ANNIVERSARY CUB RC82 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION

Fuselage Sub-Assemblies

1a.

Mark the vertical centerline and thrust line on the F-1 firewall using the plan cross-section and tick marks on the firewall.

b.

Check the width of your engine and determine the spacing needed between the motor mounts. Using the lines on the firewall, locate the mounts and mark the location of the four mounting holes on the firewall. Drill a 11/64" hole at each mark.

c.

Bolt the engine mounts loosely to the firewall with four 6-32 x3/4" bolts and 6-32 blind nuts. Double check the location and spacing of the mounts. Tighten the bolts until the prongs of the blind nuts are started in the wood and holding. Remove the motor mounts from the firewall and seat the blind nuts with a hammer.

d.

Lay former F-1A (sheet10) on the backside of the firewall and mark and cut out around the top two blind nuts. Then glue it to the back of the firewall. Apply Thick CA or epoxy over the blind nuts to hold them in place. Be careful not to get any glue in the threads of the blind nuts.




2a.

Mount the engine mounts back onto the firewall. Using the side view plan as a guide, locate the engine on the mounts so the propeller will clear the front of the cowl by 1/8". Carefully mark the location of the engine mounting holes onto the mounts.




b.

Remove the engine mounts from the firewall for drilling of the clearance holes for your engine mounting bolts. Itís best to lock the mount in a vise and drill the holes with a drill press, if you have access to one. Note: Because some .40-.46 engines use 4-40 mounting bolts and some use 6-32 bolts, we do not supply the bolts and lock nuts for mounting your engine to the mounts.

c.

Next, bolt the engine mounts back onto the firewall, and then the engine to the mounts. Assemble one of the supplied Pushrod Connector assemblies in the engineís throttle arm. Now determine the best location for the throttle pushrod to pass through the firewall and line up with the pushrod connector. (in the case of the Irvine .46 in the photo, that spot is right above the leg of the engine mount - yourís may be a little different). Once determined, mark the location and drill a 9/64" dia. hole through the firewall for the pushrod.

3a.

Glue the tailwheel mount (sheet.26) to the balsa fuselage bottom rear (sheet 19).

b.

Draw a center line on the fuselage bottom rear and mark the location of the mounting holes for the tailwheel leaf-spring. Drill the holes with a 5/32" bit. Mount the leafspring to the fuselage with the 6-32 x1/2" machine screws and square nuts provided.


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c. Epoxy the square nuts firmly in place being careful not to get any glue on the machine screws. When dry, remove the leafspring.

4.

Locate former F-5A (sheet 10) and former F-6A (sheet 23). Using the cross-sections on the plans as a guide, glue the 1/8"x1/4" balsa stiffeners to the back of the two formers.

5.

Remove the right fuselage side and tail mount from sheet 16, and glue them together as shown. Do the same for the left fuselage side and tail mount, which are in sheet 17.

6.

Remove the servo tray and the two servo tray doublers from sheet 27. Glue the doublers in place on the servo tray.Make sure that the end of the doubler does not stick out beyond the edge of the tray.




7.

Now is a good time to mount your servos in the servo tray. Position the servos in the tray as shown and pre-drill the mounting holes.

8.

Locate the three window braces (sheet 2). Compare the length of the three braces - two the same and one is different in length. The longer one is glued in the front notch on the left fuselage side at the front notch and the shorter one is glued in the back notch. The other short brace is glued in the rear notch of the right fuselage side. Be sure to glue these braces to the INSIDE of the fuselage sides.

9.

Locate the two 3/8"x3/4"x4-15/16" grooved hardwood landing gear blocks and the two gear doublers (sheet 27). Glue one doubler to the top of each grooved block.





Basic Fuselage Assembly

10a.

Match up fuselage formers F-4, F-5, and F-6 to their crosssection drawings on the plans, and then mark "top front" on these formers. This will help you keep the orientation of these formers correct when placing them in the fuselage during the next step, which will result in the holes for the elevator pushrod being in the correct location on the left side of the fuselage.


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b. Assemble fuselage formers F-1, F-3, F-4, F-5, F-6, F-7, the Servo Tray, and Tank Floor in place between the fuselage sides. Add the Fuselage Top Rear, Fuselage Bottom Rear, Cabin Floor Rear, Cabin Floor Front, Nose Top, and Stab Mount between the fuselage sides. Use masking tape at each former to help hold everything in place.

c.

Carefully eyeball the alignment of the fuselage. It should be very close to perfect, thanks to the accuracty of laser-cut parts. If there are any persistent twists, now is the time to figure out whatís causing it and fix it. Once the fuselage is glued, it canít be realigned. Double check that the opening at the back end of the fuselage is square with the fuselage top. If necessary, gently twist or push the parts in the desired direction and use masking tape to hold them there.

11.

When satisfied that everything is lined up properly, start gluing all the parts in place with Thin CA, working from the inside of the fuselage first. Start with small applications of glue in the corners, checking the fuselage alignment as you go. Keep applying glue until the complete inside of the fuselage has been gone over once. Now go back and glue all joints with MEDIUM CA. Leave the tape in place until all of the glue has dried.
Note: We do not recommend gluing the F-1 Firewall with CA glue. Use epoxy.

12.

Once youíve got the firewall glued in, cut two 4" long pieces of 1/2" balsa Triangle stock and glue in the corners behind the firewall, for reinforcement. Make sure to locate the triangles on the topside of the lite-ply Nose Bottom.

13a.

Now is a good time to assemble your fuel tank and figure out how youíre going to mount it in the fuselage. We recommend using blocks of scrap balsa or foam to block the tank in position. Note: If the recommended fuel tank is used (Du-Bro 12 oz.), you can do a trial installation now and then remove the tank for final installation after the airplane is covered.

b.

Remove the fuel tank and dry fit a .130" od nylon tube for the throttle pushrod through the hole in the firewall and back to the servo area. Slide the fuel tank back in position, then insert the 1/16" od steel cable inside the nylon tube and check for the movement. Correct any binding problems now, as it will be hard to get to this area later on.

14.

Glue the Nose Top (sheet 2) in place on the fuselage. You will need to tuck it under the F-1A former and slide it up to the back of the firewall.

15.

Cut the door loose from the Right Fuselage Side. Set it aside until needed later.



16.

Locate the Right and Left Cabin Windows (sheet 21) and parts CR-1A (sheet 15). Glue a CR-1A on the inside (right side) of Left Cabin Window, and one on the inside (left side) of the Right Cabin Window.

17.

The following steps a, b, and c should be done without glue! The gluing will come in step d.



a.

Tape the Right and Left Cabin Windows securely to the sides of former F-3. Then tape former F-4A in place at the rear of the Cabin Windows.

b.

Cut two 5" long pieces of 1/4" sq. balsa and two 5" long pieces of 3/16" sq. balsa. Slide one of the 1/4" sq. pieces in the bottom front notches of the cabin windows, spanning from one cabin window to the other. Likewise, insert one of the 3/16" sq. pieces in the bottom rear notches cabin windows. Next, put the plywood Center-Section Web (sheet 27) in place on top of the 1/4" sq. Put the balsa Rear Center Web (sheet 10) in on top of the 3/16" sq. Now insert the two CR-2 ribs (sheet 1) in place over the front and rear webs and into formers F-3 and F-4A. You will need to untape F-3 and F-4A to do this - when done, tape all the parts securely back together.

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c. Put in the remaining 3/16" sq. and 1/4" sq. pieces in their respective notches. Also, cut two 5" long pieces of 1/8"x1/4" balsa, and insert them in the upper and lower notches in the rear of the ribs. Also, install the Hatch Mounts (sheet 26).

d.

Now, you can glue all the parts in the cabin area together with Thin CA. Be sure all the joints are tight when applying the glue. Itís critical that the cabin windows are tight against former F-3, the spar webs, and the window braces, as this will set the dihedral angle in the wings. When everything is glued and dry, you can cut loose the right side window.

18

Carefully cut the "Door Window" portion of the Right Cabin Window loose. Set aside until needed later.

19a.

Locate former F-2 (sheet10) and the F-2 Angle Guide (sheet 20). Glue former F-2 in place on the nose top, using the angle guide to set the proper angle.








b.

Cut five pieces of 1/8"x1/4" balsa stick to use as stringers to run between formers F-1A and F-2. It is best to glue in the center stringer first, using the F-2 angle guide to make sure former F-2 stays in proper alignment. Then glue in the other four stringers.

20a.

Cut the Right Fuselage Doubler, Left Fuselage Doubler, and Door Doubler loose from laser-cut balsa sheet 18. Set these parts aside for a moment.

b.

Before you can glue the Fuselage Doublers onto the outside of the fuselage, you need to sand flush any former "tabs" that may be sticking out beyond the fuselage sides.

c.

Now, glue the Left and Right Fuselage Doublers in place on the fuselage.

21a.

Carefully cut the Right Window Doubler, Left Window Doubler, and Door Window Doubler loose from laser-cut balsa sheet 23. Handle these parts very carefully as they are easy to break at this point.

b.

Glue the Left and Right Window Doublers in place on the fuselage.

22a.

Retrieve the Door that you cut loose from the Right Fuselage Side back in step 15, and the Door Doubler from step 20. Glue these two parts together, making sure they are flush along their bottom edges.

b.

Retrieve the Door Window that you cut loose from the Right Cabin Window back in step 18, and the Door Window Doubler from step 21. Glue these two parts together, making sure they are flush along their top edges.

23.

Cut two 3/32"x3"x4-1/2" pieces of balsa from one of the 36" long sheets provided. These are for sheeting over the top of the nose from F-1 to F-2. Once you have the sheets cut, glue them on edge against the top edges of the fuselage doublers. Let dry. Then bend the sheets over the top, gluing them to the stringers and formers. Trim the two sheets where they meet over the center stringer.

When dry, sand the ends of the sheeting flush with the front of the F-1 firewall and flush with the back of F-2. Builderís Tip: If you having difficulty bending the balsa sheeting without splitting, dampen the outer surface of the balsa with water or alcohol to make it bend easier.

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Removable Cabin Hatch

The top portion of the fuselage cabin sheeting (the area between the 3/16" sq. and 1/4" sq. balsa pieces that were installed in step 17b.) will be removable so that you will have easy top access to the wing mounting hardware.

24.

Locate the two Cabin Top Sheeting pieces (sheet 10). The wider of the two should be permanently glued to the top of the CR-2 ribs and up against the front of former F-4A. Then, glue the narrower sheet onto the ribs right in front of the first sheet. When dry, sand the the edges of the balsa sheets flush with the plywood cabin windows.

25a.

Locate the Top Front and Top Rear pieces for the cabin hatch sheeting (sheet 10). Glue the two pieces together along their interlocking edges.


b.

Locate the Window Front, Window Rear, and two Window Frame pieces (sheet 10). Glue these four pieces onto the cabin hatch sheeting, lining them up along the edges of the window opening. These pieces form the window frame.

c.

Scale-like window bracing is made out of a 1/8"x6" hardwood dowel. Cut the dowel in half and install the two halves into the slots in the side Window Frames and the Window Front. Mark and cut off the dowels flush with the outer surfaces of the window frame.

26.

Glue the two Cabin Hatch Hardpoints in place on the bottom of the hatch sheeting, centered over the holes that are already there.

27.

Cut a 1/2" long piece of 1/8" dowel and glue it in the hole in the front of the window frame, leaving about 3/8" of dowel sticking out the front. Now slide the 1/8" plywood Hatch Dowel Support (sheet 26) over the dowel and up against the window frame, then glue it in place.

Builder's Tip:
Use the 4-40 x3/8" socket-head Nylon Bolts to keep the hardpoints lined up with the holes in the sheeting while you are gluing the hardpoints in place. Don't get any glue on the bolts.

28a.

Trail fit the hatch on the fuselage, inserting the dowel at the front into the hole in the plywood Center-Section Web. NOTE: You may have to sand a small amount off the back of the hatch sheeting to make it fit flush with the sheeting that is on the fuselage. Also, allow a little extra room for the thickness of the covering material that you are going to use.




b.

When satisfied with the fit, tape the hatch in place and mark the holes for the mounting bolts (4-40 x3/8" socket-head) onto the Hatch Mounts in the fuselage. Drill the holes with a 9/64" bit and glue 4-40 blind nuts in the bottom of the Hatch Mounts.

Completing The Fuselage

29a.

Slide one end of the Phenolic Tube into one side of the cabin center section. Push it in until the end is flush with the inside of nearest CR-2 rib. Mark the tube to be cut off flush with the outside of the cabin. Use a razor saw to cut the tube at the mark. Repeat the process to cut another phenolic tube for the other side of the cabin. Note: Be sure you are cutting the Phenolic not the Aluminum Tube!

b.

Glue the phenolic tubes in place in the holes. When dry, sand the outside ends of the tubes flush with the window frame.

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30a. Glue the two hardwood Landing Gear Blocks into the bottom of the fuselage.

b.

Cut 2 pieces of 1/2" balsa triangle stock to 4-11/16" long. Glue them in place in the fuselage at the front and rear of the front Landing Gear Block, to reinforce it to the bottom of the fuselage.

c.

Cut another piece of 1/2" balsa triangle stock to 4-9/16" long and glue it in at the back of the rear Landing Gear Block.

31a.

Glue formers F-5A (sheet 10) and F-6A (sheet #23) in place on the top of the fuselage. Make sure you glue F-5A and F-6A in parallel with the formers F-5 and F-6 formers below them, NOT perpendicular to the top sheet.

b.

Locate the 1/8"x1/4"x24" spruce Top Stringer. Using the side view plan as your guide, taper the front of the Top Stringer to fit on top of the cabin sheeting. Then, glue the Top Stringer in place.

c.

The fuselage Top Corner Stringers are 1/8"x1/4"x48" balsa. Measure and cut them to length, and then glue them in the notches of the formers.

d.

Sand all stringers flush with the rear face of former F-7.



32a.

Glue the Elevator Exit Guide (sheet 23) in place on the left side of the fuselage. Be sure to line up the slots carefully.

b.

Glue the Rudder Exit Guides (sheet 23) in place on each side of the fuselage. Again, Be sure to line up the slots carefully.

33a.

Locate one of the .130" od x36" Nylon Tubes provided. Cut two 4" long pieces off one end of the tube (save the remainder for the Throttle Pushrod). These 4" tubes will be installed in the fuselage as guides for the rudder pull-pull cables. Use a heat gun to soften the tube enough to allow you to bend a slight radius in it, as shown in the picture. Hold until the tube cools.

b.

Slide the tubes in the slots of the Rudder Exit Guides and check the radius of the bend. The bend is to allow the tubes to have a straight shot to the rudder servo area in the forward part of the fuselage. If necessary, re-heat the tubes and correct the bend. Then, glue the tubes in place in the Rudder Exit Guides. They should stick out past the F-7 former 3/8".

34a.

Locate the .190" od x36" Nylon Tube provided for the Elevator Pushrod Sleeve. Starting at the rear Elevator Exit Guide, slide the tube into the fuselage, guiding it into the formers. Leave 1/4" of tube sticking out past the front of F-4 former.

b.

Locate the .130" od x36" Nylon Tube provided for the Elevator Pushrod. Slide the tube inside the Elevator Pushrod Sleeve. It should slide all the way in easily without any binding. If there is binding, now is the time to pinpoint the cause and fix it.


c.

Glue the outer Elevator Pushrod Sleeve to the Elevator Exit Guide with CA glue. Then, glue the sleeve securely to each former.

d.

Use a single-edge razor blade to trim the outer elevator pushrod sleeve and the rudder exit tubes flush with the outside of the fuselage.

35.

Glue two 3/32"x1/4" balsa Side Stringers in place on each side of the fuselage. Study the plan side view and the cross section drawings to determine exactly where the Side Stringers should be located. The upper Side Stringer is glued along the entire top edge of the main frame, starting at the doubler in the front, and going all the way to the tail end of the fuselage.

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The lower Side Stringer goes in a straight line from the notch in the doubler, back to the tail end of the fuselage.
Builderís Tip:
Crooked stringers look bad! Itís best to hold a straight edge alongside the stringer as you tack glue it to the fuselage. Then, remove the straight edge and finish gluing the entire stringer in place.

36.

Cut the two 3/32"x3/32"x36" balsa sticks provided to 32" long for the bottom Corner Stringers (save the remainder for the wing). Glue one stringer on each side of the fuselage right along the bottom edge.

37.

Glue the two pieces of 3/32"x1/2" scrap balsa just ahead of former F-7.

38a.

Sand the front of the Side Stringers flush with the fuselage doublers.

b.

Taper the rear of the Side and Corner Stringers from full width at former F-7 down to nothing at the rudder post.




39.

The fuselage is now ready for final sanding. Use a sanding block with 80 grit paper to sand smooth all the exterior glue joints. Block sand the exterior corners using the cross-sections on the plans as a guide. After sanding with the block, go over the entire fuselage with hand-held 220 grit paper.


40.

Two 1/8" od x 6" hardwood dowels are provided to simulate the diagonal cross braces that run from the corners of the instrument panel up to the center of the wing spar on a full-scale Piper J-3 Cub. Cut the dowels to length, bevel the ends to fit, and then glue them in place. Refer to the front view plan.

Door And Window Latch


41a.

Locate the .130" od x28" nylon tube left over from step 32. Cut a 1/4" piece off one end and glue that piece in the hole in the door. Make sure it is flush with the outside of the door.

b.

Locate a 2-56 x10" threaded rod. Cut the rod to 1-3/4" long, including the threaded end. Slide the plain end of the rod thru the nylon tube that you glued in the door. Slide it thru until the threads are right up against the nylon tube. Then, on the other side of the door, mark the plain end of the rod flush with the side of the door.

42.

Remove the rod from the door and solder a #2 flat metal washer to the rod at the mark. Builderís Tip: The best way to do this is to slide a short piece of heat-proof silicone fuel tubing over the wire to hold the washer in place on the wire and to prevent the solder from seeping onto the other side of the washer.



43.

After the wire cools, bend the unthreaded part of the wire 90 degrees to form a handle.

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44. Screw the threaded end of the wire into the nylon tube from the outside of the door. Screw it in until the threaded portion goes completely thru the tube and the soldered washer is up against the outside of the door. Now place another #2 flat metal washer on the opposite side of the door and screw on a 2-56 hex nut.


45.

Locate the plywood Latch Pivot (sheet 26), the formed Front Door Lock and Rear Door Lock wires, and two 1/4" od black Nylon Retainers. Install the bent ends of the two wires in the outer holes of the Latch Pivot. Use a pair of pliers to press on the Nylon Retainers.

46a.

Mount the latch assembly to the door handle with another #2 flat metal washer and 2-56 hex nut. (Pay attention to the length of the two wires - the longer one goes to the back of the door and the shorter one goes to the front.)

b.

Cut two 1/2" long pieces of the .130" od nylon tube. Slide these tubes over the lock wires and turn the latch in the lock position (wires out). Position the nylon tubes near the edges of the door, as shown on the side view plan. Tack glue the nylon tubes in place on the door.

47.

Locate the two Molded Nylon Hinges and four Straight Pins. Cut the two hinges in half to make four hinges. Assemble the four hinges with the pins, as shown. Cut the excess length of the pins off with a sharp side-cutting pliers.

48.

Hinge the Door to the fuselage with two of the hinge assemblies from the previous step. Refer to the side view plan for the exact hinge locations. Note that the hinge slots should be cut in the outer 3/32" balsa doublers - don't try to cut them in the glue line. You will also need to countersink the knuckle of the hinge into the bottom edge of the door, so that you don't end up with a big hinge gap.





49.

DO NOT glue the hinges in the wood at this time - wait until after covering.

Cut one 1/2" long piece and one 1/4" long piece of the .130" od nylon tube. With the door hinged on the fuselage, and the latch in the lock position (wires out), slide the 1/2" tube over the front lock wire and then tack glue it to the inside wall of the fuselage. Slide the 1/4" over the rear lock wire and tack it in place. Double check that the latch works successfully. Then, go back and reglue the four nylon tubes with a bead of Medium CA. Be careful not to get any glue inside the tubes.

50a.

Hinge the Door Window to the fuselage in the same manner you did the door in step 46. Note that the hinge slots in the Door Window should be cut between the plywood and the balsa. Countersink the knuckle of the hinges into the top edge of the window, so that you don't end up with a big hinge gap. You will also need to cut a little more off the width of the rear hinge in order for it to match the width of the rear post. DO NOT glue the hinges into the Door Window at this time - wait until after covering.

b.

For the top half of the Door Window hinges, simply cut a notch thru the balsa window doubler on the fuselage, so that the top half of the hinge will lay flat on the plywood rib. Go ahead and glue the top of the hinges to the plywood rib at this time. You want them to be covered over with the covering material later.



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Stabilizer And Elevator

60a.

Tape or pin the stabilizer/elevator plan down on a flat building board. Cover with wax paper or plastic wrap. Locate parts S-1, S-4, S-5, S-6 (sheet 13), and parts S-2, S-3 (sheet 14). Glue and pin these parts together over the plan.


b.

Hardpoints need to be installed in the stabilizer trailing edge S-1 for the mounting of the tail brace wires later. A 5/16" od x1-1/2" dowel, with a 5/64" id hole thru the center, is provided for making these hardpoints. Trial fit the dowel in the two holes in S-1. You may need to sand the outer surface of the dowel slightly to get a good slide fit. Cut two 5/16" long pieces of dowel and glue them into the holes in S-1.

61.

Cut six 5/16" sq. balsa stabilizer ribs from the 36" stock provided. Glue the ribs in place with Thin CA.

62a.

When the glue is dry, remove the stabilizer frame from the board and re-glue all the joints with Medium CA. Use enough glue to completely fill the joints, plus leave a small fillet of glue between the parts. Take your time and donít miss any joints! Each one of them contributes to the finished strength of the stabilizer.

b.

Lay the stabilizer back on the board and lightly sand both sides to smooth out all the glue joints.
CAUTION: Do not sand so much that you thin down the stabilizer more than 1/32" under its original 5/16" thickness.

c.

Mark a center-line all the way around the edges of the stabilizer. Using the center-line as a guide, sand the edges round.

63a.

Locate parts E-1, E-3, E-4, E-5, E-6 (sheet 13), and part E-2 (sheet 14). Glue and pin these parts together over the plan.

b.

Cut to length and glue in the 5/16" sq. balsa ribs for the two elevator halves.




64a.

When the glue is dry, remove the elevators from the board and re-glue all the joints with Medium CA. Use enough glue to completely fill the joints, plus leave a small fillet of glue between the parts.

b.

Lay the elevators back on the board and lightly sand both sides to smooth out all the glue joints.
CAUTION: Do not sand so much that you thin down the stabilizer more than 1/32" under its original 5/16" thickness.

65a.

A 3/32" dia. formed Elevator Joiner Wire is used to join the two elevator halves into a single unit. The Elevator Joiner Wire must be inlet into the leading edge of the elevators and then epoxied in place.



b.

The first step is to clean the Joiner Wire with paint thinner or acetone to remove any oil or grease. Then, match up the elevators and stabilizer on the plan. Now, place the Elevator Joiner Wire in position on top of the elevators and mark the locations where the legs of the wire will go back into the leading edges of the elevators. Carefully drill a 3/32" dia. hole at both locations. To best control the centering of these holes, we suggest using a non-powered twist drill bit in a pin vise. Make each hole 1-1/2" deep and 90 deg. to the leading edge.

c.

Groove the leading edge of the elevator to accept the shank of the Joiner Wire, from the hole you drilled all the way out the inboard end of the elevator. This is easiest to do using a hobby knife with a #11 blade.

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d. Trial fit the elevators together on the wire joiner. Adjust the grooves and holes as required to achieve a good fit. Then, mix up a small batch of 5-minute epoxy and apply glue into both holes and the grooves in elevator halves. Install the Joiner Wire into each elevator half and wipe off any excess epoxy. Lay this assembly onto wax paper on the plans, with the leading edge firmly against a straight edge, and then pin in place. Let dry.


66.

Mark a center-line all the way around the leading and trailing edges of the elevators. Using the center-line as a guide, sand the edges round.

67.

Cut two 1" long pieces of Glass Cloth Tape from the 2"x20" piece provided. Hold the pieces one at a time with a tweezers while you lightly spray one side with 3M-77 spray glue. Wrap the piece around the leading edge of the elevator, over the joiner wire installation, for reinforcement. Smooth out any wrinkles. Then, flow a coat of Thin CA glue into the tape. Wipe off any excess and let dry. Lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
Fin And Rudder

68a.

Tape or pin the fin/rudder plan down on a flat building board. Cover with wax paper or plastic wrap. Locate parts FN-1, FN-3, FN-4 (sheet 13), and parts FN-2, FN-5 (sheet 14) . Glue and pin these parts together over the plan.

b.

A hardpoint needs to be installed in the fin trailing edge FN-5 for the mounting of the tail brace wires later. A 5/16" od dowel, with a 5/64" id hole thru the center, is provided for making the hardpoint. Cut a 5/16" long piece off the dowel and glue it into the hole in FN-5.

c.

Cut a 5/16" sq. balsa stick for the fin rib and glue it in place.

69a.

Locate parts R-1, R-2, R-3, R-4, R-5, R-6, R-7, R-8 (sheet 14), and R-9 (sheet 13). Glue and pin these parts together over the plan.

b.

Cut to length and glue in the 5/16" sq. balsa ribs for the rudder.

70a.

When dry remove the Fin and Rudder from the building board and re-glue all the joints with Medium CA.

b.

Block sand both sides of the Fin and Rudder smooth.

c.

Draw a center-line on the leading edge and trailing edges of the Fin and Rudder and sand them round. Do not sand the bottom edge of FN-1, so it can be glued to the stabilizer in a later step.


71.

Lay the rudder back on the plan and mark the location of the Nylon Rudder Horn. With a #11 blade, inlet the leading edge of the Rudder to accept the Rudder Horn. Do not glue the Rudder Horn in place yet - it will be glued on after the rudder is covered.