Sig Mfg. Co., Inc....401-7 South Front Street....Montezuma, Iowa 50171

Introduction

The original Rascal design dates back to the early fifties. The Rascal was introduced by Top Flite Models, Inc., as the flagship for their highly successful Jig-Time series of all-sheet balsa, rubber powered models. Many modelers who are now of an age , may recall the Rascal as a very nice looking and equally nice flying airplane. All of these attributes were delivered to the modeler for the price of $.69, with a Guaranteed To Fly certificate! This was a price that any self-respecting kid with a paper route could afford.

We fondly recall many afternoons building these models with other aviation-minded friends, all of us wiping the excess "Ambroid" glue on our blue jeans, to the chagrin of our moms. Those afternoon building sessions were soon followed by flying these great little airplanes under the streetlights in the early evening. Wonderful memories of a simpler time! We never forgot the fun we had with these models and the wonderful lines of the original Rascal design. Even though the little Rascal is long gone, SIG is pleased to offer you a new R/C version of this attractive design. Like the original, the SIG R/C Rascal retains the classic lines of early postwar private airplanes and has the great flying characteristics of a true thoroughbred design.

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SIG's R/C Rascal has been designed to be powered by either geared Speed 400 electric motors or .049 -.07 glow engines. Either power source provides you with a great flying model that can be flown almost anywhere. The design is small enough to be flown in fairly confined areas such as a park, and large enough to turn in good thermaling capabilities. During the development and testing of the design, we routinely got flight times of 15 to 25 minutes, picking up a little thermal lift during the flights. Electric versions of the R/C Rascal can typically weigh about 23 ounces, depending upon the radio system and batteries used! This lightweight gives the model a light wing loading, allowing it to remain flying longer. Glow engine powered versions of the Rascal can be even lighter, also performing beautifully. The airfoil used on this design is a fairly conservative flat-bottom type with a slight amount of Phillips entry at the leading edge. This allows the Rascal to handle a reasonable amount of wind for its size.

The SIG R/C Rascal kit is virtually 100% laser-cut, providing you with very accurate parts fit. The wing is especially interesting and unique. Taking advantage of laser technology, we have been able to pre-cut the top and bottom wing skins for you. Using the instruction methods provided in this manual, you'll be able to easily create the great looking elliptical wing and tip shapes, typical of the original airplane. The egg-crate spar system is simple, strong and lightweight, allowing you to build the wing panels very quickly. The fuselage is equally light in weight but still very strong. It has a nice looking open area behind the wings that lends itself to transparent coverings, if you wish. Even though the original Rascal didn't have wheel pants, we couldn't resist adding them to this design for a more rakish look. Heck, we even made sure the tailwheel/tailskid has a matching wheel pant!


Finally, your R/C Rascal is loaded with the best hardware and most innovative parts available, giving you a truly lightweight airplane that will give you many, many enjoyable flights.


It is important that you make your power decisions before you begin construction. We have included two plywood firewalls, one for electric power and one for use with glow engines. Be sure to choose the one you need for your R/C Rascal.



COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST
Laser Cut Balsa
1SH#1; 1/16"x3"x18" W-4, W-5, W-6, W-7, W-8 Wing RibS 1SH#2; 3/32"x3"x18" Formers F-1, F-3, F-5, F-6, F-7, Nose Bottom Doubler, Servo Tray, & Tail Skid Pants 1SH#3; 1/16"x4"x24" Stabilizer & Fin Frame 2SH#4; 1/16"x6"x36" Fuselage Side & Nose Doublers
2SH#5; 1/16"x3"x24" Wing Top Leading Edge 4SH#6; 1/16"x4"x30" Wing Trailing Edge 1SH#7; 3/16"x3"x18" Elevator(2), VF-3, & Rudder 1SH#10; 3/32"x3"x12" W-1, W-2, W-3, W2-A Wing Ribs
1SH#12; 3/32"x3"x24" Spar Webs 2SH#13; 1/16"x4"x24" Stabilizer Frame & Tip, Fin Frame & Top 2SH#14; 1/16"x3"x24" Wing Bottom Leading Edge 1SH#15; 1/16"x4"x18" Wing Panels - Top, Bottom, Rear & Center
1SH#16; 1/16"x4"x12" Wing Center - Top, Bottom, Rear & W-9
Laser Cut Lite-Ply Plywood
1SH#8; 1/8"x4"x6" Firewalls, WP Mounts, LG. Supports, Hatch Mount & Wing Mount Plate
Laser Cut Birch Plywood
1SH#9; 1/16"x4"x12" Dihedral Brace, Hatch, LG. Brace, W-8, F-4, Wing Sanding Jig 1SH#11; 1/64"x6"x16" Fuselage Doublers, Control Horns & Servo Tray Doubler
Laser Cut Russian Plywood
1SH#17; 1/8"x2-1/2"x2-1/2" Electric Motor Mount
Balsa Sticks
21/16"x1/4"x36" Wing Cap Strips 31/16"x1/8"x36" Stabilizer Cap Strips & Fuselage Brace 41/8"x1/8"x36" Fuselage Longerons 31/16"x1/16"x36" Fuselage Stringers
11/16"x1/2"x6" Fin Leading Edge 11/4" Tri. x24" Fin/Fuse Fillets 13/16" Sq. x6" Tank Support

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Sheet Balsa
21/16"x3"x36" Balsa Sheet (Fuselage)
Hardwood
13/16"x3/16"x3" Elevator Joiner (Spruce) 25/32" Dia. x1-1/4" Wing Dowels
Shaped Balsa
224" Long Shaped Leading Edge 12" Long Shaped Wing Center Section Block 71/16"x1/4"x1" Tapered T.E. Stock (Shims)
Hardware
82-56x3/8" Slotted Bolts (Wheel Pant Mounts & Motor Mount) 82-56 Blind Nuts (Wheel Pants & Motor Mount) 18-32x1" Nylon Wing Bolt 41/16" Dia. x1/4" Brass Tube (Pushrods)
23/32" Dia. x3" Aluminum Tube (Fuselage Cabin Braces) 11/16" Dia. x1/2" Aluminum Tube (Tail Skid Brace) 15/16" Dia. x1/4" Drilled Wing Dowel 23/32" Landing Gear Clips
2#2x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws (Hatch Mount) 2Gem #1 Paper Clips (P/R Connectors)
Pre-Bent Music Wire
13/32" Dia. Pre-Bent Main Gear Wire 11/32" Dia. Pre-Bent Tail Skid
Plastic Parts
1Set of .030 Molded Wheel Pants 1.008x3"x17" Clear Plastic For Windshield & Side Windows
Miscellaneous
3.031x18" Steel Cable (Throttle, Rudder & Elevator) 3.073 O.D.x18" Nylon Tube (Throttle, Rudder & Elevator) 12-1/2"x4-1/4" Card Stock (Main Gear Fairings) 11"x4-1/4" Velcro (Battery Hold Down)
119"x25" Full Size Plan Sheet 1 119"x25" Full Size Plan Sheet 2 119"x25" Full Size Plan Sheet 3 19-1/2"x25" Full Size Plan Sheet 4
15"x13-1/2" Decal Sheet 1Printed Instrument Panel 1Photo-Illustrated Instruction Book


Items Needed To Complete Kit

Electric Version
  • Speed 400 Motor and Gearbox - Maxx #ACC347
  • 7 or 8-cell 600 AE Battery Pack with Connectors
  • Speed Controller for 7-8 Cells
  • Battery Pack Charger - A/C-D/C Type
  • Battery Connectors, such as Sermos
  • 16 gauge red & white hook-up wire
  • Electric Motor Mount - Maxx #ACC314

Glow Engine Version
  • .049 - .07 R/C Engine
  • Sullivan 2 ounce Slant Fuel Tank, #SS-2 436
  • Third Servo for Throttle Control
  • 250 - 350 maH Airborne Battery Pack
  • Dave Brown #0506 Motor Mount
  • Small Diameter Fuel Tubing

Common To Both Versons
  • Radio System with small micro or mini servos and a small receiver
  • Covering Material - Two 6 rolls typical for multi-color scheme
  • Williams Bros. 1-7/8 diameter wheels - #150
  • Typical Hobby Tools: Hobby knife with sharp blades, Dremel Tool and bits, selection of drill bits, razor blades, sandpaper, and sanding blocks of various sizes, pliers, good soldering iron and solder, etc.

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Pre-Construction Notes

With the exception of the open structure on each fuselage side and the wing panels, there is really no need to build this airplane directly over the plans. But when building over the plans, be sure to protect them with waxed paper, the clear backing from covering film, etc. We built our R/C Rascals basically using SIG Thick CA glue. However, there are certain areas of construction that may require different adhesives. We will call these out in the appropriate instruction steps. You may notice that some laser cut parts have small notches along their edges. This is done on purpose to hold the part in the sheet. Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade to remove the parts as needed. With scissors, remove the rear fuselage drawing from plan sheet No. 1. Use clear tape to join the rear plan to the front plan at the X lines. Let's begin.

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FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION

1.

The fuselage sides are made first. No matter how many times we say this, some builders always make the mistake of making either two right or two left fuselage sides!

However, we'll say it again -

MAKE ONE RIGHT AND ONE LEFT FUSELAGE SIDE.

From your kit contents, locate the two laser cut 1/16" balsa fuselage sides and the two 1/64" plywood fuselage doublers. To give you time, use a slow setting adhesive to glue the plywood doublers in place to each fuselage side, aligning them carefully. Wipe off any excess glue and use pins or weights to hold the doublers firmly in place to the fuselage sides on your flat work surface until the glue sets.


2.

As shown on the plans, the fuselage sides are framed with 1/8" square balsa longerons. Pin the fuselage sides firmly to your flat work surface, with the doubler sides up. Starting with the bottom longeron, use CA glue to glue the longeron in place from the very rear of the fuselage forward to the front edge of the doubler. Pin the longeron in place as you go. Glue the top longeron in place next. As shown, this piece fits from the front face of F-6 back to the rear face of F-7. Next, glue the stabilizer longeron in place. This is cut to fit from the back face of F-7, back to the rear of the fuselage side.

The longeron that fits at the top of the fuselage, directly beneath the wing is now prepared. As you can see, this piece is glued to the top of the fuselage side and fits from F-6, forward to the bottom of the leading edge of the cabin. In order to make this piece fit flat to the fuselage side, you must relieve it slightly to fit flat against the fuselage doubler, forward of F-5. Use a sanding block to do this and glue the piece in place.


3.

Cut, fit and glue the two 1/8" square balsa uprights in place that fit against the back face of F-6 and the front face of F-7. Hold the actual formers in place to the fuselage side when doing this to insure a perfect fit.

4.

Cut, fit and glue the 1/16"x1/8" balsa uprights in place between the fuselage longerons at stations A and B on the plans -these are installed on the 1/16" edge. Cut, fit and glue the 1/16"x1/8" diagonal fuselage braces in place, from F-6 back to F-7, also on edge.

5.

With the uprights and diagonal braces in place in each fuselage side, turn the sides over and cut, fit and glue the three 1/16" square stringers in place using the plans for placement reference. Cut, fit and glue a length of 1/16" sq. balsa to the center of the window frame support, as shown on the plans. Avoid using excess glue for this step. The exposed edges of the window frame will later be used to mount the front windshield and the side windows.

6.

From your kit contents, locate the four 1/8" lite-ply laser-cut landing gear supports. As shown on the plans, these are glued directly to the fuselage doublers, using the tick marks provided for placement. The supports fit against the bottom fuselage longeron. Use thick CA glue and use the actual landing gear wire for exact spacing between the supports. Once these supports are glued in place, use your hobby knife to slot the bottom longerons, where the landing gear wire exits each fuselage side.



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7. Remove the fuselage sides from your building surface. Clamp or tape the sides together, matching the outlines of each exactly. Use your sanding block to sand their outer edges to exactly the same outline, giving you two identical fuselage sides.






OPTIONAL: You will notice that our models have nice looking gray cabin interiors. We achieved this look using nothing more than light weight gray art paper, obtained from a local art supply store. We cut the paper to fit inside the cabin, from F-5, forward to the landing gear supports. We glued it in place with 3M Spray Adhesive. We also used this paper on the forward face of F-5. This is a great looking effect that weighs virtually nothing. Give it a try!

ELECTRIC or GLOW ENGINE?
At this point, you must decide which version of the Rascal you want to build - electric or glow. In the following steps we will identify procedures for both the electric and glow versions. Use only the steps and procedures that apply to the version you are building.

8.

Laminate 3/32" laser-cut balsa servo tray with 1/64" ply servo tray doubler - align edges accurately. Note that the servo opening in this tray assembly is cut to allow the servos to be mounted further forward, toward former F-5. Position your servos in place into the mount and mark their mounting holes with a pencil. Drill the servo mounting screw holes. Set the tray aside for later installation.

9.

Glow Engine Version: Using the centerline tick marks on firewall F-2, use a pencil and a straightedge to lightly draw vertical and horizontal centerlines onto the former. Using these centerlines, accurately locate your motor mount to the firewall (DAVE BROWN #0506 is used for the Norvel .061). Mark the mount s hole locations on the firewall with a pencil. Use a 1/8" dia. drill bit to drill the four mounting holes through the firewall. Insert the four supplied 2-56 blind mounting nuts into the back face of the firewall and press firmly in place. Use a small amount of thick CA glue around the edges of the blind nuts to secure them.

10.

Mount the engine to the motor mount, using 2-56 bolts and locknuts (not supplied). Note that the engine should be mounted as far forward as possible on the mount.

11.

The two vertical grain balsa engine compartment doublers (the pair without slots) are now glued in place to each fuselage side. Use the firewall to accurately align the rear edges of the doublers when gluing them in place - remove the firewall.

Electric Version: Install the fuselage nose doublers with the tab slots.

12.

As shown on the plans, the glow engine version of the Rascal has a shorter nose. This is to allow for the Norvel .061 engine to be mounted in place with the correct propeller clearance. This requires that you now trim both fuselage sides to the shape shown on the plans for the Glow Engine version of this model. Use the plans as your guide, trimming and sanding both fuse sides identically.

Electric Version: No trimming of the fuselage sides is needed.

13.

With the right fuselage side pinned flat to your work surface, glue the F-2 firewall and formers F-5 and F-6 in place. Use a 90 deg. triangle to make sure these formers are at true right angles to the fuselage side. The previously prepared servo tray is now glued in place to the right fuselage side, between F-5 and F-6. Apply glue to the right side of the servo tray, where it tabs into the right fuselage side. Glue it in place between but not to formers F-5 and F-6, again at 90 deg. upright.

Electric Version: The firewall for the electric version has a large hole in its center. Use this firewall for this step.

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14. With the right fuselage side still flat on your work surface, test fit the left fuselage side in place onto the F-2 firewall, F-5, the servo tray and F-6. Each tab and slot should align easily and the structure should be square without misalignment.
Remove the fuselage side and apply glue to the former and servo tray edges that will contact the fuselage side. Carefully reposition the fuselage side in place and use weights to hold it flat to the formers. Allow the structure to dry.

Electric Version: Before gluing the left fuselage side in place, you must prepare the laser-cut plywood electric motor mount for installation. Using the four mounting holes in the Maxx Products Clam Shell motor mount as a guide, mark their locations onto the plywood electric mount part. Drill these four holes with a 1/8" dia. drill bit. Press four 2-56 blind mounting nuts into each drilled hole, all the way to their bases. Use a little thick CA glue around their edges to secure them. As shown on the plans, the mount is installed with the blind nut bases on the top of the mount.

Glue the ply motor mount in place to the right fuselage side, with its tab in the nose doubler slot and its rear Tab engaged in the firewall slot. With the ply mount in place, apply glue to the motor mount, firewall, F-5, servo tray and F-6 parts. Carefully position the left fuselage side over each part . Make sure the fuselage side is fully seated to the parts and use weights to hold it securely in place.

15.

Remove the fuselage from your work surface. Glue lasercut former F-4 in place at the top of the fuselage cabin, against the back of the cabin leading edge shapes and between the upper 1/8" sq. balsa longerons. Be sure to install this former squarely, making sure it is accurately in place.

16.

Glue former F-3 in place at angle shown. Use the F-3 ANGLE GUIDE a guide. This angle is important because it dictates the slope of the nose. Also note that when the wire landing gear is in place between the fuselage sides, its top edge is immediately in front of F-3.

Electric Version: Glue former F-1 in place between the fuselage sides, at front. F-1 should be vertically aligned with the fuselage sides in side view and square with fuselage in top view.



17.

The top front 1/8" sq. balsa nose stringer is now installed. For the electric version, this stringer is cut to fit from the front face of F-1 back to the rear face of F-3. For the glow version, the stringer is cut to fit 1/4" front of the firewall, back to the rear face of F-3.

18.

Glow Version Only: Assemble your fuel tank per the manufacturer s instructions. As shown on the plans, the fuel tank sits directly behind the firewall, as high as possible. It is supported in this position with two lengths of 3/16" sq. balsa, cut to fit snuggly between the fuselage sides. Access to the tank, for installation and removal purposes, is through the bottom access hatch.

Cut and trim the two required pieces of 3/16" sq. balsa to support the tank. Set one of these aside for now for installation later. Holding the tank in position in the fuselage, glue the forward tank support in place. Install the engine and mount in place onto the firewall. Now you must plot your fuel line holes through the firewall.
We suggest using a simple two-line fuel system. As shown on the plans, we drilled these holes to allow for muffler clearance and for easy routing of the muffler pressure/overflow line (we used small diameter fuel tubing for the Norvel). Mark the locations of the two holes onto the firewall and remove the tank from the fuselage.

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With the engine and mount still on the firewall, mark the location of the throttle tubing hole. This hole lines up with the hole in the engine s throttle arm and, in the case of the Norvel, is located on the far left side of the firewall. Remove the mount and engine from the firewall. Drill the two fuel line holes with a 5/32" dia. bit and use a 5/64" dia. drill bit for the throttle tubing hole. The throttle pushrod tube will be installed later in these instructions.

19a.

Use the 1/16"x3" balsa sheet provided to cover the top front of the fuselage from F-3 forward, over the engine compartment to the front of the fuselage sides. This is most easily done using two pieces of wood, joined at the center, over the 1/8" sq. balsa stringer.

b.

Edge-glue the sheeting to the fuselage sides first. Then apply glue to the formers and roll the balsa sheet over them to the center of the 1/8" sq. stringer.



c.

Lightly sand each joint with a sanding block.

Electric Version: The 1/16" balsa nose sheeting is applied in exactly the same manner as the glow version. The sheeting covers F-1 back to F-3.

20.

Glue the bottom 3/32" laser-cut balsa nose doubler in place between the fuselage nose doublers and against the bottom face of the firewall. The doubler fits flush with the fuselage sides with the half-circle drain hole cut out facing to the rear. When gluing this doubler in place, match the bottom curvature of the nose. Lightly sand the doubler and fuselage sides smooth.






21.

Glow Version Only: Use your Dremel Tool and drum sander bit to begin clearing out the top front sheeting to accept the engine and mount back to the firewall. As shown in the photo and on the plans, the sheeting is cleared enough to cleanly accept the engine and its muffler, with approximately 1/8" clearance all the way around. As you proceed, frequently check the fit until you are able to get the motor mount flat against the firewall. Note that the configuration of the Norvel engine and muffler leaves the muffler almost, but not quite, touching the firewall. This works fine in actual practice.

22.

Locate laser-cut 1/16" plywood main landing gear brace. Lightly tack-glue the brace in place to the bottom of the fuselage, over the landing gear wire slots cut earlier into the bottom longerons. After final sanding of the fuselage, this brace will be removed, allowing you to mount and glue the landing gear in place in the fuselage. Only after the wire landing gear is in place, will the sanded landing gear brace be final-glued to the fuselage.

23.

The bottom of the fuselage, from the front edge of the 1/16" plywood landing brace, forward to the nose is now sheeted, using the 1/16"x3"x36" balsawood sheet stock provided in your kit. As shown, this sheeting is applied in cross-grain. Glue sheeting in place but DO NOT glue the rear edge to the plywood landing gear brace. Lightly sand the sheeting edges smooth with the fuselage sides.

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Glow Version: Use your hobby knife to clear out the bottom front sheeting, at the center front firewall location, to expose and match the half-circle drain hole in the bottom nose doubler. Use your Dremel Tool and a drum sanding bit to create the half-round shape in the front of the bottom sheeting, as shown on the plans. This shape allows the engine and mount to be more easily removed and installed.

Electric Version: In order to mount and remove the motor/gear assembly, you will need access to the bottom front of the fuselage. As shown, we used a Dremel Tool and a drum sanding bit to shape a rectangular opening in the bottom front sheeting, with rounded corners. This opening extends back toward the firewall, far enough to allow a screwdriver to fit into the rear motor mount screw. Use a straight edge and soft pencil to draw the area to be removed directly onto the balsa.

24.

From the laser-cut lite-ply parts, locate the hatch bolt plate. Trim the length of this piece to fit exactly in place at the bottom of the fuselage, between the longerons, just in front of former F-5. This part must be positioned so that it is 1/16" below the bottom edges of the fuselage sides. Use a scrap piece of 1/16" wood to position it correctly in the fuselage Glue the part in place to the fuselage longerons and the bottom forward face of F-5.








25.

The bottom access hatch is now made. Locate the lasercut plywood hatch stiffener, two #2 sheet metal screws and the 1/16"x3" balsa sheeting stock provided in your kit. Note that the plywood hatch stiffener fits between the fuselage longerons, just ahead of F-5. The front lip of the hatch stiffener has the rounded ends. The front of the hatch fits under the plywood landing gear brace and the rear of the hatch rests on the spruce hatch screw plate just installed.

Start by positioning the ply hatch brace in place in the bottom of the fuselage - rounded ends beneath the ply landing gear brace and the rear (with the screw holes) directly over the spruce bolt plate, lined up with the front face of F-5. The ply hatch cover should fit easily without being forced. If it is a little too wide, lightly sand its sides to achieve a good fit. Use a sharp pencil to mark a line across the hatch brace, at the rear edge of the landing gear brace. Remove the hatch brace from the fuselage. The hatch brace is now sheeted - cross grain - using the 1/16" balsa stock. At the front, the balsa sheeting is aligned with the pencil mark just made. Leave about 1/4" of balsa on each side of the brace.

Turn the sheeted hatch over and use a 3/32" dia. drill bit to complete the two screw holes through the balsa sheet. Turn the hatch back over and use your Dremel-Tool and a small diameter grinding bit to clear the balsa around the two holes to accept the heads of the screws. Install the hatch in place into the bottom of the fuselage. The two guide holes for the hatch screws are now made through the hatch and the spruce screw plate - do this with a pin vise and a 1/16" dia. drill bit. The hatch can now be installed into the fuselage, using the two #2 screws provided.

Use the 1/16"x3" balsa sheet stock to cut, fit and glue cross-grain sheeting in place from the rear edge of the hatch, back to the center of former F-6. Use your sanding block to sand the edges of the hatch and bottom sheeting flush with the fuselage sides.

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26. As shown on the plans, the center section of the wing is integrated into the fuselage structure. In the following steps, the center section will be built to fit perfectly to the fuselage. Later, when building the wing panels, having the center already built will be very convenient.


Start by locating the required laser-cut parts - 1/16" ply W-8 and the Dihedral Brace, the 1/8" lite ply wing bolt mounting plate and balsa parts W-1 ribs (2), W-9 and the four top and bottom laser-cut sheeting pieces. You also need the two 5/32" dia. x1-1/4" wing dowels, the 5/16" dia. x1/2" dowel with the drilled center hole, the 8-32 x1" nylon wing bolt and the shaped fuselage/wing block.

27.

The top and bottom sheet parts are first glued together, making two complete pieces of sheeting - note that these are laser keyed to fit each other at the join line and that there is a laser-cut 5/16" dia. hole at the rear edge of both sheeting pieces. After gluing the sheets together, lightly sand the joints smooth. Test-fit the 1/8" lite ply wing bolt plate in place beneath the top wing saddle longerons, against the front of F-6. The fit should be good but use a sanding block if needed to make it fit perfectly. Glue the bolt plate in place in the fuselage.

28.

Insert the two 5/32" dia. forward wing dowels into the front of F-4, leaving about 1/8" of each exposed at the rear. Press ply former W-8 in place over the dowel ends, flat to the back face of F-4. Place one of the sheeting pieces in place on the top of the fuselage, with the lasered hole to the rear. Hold the sheeting firmly in place to W-8 and look at the hole at the rear of the sheet. It should be centered over the hole in the wing bolt mounting plate. If the hole in the sheet is too far back, trim the front of the sheet a little to move the hole forward. Use a little piece of waxed paper directly beneath W-8 to keep glue away from the fuselage. With the bottom sheet exactly in place over the top of the fuselage, glue the forward edge of the sheet to the bottom edge of W-8. Use a piece of tape at the rear to hold the sheet firmly in place.


29.

Lay the fuselage on its right side, on a flat surface. Glue the right W-1 rib in place to the back face of W-8 and onto the right edge of the center section sheet. Turn the fuselage over and glue the left W-1 in place. Use your sanding block to lightly sand each W-1 rib flush with the fuselage sides.


30.

With the center section structure still on the fuselage, glue 1/16" ply dihedral brace in place at the front of the 1/8" slots in the W-1 ribs and onto the bottom sheeting. Glue the W-9 backup former in place directly behind dihedral brace.

Remove the two dowels from the fuselage and center section. Use your sanding block to chamfer the trailing edge bottom sheeting to receive the top sheeting. Insert the two 5/32"x1-1/4" wing dowels all the way through W-8 and into the holes in the dihedral brace. Glue the dowels in place.



Mount the center section assembly to the fuselage, with a piece of wax paper beneath the trailing edge. Glue the top sheeting in place on the center section - align carefully, wiping off any excess glue.

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31. Use 5-minute epoxy to now glue the 5/16" dia. piece of drilled dowel into the two holes at the rear of the center section. The hole in the dowel must line up with the hole in the 1/8" ply wing bolt plate in the fuselage. Remove the center section from the fuselage and use an 8-32 tap to thread the hole in the wing bolt plate (make sure to angle the tap to match the top curvature of the airfoiled center section). Use thin CA glue to harden the threads and re-tap them. Test the threads with the 8-32 nylon bolt in your kit.

When the epoxy has set, use a sanding block to sand the dowel smooth with the top and bottom surfaces of the center section. Mount the center section in place onto the fuselage and test the wing bolt. Make any adjustments necessary to create a good fit. Remove the center section from the fuselage.



32.

From your kit, locate the shaped center section leading edge balsa block (5/16"x3/4"x1-5/16"x2"). Lightly sand the sides of this block until it fits between easily between the fuselage sides, up against F-4. The fit should be snug, without being forced in place. With the block in place, use a pencil to mark the wing dowel holes onto the backside of the block, through F-4. Remove the block and use your Dremel Tool and small grinding bit to relieve the two hole locations, allowing the wing dowels to clear when the center section is in place. Test the fit of the block with the center section in place. The leading edge block is now glued in place.


33.

Mount the wing center section to the fuselage and use your sanding block to lightly sand the leading edge block smooth, matching its shape to the fuselage sides at the front and its top surface smooth with the leading edge of the center section. Don't worry about final sanding at this stage, just sand the parts to match. Remove the completed center section and set it aside for wing assembly.

34.

Without using glue, fit former F-7 in place at the rear of the fuselage - use a little tape or a clamp to keep the fuselage sides firmly against the sides of F-7. Use a double-sided sanding block (a simple piece of scrap 1/16" ply or hard balsa sheet with 220 sandpaper on both sides works perfectly) to sand the rear fuselage longerons uniformly, allowing the two fuselage sides to touch.



Once the longerons are sanded, remove F-7. Mix a small amount of 5-minute epoxy and carefully glue F-7 in place to one of the fuselage sides. Apply glue sparingly to the sanded top and bottom longerons, the very end of the fuselage side and to the opposite side of F-7. Pull the fuselage sides together, fitting F-7 in place and holding the two fuselage sides together squarely at the very rear. Use a little tape or a simple clamp to hold the structure together and allow the glue to set.

35.

In this step you will install the two female rudder and elevator pushrod tubes. The technique is easy if you follow these instructions. First, note that these two tubes extend into the servo compartment about 1". They pass through the laser-cut holes in F-6, back through the fuselage, through F-7 and exit through the laser cut holes in the rear of each fuselage side, just beneath the stabilizer. The nice thing about this set-up is that the tubes are anchored, inside the rear of the fuselage, at each upright and diagonal brace, immediately behind the top 1/16" stringer. This makes them virtually invisible when you choose to cover this open area with transparent coverings.

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Use 220 sandpaper to lightly sand the outer surface of both tubes. This allows them to be securely glued, using thick CA glue. As shown on the plans, the rear ends of the tubes exit the fuselage at severe angles. It is easiest to pre-cut these angles before installing the tubes - do this now.
Insert the untrimmed end of one of the tubes into the rear exit hole and use a piece of wire or small dowel to guide it through the opening lasered into F-7. Continue feeding the tube into the fuselage all the way to F-6. Feed the tube through the hole in F-6. From the servo compartment, carefully pull the tubing forward until the angle-cut end of the tubing nests into the rear exit slot at the back of the fuselage. Once the tube is in this position, you can begin gluing it in place.

The technique we use for gluing the tube at the various stations is to put a little puddle of thick CA on a piece of waxed paper. Then use a length of small dia. dowel with one end sanded to a dull point, for use as an applicator. Start gluing the tube in place at the rear of the fuselage. Use a scrap piece of stickwood to hold the tube against its exit point in F-7 and apply a small amount of glue to hold it there. Move forward to the rearmost diagonal and move the tube a little to let you apply a small dot of glue to the inside edge of the diagonal, just behind the top stringer. Hold the tube in place to the glue to adhere it. Move forward to the rearmost upright and repeat this procedure, again making sure the tube is directly behind the top stringer.

In this manner glue the tube in place to the remaining uprights and diagonals until you get to F-6. Apply a little glue to the tube, where it enters the hole into the servo compartment. Repeat this procedure with the opposite pushrod tube. When both tubes are installed, go back over each glue joint with the dowel applicator and apply a small amount of glue to each joint, making sure the tube is secure - use glue sparingly. Use scissors to reach inside the servo compartment to trim the tubes to a length of about 1" ahead of the front of F-6. Use your sanding block to lightly sand the fuselage sides, where the tubes exit.

36.

Use the 1/16"x1/8" balsa stock to now cut and glue in place the top and bottom cross-braces at fuselage stations A and B on your plans. Cut these braces to fit easily, without bowing out the fuselage sides and be sure that they are identical length for both the top and bottom. This keeps the fuselage square. Use your sanding block to lightly smooth the top and bottom of the fuselage over these cross-braces.






37.

The top and bottom rear 1/16" balsa sheeting is now installed. Note that this sheeting is applied with the grain running front to rear - not cross-grain. We suggest installing the wing center section assembly, protecting its rear edge with a bit of wax paper. This gives you an accurate front edge location for the top sheet. Simply lay the balsa sheet in place and trace the fuselage outline onto it with a pencil. Cut the sheet out using a sharp #11 blade. The sheet is then glued in place. After attaching both the top and bottom pieces, remove the wing center section and use your sanding block to lightly smooth the sheeting edges smooth to the fuselage sides. Also, lightly sand the rear edge of the top sheeting to match the stabilizer leading edge notch.

38.

The completed fuselage is now sanded to shape. As shown on the plans, the fuselage corners are sanded round for a pleasant, believable look. Don't overdo it but strive for a uniform overall look. NOTE - When sanding the fuselage at the bottom plywood landing gear brace location, take care to round this uniformly, along with the balsawood immediately in front and back of the brace.

39.

Locate the printed color instrument panel from the kit contents. Use scissors to trim the panel around it's outer edge. Trial-fit the panel in place against F-3. Trim as needed for a good fit. The panel is now glued in place to F-3. You can use an adhesive such as 3-M Super 77 Spray Adhesive.