut lines are molded right into the parts. Trial fit the shrouds onto the cowl to fine tune the fit of the trimmed edges. When satisfactory, glue the shrouds in place.

163.

Cut out the molded plastic Air Cleaner and glue it in place on the "chin" of the cowling.

Painting The Dummy Engine

CAUTION: Do not try to cover any of the plastic parts with iron-on covering material. The heat can damage the plastic parts.

The molded plastic dummy engine parts are made of ABS plastic, which can be painted with just about any common fuel-proof model airplane paint (dope, enamel, or epoxy). In preparation for painting, all the plastic parts should be lightly sanded to remove as much of the surface gloss from them as possible. Do not use coarse sandpaper which will leave deep scratches in the plastic. Use 360 grit sandpaper or finer.

Color paint can be brushed or sprayed directly on the sanded plastic. Primer type coats are not necessary if a thorough sanding job was done with fine paper. Do not apply heavy, wet coats which can cause an "orange peel" effect. Put on light coats and allow them to dry before applying a second coat.

The dummy engine on our prototype models were painted with 3 basic colors:
  • Glossy Silver - for the cylinder heads.
  • Flat Black - for the top shrouds, the cylinders fins, and for any recessed or shadowy areas.
  • Flat "Steel" - For the exhaust pipes and cylinders. This isn’t a standard model airplane color! You’ll have to mix your own by slowly adding black paint to silver until you get a shade you like. It shouldn’t be too light colored, but must provide adequate contrast with the black painted areas.

Windshield And Side Windows

164.

Cut out the molded clear plastic Left and Right Side Windows. Leave about a 1/16" flange around the windows, as shown in the photo.

165.

Cut out the molded clear plastic Top Window. Cut just outside the 1/8" wide raised "frame" that is molded around the outside of the flat window itself. Lightly sand the frame with 360 or finer grit paper, and then paint it to match your airplane color.

166a.

The molded clear plastic Windshield has a cut line scribed into it. Trim the windshield out on the cut lines. The cut lines will get you close, but you may need to trim a little more as you trial fit the windshield onto the fuselage.

b.

After you’ve finalized the fit of the windshield, mask off the portions of the windshield that simulate the two upper cabin blocks. Sand with 360 or finer grit paper, and then paint.




167.

Glue the Side Windows and Top Window in place with few small drops of Medium CA or use a special "canopy glue" like RC-56™. Do not use CA accelerator on any of the plastic windows – it will fog them!

168.

Glue the Windshield in place. When dry, cover the edges of the Windshield with 1/4" wide plastic stripping tape. This covers over any ugly gaps in the installation and gives it a more finished look. Paint the tape to match the fuselage.

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Tail Brace Wires

169.

Four 2-56 x10" Threaded Steel Rods are provided for the Tail Brace Wires. Cut two of the rods to 8" long (including the threaded portion) for the Top Tail Brace Wires. Cut the other two to 6-7/8" long for the Bottom Tail Brace Wires.










170.

Four 2-56 Steel R/C Links and four Solder Links are provided for the ends of the Tail Brace Wires. Take all eight R/C Links and cut off the side that has the pin in it. Builder’s Tip: A Dremel tool with an abrasive cut-off wheel works best for this.)

171.

Screw a 2-56 Hex Nut, followed by one of the modified 2-56 R/C Links on the threaded end of each Tail Brace Wire. Solder the modified Solder Links onto the other end of each Tail Brace Wire.

172.

Fit the wires to the model. Bend the ends of the links as needed to make them fit flat against the model surface. Use 1-72 x1/2" Rd.Hd. Brass Bolts and Hex Nuts to bolt the links to the stab and fin. Use two #2 x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws to hold the lower end of the Bottom Tail Brace Wires to the plywood tailwheel mount.

173.

Adjust all the threaded links until the Tail Brace Wires are snug, but not pulling the tail surfaces out of shape. Then, screw the hex nuts against the links to keep them from coming loose.

Radio Installation - Ailerons

The aileron servos and extension chords were installed earlier, before covering the wing. All that’s left is to hinge the ailerons to the wing and make the aileron pushrods.

174.

Use four SIG Easy Hinges to hinge each aileron its wing panel. Use the same procedures you did in the section "Attaching The Tail Surfaces" earlier. The aileron hinges should be installed in the 3/32" balsa top sheeting of the wing and aileron (see wing cross-section drawing on the plan).

175.

Screw a Nylon R/C Link onto the threaded end of a 2-56 x10" Threaded Steel Rod. Screw it on until it’s halfway up the threads. Then, hook the Nylon R/C Link up to the control horn in the aileron. Fasten a Solder Link to the aileron servo arm. Center the aileron servo in neutral position. Tape the aileron itself to the wing in neutral position. Now, hold the pushrod up against the Solder Link and mark where the pushrod should be cut off. Cut off the pushrods, remove the Solder Link from the servo arm, and solder the link to the end of the pushrod. Let cool, then hook the pushrod back up and make final adjustment of the pushrod length to achieve neutral position. Repeat steps to make the opposite aileron pushrod.

Elevator

176.

Mount the elevator servo in the plywood servo tray in the fuselage.

177.

Locate the .130 x36" Nylon Elevator Pushrod Tube, two 2-56 x10" Threaded Steel Rods, a Solder Link, and a Nylon R/C link.

178.

Cut one of the threaded rods to 1-3/4" long (including the threaded portion). Solder a Solder Link on the unthreaded end of the wire. Screw the threaded end of the wire into the one end of the nylon tube. Try to get all of the threads screwed inside the end of the tube. This will be the servo end of the elevator pushrod.

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179. Slide the unfinished end of the pushrod through the Elevator Pushrod Sleeve that is already in the fuselage. Slide it in from the servo end. Slide it in until you can hook the Solder Link in the elevator servo arm.

180.

At the elevator end, cut off the excess nylon pushrod tube, leaving 2-1/2" of tube sticking out of the fuselage side.

181.

Mount the Medium Nylon Control Horn in place on the bottom of the elevator with two #2 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws. Make sure the horn lines up with the end of the elevator pushrod tube.

182.

Cut a 2-56 x10" Threaded Steel Rod to 3-1/8" long (including the threaded portion). Smooth the cut end of the rod and insert it into the end of the elevator pushrod tube. When you get to the threads, screw it in until half of the threads are inside the tube and half are outside. Next, thread a Nylon R/C Link onto the exposed threads, roughly centering it on the threads. Center the elevator servo and elevator in neutral position. Then, adjust the Nylon R/C Link until it can be snapped into the control horn.

Rudder

183.

Locate the parts bag for the rudder pull-pull system. Cut the .021" dia. x6 ft. Steel Cable provided into two 3 ft. long pieces. Cut the 1/8" dia. x2" piece of Heat-Shrink Tubing into four 1/2" long pieces.

184.

Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the end of one of the 3 ft. cables, followed by one of the 1/2" long Aluminum Tubes provided. Then, thread the end of the cable through the outermost hole in the rudder servo output arm, giving yourself about 4" - 5" to work with. Make a half loop out of the servo arm and run the short end of the cable back through the aluminum tube. Pull the tube up to the servo arm, about 1/2" away from it. Take the short end of the cable and loop it back around and through the aluminum tubing again, pulling it tight. Use a pliers or a crimping tool to squeeze the aluminum tube tightly onto the cable, locking it in place. Cut off the excess short end of the cable. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the aluminum tube and use heat to shrink it in place. Now, repeat the steps to install the other 3 ft. cable in the opposite servo arm hole.


185.

Slide a 36" length of thin music wire (not supplied) through the rudder exit guide at the back of the fuselage, then, forward through the fuselage and out the door opening. Tape the unfinished end of the pull-pull cable onto the end of the music wire and then, carefully pull the cable through the fuselage and out the exit guide. Repeat to bring the other rudder pull-pull cable out on the other side of the fuselage.

186.

Mount the rudder servo in the plywood servo tray in the fuselage. Center the rudder servo with the radio system. Temporarily tape the rudder in neutral position.


187.

Locate the two Rigging Couplers, two 2-56 Hex Nuts, and two 2-56 Steel R/C Links. Screw a Hex Nut, followed by an R/C Link, onto the threaded end of each Rigging Coupler. Screw them halfway up the threads. Clip these Rigging Coupler assemblies into the outermost holes on each side of the rudder horn.

188.

Working on one side of the fuselage at a time, slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing on unfinished the end of the pull-pull cable, followed by an aluminum tube. Then, stick the end of the cable through the small hole in the end of the threaded Rigging Coupler, giving yourself about 4" - 5" to work with. Make a half loop out the rigging coupler and run the short end of the cable back through the aluminum tube. Pull the slack out of the cable as you slide the aluminum tube up to the rigging coupler, about 1/2" away from it. Take the short end of the cable and loop it back around and through the aluminum tubing again, pulling it tight. Use a pliers or a crimping tool to squeeze the aluminum tube tightly over the cable in two places, locking it in place. Cut off the excess short end of the cable. Slide the heat-shrink tube over the aluminum tube and shrink it in place. Repeat this process with the remaining cable on the opposite side of the rudder.

189.

Now, with the rudder still taped in neutral, adjust the R/C links at the rudder horn to approximately the same mild tension - do not pull the cables too tight. Remove the tape holding the rudder in place, plug the rudder servo into your airborne system, turn on the transmitter and test the movement and centering of the rudder. Adjust as needed. When satisfied, tighten the hex nuts up against the end of the R/C links to lock the links in place.

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Receiver And Battery Pack

The single heaviest unit of the radio system is the of course battery pack. This means that you can, if needed, locate the batteries wherever they are required in the airplane to help achieve the correct balance point. Be sure to wrap the battery pack and the receiver in foam rubber and use rubber bands or tie-wraps to secure to the model structure so that it can’t move around in flight. The receiver switch can be mounted internally or externally in the fuselage side (like we did).

Radio Check

Turn the radio system on and check the functions of all the controls. Make sure they are moving in the right direction! Thousands of R/C airplanes have crashed over the years because the servos were moving the wrong way! Also, make sure all the servos are centered and working perfectly, without any binding. Correct any such problems now. With everything checked and working, now is the time to set the initial control movements.

Control Movements
After flying your Cub for awhile, getting used to its characteristics, you will likely change the control throws to suit your style of flying. But you have to start somewhere and this is where you begin.

Remember: Control surface movements should always be measured at the widest point of the control surface.

SurfaceSuggested Throw
AILERONS3/4" UP and 1/2" DOWN
ELEVATORS1" UP and 1" DOWN
RUDDER1-3/4" RIGHT and 1-3/4" LEFT

Steerable Tailwheel Unit

190.

Push the bottom end of the Formed Leaf Spring inside the molded Nylon Tailwheel Bearing. Bolt securely with the 4-40 x3/8" Rd.Hd. Bolts and the 4-40 Lock Nuts provided.


191.

Prepare the Formed Tailwheel Wire for installation by first grinding or filing any burrs from both ends of the wire. Next, clamp the entire bottom fork of the tailwheel wire in a vice and bend the top shaft backward slightly, so that when installed the tailwheel will be swept back slightly as shown in the full-size side-view plan.

192.

Solder a #2 Flat Metal Washer just above the top bend of the Formed Tailwheel Wire. The purpose of this washer is to keep the wire from riding up too high into the Nylon Tailwheel Bearing and causing a bind. A second #2 Flat Metal Washer is provided to solder onto the axle portion of the tailwheel wire to keep the tailwheel itself from binding against the bend of the wire.

193.

Install a 1" diameter Tailwheel (not furnished) on the axle. Solder another #2 Flat Metal Washer on the axle to hold the tailwheel in place.

194.

Insert the 3/32" Wheel Collar into the round cavity in the bottom of the molded Nylon Steering Arm. Align the set screw hole in the wheel collar with the hole into the steering arm. Install the 4-40 x3/16" Rd.Hd. Bolt through the steering arm hole, threading it into the wheel collar.

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195. Insert the top of the Formed Tailwheel Wire through the Nylon Tailwheel Bearing and secure in place with the Steering Arm. File or grind a flat spot on the wire where the set screw will make contact.

196.

The two tailwheel Steering Springs can now be installed, connecting the tailwheel Steering Arm to the Rudder Horn. Use needle nose pliers to make a loop in one end of the spring to hook into the outermost hole on the back edge of the rudder horn. With the rudder and tailwheel both in neutral position, apply a small amount of tension to the spring and use the pliers to make a 90 deg. bend at the outermost hole in the tailwheel steering arm. Insert the wire into the steering arm and make another 90 deg. bend back toward the center of the spring, forming a loop. Do the same for the other spring. Do not over stretch the springs when doing this. A little bit of tension is all you need. Turn on your radio system to check the movement of the rudder and tailwheel. If there is binding, correct it. The springs should center the tailwheel to the rudder when it is at neutral.

Fuel Tank

A 12 oz. Du-Bro fuel tank (not supplied) is recommended for the Cub. Assemble the fuel tank per the tank manufacturer’s instructions, with one vent line and one feed line. Attach a length of heat-proof silicone fuel line (not supplied) to the tank tubes. Label the fuel lines "carb" and "vent", so you can tell them apart after the tank is place. Working through the cabin door, insert the fuel lines through the firewall as you slide the tank in place. Use scrap balsa or a couple dabs of silicone caulk to secure the tank to some part of the fuselage structure, so the tank can’t move around in flight.

A REMOTE FUELING VALVE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! With a scale cowling, it is sometimes difficult to reach the fuel lines for fueling and de-fueling the airplane at the field. Du-Bro makes a very handy Kwik-Fill Fueling Valve (part DUB334, for glow fuel only) that solves this problem in the easiest way. We highly recommend that you purchase a Du-Bro 334 Fueling Valve, or equivalent, and install it in your Cub.

In this Cub kit we have included a formed Aluminum Fueler Mount (shaped like an "L") that we use to mount the Du-Bro Fueling Valve to the firewall. It has a 3/8" dia. hole on one leg and two mounting holes in the other.


Determine a good location for the fueling valve and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill pilot holes with a 3/64" bit, and mount the bracket with two #2 x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws. Mount the Du-Bro Fueling Valve in the 3/8" hole and then, follow the instructions on the Du-Bro package to hook up the fuel lines properly.

Throttle Pushrod

The throttle pushrod supplied in this Cub kit is the "flex-cable" variety, consisting of a 1/16" od steel cable running inside a nylon tubing sleeve. At each end of the pushrod cable is an adjustable "pushrod connector".


197.

With the engine and fuel tank in place, slide the .130" od Nylon Tube for the throttle pushrod sleeve through the hole in the firewall. Route it along the side of the tank back to the throttle servo. You will need to make and install a support for the servo end of the sleeve out of scrap balsa or plywood. The support should be permanently glued to the model structure and it should aim the sleeve right at the throttle servo control arm. Glue the sleeve, with the end of the sleeve about 1" short of the servo arm.

198.

At the front, glue the throttle pushrod sleeve to the firewall. Cut the sleeve about 1" short of the carb throttle arm.

199.

Install the pushrod connectors on each end of the pushrod, and adjust the length of the pushrod to get full throttle movement.

Self-Adhesive Decals

The decals provided in this kit are made of adhesive-backed mylar, they are NOT water activated transfers. These decals are not diecut and need to be cut from their sheets with a sharp #11 blade or good pair of scissors. Trim as close to the image as possible.

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Putting sticky-back decals on a model can be tricky! Especially medium to large size ones like those in this kit. If you don’t do it right, you will end up with unsightly air bubbles trapped underneath the decal. Here’s a method that eliminates that problem entirely and makes the job easy and fun.

You will need a "soapy water" mixture (water mixed with a very small amount of dish soap, or SIG Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner, or Fantastic®, Windex®, or 409® type cleaners all work good). You will also need a supple squeegee (the SIG 4" Epoxy Spreader SIGSH678 is perfect for this job), a couple clean soft cloths (old tee shirts are great), a good straight edge, a ruler, and a hobby knife with sharp #11 blades. We also suggest that you have some trim tape handy for making temporary guidelines (1/8" width or so is perfect) for help in aligning the decals.

First, spray the surface of the model where the decal is to be placed with a soapy water mixture. Then, peel the backing sheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the sticky side double over and adhere to itself. Place the decal onto the wet surface of the model. Do not push down! The soapy water solution will keep the decal from actually sticking to the model until you have had time to shift it around into exact position. Once you have it in position, squeegee the excess soapy water out from under the decal. Mop up the water with a dry cloth. Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the water out from under the decal as possible. After setting overnight, the decal will be solidly adhered to the surface.

Instrument Panel

A full-color printed paper Piper J-3 Cub instrument panel is included in this kit. Simply cut it out with a sharp scissors and use spray cement to glue it in place.

Balance Your Cub

Completely assemble the model, including propeller and spinner nut. Do not leave anything off the airplane that will be on it in flight. DO NOT fill the fuel tank for balancing purposes.

RECOMMENDED BALANCE POINT 3-1/2" back from the leading edge of the wing

IMPORTANT NOTE: Balanced means the airplane sets level when supported at the desired balance point, not slightly nose down or nose up.


FLYING

The Cub is not difficult to manage on the ground or in the air. However, being a taildragger, there are some differences you should be aware of between flying the Cub and flying most trainer or pattern type models. It handles more like a full size airplane than most models.
When taxing the Cub on the ground, be prepared to use the elevators and ailerons in addition to the obvious rudder steering and throttle inputs. When the winds are calm, hold full up elevator while taxiing in any direction, to keep the tailwheel in firm contact with the ground for effective steering. Leave the ailerons in neutral, steer with the rudder, and control ground speed with the throttle. Under windy conditions, also hold up elevator when taxiing either upwind or crosswind. When going downwind, put the elevators in neutral or partly down to keep the wind from getting under the tail and flipping the Cub on its nose. Aileron deflection may also be needed while taxiing crosswind to keep the upwind wing from lifting off the ground.

Line up the Cub on the middle of the runway for takeoff. If you haven’t had much taildragger time, it’s best to stand directly behind the model so you can easily see any changes in heading that will need to be corrected during the takeoff run. Leave the elevator in neutral. Advance the throttle smoothly to full open. As the tail lifts up on its own, the Cub will try to drift to the left from the torque. Feed in right rudder as needed to keep the model straight. When you have flying speed, pull back slightly on the elevator stick for a gentle liftoff. During the takeoff run, do not overcontrol the rudder, which will start the Cub swerving from side to side. If you find yourself in that situation, pull back on the throttle back to low and get the model stopped. Taxi back and start over. Never try to hurry the model off the ground by pulling full up elevator just because the model isn’t going straight! The damage from a premature snap roll on takeoff would be much more severe than anything that could happen on the ground.

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In the air, you’ll find the Cub stable, yet responsive. With practice, it is capable of doing basic maneuvers such as inside loops, barrel rolls, and spins. After you’ve had a chance to get the model all trimmed out, practice making your turns by coordinating rudder commands in with the ailerons, as is done in a full size airplane. Proper coordination of the rudder with the ailerons will make for a smoother, more graceful turn.

Landing the Cub straight into the wind or under calm conditions is pretty much like landing any other model. Be careful not to let the nose get too high during banks with power off. Either wheel landings or three-point landings can be made with the Cub. Just remember to fly the model even after it touches down. Once the tailwheel gets back on the ground, you’ll have good steering and the model will slow down fast.

If there is any amount of crosswind, even quartering, landing the Cub becomes a little tricker. Proper coordination of the ailerons and the rudder is again needed to maintain your heading. After the model is turned onto final approach, use the rudder to hold the model on a straight heading with the runway and feed in aileron to correct any drifting to the side. For example, with a crosswind from the left, you’ll need to hold a little right rudder to correct any "crab" angle and put in left aileron to keep the model from drifting to the right.

If all these hints make it sound as if the Cub is difficult to fly, it really isn’t! The Cub can be safely flown by anyone who is capable of handling a multi-channel model. Once you get a few Cub flights under your belt, you’ll find rudder/aileron coordinated flying becoming second nature and you’ll be a better pilot with all types of models.

GOOD FLYING!

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys! Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to ground test the finished model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a safe manner. The first test flights should only be made by an experienced R/C flyer, familiar with high performance R/C aircraft.

The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, commonly called the AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe operation of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not necessarily mandatory, it is required by most R/C flying clubs in the U.S. and provides you with important liability insurance in case your R/C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. For more information, contact:
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Telephone: (317) 287-1256

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Customer Service

SIG MFG. CO. is totally committed to your success in both building and flying the ANNIVERSARY CUB design. Should you encounter any problem building this kit, or discover any missing or damaged parts, please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.


SIG MFG. CO., INC.
401-7 South Front Street
Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
SIG MODELER S ORDERLINE: (to order parts)1-800-247-5008
SIG MODELER S HOTLINE (for technical support)1-641-623-0215
SIG WEB SITEwww.sigmfg.com








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SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

LIMIT OF LIABILITY: The craftsmanship, attention to detail and actions of the builder/flyer of this model airplane kit will ultimately determine the airworthiness, flight performance and safety of the finished model. SIG MFG. CO's obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.