Sig Mfg. Co., Inc....401-7 South Front Street....Montezuma, Iowa 50171


In order for your 4-STAR 60 to fly as well as it was designed to, it must be carefully assembled. A model airplane that is not built properly will not fly properly! Remember to work slowly and follow the instructions exactly. SIG, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a proven aerodynamic design, quality materials, and detailed instructions, but ultimately the flyability of your finished model depends on how well YOU put it all together.


Wood Parts Identification

Wood parts such as standard stick and sheet stock, leading edges, trailing edges, ailerons, elevator, etc., are all easily identifiable by comparing their shape and dimensions to the plans and the "4-STAR 60 COMPLETE PARTS LIST"; therefore we did not feel that there was any need to label these parts. On the other hand, proper identification of the different wing ribs, wing sheet, fuselage formers, etc., can be confusing because some of them are very similar looking, but in fact they are different. Wherever possible, we have labeled (printed) these parts.

About The Wood In The Kit

We strive to supply good quality materials in all SIG kits. However, wood is a highly variable material (unlike man-made plastic or metal), so every single wood part in a kit will probably not have flawless appearance. Often things that look like an imperfection are actually quite acceptable when you consider the function the part will serve. Mineral stains and tiny knots do not seriously affect balsa wood strength. Also, there is a natural tendency for some balsa sticks and sheets to immediately bow upon being cut off from a perfectly square block due to internal stresses in the wood. In most cases, bows in wood parts (such as leading edges) readily straighten out as they are glued into a structural unit. Likewise LitePly fuselage sides, formers, and doublers that are warped will usually straighten right out when they are glued in place. If you are in doubt about the suitability of any part in your kit for it's intended purpose, call or write to us for assistance and/or a replacement part.

Laser-Cut Balsa
23/32"x3"x18" SHT.# 1 - W-1 (Wing Ribs) 13/32"x3"x18" SHT.# 2 - W-2 (Wing Ribs) 13/32"x3"x18" SHT.# 3 - W-3 (Wing Ribs) 33/32"x3"x18" SHT.# 4 - W-4 (Wing Ribs)
53/32"x3"x18" SHT.# 5 - W-5 (Wing Ribs) 13/32"x6"x24" SHT.# 6 - Top Deck Sheet F-4T, F-5T 13/32"x2"x36" SHT.# 7 - Rear Spar Webs 13/32"x4"x36" SHT.# 8 - Main Spar Webs
13/32"x3"x24" SHT.# 9 - Diagonal Wing Braces D-1 ,D-2,F-1 ,T-2,T-3 13/32"x3"x24" SHT.# 10 - Diagonal Wing Braces D-2 13/8"x4"x36" SHT.# 11 - Elevators and Rudder 11/4"x4"x36" SHT.# 12 - Stabilizer and Fin
Balsa Sheet
43/32"x2"x36" Wing Trailing Edge Sheet 41/16"x3"x36" Stabilizer and Fin Sheet 23/32"x4"x36" Wing Center Sheet
Balsa Sticks
83/16"x3/16"x36" Forward Spars 61/4"x1/2"x36" Main Spars and Doublers 51/8"x5/16"x24" Rear Fuselage Stringers 41/4"x1/4"x36" Rear Wing Spars
13/4" Triangle x18" Firewall, Wing Bolt Blocks, Landing Gear Plate Braces 11/2" Triangle x6" Tail Fairing Blocks 11/4"x3/8"x36" Stabilizer and Fin 11/4"x5/8"x12" Fin Trailing Edge
Special-Cut Balsa
25/16"x36" Leading Edges 21/4"x1/2"x36" Trailing Edges 11/2"x1"x6" Trailing Edge Fill-In 11"x1"x6" Wing Dowel Support Blocks
23/8"x1-5/16"x2-3/8" Ailerons
Laser-Cut Lite-Ply Plywood
11/8"x4-1/2"x6" SHT.# 13 Fuselage Top, Stab Mount 21/8"x6"x42" SHT.# 14 Fuselage Rear, Tip Rib 11/8"x4-1/2"x32" SHT.# 15 Fuselage Bottom, APG,HR,TWM, and Dual Tool 11/8"x6"x24" SHT.# 16 Fuselage Formers and Tank Floor
11/8"x9-1/2"x5" SHT.# 17 Fuselage Bottom Front 21/8"x6"x38" SHT.# 18 Fuselage Front and Fuselage Doublers
Laser-Cut Birch Plywood
11/16"x4"x9-1/2" SHT.# 19 Hatch Covers, Wing Hold-Down Plates 11/8"x4"x15" SHT.# 20 3ply Dihedral Brace, Servo Tray, F-2D 11/4"x4"x8" SHT.# 21 5 ply Firewall, Landing Gear Plate
23/4"x3/4"x1-1/2" Basswood Wing Hold-Down Blocks 21/4"x1-3/4" Wing Dowels 11/4"x1/2"x16" Basswood Grooved Hatch Rails 13/8"x1/2"x6" Basswood Aileron Servo Mounts
Wire Parts
11/8" dia. Pre-Bent Elevator Joiner Wire 24-40 x8" Aileron Pushrods 42-56 x10" Elevator and Rudder Push rods 13/32 dia. x7" Tailwheel Wire With Nylon Bracket
8#2 x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws (Hatch Covers) 8#2 x3/4" Sheet Metal Screws (Elev,Rudder,Ailerons) 2#4 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws (Tailwheel Bracket) 36-32 x1/2" Machine Bolts (Landing Gear)
46-32 x1" Machine Bolts (Motor Mounts) 26-32 x1-1/2" Machine Bolts (Axles) 46-32 Hex Nuts (Axles) 26-32 Lock Nuts (Axles)
24-40 Hex Nuts (Aileron Pushrods) 22-56 Hex Nuts (Elevator, Rudder Push rods) 76-32 Blind Nuts (Main Gear and Motor Mounts) 3#2 Flat Washers (Tailwheel Retainers)
1Small (Right) Nylon Control Horn (Aileron) 1Small (Left) Nylon Control Horn (Aileron) 2Med. (Right) Nylon Control Horn (Rudder and Elev.) 21/4-20 x1-1/2" Nylon Wing Bolts


Hardware Continued
24-40 Steel RC Links (Aileron) 24-40 Solder Clevis (Aileron) 22-56 Steel RC Links (Rudder and Elev.) 22-56 Solder Clevis (Rudder and Elev.)
23-1/2" Glass Filed Motor Mounts 2Assembly Push rod Connectors (Throttle Pushrod)
1Clear Molded Canopy 1.090 Tempered Aluminum Main Gear 2.200 o.d. x36" Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubing (Rudder,Elev) 2.270 o.d. x36" Nylon Outer Pushrod Tubing (Rudder,Elev.)
1.130 o.d. x18" Nylon Tubing (Throttle Pushrod) 11/16" Dia. x18" Steel Cable (Throttle Push rod) 12"x30" Fiberglass Tape ( Wing Center Joint and Tailwheel Wire and Elevator Joiner Wire) 22Easy Hinges
138"x50" Plate #1 Full Size Plan 138"x50" Plate #2 Full Size Plan 128" Page Photo Illustrated Instruction Book 25"x17-1/2" Paper (Aileron Servo Leads)
Decal Sheets
18-3/4"x24" DKM-273A Fuselage Stars 18-3/4"x24" DKM-273B Right Wing & Stabilizer Stars 18-3/4"x24" DKM-273C Left Wing & Stabilizer Stars


Additional Components Needed

The following items are not supplied in this kit but are needed to complete the 4-STAR 60. Because of the wide variety of brands available and the influence of personal preferences, the choice of these items is left to the builder. All of these items are available from your local hobby shop.

.60 to .65 cu. in. 2-Stroke Glow R/C Engine w/Muffler, or .65 to .90 cu. in. 4-Stroke Glow R/C Engine w/Muffler 12 oz. fuel tank, 3-1/4 inch main wheels, and 1-1/4 inch tail wheel.
Engines larger than those listed are not recommended! Use of oversize engines will cause balance problems and may overload the structure of the airplane. Any normally ported .60 2-stroke glow R/C engine will provide adequate power to fly the 4-STAR 60. We believe that .65 4-stroke glow R/C engine will be the most commonly used engine in the 4-STAR 60, so that is what we've shown on the full-size plans and in this instruction book.

Radio Control System
You will need at least a 4-channel radio control system with 5 servos. One servo to operate each aileron, elevator, rudder, and engine throttle of your 4-STAR 60. The 4-STAR 60's fuselage is spacious enough that any common brand of radio equipment with standard size servos and battery pack can be used. Be certain that your radio system transmits on one of the FCC-approved frequencies for R/C model aircraft.

1/2"x 8"x 12" Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIGRF240)
Use this foam rubber to protect your radio receiver and battery pack from damaging engine vibration. Foam rubber is also used as packing around the fuel tank and radio components to keep them from shifting around in flight.

Light-Weight Wood Filler
For filling holes, nicks, and dents after assembly of the model, but before covering. Regular household "wall repair" or "spackling" compound (3M, Red Devil, DAP, etc.) works well for this. There are also several excellent "model fillers" available at the hobby shop. Just make sure whatever you use is light weight and sands easily. Do not use household patching plaster - it's way too heavy!

There are so many different types of glue available today for model airplane construction that it can be confusing to even the experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most model airplane glues can be classified as one of four basic types:


1. Cyanoacrylate Adhesives, such as SIG CA, are very strong and bond in just seconds. Dramatically speeds up building time! Different viscosities and cure times are available to suit all areas of model construction.
2. Two-Part Epoxy Glues, such as SIG-KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure), are super strong but too heavy for general construction. Often used in high stress areas such as the firewall, landing gear, and wing joiners.
3. Water-Based Glues, such as SIG-BOND (aliphatic resin), are very safe and easy to use. Excellent for general construction, although somewhat slow drying.
4. Solvent-Based Model Cement, such as SIG-MENT, is the oldest form of traditional model airplane glue. Still used for general construction by some modelers - especially when building super light weight free flight models.

You could build the 4-STAR 60 using any or all of these four basic types of glue. Each type has different characteristics and advantages, and all of them will result in a bond that is stronger than the materials being glued together. Often times the choice of which type to use boils down to a matter of personal preference based on past experience. However, if you want to get your 4-STAR 60 into the air as quickly as possible, we recommend that you use CA glue for the majority of the assembly of this kit. CA glue is not only fast and strong, but it also makes it possible to do some unique things in the construction sequence. For instance, since CA glue has the ability to penetrate into an already assembled joint, we can first assemble the interlocking fuselage parts "dry" (without glue), then check and adjust the alignment, and finally apply CA to the preassembled joints. This makes it very easy to build a straight and true fuselage in a very short time. If the use of CA glues is new to you, please read "TIPS ON USING SIG CA" below.

Building Board - 12"x38" minimum size
This can be any flat surface that will accept and hold pins - such as insulation board, foam board (cardboard laminated to both sides of a foam sheet), cork bulletin board, soft plywood, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, etc. The most important thing is that the board must be perfectly flat and untwisted! Your wings and tail surfaces will be built on this board, and if the board is twisted or bowed, the parts you build on it will assume the same shape and your model will not fly properly.

NOTE: The building board you'll see us using in the photos in this book is an 18"x50" piece of 3/4" thick plywood (perfectly flat!), with a same sized piece of 1/4" thick foam board stuck down on top of the plywood with double-sided sticky tape. The plywood provides the rigidity and flatness we need, and the semi-flexible foam board lays flat on the plywood and gives us a surface to push pins into. All materials were obtained from the local lumber yard. Insulation board or cork sheet would make a good substitute for the foam board, if that is not available.

80 and 220 Grit Sandpaper
We prefer either garnet or silicone carbide type open-coat sandpaper. Use the 80 grit to rough sand and shape parts. Use the 220 grit to fine sand the entire model prior to covering. Sand with the grain of the wood whenever possible. Always use fresh, sharp sandpaper. Sharp sandpaper will cut through glue and hard materials easily, giving an even surface. Dull sandpaper will require more pressure and may gouge the surface.

Sanding Blocks
The instructions will call for you to sand some parts of the model using a "sanding block", which is simply a piece of sandpaper backed up by a solid, flat block of wood, plastic, or whatever. A sanding block will give you a much flatter, truer result than you would get with an unbacked, limp piece of sandpaper held in your fingertips. An assortment of different size sanding blocks are indispensable tools for all model construction. There are many styles of commercially made sanding blocks available in hobby shops, or you can make your own.

A good general purpose sanding block can be made by wrapping a full-size standard 9"x11" sheet of sandpaper around a piece of hardwood or plywood, as shown here. This is the most commonly used sanding block in our workshop! Use screws or thumbtacks along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper in place. Put 80 grit sandpaper on the block during general construction, and then switch to 220 grit sandpaper for final sanding just before covering (or make yourself two of these blocks, one for each grit sandpaper).

There will be other times when a slightly smaller sanding block is easier to manage. Also, you can make a small sandpaper "file" by simply gluing a strip of 80 grit sandpaper onto a scrap plywood stick. Sandpaper glued or taped to different size hardwood dowels are great for sanding inside curves and holes.

Last but not least, for sanding really large areas, glue 80 grit sandpaper onto a 24" or 36" long piece of aluminum "channel" or 'TBar" stock (most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum extrusions in various sizes and shapes).


How To Use These Instructions

Like a full-size airplane, the 4-STAR 60 is built by first constructing several basic structures - the FUSELAGE, WINGS, STABILIZER, FIN, etc. which are then assembled into a completed airplane. This manual will take you step-by-step through the construction of each basic structure and then the final assembly.

How To Use The Plans

There are two sheets of Plans included in this kit. The plans will be used in several ways. They will help you identify all the parts and determine the relationship of all the parts to each other. They will also be used as a building pattern for the Wing Panels, Stabilizer, and Fin - which will be assembled directly on top of the plans. The plans also show how we would install a typical radio and engine in the 4-STAR 60. By referring to the examples shown on the plan, you should be able to properly install your radio and engine, even if they are not exactly the same as what is shown on the plan.
Everything on the plans is drawn FULL-SCALE, or ACTUAL SIZE to show the correct size, shape, and relationship of all the parts to each other.

Tips On Using SIG CA
SIG CA is a high-purity Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (pronounced "sigh-ano-ack-relate") specially formulated to meet the tough demands of building and flying model airplanes. SIG CA is available in three different viscosities. Each viscosity has different application and cure strength characteristics.

Thin Viscosity = SIG THIN CA
Medium Viscosity = SIG MEDIUM CA
Thick Viscosity = SIG THICK CA


Knowing which viscosity CA glue to use and how much to apply in different types of joints takes some experience. Too much glue causes slow cure, and wastes glue and money. Not enough glue can cause a crash because the joints are weak. Part of the solution is to understand the main material we are trying to glue - balsa wood! The very property that makes balsa so light, the porosity of the big empty cells, makes it draw the glue up into the wood and away from the joint. The first application of CA generally does not leave much glue in the joint, particularly if the balsa is end grain and/or the glue is too thin. A second application of CA glue can finish filling the joint and will leave a small fillet around the joint. A good rule of thumb: If you don't see a slight fillet of glue around a joint, it means the first application of glue has soaked completely into the wood, and you should apply a second coat of CA. Like any other adhesive, we don't want to end up with "gobs" of CA glue on the outside of the joints. Apply just enough glue to wet the joint area and leave a small reinforcing fillet around the joint. That's how you make the strongest joint possible with any glue! Let's discuss how and where each SIG CA product should be used.


SIG THIN CA is thin as water and cures very fast, normally in 1-3 seconds.
THIN CA is used to glue together parts that fit tightly together with no gaps, and that do not require repositioning after the glue is applied. Typically the two parts are mated first, and then THIN CA is flowed along the joint. Capillary action wicks the THIN CA deep into the joint, resulting in a very strong bond. THIN CA sets very rapidly, so do not expect to move parts at all after the glue is applied. THIN CA is ideal for tack gluing assemblies together quickly on the building board (later the joints should be re-glued with Medium CA). Also good for repairs where you have a lot of cracks or torn wood fibers to be glued together. The THIN CA wicks into every nook and cranny of the break and ties the fibers together almost like new. THIN CA can also be used for applying fiberglass cloth reinforcing. THIN CA is the only glue that should be used on SIG EASY HINGES.


SIG MEDIUM CA is medium viscosity and normally cures in about 5-15 seconds.
MEDIUM CA is the general purpose favorite, excellent for almost any step during construction. Many people use it for the majority of their construction. Can be used on less than perfect joints, filling in the minor gaps between the parts. MEDIUM CA can be flowed into an already assembled joint (ala THIN CA),


SIG THICK CA has a thick, syrupy viscosity and the slowest setting time, normally curing in 30-90 seconds. Typically THICK CA is applied to one part before mating to the other part. Longer cure time allows you a few seconds to position the part before the THICK CA "goes off". Cure can be quickened with the use of "accelerator" once the part is positioned. The thick consistency reduces the tendency to run and fills gaps between parts. Ideal for gluing large parts like wing sheets and fuselage doublers. Can also be used to build up strong fillets around joints requiring extra strength.



SIG KWIK-SHOT CA ACCELERATOR - While CA glues are faster curing than any other type of modeling glue, there are still times when we wish we could make it cure "on command". That's where CA ACCELERATOR comes in! It's a special liquid, that comes in a small spray bottle, that makes any type of CA glue set instantly on contact! CA ACCELERATOR is sprayed onto the joint after the glue is applied and after the part is in final position. The ACCELERATOR chemically reacts with the glue causing it to set immediately. ACCELERATOR is most often used with MEDIUM or THICK CA - it should not be used on THIN CA (which cures almost instantly all by itself). Spray on the ACCELERATOR sparingly! Too much can cause CA glue to react too rapidly and literally boil. This will result in a joint with a chalky white color which is not nearly as strong as a normal joint.


SIG CA DEBONDER - A special chemical that softens and loosens dried CA glue so you can un-stick things you didn't mean to glue together - like your fingers! Apply DEBONDER to the area and wait for the glue to soften. Don't rush it! It may take 20 to 30 seconds of soaking to get your fingers back apart. For a thick buildup of glue, you may need several applications of DEBONDER to remove it all..


CURING TIME - The cure times stated for CA glues normally refer to the amount of time it takes for the glue to cure to the point where you can let go of the part and not have to worry about it moving. Even though CA glues reach that point very fast, they are not actually fully cured for some time. The thicker the glue, the longer the total cure time. This is especially true of MEDIUM or THICK CA that has been accelerated. The accelerator makes the glue cure on the surface immediately, but total curing of the glue underneath the surface takes several minutes more. Try not to put any major stress on the glue joint right after it is done. Even a few minutes will see a great increase in the strength of the joint.

CLEAN SURFACES glue better! Any surface contamination reduces the strength of the bond. A quick swipe with sandpaper will prepare most wood joints for a good bond.

DON'T MIX TYPES OF GLUE! Don't "tack" a joint with CA and then go back and re-coat the joint with epoxy or water-based glue - or vice versa. The different bonding mechanisms of these unrelated adhesive families, will interfere with each other and a poor, heavy joint is the result. Use only one type of glue in each joint.

FOR ULTRA-QUICK ASSEMBLY of two large pieces, where positioning is easy, try putting MEDIUM or THICK CA on one of the parts, then spray ACCELERATOR directly onto the other part, and then mate the two parts quickly together. This method can provide an instantaneous bond over a large area.

TO APPLY GLASS CLOTH with CA glue, first spray a VERY LIGHT coat of 3M "77 Spray Adhesive" on the area of the model where the glass cloth is to go. Lay the cloth down and work out all the wrinkles. The spray glue will hold it in place. Apply THIN CA to the glass cloth, let soak in momentarily, and then quickly wipe off the excess with a rag (don't stop moving the rag or it may become glued to the model).

STRONGER SCREW THREADS IN WOOD PARTS - Tired of stripping out threaded wing bolt holes? Try soaking the drilled hole with THIN CA before you tap the threads. Hit the hole with a spray of ACCELERATOR before you start the tap to be sure the glue is cured. Tap the hole, re-soak the threads, spray again with ACCELERATOR, and re-tap the hole. These threads will outlive the rest of the airframe.

EDGE JOINING SHEETS OF BALSA - Layout a sheet of wax paper longer than the joint. Spray a wet coat of ACCELERATOR on the wax paper where the seam will be. Lay the balsa sheets together over the sprayed area. While holding the sheets together, lay a small bead of THIN CA on the joint. The ACCELERATOR on the waxed paper will keep the THIN CA from running down the backside of the joint. This greatly reduces the sanding to get smooth joints.

FOR MOUNTING CANOPIES with CA glue try this trick. Spray a fine line of ACCELERATOR along the inside bottom edge of the canopy, position the canopy, and apply a thin bead of THICK CA to the outside of the seam. The THICK CA will be drawn under the edge of the canopy slow enough that the ACCELERATOR triggers the cure before it actually gets under the edge - no more fogging!!

WARNING TO PAINTERS! On models that are to be painted, try not to use ACCELERATOR directly under any final color coats, particularly with epoxy paints. Many color paints will show a stain from the accelerator. CA glue and ACCELERATOR should be "buried" under a coat of good primer before the color coats are applied.


DEBONDER FOR CLEANUP - After you've completed final assembly of a model finished with iron-on plastic film covering, clean up any CA glue smears with a rag wet with DEBONDER. The DEBONDER won't harm the plastic film. CAUTION: Do not use DEBONDER on painted models, decals, or canopies - it may dissolve or mark them!

CA GLUES ARE NOT FOR - styrene or polystyrene foam; or "slippery" or "waxy" plastics like nylon, teflon, polyethylene, polypropylene, etc.

CAUTION: Some people may experience allergic reactions when exposed to fumes from cyanoacrylate glue. It is always recommended that CA glue, as well as all other glues, paints, thinners, and solvents, be used with adaquete ventilation to carry fumes away. A fan is recommended. In many cases "foam friendly"or "odorless"CA may allow an allergic modeler to use a CA glue.

Warning! This Is Not A Toy!

Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys! Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to ground test the finished model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a safe manner.
The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, sometimes referred to as the AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe operation of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not mandatory, it is a good idea and we encourage all new R/C fliers to join the AMA. Membership in the AMA provides you with important liability insurance protection in case your R/C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. For more information, contact:

5161 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Telephone: (765) 287-1256


Right Wing Panel


  1. Locate the six 1/4"x1/2"x36" balsa sticks. Cut two of the sticks to make four pieces 17-1/2" long. These are the spar doublers.
  2. Using epoxy or THICK CA glue a spar doubler to one end of each of the 1/4"x1/2"x 36" balsa sticks. These are the main spars. Make sure the spars are kept straight while the glue is curing. Any bends or twists built in now are there to stay!


  1. Tape the wing plan down to the building board and cover it with waxed paper. Pin down one of the main spar assemblies in place on the plan, making certain that outboard end of the doubler is positioned at the last W-4 wing rib. Place the pins at an angle so they will not interfere with the spar webbing. Pin down a 1/4"x1/4"x36" balsa stick for the rear spar.
  2. The 3/32"x2"x36" balsa trailing edge sheet is provided extra wide so that the forward edge can be cut straight with a long straightedge. Pin the bottom trailing edge sheet in place, aligning the front edge with the plans.
  3. Place a scrap of 3/32" balsa near the main spar to accurately space the first four ribs up from the building board. This shim makes space for the center sheeting to be added later.
  4. Position all the ribs (W-1 through W-5), main and rear spar webs and diagonal wing braces (0-1 and 0-2) on the front and rear spars. Do not glue now.


  1. Use the dihedral gauge side of the laser cut plywood dual tool to set the root rib (W-1) at the proper dihedral angle (2). Glue the root rib to the spars and trailing edge sheet.
  2. Glue all the previously positioned pieces.


  1. Glue the pre-shaped 5/16"x5/16"x36" balsa leading edge to the leading edge of the wing ribs.
  2. Cut and sand the dihedral angle on one end of the 1" x 1" angled shaped wing dowel support blocks. When the angle and length are correct glue the block in place between the two W-1 wing ribs and the leading edge.
  3. With a X-Acto saw cut the two W-1 wing ribs in half where the laser cut guides are. This leaves space for the dihedral brace.
  4. Glue in the top main spar and the top rear spar. It is critical that you get a good glue joint between the spar webs and the spars, both top and bottom. Use the dual tool to keep the W-1 rib at the correct angle.


    1. Form an aileron servo lead tube by wrapping one of the supplied pieces of 5"x17-1/2" plain white paper around a dowel or a small broom handle. Slide the tube into the holes in the center wing ribs and glue in place. When the glue has cured cut the paper tube off at the second W-1 rib
    2. Glue the pre-shaped 1/4"x1/2"x36" balsa trailing edge to the top of the trailing edge sheet and the ends of the wing ribs. Sand the top of the trailing edge flush with the rear edge of the ribs.
    3. Cut and sand the dihedral angle on one end of the pre-shaped 1/2"x1" trailing edge fill-in blocks. When the angle and length are correct glue the block in place between the two W-l wing ribs on the trailing edge sheet.


    Trim one edge of a 3/32"x2"x36" balsa trailing edge sheet straight. For this step it is recommended that you apply SIG-Bond to the top of the trailing edge, and the ribs. Pin the trailing edge sheet and the trailing edge to the board to keep them straight until the glue cures.
    NOTE: Remove any pins from the structure that are located under the area where the top center sheets will be installed. If you leave out this step you may find it difficult to remove the wing from the building board after the next step.
    All of the wing center section sheets are cut from the 3/32"x4"x36" balsa provided.


    1. Cut the top center piece that fits between the trailing edge sheet and the rear spar. Trim and sand the sheet to fit and glue it in place. SIG-BOND is recommended for gluing all of the center sheets to the ribs and spars as it is easier to sand the joints smooth.
    2. Cut, fit and glue the rest of the top center sheets.
    3. After the glue on the center section sheets has cured cut two 3/16"x1/2" slots in the top leading edge sheet at the W-3 wing rib. Glue the two 3/16"x3/16"x36" top forward spars in these slots and in the top of all of the ribs. When the glue has cured remove the wing panel from the building board.


    Now is the time to go back over every joint using MEDIUM or THICK CA. Don't be stingy here - the integrity of your wing depends upon strong glue joints. Glue BOTH sides of EVERY joint, even the aileron servo lead tube.



    Cut, fit and glue a bottom center sheet between the trailing edge sheet and the rear spar.


    1. On both ends of the wing panel cut off and sand flush any excess materials.
    2. Although the leading edge is pre-shaped, it should be blended into the leading edge sheet and the ribs with a long sanding block. Trim and sand the overhanging portion of the trailing edge sheets flush with the trailing edge.
    3. Sand the top center sheets smooth. Cut a 3/4" square or round access hole in the top center sheet as shown on the plan.

    Left Wing Panel


    Repeat steps 2 through 9 to build the left wing panel. BE CAREFUL, DO NOT BUILD TWO RIGHT OR TWO LEFT WING PANELS.

    Joining The Wing Panels


    1. Trial fit the two wing panels with the 1/8" laser cut plywood dihedral brace installed between the main wing spars. Be certain that the dihedral brace is not preventing the panels from making solid contact with each other at the center. If necessary, trim or sand the dihedral brace for a snug fit. The 2 dihedral per wing panel will automatically be built-in by the dihedral brace. If you want to check the angle, place the wing on the table so that one side sits flat, and the other is raised. The bottom of the raised wingtip should be about 1-7/8" above the surface of the table. A variation of up to 1/2" either way is acceptable and will not affect flight performance. Most important is to have a tight joint at the wing center with no gaps.
    2. Use epoxy (either SIG 5-MINUTE or SLOW-CURE) to join the two wing panels. Apply glue generously to the end ribs and the dihedral brace. Work some glue into the slot in each wing root. Carefully slide the wing halves into place and hold in place with tape or pins. Wipe away any excess epoxy that oozes from the center joint with a paper towel or a rag dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Before the glue cures, make sure that the leading and trailing edges of both panels are perfectly aligned and that there is no built-in twist. Let cure.

    Completing The Wing


    1. While you still have access through the bottom of the wing, check the glue joint around the wing hold-down blocks and the dihedral brace. If necessary, apply another coat of epoxy to the joints.
    2. Finish installing the bottom wing center sheets using pieces cut from 3/32"x4"x36" balsa.
    3. After the glue on the center section sheets has cured cut two 3/16"x1/2" slots in the bottom leading edge sheet at the W-3 wing rib in both right and left wing panels. Glue the four 3/16"x3/16"x36" forward spars in these slots and in the bottom of all of the ribs. When the glue has cured, sand the forward spars flush with the tip ribs.
    4. Glue the laser cut lite-ply wingtip to the outboard end of both wing panels.
    5. Give the wing a final sanding. Sand just enough to take off any prominent high spots or bumps. Excessive sanding will distort the airfoil shape.



    2" wide fiberglass tape can be applied to the wing center joint (top and bottom) using the following method:
    1. Cut the tape to length - one piece from trailing edge, around the leading edge and back to the trailing edge.
    2. Lightly spray one side of the tape with a spray adhesive such as 3M "77".
    3. Center the tape on the wing center joint and press in place all the way around the wing.
    4. Flow THIN CA glue into the tape with a side-to-side motion. As the glass tape turns clear move down the tape until the complete length of the tape is glued. Remove any extra glue with a clean rag. Try not to flood the tape with excess glue as it will cure quickly, causing bumps and snags in the tape - bummer, more sanding.
    5. When the CA has cured, sand the joint lightly to remove any rough spots. Try not to sand into the fiberglass tape itself.


    Glue the two laser cut 1/16" plywood wing hold down plates to the bottom of the wing, flush with the wing trailing edge and centered on the wing joint.


    Sand the trailing edge of the ailerons round. Sand two 300 bevels on the leading edge of the ailerons with a sanding block. A pencil line drawn down the center of the ailerons will help keep the bevels symmetrical.


    Tape the aileron to the wing with the outboard end of the aileron slightly past the wingtip. Sand the outboard end of the aileron flush and square with the wingtip.

    Aileron Servo Installation


    1. Cut four hatch rails from the special-cut 1/4"x1/2"x16" basswood stick provided in the kit. Glue the hatch rails flush with the bottom edge of the W-4 wing ribs in each wing panel. The hatch rails provide a seat for the aileron hatch and a flat surface for attaching the covering material.
    2. Lay one laser cut 1/16" plywood hatch on the right wing panel rails and drill four 1/16" holes in the rails using the holes in the hatch as a guide. The hatch is held in place with four #2 x3/8" sheet metal screws.
    3. Repeat step 17b. for the other hatch. Be sure to mark each hatch so you can tell later which hatch goes with which wing panel!
    4. Cut four 3/8"x1/2"x7/8" pieces out of the 3/8"x1/2"x6" basswood to use as aileron servo mounts.
    5. Place a 1/32" shim the size of the aileron servo on the workbench. Lay the servo down on the shim and stand the basswood mounts on end on the workbench and against the servo. Mark the location of the servo mounting screws and drill four 1/16" pilot holes for the screws.
    6. Mount the servo to the basswood mounts using the grommets, eyelets and screws included with your radio.
    7. Position the servo with mounts on the hatch cover and center the servo arm in the slot. Glue the servo mounts to the hatch cover. When the glue has cured remove the servo from the mounts and apply a second coat of glue to the mount and hatch cover.
    8. Repeat steps 17e. through 17g. for the other aileron servo. Be careful, make a left and a right servo/hatch assembly.



    1. Mount one hatch/servo assembly in the wing. Using the plan as a guide make an aileron pushrod from a 4-40 x8" threaded rod, a 4-40 solder clevis, and a 4-40 threaded clevis. The actual length of the pushrod may vary slightly based on the shape and position of the aileron servo.
    2. Connect solder clevis end of the pushrod to the servo arm. Swing the push rod towards the aileron, keeping it parallel to the ribs, and mark the position of the pushrod on the aileron.
    3. The small nylon control horns, one right and one left, are used on the left and right ailerons, respectively.
      NOTE: The aileron servo must be centered electronically before continuing.
    4. Center the upright portion of the control horn on the aileron at the mark made in step b. Vertically line up the clevis attachment holes with the point of the leading edge bevel. Mark the position of the control horn mounting holes and drill a 5/64" hole at each mark.
    5. Reinforce the control horn area by soaking the wood around the two holes with THIN CA. This will help keep the nylon horn from crushing the balsa when the control horn is installed later. When the glue has cured redrill the holes.


    Repeat steps 18a through 18e. for the other aileron servo.