Sig Mfg. Co., Inc...401-7 South Front Street....Montezuma, Iowa 50171



In order for your HOG-BIPE to fly as well as it was designed to, it must be carefully assembled. A model airplane that is not built properly will not fly properly! Remember to work slowly and follow the instructions exactly. SIG, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a proven aerodynamic design, quality materials, and detailed instructions, but ultimately the flyability of your finished model depends on how well YOU put it all together.

Customer Service

Sig Mfg. Co. is totally committed to your success in building and flying the HOG-BIPE. Should you encounter any problem building this kit, or find any missing or damaged parts, feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.

P.O. Box 520
401 South Front Street
Montezuma, IA 50171-0520 USA
PHONE: (641) 623-5154 FAX: (641) 623-3922

Flying machines of any form, either model-size or full-size, are not toys! Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly, they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions, to ground test the finished model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy, and to always fly your model in a safe location and in a safe manner.

The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, sometimes referred to as the AMA. The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe operation of R/C model airplanes. While AMA membership is not mandatory, it is a good idea and we encourage all new R/C fliers to join the AMA. Membership in the AMA provides you with important liability insurance protection in case your R/C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else.
For more information, contact: ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
5161 East Memorial Drive Muncie, IN 47302
Phone: (765) 287-1256

Die-Cut Balsa
13/32"x3"x18" Die-Cut Sht.1;W-1T Balsa Wing Ribs 13/32"x3"x18" Die-Cut Sht.2;W-1B, W-2 Balsa Wing Ribs 83/32"x3"x18" Die-Cut Sht.3;W-2 Balsa Wing Ribs 13/32"x4"x15" Die-Cut Sht.4; F-1A,F-2,F-4,F-5A,SBR-1,SBR-2,WTR
Balsa Sheet
11/16"x3"x48" Leading Edge Sheeting (Top Wing) 61/16"x3"x24" Leading Edge Sheeting (Top & Bottom Wing) 41/16"x1-1/4"x24" Trailing Edge Sheeting (Bottom Wing) 21/16"x1-1/4"x48" Trailing Edge Sheeting (Top Wing)
41/16"x3"x30" Stabilizer Sheeting 41/16"x3"x30" Fuselage Top Deck Sheeting 11/16"x4"x36" Wingtip Sheeting 31/16"x2"x36" Wing Center Sheeting
Balsa Sticks
21/4"x1/4"x36" Stabilizer Frame 11/4"x1/2"x48" Main Spar (Top Wing) 81/4"x1/2"x24" Main Spars (Bottom Wing), Stabilizer Leading Edge 11/4"x1/2"x36" Stabilizer Trailing Edge, Fin Post
21/4"x3/4"x48" Wing Trailing Edge 53/16"x3/16"x36" Top Deck Stringers 61/16"x1/4"x36" Cap Strips 11/16"x1/2"x36" Cap Strips
11/2" Trianglex24" Braces for Firewall, Bottom Wing Mount Blocks, Landing Gear Plate 11/4" Trianglex12" Brace for Top Wing Mount Plate 11/4"x1"x15" Cowl Fairing Blocks
Balsa Blocks
25/8"x5/8"x6" Tail Fairing Blocks
Special-Cut Balsa
21"x1"x3" B-5 Bottom Wing L.E. Blocks 11"x1"x1-1/2" B-4 Top Wing L.E. Block 11/2"x1-1/2"x8" Top Wing Center Section T.E. 21/2"x1-1/2"x2-1/2" Bottom Wing Center Section T.E.
25/16x48" Leading Edge 41/2"x1-1/2"x24" Ailerons 23/8"x3"x12" Elevators 11/4"x3"x12" Rudder
181/16"x2-13/16"x1-1/8" Spar Webbing


Sawn Plywood
21/32"x1"x2" Birch 3-ply; P-9 Wing Bolt Plates
Laser-Cut Parts
11/4" 5-ply Birch Firewall 11/4" 5-ply Birch Landing Gear Plate 11/16" 3-ply Birch P-6 Top Cabane Mount Plate 11/16" 3-ply Birch P-7 Center Cabane Mount Plate
11/8" 3-ply Birch P-8 Bottom Cabane Mount Plate 11/8" 3-ply Birch DB Dihedral Brace 11/8" 3-ply Birch TWB Top Wing Brace 11/8" 3-ply Birch F-3B
21/8" 3-ply Birch P-5 Wheel Pant Plates 21/8" 3-ply Birch P-3 I-Strut Bottom Mount 21/8" 3-ply Birch P-2 I-Strut Top Mount 21/8" 3-ply Birch P-1 Top Wing Mount Plate
21/8" Lite-Ply Fuselage Sides 41/8" Lite-Ply Wingtip Supports 11/8" Lite-Ply FTF Fuselage Top Front 11/8" Lite-Ply FBF Fuselage Bottom Front
11/8" Lite-Ply FBR Fuselage Bottom Rear 11/8" Lite-Ply TWM Tailwheel Mount 11/8" Lite-Ply Tank Floor 41/8" Lite-Ply Wingtips
41/8" Lite-Ply P-4 Cabane Mount Supports 21/8" Lite-Ply Fuselage Doublers 11/8" Lite-Ply F-5B Pushrod Support 11/8" Lite-Ply Stab Mount
21/8" Lite-Ply I-Struts 11/8" Lite-Ply F-3 11/8" Lite-Ply F-5 11/8" Lite-Ply Dihedral Gauge
11/8" Lite-Ply F-6 11/8" Lite-Ply F-7 11/8" Lite-Ply F-8 11/4" Balsa S-1
11/4" Balsa S-2 21/4" Balsa S-3 11/4" Balsa F-1 11/4" Balsa F-2
11/4" Balsa F-3 81/4" Balsa WTB Wingtip Blocks
21/2x5/8x1-1/8" Maple; B-1 Top Wing Mount Blocks 21/2"x3/4"x1-5/8" Basswood; B-2 Bottom Wing Mount Blocks 43/8"x1-1/4"x3/4" Basswood; B-3 Cabane Mount Blocks 13/8"x3/8"x12" Basswood; Servo Rails
21/4" Dia.x1-1/2" Wing Dowels
Wire Parts
62-56x10" Threaded Rods; Elev, Rud, Ail Pushrods 24-40x8" Threaded Rods; Aileron Interplane Pushrods 11/16" Dia. Tailwheel Wire, bent 11/8" Dia. Elevator Joiner Wire, bent
24-40 Aileron Torque Rods, bent 1 left & 1 right
4#2x3/4" Sheet Metal Screws; Elev, Rud Horns 8#2x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws; Aileron Horns 2#4x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws; Tailwheel Bracket 44-40x3/4" Pan Head Bolts; Cabane Strut Mounts
44-40x3/8" Mounting Bolts: Wheel Pants 36-32x1/2" Mounting Bolts; Landing Gear 46-32x1" Mounting Bolts; Motor Mounts 28-32x1-1/2" Mounting Bolts; Axles
68-32 Hex Nuts; Axles 24-40 Hex Nuts; Aileron Interplane Pushrods 144-40 Blind Nuts; Cabane Struts, I-Struts, Wheel Pants 76-32 Blind Nuts; Motor Mounts, Landing Gear
28-32 Blind Nuts; Top Wing Mount 10#4 Flat Metal Washers; Cabane Struts, I-Struts 2#8 Flat Metal Washers; wheel spacers 2#2 Flat Metal Washers; Tailwheel retainers
4Nylon Interconnect Horns For Ailerons 1Medium Nylon Control Horn (RIGHT); Rudder 1Medium Nylon Control Horn (LEFT); Elevator 28-32x1" Nylon Bolts; Top Wing
21/4-20x1" Nylon Bolts; Bottom Wing 64-40x3/8" Socket-Head Bolts; I-Strut Mount 24-40 Nylon Aileron Connectors 1Nylon Tailwheel Bracket
42-56 Nylon R/C Links; Control End of Rud, Elev, Ail Pushrods 52-56 Solder Links; Servo End of Rud, Elev, Throt, Ail Pushrods 24-40 Solder Links; Ail Interplane Pushrods 24-40 Metal R/C Links; Ail Interplane Pushrods
2Glass-Filled Motor Mounts
Plastic Parts
1.070 ABS Molded Headrest 1Set .070 ABS Molded Wheelpants
1.090 Tempered Aluminum Main Gear, formed 2.060 Un-Tempered Aluminum Cabane Struts, formed 1.030 3-1/2"x8" Clear Plastic Sheet; Windshield 2.200 O.D.x36" Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubing; Elev, Rud
2.270 O.D.x36" Nylon Outer Pushrod Tubing; Elev, Rud 1.130 O.D.x18" Nylon Inner Tubing; Throttle Pushrod 11/16" Dia.x18" Steel Cable; Throttle Pushrod 13-piece Pushrod Connector Assembly; Carb End of Throttle Pushrod
11"x24" Fiberglass Tape; Bottom Wing Center Joint 12"x6" Fiberglass Tape; Cabane Mount 27Easy Hinges 1Full-Size Plan Plate #1
1Full-Size Plan Plate #2 1Photo-Illustrated Instruction Book 17-3/4"x10" Decal Sheet 17-1/2"x27" Decal Sheet

Wood Parts Identification

Wood parts such as standard stick and sheet stock, leading edges, trailing edges, ailerons, elevator, etc., are all easily identifiable by comparing their shape and dimensions to the plans and the "HOG-BIPE COMPLETE PARTS LIST"; therefore we did not feel that there was any need to label these parts. On the other hand, proper identification of the different wing ribs, wing sheeting, fuselage formers, etc., can be confusing because some of them are very similar looking, but in fact they are quite different. Wherever possible, we have labeled (printed) these parts.


Key To
Laser-Cut Parts

Thirty-Eight of the HOG-BIPE parts are laser-cut and do not have their part name/number pre-printed on them. Use a pencil to mark each of the laser-cut parts according to these diagrams.

NOTE: The edges of all the laser-cut parts have a "burnt" appearance varying from light brown to dark black, depending upon the thickness and type of material the part is made of. Our tests indicate that a slight discoloration of the edges does not significantly affect the bonding ability of these parts. However we recommend that the black edges of former F1, made of 1/4" thick plywood, be lightly sanded with an 80 grit sanding block to remove the loose black soot. Itís not necessary to sand every bit of black off (you donít want to change the size of the part). Sand until you can run your finger lightly over the edge without picking up any black color (see photos of sanded F1 in the fuselage section).

About The Wood In The Kit

We strive to supply good quality materials in all SIG kits. However wood is a highly variable material (unlike man-made plastic or metal), so every single wood part in a kit will probably not have flawless appearance. Often things that look like an imperfection are actually quite acceptable when you consider the function the part will serve. Mineral stains and tiny knots do not seriously affect balsa wood strength. Also, there is a natural tendency for some balsa sticks and sheets to immediately bow upon being cut off from a perfectly square block due to internal stresses in the wood. In most cases, bows in wood parts (such as leading edges) readily straighten out as they are glued into a structural unit. Likewise Lite-Ply fuselage sides, formers, and doublers that are warped will usually straighten right out when they are glued in place.If you are in doubt about the suitability of any part in your kit for it's intended purpose, call or write to us for assistance and/or a replacement part.


Additional Compnents Needed

The following items are not supplied in this kit but are needed to complete the HOG-BIPE. Because of the wide variety of brands available and the influence of personal preferences, the choice of these items is left to the builder to select. All of these items are available from your local hobby shop.
  • .60 to .65 cu. in. 2-Stroke Glow R/C Engine w/Muffler, or .65 to .80 cu. in. 4-Stroke Glow R/C Engine w/Muffler 12 oz. fuel tank, 3 inch main wheels, and one inch tail wheel.

    Engines larger than those listed are not recommended! Use of oversize engines will cause balance problems and may overload the structure of the airplane. Any normally ported .60 2-stroke glow R/C engine will provide adequate power to fly the HOG-BIPE. We believe that the .65 2-stroke glow R/C engine will be the most commonly used engine in the HOG-BIPE, so that is what weíve shown on the full-size plans and in these instructions.

  • Radio Control System

    You will need a (minimum) 4-channel radio control system with 4 servos to operate the ailerons, elevator, rudder, and engine throttle of your HOG-BIPE. The HOG-BIPEís fuselage is spacious enough that any common brand of radio equipment with standard size servos and battery pack can be used. Be certain that your radio system transmits on one of the FCC-approved frequencies for R/C model aircraft.

  • 1/2" x 8" x 12" Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIGRF240)

    Used to protect your radio receiver and battery pack from damaging engine vibration. Also used as packing around the fuel tank and radio components to keep them from shifting around in flight.

  • Light-Weight Wood Filler

    For filling holes, nicks, and dents after assembly of the model, but before covering. Regular household "wall repair" or "spackling" compound (3M, Red Devil, DAP, etc.) works well for this. There are also several excellent "model fillers" available at the hobby shop. Just make sure whatever you use is light weight and sands easily. Do not use household patching plaster - it's way too heavy!

  • Glue

    There are so many different types of glue available today for model airplane construction that it can be confusing to even the experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most model airplane glues can be classified as one of four basic types:

    1. Cyanoacrylate Adhesives, such as SIG CA, are very strong and bond in just seconds. Dramatically speeds up building time! Different vicosity's and cure times are available to suit all areas of model construction.

    2. Two-Part Epoxy Glues, such as SIG-KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure), are super strong but too heavy for general construction. Often used in high stress areas such as the firewall, landing gear, and wing joiners.

    3. Water-Based Glues, such as SIG-BOND (aliphatic resin), are very safe and easy to use. Excellent for general construction, although somewhat slow drying.

    4. Solvent-Based Model Cement, such as SIG-MENT, is the oldest form of traditional model airplane glue. Still used for general construction by some modelers - especially when building super light weight free flight models.

    You could build the HOG-BIPE using any of these four basic types of glue. Each type has different characteristics and advantages, and all of them will result in a bond that is stronger than the wood materials being glued together. Often times the choice of which type to use boils down to a matter of personal preference based on past experience. However, if you want to get your HOG-BIPE into the air as quickly as possible, we recommend that you use CA glue for the majority of the assembly of this kit. CA glue is not only fast and strong, but it also makes it possible to do some unique things in the construction sequence. For instance, since CA glue has the ability to penetrate into an already assembled joint, we can first assemble the interlocking fuselage parts "dry" (without glue), then check and adjust the alignment, and finally apply CA to the pre-assembled joints.This makes it very easy to build a straight and true fuselage in a very short time. If the use of CA glues is new to you, please read "TIPS ON USING SIG CA", included in this kit.


  • Building Board - 12" x 50" minimum size

    This can be any flat surface that will accept and hold pins - such as insulation board, foam board (cardboard laminated to both sides of a foam sheet), cork bulletin board, soft plywood, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, etc. The most important thing is that the board must be perfectly flat and untwisted! Your wings and tail surfaces will be built on this board, and if the board is twisted or bowed, the parts you build on it will assume the same shape and your model will not fly properly.

    NOTE: The building board you'll see us using in the photos in these instructions is an 18" x 50" piece of 3/4" thick plywood (perfectly flat!), with a same sized piece of 1/4" thick foam board stuck down on top of the plywood with double-sided sticky tape. The plywood provides the rigidity and flatness we need, and the semi-flexible foam board lays flat on the plywood and gives us a surface to push pins into. All materials were obtained from the local lumber yard. Insulation board or cork sheet would make a good substitute for the foam board, if that is not available.

  • 80 and 220 Grit Sandpaper

    We prefer either garnet or silicone carbide type open-coat sandpaper. Use the 80 grit to rough sand and shape parts. Use the 220 grit to fine sand the entire model prior to covering. Sand with the grain of the wood whenever possible. Always use fresh, sharp sandpaper. Sharp sandpaper will cut through glue and hard materials easily, giving an even surface. Dull sandpaper will require more pressure and may gouge the surface.
  • Sanding Blocks

    The instructions will call for you to sand some parts of the model using a "sanding block", which is simply a piece of sandpaper backed up by a solid, flat block of wood, plastic, or whatever. A sanding block will give you a much flatter, truer result than you would get with an unbacked, limp piece of sandpaper held in your fingertips. An assortment of different size sanding blocks are indispensable tools for all model construction. There are many styles of commercially made sanding blocks available in hobby shops, or you can make your own.

    A good general purpose sanding block can be made by wrapping a full-size standard 9"x11" sheet of sandpaper around a piece of hardwood or plywood, as shown below. This is the most commonly used sanding block in our workshop! Use screws or thumbtacks along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper in place. Put 80 grit sandpaper on the block during general construction, and then switch to 220 grit sandpaper for final sanding just before covering (or make yourself two of these blocks, one for each grit sandpaper).

    There will be other times when a slightly smaller sanding block is easier to manage. Also, you can make a small sandpaper "file" by simply gluing a strip of 80 grit sandpaper onto a scrap plywood stick. Sandpaper glued or taped to different size hardwood dowels are great for sanding inside curves and holes.

    Last but not least, for sanding really large areas, glue 80 grit sandpaper onto a 24" or 36" long piece of aluminum "channel" or "T-Bar" stock (most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum extrusions in various sizes and shapes).

How To Use These Instructions

Like a full-size airplane, the HOG-BIPE is built by first constructing several basic structures - the FUSELAGE, WINGS, STABILIZER, FIN, etc. - which are then assembled into a completed airplane. These instructions will take you step-by-step through the construction of each basic structure and then the final assembly.

How To Use The Plans

There are two sheets of Plans included in this kit. The plans will be used in several ways. They will help you identify all the parts and determine the relationship of all the parts to each other. They will also be used as a building pattern for the Wing Panels, Stabilizer, and Fin - which will be assembled directly on top of the plans. The plans also show how we would install a typical radio and engine in the HOG-BIPE. By referring to the examples shown on the plan, you should be able to properly install your radio and engine, even if they are not exactly the same as what is shown on the plan.

Everything on the plans is drawn FULL-SCALE, or ACTUAL SIZE (except for the Wing Front view.) to show the correct size, shape, and relationship of all the parts to each other.



Before starting fuselage construction there are a few subassemblies that should be built and set aside until needed. This is done to avoid interruptions during the flow of the fuselage construction.
NOTE: You need to have the engine that you will be using on hand when working on the firewall. We donít recommend using the motor mounts provided in this kit for any two cycle engine larger than .65 or for any four cycle engine larger than .80.



Using the laser marks draw the vertical and horizontal centerlines that will locate the engine. Use the F-1 cross section drawing on the plan as a guide. Check the width of your engine and determine the spacing needed between the motor mounts. Using the lines on the firewall, locate the mounts, mark the location of the four holes on the firewall and drill the four holes with a 3/16" drill.


Bolt the engine mounts loosely to the firewall with four 6-32 bolts and blind mounting nuts. Double check the location and spacing of the mounts. Now tighten the bolts until the prongs of the blind nuts are started into the wood and holding. Remove the motor mounts from the firewall and seat the blind nuts with a hammer. Spread epoxy glue over the blind nuts to hold them in place. Be careful not to get any glue in the threads of the blind nuts. When dry, bolt the nuts to the firewall.


Glue balsa former F1A on the back of the firewall (same side as the blind nuts).


Using the side view of the plans as a guide position the engine on the mounts so the propeller will clear the fuselage "cheeks" by 1/8" to a 1/4" and mark the engine mounting holes. Keep the as far back on the motor mounts as possible. Remove the mounts from the firewall and drill the holes for the engine mounting bolts. Bolt the engine to the motor mounts, the motor mounts to the firewall and mark the location for the throttle pushrod to pass through the firewall. Allow clearance for the throttle pushrod connector included in the hardware package. Drill an 9/64" hole at this mark for the outer housing of the flexible cable.


Glue balsa former F-5A to lite-ply former F-5.


A laser cut piece of plywood 1/4"x1-5/8"x3-7/8Ē is used for the landing gear plate. Bolt the landing gear loosely to landing gear plate with three 6-32 x1/2" bolts and blind mounting nuts. Now tighten the bolts until the prongs of the blind nuts are started into the wood and holding. Remove the landing gear LGM and seat the blind nuts with a hammer. Spread epoxy glue over the blind nuts to hold them in place. Be careful not to get any glue in the threads of the blind nuts.


Glue former F-3 to former F3B, making sure the bottom edge lines up. When dry, clean up the two 1/4" holes from F3 through F3B.



Glue the fuselage doublers to the fuselage sides with slow CA or epoxy. MAKE ONE LEFT AND ONE RIGHT. Keep the sides flat with pins or weights until the glue has cured.


Mark and sand a bevel on the bottom of the firewall to match the angle of the bottom of the fuselage. Make sure the angle is facing the correct direction.


5c. Using the fuselage side view as a guide locate the position of the cabane mount supports (P-4) on the inside of the fuselage sides and glue them in place on the right and left fuselage sides. Be sure to space the four P-4 parts 1/8Ē from the top edge of the fuselage side. Position the four cabane mounting blocks (B-3) in the four P-4 (flush with the tops of P-4) and glue them in place. Keep the slot in the cabane mounting blocks free of glue.


Drill a 9/64" hole through the fuselage side and B-3 at the two holes on each fuselage side. Glue one 4-40 blind mounting nut in each of the four B-3. Clean debris from the slot in each B-3.


Glue the lite ply tail wheel mount (TWM) to the aft end of the fuselage bottom rear (FBR).




Using a triangle as a guide glue formers F-1 and F-3 to one of the fuselage sides. Former F-3 is installed with F-3B facing the front of the fuselage. If you look carefully you will see that F-1 has 1-1/2 degrees of downthrust built-in.


After the glue has cured place the other fuselage side on the formers, check for square and parallel and glue in place.


Place fuselage formers F-5, F-6, F-7 and F-8 in place between the fuselage sides. Place a rubber band around the fuselage at each former location to hold everything together tightly. Check that former F-7 is facing the correct way for the pushrod guide holes.


One at a time slide the lite-ply parts fuselage bottom rear (FBR), fuselage top front (FTF) and the stab support under the rubber bands until they all snap into their correct location between the fuselage sides.



Place the fuselage over the top view of the plans to check the alignment of the parts. Even if some of the plywood parts are badly warped the interlocking design is designed to be self aligning and should pull everything into position. If there are any persistent warps or twists now is the time to fix them. Once the fuselage is glued it canít be straightened. Double check that the opening at the back of the fuselage is square with the fuselage top. If necessary, gently twist or push the parts in the desired direction - use masking tape to hold the correct shape.


Glue all of the parts permanently in place. Work from the inside of the fuselage, using medium CA. Start with small spots of glue in the corners, rechecking the alignment as you go. Now go back and glue all of the joints on both sides. Leave the rubber bands and tape in place until all of the glue has completely cured.


c. Glue 1/2" triangular stock in the corners between the firewall and the fuselage sides. You may have to notch the triangular stock to clear the blind nuts.


Now is a good time to install the tank floor. The height of the floor can be adjusted for different engines, just be sure to leave enough room for the tank. Block the tank in position with pieces of balsa, foam rubber or Styrofoam. If you use an oversize tank it may not be possible to install the tank later on, so hook everything up correctly now. If you use the recommended tank size the tank can be installed after the airplane is covered or painted.


Remove the tank and glue in the nylon tubing for the throttle pushrod. Slide the tank back into position, insert the steel cable throttle pushrod and check for any binding. Correct any problems now as you canít get at this area later on.



Install the landing gear plate in the fuselage. Donít be stingy with the glue.


Cut two lengths of 1/2" of balsa triangular stock to serve as braces for the landing gear mount and glue in place. Use plenty of glue and get a strong joint. A small fillet will increase the strength and assure you that you have enough glue on this critical area.


Tape the fuselage bottom front (FBF) in place and glue with medium CA. Pay particular attention to the joint between FBF and the landing gear mount and glue both the outside and inside of this area.
Note: The hole in FBF is provided to serve as an oil drain hole as well as a convenient place to route the vent line from the fuel tank and/or the breather line from the crankcase of a four-stroke engine.



Glue balsa formers F-2 and F-4 in the correct slots in FTF.


Cut the front stringers to the correct length from 3/16Ē square balsa and glue in place.


Cut the rear stringers to the correct length from 3/16Ē square balsa. Notice that the center stringer is the only stringer that fits into former F-8. The other two stingers butt against the face of F-8. The lower stringer butt against the face of former F-7. Glue the stringers in place.


After the glue has dried sand the stringers flush with the formers, both front and rear.



Roughly trim a sheet of 1/16"x3"x24" balsa to fit the area to be covered. Wet the the outside of the sheet with either water, methanol or a weak solution of ammonia and water. Tape the sheet in place over the formers. Do all four pieces of sheeting at once and leave until dry.


Sheet the top front of the fuselage using the formed pieces of 1/16"x3"x24" balsa from step 11a. The front sheeting goes from F-1 to F-5. Sheet the top rear of the fuselage using the formed pieces of 1/16"x3"x24" balsa from step 11a.The rear sheeting goes from F-5A to F-8.


c. After the glue has cured mark the cockpit opening using the template provided on the plan. Trim with a sharp knife and sand the edge with fine sandpaper.


Using the 1/4"x1"x15" balsa plank cut appropriate pieces for the cowl filler blocks and glue them in place on the front of the firewall and on top of the fuselage sides. Cut two small pieces of 1/2" triangular stock and glue them in the corners. After the glue has cured carve and sand the parts to shape.



Referring to the section on plate two of the plans that shows the cabane plate assembly, glue the three cabane plates (P-6, P-7, and P-8) together with slow CA or epoxy. When the glue is cured run a 13/64" drill through both holes to make sure they line up and have no glue in the holes.


Slide the two cabane struts into the slots in each end of the assembly, center the cabanes in the assembly and glue two 8-32 blind nuts in the correct side of the assembly.


Center a 4" piece of 2" glass tape on the cabane plate, wrap the finished edges around the plate and glue in place. After the glue cures sand the assembly smooth and flat.



Centered over the holes in the fuselage side cut four 1/2"x1/2" clearance holes in the balsa sides of the front deck for the aluminum cabane mounts.



Making sure the slots in the cabane mounting blocks are clear of any debris, slide the cabane mount assembly in place in the four slots in the fuselage. Check the alignment of the holes in the aluminum cabane struts with the holes in the fuselage. All holes MUST line up to get the correct incidence when you assemble the Hog Bipe. Correct any problems of alignment now.



Locate the two pushrod outer sheaths (black) and thread them through the holes in the formers and the fuselage sides. The sheath should extend through the side of the fuselage at the rear far enough to be sanded off flush with the side. Note that one pushrod should exit the side in the top slot and one pushrod should exit the side in the lower slot. Glue the sheath securely at the rear fuselage side and at former F-7. The front of each sheath will be located after the servos are installed.


Fill in any dings, dents or gaps with glue and/or filler. With a long sanding block sand the entire fuselage to remove any bumps and sharp edges. Try to achieve a smooth even surface all over the fuselage.