FAZER RC68 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION |
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A NOTE BEFORE BEGINNING:
The Fazer can be flown with either a 2 or 4-stroke engine. Whichever you choose, it is strictly a matter of personal preference. However, the 4-stroke engine is generally heavier than the 2-stroke engine. If
the 4-stroke engine is selected, the engine mounts, plywood doublers, and the balsa fuselage must be shortened by 1 1/2". Moving the 4-stroke engine closer to the leading edge helps eliminate a lot of
tail weight that would be required to properly balance the model. Patterns for shortening the plywood doublers have been provided later in these instructions. |
76. |
The spacing of the maple engine mounts must be adjusted to fit your particular engine. Measure the distance between the engine mounting lugs of your
engine to determine the correct spacing of the maple mounts. Install the maple mounts into the balsa fuselage and adjust the mount spacing by varying the thickness of the scrap balsa spacer under the
bottom mount as shown in the photo. |
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77. |
Because the fuselage is routed to shape (not band sawed) the engine mount slots have a slight radius to them at the rear. Slightly round the ends of the maple engine
mounts for a flush fit. Glue the maple engine mounts in place along with the proper balsa spacer with thin CA glue. |
78. |
Glue the 1/2"x4" balsa fuselage fill-in to the front of the fuselage and maple engine mounts as pictured in the photo. |
79. |
Taper the ends of the left and right fuselage doublers with a razor plane or sanding block. Make sure you taper the outside ends of the doublers.
Not the insides |
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80. |
- Glue the 1/8" plywood doublers to the balsa fuselage using a liberal amount of Sig Kwik Set Epoxy (5 minute) applied to the insides of the doublers.
- Hold the plywood doubler in place until the epoxy glue has cured, with either metal weights or a stack of old books.
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81. |
Use a small block plane to roughly round the edges of the plywood doublers and the balsa fuselage. Finish shaping the fuselage and doublers with sanding block
equipped with 80 grit sandpaper. |
82. |
Wrap a piece of 80 grit sandpaper around a piece of 3/4" dowel and sand a half round shape in the 1/2" sq. balsa fuselage fill-in (between the maple engine mounts) to
provide enough clearance for the front of your engine. |
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83. |
The injection molded engine mount was designed to accommodate the smaller engines (.25 to .28 size). Depending upon which size engine you use, it may be
necessary to trim the insides of the mount to fit your particular engine. Scribe lines have been provided on the face of the mount. Carefully measure your engine (refer to step No.76) and trim each side of
the mount along one of these scribe lines. |
| 84. |
Place the engine and the injection molded engine mount in a vise and mark the mounting hole locations with a center punch or a sharpened piece of music wire. Drill
four holes through the molded mount at these locations with a 1/8" dia. drill bit. |
85. |
Install the proper size propeller and spinner on the engine and place it and the moulded mount on the fuselage as shown in the photo. Make sure you have a 1/8" gap
between the spinner and the front of the fuselage. Again, mark the mounting hole locations with a center punch or a sharpened piece of music wire. |
BUILDERS TIP:
Apply thin CA glue to the inside of the previously drilled holes to strengthen the wood around each hole. Allow the glue to cure, then redrill the holes with the 1/8"
drill bit. | |
86. |
Drill out the four engine mounting bolt holes and the three landing gear bolt holes with a 1/8" drill bit. |
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87. |
Drill the back side of each of the four engine mounting holes 3/16" deep with a 5/32" drill bit for blind nut clearance.
NOTE: The 4-40 blind nuts will be permanently installed after the fuselage has been covered. |
88. |
Slide the fuselage onto the wing until the fuselage is in the center of the wing. Verify this by carefully measuring from the wing tips to the sides of the fuselage with a
tape measure or a long ruler.
DO NOT GLUE AT THIS TIME. |
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| Viewed from the top, check the alignment of the wing and fuselage by measuring from the trailing edge of each wing tip back to the end of the fuselage. Each of
these measurements should be equal.
Also check the alignment of the wing and fuselage from the front. The fuselage must be perpendicular to the center line of the wing. |
89. |
When satisfied with the alignment of the wing and fuselage, glue in place with thin CA glue. If necessary, fill any gaps between the fuselage and wing joint with Sig
Kwik Set epoxy (5 minute). |
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90. |
Reinforce the wing and fuselage joint with glass tape and epoxy. A strip of glass tape 1"x12" has been provided, cut the glass tape into four equal pieces that are 3"
long. Lightly spray the back of the pieces of glass tape with 3M 77 spray contact cement. Place the pieces of glass tape on the wing and fuselage joint overlapping them at the leading edge. Coat the
glass tape with Sig Epoxy (slow drying) using an epoxy brush. Use only enough epoxy to fill (wet-out) the glass cloth. Remove any excess epoxy with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol before the epoxy
sets up. |
COVERING YOUR FAZER |
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A Note To The Modeler |
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The color scheme of the Fazer is not only attractive, it is a functionall scheme as well. The roll rate of the Fazer is quite (very) fast and the flyer can easily become disorientated.
If you choose not to use the color scheme that is shown on the kit box label, make sure the color scheme on the top and bottom of the model is different. This greatly helps the flyer maintain the proper
orientation of the model during Maneuvers. |
| Selecting A Covering |
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All of the FAZER prototypes were covered with Sig Supercoat Iron-on plastic covering. Supercoat covering is ideal for sport models because it's light weight and easy to apply.
The color scheme that is pictured on the label is quite easy to duplicate and only requires three rolls of Sig Supercoat covering. The colors that are needed are two rolls of Waco Red and
one roll of Dark Blue. You will also need one roll of Sig Supertrim White. The three large decal sheets that are provided have the remaining markings needed to complete the color scheme.
NOTE: If you choose another brand of covering material, be sure to read the manufacturers directions that come with the material. Follow their instructions when applying the material as different brand
coverings have slightly different handling characteristics and application temperatures. However, the basic techniques for applying iron-on plastic coverings of any brand are pretty much the same. We
also recommend that you use a temperature guage to set the temperature of your iron to the setting the covering manufacturer recommends (200 degrees F for Sig Supercoat Covering). |
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Surface Preparation |
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A good covering job starts with good surface preparation. Remember, regardless of what kind of covering you choose, it won't hide poor workmanship.
Fill any small dents or surface gaps with a lightweight filler or spackling paste. Sand the entire model including the ailerons and tail surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper, then again with 360 or 400 grit
sandpaper. |
BUILDERS TIP:
Before starting the actual applications of covering material, use a vaccum cleaner with a soft brush attachment and vaccum the entire model and work bench.
This helps eliminate the dust particles that get under the covering. | |
91. |
The structure that is to be covered must be clean, dry and dust free. Wipe the entire model with a tack rag cloth dampened with alcohol to remove all excess balsa
dust. |
92. |
Cut four 12" strips of covering (Waco Red) that are 3/8" wide and fold in half along it's length. Iron one of these strips of covering to each of the four sides of the wing and
fuselage joints. Attach the strip of covering to the side of the fuselage first with a hot sealing iron. For easiest application work from the trailing edge of the wing forward, stretching and sealing the strip to
the fuselage. Keep the crease in the strip centered in the joint. By stretching the side of the strip that attaches to the fuselage, the other side of the strip will lay flat on the wing. Now seal the remainder
of the strip of covering material to the balsa wing sheeting. |
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BUILDERS TIP:
Before applying any plastic film cover over itself it is a good idea to wipe the overlapped area with alcohol or thinner. This will remove any dirt or skin oil that would interfere with the film
bond. | |
93. |
Cut or trace out a pattern of the fuselage profile from the plan. Use this pattern to cut-out a piece of covering (Waco Red) for each side of the fuselage (right and left).
Allow approximately 1" of excess covering material around the outside edges of the fuselage and cut the wing opening approximately 1/16" oversize. Place the covering material on the fuselage side
and smooth out as many wrinkles as possible. Iron the covering in place as shown in the picture overlapping the covering around all the outside edges of the fuselage. Repeat this step for the other side
of the fuselage and overlap the seams of the covering material by at least 3/8". |
94. |
Cover the bottom of the wing panels with Dark Blue from the front of the wing spar to the back of the trailing edge as pictured. Cover the front of the wing panels with
Waco Red. Make sure you overlap the Dark Blue with Waco Red covering at least 3/8". |
95. |
Cover the top of both wing panels and the ends of the wing tips with Waco Red covering. Again make sure that you overlap the seams of the covering at the leading and
trailing edges. |
96. |
Cover the bottom sides of the stabilizer, elevators, ailerons, and servo hatches with Dark Blue covering. |
| 97. |
Cover the top sides of the stabilizer, elevators, ailerons, and both sides of the rudder with Waco Red covering. |
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Installing Easy Hinges |
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Sig's famous EASY HINGES have been included in your kit to hinge all the control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is
actually a three-part laminate, a tough plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material on each side. They are specially designed to be installed with thin C/A glue. The hinges have been
chemically treated to slow down the set time of the glue to allow it to soak all the way to the ends of the hinge and into the wood surrounding it, for a super strong bond. Once the glue has dried, the
hinge cannot be pulled from the structure without tearing wood out with it! We recommend that all surfaces be completely covered before installing the EASY HINGES. |
98. |
Use a #11 X-Acto blade (or similar) to cut slots in the stabilizer trailing edge and elevator leading edge to accept the EASY HINGES.
Make the slots approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinges. Refer to the full-size plan for the exact hinge locations. |
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99. |
After all of the slots have been cut, insert EASY HINGES halfway into the stabilizer slots. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES YET! Next,
carefully slide the elevator onto the hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the elevators onto the hinges at an angle, one at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all the hinges at once. Don't be
concerned if the hinges aren't perfectly straight or centered in the slots - they don't have a center line. |
100. |
To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevator to the maximum amount needed. For best control response, the gap should be as
small as possible but big enough to allow full movement of the control surface. |
101. |
Place three or four drops of thin C/A directly onto the hinges in the gap. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the
hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all the EASY HINGES. Then turn the stabilizer over and repeat the gluing process on the other side of each hinge. |
102. |
After the glue has cured (3 to 5 minutes) the joint should be flexed to full deflection in each direction a couple of dozen times to reduce the
stiffness. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinges, as they are almost indestructible. |
103. |
The ailerons and the rudder are hinged exactly like the stabilizer and elevators. |
FINAL ASSEMBLY |
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104. |
Place the stabilizer in the slot at the rear of the fuselage. Refer to the top view alignment drawing and carefully align the stabilizer with the wing. When satisfied with the alignment, draw cut lines on the
top and bottom of the stabilizer at the fuselage sides. Cut away the covering on the top and bottom of the stabilizer where it will be glued to the fuselage (there must be wood to wood contact in the glue
joints). Use a sharp modeling knife or a single edge razor blade and don't cut into the balsa wood if possible. |
| 105. |
Glue the stabilizer in place onto the fuselage. Use slow drying epoxy to allow you ample time to carefully re-align the stabilizer with the fuselage and wing. Check and double
check the final alignment of the stabilizer to the wing from the front and top before the glue dries. Step back about 10 feet and view the model from the front, as shown in the front view drawing. Tilt the
stabilizer for proper alignment if necessary. Use a tape measure to make sure the stabilizer tips are at equal distances from the trailing edge of the wing. Use pins to hold the stabilizer in position
until the epoxy glue cures. |
106. |
Set the fin and rudder assembly in it's proper location on the back of the fuselage. Using a sharp modeling knife, trace around the fin lightly, cutting through the
covering on the top of the fuselage. Remove the covering from under the fin so there will be a wood to wood contact between the fin and fuselage. Cut a hinge slot in the rudder and in the rear of the
fuselage for the bottom rudder hinge. Epoxy glue the fin and rudder assembly in place on the fuselage. Also, insert the bottom rudder hinge into the fuselage when gluing the fin and rudder in place. Refer
to the alignment drawing and make sure the fin and rudder are aligned perpendicular to the stabilizer. When satisfied with the alignment, pin in place and allow the glue to dry. Glue the bottom hinge into
the rudder and fuselage with thin CA glue, as was done for all of the other hinges. |
107 |
Round off the corners and smooth up the edges of the aluminum landing gear with a file or grinding wheel. Bolt the 2 1/2" main wheels (not provided) onto the
aluminum landing gear with the 6-32 x 1 1/2" bolts, hex nuts and flat washers that have been provided. After the wheels are in place and the bolts are secure, trim off the excess 6-32 x 1 1/2" bolts flush
with the 6-32 hex nuts. Use a drop of CA glue to keep the nuts from loosening up. |
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108. |
Install the aluminum landing gear onto the fuselage using the three 4-40 x 1 1/2" bolts and locking hex nuts. As in the previous step, cut off the excess 4-40 bolt flush
with the nut. |
109. |
Install a 3/4" tailwheel onto the tailwheel wire with a 1/16" wheel collar or by soldering it in place with small flat washers. |
TRIM AND DECALS |
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110. |
Refer to the plans, and cut out or trace a pattern of the white trim. Unroll and tape the White Supertrim to a flat surface. By slightly angling the pattern on the Supertrim
there is enough material to cut out a left and right white trim pattern from one roll. Remove the paper backing from the trim and place on the wing. |
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| BUILDERS TIP: Find an empty window cleaner bottle and sprayer. Fill the bottle with water, add 4 or 5 drops of dishwashing detergent and shake up. Spray this
solution onto the back of the decal (or trim) and onto the surface on which they will be placed. This procedure will allow you to position the decal in it's proper location without sticking to the
covering. When satisfied with the location, squeegee out the water from under the decal with an epoxy spreader or a balsa paddle and allow to dry for at least 12 hours. |
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| 111. |
Cut out the decals using a modeling knife equipped with a sharp (new) No.11 X-Acto blade and a straight edge. Leave about 1/32" to 1/16" of clear mylar around the
outside edges of the decal. Using the above procedure (Builders Tip), place the decals onto the model. Refer to the plan and the decal layout drawing to properly locate and position each of the
decals.
NOTE: The star decals for the stabilizer and rudder are properly spaced on the decal sheet to match the locations on the plan. Cut out the stars from the sheet and use the sheet as a template to
properly space these decals on the stabilizer and rudder. |
INSTALLING THE ENGINE AND TANK |
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112. |
In preparation for mounting the engine, install the four 4-40 blind nuts in the previously drilled holes. Lightly tap the blind nuts in place with s small hammer and glue in
place with thin CA glue. Paint the blind nuts to match the color of the fuselage. |
113. |
Securely mount the engine and molded mount onto the fuselage using the four 4-40 x 1 1/4" socket-head bolts that have been provided. |
114. |
The fuel tank shown in the photo is a Sullivan 4oz slant tank. You will notice the overflow vent/pressure vent is located in the upper left hand corner of
the tank. This is to allow the fuel tank to be completely filled when the model is sitting on it's wheels. The pick up tube (clunk) must extend to the rear of the fuel tank and swing freely to all corners inside
the fuel tank.
Place the fuel tank on the fuselage and mark the locations of the 4-40 J-Bolts. Keep them close to the sides of the tank. Drill a 1/16" hole in each of these four locations and thread the J-Bolts in place.
Place a piece of foam rubber under the fuel tank and temporarily rubber band in place with two No.64 rubber bands. |
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NOTE: The 1/8" o.d. nylon pushrod tubing is held in place by the rubber bands that secure the fuel tank. |
RADIO INSTALLATION |
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The servo out put arms that are supplied with the servos (or radio system) are equipped with four arms. Trim off two of the short arms and one of the long arms as shown in the
following photos. |
115. |
A 12"x.065 dia. throttle pushrod cable has been provided. Solder a 2-56 solder link to one end of the cable. Tin the end of the cable before you attempt to solder the
2-56 solder link to the cable. |
116. |
Reinstall the 1/8" o.d. dia. nylon throttle pushrod tube in place and glue it to the plywood joiner with CA glue. Do not glue the nylon tubing to the leading edge sheeting
until after the the fuel tank has been installed.
NOTE: 1/8" o.d. nylon pushrod tubing must be trimmed off at the rear of the engine. Save this piece of tubing for the pushrod guides. |
117. |
Slide the throttle cable pushrod into the nylon pushrod tubing. Next, temporarily install the throttle servo in place and connect the throttle cable to the out put arm with
the 2-56 solder link.
NOTE: The servo out put arm as pictured in the photo is in the low throttle position for the HP Goldcup .40 engine. On other makes of engines, this may be the high throttle position. |
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118. |
Make sure that the servo out put arm and the engine throttle lever are both in the high throttle position. Connect the throttle cable to the engine with the provided
Sig E-Z connector and trim off any excess throttle cable. |
119. |
Remove the throttle cable from the model and stiffen the cable by soldering the last three inches of the cable as shown in the photo. Use plenty of heat and flux so the
solder sweats into the cable. Carefully wipe off any excess solder on the cable while it is still hot. When cool, lightly sand the cable so it slides smoothly in the 1/8" o.d. nylon tubing. |
120. |
Permanently install the throttle servo at this time with the provided 1/2" servo tape. This servo tape is uper sticky, so make sure that you have the servo lined up
properly before pressing the servo in place onto the 1/4" balsa servo mount. |
| 121. |
Mount the two small nylon control horns onto the ailerons and the two medium control horns onto the elevator and rudder. Mount the "left handed" control horn on the right
side of the rudder in the location shown in the photo. This minimizes the bend in the elevator pushrod. Drill the mounting holes with a 5/32" drill bit and a pin vise. Mount each nylon control horn with two
No. 2 x 1/2" sheet metal screws that are provided. Do not crush the balsa control surfaces by over lightening the sheet metal screws. |
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122. |
Reinstall the aileron servos with out put arms into the wing. |
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123. |
Make the aileron pushrod by threading one of the nylon RC links half way onto the end of a 2-56 threaded rod. Next, attach a 2-56 solder link to the servo out put arm
and connect the nylon RC link to the aileron control horn. Using a pair of side cutters, cut off the excess threaded rod, leaving enough wire to allow a solid solder joint in the solder link. Remove the
solder link and threaded rod and solder the link to the end of the threaded rod. Repeat this to make the other aileron pushrod. |
124. |
Reinstall the elevator and rudder servos and temporarily install the servo hatch covers and the servo out put arms. |
125. |
Two 1/16" dia. x 24" music wire pushrods have been provided for the elevator and rudder. Make the elevator pushrod by soldering one of the 2-56 threaded brass
couplers (provided) to one end of the music wire pushrod. Thread a nylon RC link half way onto the threaded brass coupler. As in the previous step, attach a 2-56 solder link to the servo out put arm and
connect the RC link to the nylon elevator control horn. (Slip a piece of 1/8" o.d. x1/2" nylon tubing over the 1/16" music wire pushrod. This nylon tubing will be part of the pushrod guide in the next step.)
Using a pair of side cutters, cut off the excess music wire leaving enough wire to allow a solid solder joint in the solder link. Remove the solder link and the pushrod from the model and solder the link to
the end of the 1/16" dia. music wire pushrod. |
126. |
Attach the pushrod to the elevator control horn and to the servo out put arm. Securely screw the servo out put arm in place and make sure the out put arm and the
solder link clear the hatch cover. |
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127. |
Repeat steps No.125 and No.126 to make the rudder pushrod. |
128. |
Because of the many different sizes of servos that are available, the location of the pushrod guides may vary slightly on the side of the fuselage. Place one of the landing
gear clips onto the nylon tube (that was previously installed on the pushrod) and hold the pushrod and the landing gear clip to the side of the fuselage 6 1/4" from the trailing edge of the wing. Viewing the
pushrod from the side, move the landing gear clip up or down to align the pushrod. The pushrod must be straight from the out put arm to the nylon control horn. Mark the location and drill two holes
through the side of the fuselage with a 1/16" drill bit. |
129. |
Make two spacers from scrap Lite-Ply and paint or cover them to match the fuselage. Use the nylon landing gear clip as a guide and drill two 1/16" holes in the Lite-Ply
spacers. Assemble the pushrod guides by clamping the 1/8" o.d. nylon tubes in place with the nylon landing gear clips and by inserting the two 2-56 x 1" bolts through the fuselage, Lite-Ply spacers, and
landing gear clips. Tighten the hex nuts with a pair of long nose pliers and place a drop of thin CA glue on each of the hex nuts to securely lock them in place. |
| 130. |
Install the radio receiver and the battery pack in the left wing hatch. Wrap the receiver and the battery pack in a layer of foam rubber.
NOTE: To help balance the model, the battery pack can be positioned in the front or the rear of the servo hatch compartment. Remove all the kinks and bends out of your antenna and run it out through
the nylon tube in the left wing. |
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RADIO SET UP |
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The transmitter and the receiver batteries must be fully charged before you can properly set the control surfaces to neutral and adjust the control throws. |
131. |
Cut out and glue to a stiff piece of cardboard the aileron positioning guide. Use this guide to check the neutral position of each aileron. Place the guide on the bottom of the
wing at the W-3 wing rib. Adjust each of the ailerons to it's neutral position by screwing the nylon RC link in or out until the aileron sits flush on the guide. |
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132. |
The elevator and rudder must also be in the neutral position. Again, screw the nylon RC links in and out to adjust these control surfaces. |
133. |
Place the model on a flat surface and measure the amount of elevator travel with a ruler as pictured in the photo. Adjust the elevator travel to the dimensions that are
listed in the chart. |
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134. |
Again, check and adjust the aileron travel as per the dimensions in the control travel chart. |
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Because there are so many manufacturers of radio equipment, it would be almost impossible to tell the modeler how to set up each type of radio for their Fazer.
Listed below is a chart that gives the modeler the suggested control travel for each of the control surfaces of the Fazer. The second chart deals with the radios that have mixing capabilities. Listed are the
types of mixing that is desirable and the effects they have on the flight performance of the Fazer. |
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| NOTE: The control throws listed are a good starting place. When the modeler feels more confident with the Fazer, the control throws can be increased ( a little
at a time) to a maximum of 45 degrees for the elevators and ailerons |
| Control Travel Chart |
| Item | Low Rate Travel | Hight Rate Travel |
| ELEVATOR | 3/4" up 3/4" down | 1 1/2" up 1 1/2" down |
| AILERONS | 1" up 1" down | 2" up 2" down |
| RUDDER | 1 1/4" left 1 1/4" right | 1 7/8" left 1 7/8" right |
| THROTTLE | Full range of throttle lever on carb. | |
| Control Mixing Chart |
| Mixing | Control Surfaces | Effect |
| FLAPERON | Elevators and Ailerons |
Flaperon mixing is a desired feature because it allows the ailerons to continue to work while the flaps are deployed (or mixed).
EXAMPLE: When the flaps are in the down position and you make a right turn, the right aileron raises up allowing the model to turn in that direction. |
| ELEVEVATOR FLAP | Elevators and Flaps |
Elevator to Flap mixing is also a desired feature. It allows the flaps and elevators to work together but in the opposite directions of each other. (When
mixed together, the flaps travel downward and elevators travel upward and vise versa). This gives the Fazer the ability to make super sharp turns and loops. |
| 3-POSITION SWITCH | Flaps and Elevators |
Depending on your brand and type of radio, the three position switch located on the transmitter may be used to set the flaps in three different
positions.
Switch setting #1: Kick the flaps up to approximately 10 degrees. The flaps now act like the spoilers of a sailplane killing part of the lift of the wing. This allows the
Fazer to make a faster descent for those quick take-offs and landings that fun fly models are known for.
Switch setting #2: With the switch in this position, the flaps are held in the neutral position with the exception of the elevator to flap mixing for normal flying.
Switch setting #3: Lower the flaps to about 30 degrees. This allows the Fazer to make very slow landings or to fly forward at a speed that is almost a
hover. | | |
BALANCE YOUR FAZER |
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IMPORTANT: For optimum flight performance, balance your Fazer precisely where indicated on the full-size plan. We do, however, recommend that your Fazer be slightly
nose heavy for the first few flights. When you become more familiar with the flight characteristics of the model, then move the balance point to the optimum location. |
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Make a balancer from a block of wood and two pencils that are tipped with erasers. Drill two holes in the block of wood about 3" apart and install the pencils with the erasers at the top.
Mark the balance point on the bottom of the wing by placing a piece of tape on each side of the fuselage 7" from the trailing edge of the wing. Place the model in the balancer with the ends of the
erasers on these pieces of tape. If necessary, shift the battery pack or add weight to properly balance the model. Trying to fly with the balance point too far forward or too far aft is much more
dangerous than the slight increase in the wing loading caused by adding nose or tail weight.
Always balance the model with an empty fuel tank so that it sits level on the stand. |
| In addition to the fore and aft balance, it's more important that you balance the Fazer spanwise. A heavy wing on one side can result in poor loop tracking.
To check this, hold the model upside down by the front of the spinner and the tailwheel. The heavy wing should fall towards the floor. Add small amounts of weight to the opposite wing until the model is
balanced. |
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT |
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Make sure your servos are securely mounted and that the servo arms have their retaining screws in place. It is also a good idea to re-check all the pushrod connectors, fuel
tank mounting, fuel lines, wheels, engine mounting bolts and tighten the prop and spinner. Range check the radio as per the manufacturer's instructions and make sure it is fully charged. If there are
any problems, send the radio in for repair. |
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Double Check Everything You Can Think Of! A model and radio that are not prepared and working properly on the ground before take-off will not improve in the air
- IT WILL GET WORSE! - There is no point in attempting to fly until everything is 100% correct. |
FLYING |
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The Fazer was designed for R/C pilots who can keep up with highly aerobatic models. Lower time pilots are encouraged to seek out the help of a more experienced pilot
during the first few test flights.
Keep the control throws on the low rate settings and stay at least three mistakes high. Once you get the feel for the model try a few simple maneuvers like rolls, loops,
stall turns and knife edge flight. Then as the "SIG Factory Flyers" call it, "take the skirt off" and turn on the high rates - be ready for some really wild maneuvers that are so quick you won't believe it.
Caution, until you are familiar with the response time and the shape of the Fazer leave yourself plenty of room for recovery. Recovery is never much of a problem, it can be done as fast as you get into
trouble but you do need to leave room and time until you've got it together. One other warning, it is very easy to get in the habit of flying very close in- the deception of "slow speed" and fast response
time combined with a minor mistake during recovery can get the Fazer behind you faster than you can read this sentence. You can endanger yourself, other flyers and any spectators very easily.
Get a little practice and you won't believe how much fun you'll have while still flying safely. |
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Warning - Danger - Important! Read These Warnings:
- A model airplane motor gets very hot and can cause serious burns. Do not touch the motor during or after operation.
- Keep clear of the propeller, it can cut off a finger or put out an eye. Make sure the propeller is securely fastened in place and is not cracked.
- Model engine fuel is flamable and poisonous. Take the same precautions while transporting and using it that you would with a can of gasoline or a bottle of poison.
- Remember that it is possible to lose control of a model airplane. Do not fly in locations where the model may hit people or damage property if loss of control occurs. Check your model equipment
regularly to insure it is in safe operating condition.
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| 4-STROKE CONVERSION |
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Because the 4-stroke engines almost always weigh more than 2-stroke it is necessary to shorten the nose of the Fazer by 1 1/2". Also, some of the large frame .40
2-strokes weigh as much. Choose your engine carefully to keep the overall weight down. |
135. |
Remove the patterns from these instructions and place them on the 1/8" plywood fuselage doublers. Use a soft lead pencil and trace around the outside of
each of the patterns. Cut out the fuselage doublers with a jigsaw. |
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136. |
Place the left fuselage pattern (the one without the engine cut out) onto the balsa fuselage. Again trace around the pattern and cut out the fuselage with a jigsaw.
After the fuselage is cut down to the size of the left doubler, remove an additional 1/2" from the front of the fuselage for the 1/2" sq. balsa fill-in. |
| 137. |
Trim 1 1/2" off each of the 3/8"x1/2"x5 3/4" maple engine mounts and glue the maple mounts and balsa spacer into the balsa fuselage (refer to step No.76
of the fuselage construction). Also glue the 1/2" sq. balsa fill-in to the front of the fuselage as shown in the photo. |
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| CONTROL LINE CONVERSION |
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Sig Mfg. receives many requests from modelers for instructions and drawings to help them convert R/C models into control-line models. Because the heritage of the
Fazer is partly based on control-line type models, it is quite easy to modify the Fazer for control-line. Follow these instructions to covert your Fazer into an exciting stunt model. |
140. |
The wing is built basically the same as the R/C version as described in steps No.1 through No.56 of these instructions. Cut out the clearance holes in the wing ribs W-2
and W-4 for the lead out wires to pass through. Use tha balsa lightening hole that was die-cut from the W-3 wing rib as a guide to cut-out the clearance hole in each of the ribs.
NOTE: Eliminate the W-4 wing ribs, the SR-2 sub ribs and the Lite-Ply servo mounts as they are not needed for the control-line version. |
141. |
Attach the leadout cable to the bellcrank by bending over the cable at least 2" from the end. Be careful not to kink the cable wire. Pass the leadout
cable through the outside hole in the bellcrank and wrap it tightly and neatly with the copper wire for at least 1/2". Fold the remaining cable back towards the bellcrank and continue wrapping the copper
wire over the cable in the opposite direction. Cut off any excess copper wire and cable. Smear a thin coat of epoxy over the binding to keep it from unwinding. Repeat this step for the other leadout
cable. |
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142. |
Make a bellcrank mount from 1/8" birch plywood that measures 2 1/2"x3 5/8". Epoxy glue the mount in place making sure that the plywood mount is resting on top of
the bottom balsa spar and against the plywood wing joiner. Reinforce the bellcrank mount with a piece of 1/4"x3/8" balsa glued between the W-2 wing rib and the SR-1 sub rib. Make a bellcrank spacer
from 1/8" plywood and mount the bellcrank and leadout cables as shown in the photo. |
143. |
Using the dimensions that are in the photo, install two 1/8" o.d. eyelets in the outside of the wing tip (WT). Pass the leadout wires through the brass eyelets and tie the
ends of the leadout cables as descibed in step No.141. |
144. |
Make a bellcrank pushrod from 3/32" dia. music wire (This pushrod extends from the bellcrank to the top hole of the nylon flap horn). Install the pushrod into the inside
hole of the bellcrank arm and solder it in place using two #3 flat washers. |
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145. |
Sheet the center section of the wing as described in steps No.26 and No.37. Cut an exit hole in the sheeting for the 1/32" pushrod to pass through. |
146. |
Epoxy glue 1 1/2 oz. of lead weight in the outboard wing tip. |
147. |
The flaps are built in the same manner as shown on the plan. Add an additional 3/16"x1/4" balsa cross bracing in each rib bay of the flap. When both flaps are
completed, make a flap joiner wire from 3/32" music wire (copy the elevator joiner wire). Refer to step No.75 and join the two flaps together. Build the fuselage, stabilizer and elevators as shown in the
instructions and on the plan. |
148. |
Build the fin and rudder as shown on the plan and in the instructions, but do not hinge the two together. Permanently glue the fin to the rudder with the rudder offset
to the outside of the circle 3/16".
NOTE: The model must be covered and the final assembly completed before hooking up the controls. |
149. |
Mount a medium nylon control horn on the inboard flap. Make sure that the holes in the nylon control horn are centered in the middle of the hinge gap. Mount a medium
nylon control horn on the bottom of the left elevator. Again make sure that the holes in the horn are centered in the hinge gap and then hook up the controls as shown in the drawing below. The controls
must be smooth and free of any binding. If not, find out why and correct the problem before proceeding any further. |
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150. |
Our prototype control-line Fazer has flown with a OS .40 FP Stunt engine and a 11"x 4 APC Prop. This combination worked extremely well with more than
enough power to fly the model through the entire AMA stunt pattern, even in windy conditions. The low pitched prop allows the engine to run at a higher R.P.M. keeping the engine in it's peak horse
power range. Mount a 4 to 4 1/2 oz. metal fuel tank to the fuselage with J-bolts and two No.64 rubber bands. Make sure that the centerline of the fuel tank is lined up in the center of the engine venturi
as shown in the photo. |
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151. |
Balance the model in the location that is shown on the plan. |
152. |
Fly the Fazer on .015 dia. x 65' lines measured from the center of the model to the handle. Use a good control-line handle that has adjustable line spacing and start out
with the spacing set at 3 1/2" between the lines. If the controls of the model feel too sensitive, reduce the line spacing of the control handle. If too sluggish, increase the line spacing.
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| © Copyright SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. |
SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520 |
LIMIT OF LIABILITY:
In use of our products, Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her
intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith. |
