KADET LT-40 RC67 COVERING

146.

In this step you need to cover all the parts of your model with the covering material of your choice, before proceeding on to Final Assembly of the model.

General Notes

There are many different covering materials available for finishing model airplanes. They range from raw coverings that must be bonded to the structure with adhesive and then painted; to iron-on plastic materials that have the color and finish built right in. The choice of which type of covering material to use on your KADET LT-40 is a matter of personal choice. However, if this is your first model airplane, we recommend that you chose one of the popular pre-finished iron-on plastic film coverings. This type of covering material provides a high gloss, durable finish that is easy to apply and repair. It goes on relatively quick and is not near as messy or smelly as using a covering material that must be painted. All of the KADET LT-40 prototypes built here at the SIG factory were finished with SIG SUPERCOAT IRON-ON PLASTIC COVERING.

Since all iron-on plastic covering materials come with detailed step-by-step instructions on how they should be applied, we will not go into a repetitive step-by-step sequence here. We will instead outline some ideas that are specific to the KADET LT-40. Be sure to read all the instructions that come with your covering material and follow them carefully.

NOTE: There are also complete books and video tapes available on applying iron-on covering materials. These sources can be very helpful, providing a lot more tips than we can cover in this instruction book. Often times, the video tapes can be rented or borrowed from your local hobby shop or model airplane club.

Choice of Color Scheme

One of modelingís pleasures is the chance to decorate your model to suit your own taste. There are a huge variety of after-market items available in the hobby shops to dress up your airplane. Striping tapes and trim sheets in every color of the rainbow, stick-on decals and markings, are all available and easy to apply. You can go for a military look, a Cessna-like civil aviation look, or something totally wild in vivid neon colors. Your imagination is the only limit!

If this is your first model, our advice is to keep the color scheme simple and visible. The most economical way to go is to choose one primary color for the entire model (see "COVERING CUTTING DIAGRAM"). Choose a light color! Covering the entire model in black, dark blue, gray, etc., is not a good choice. In the air a dark colored model will quickly turn into a black silhouette, and it will be difficult to distinguish which way the airplane is going. A light color is more visible at greater distances! White, yellow, orange, cream, and neon colors are excellent choices for a trainer model.

Kit Color Scheme

The KADET LT-40 kit includes two sheets of stick-on decals to duplicate all the markings on the fuselage and fin of the model shown on the kit box label. Whether or not you use these decals is your choice. We think they give the KADET LT-40 a "civil aviation" look, and thatís what we wanted. You may want something totally different!

No decals are included in the kit for the wing. On our kit box model, we covered the back part of the wing with white covering material, and then covered the front part of the wing with black covering. The black covering overlaps (3/8") onto the white covering on top of the main spar. Red striping tape was used for an accent stripe. If you want to make your KADET LT-40 wing look the same as ours, it will cost you one more roll of covering material (black) and take more time than if you make the wing all one color. The choice is yours! The wing covering instructions further on will assume that you are covering your wing the most economical way - in all one color.

Surface Preparation

A good covering job starts with good surface preparation! Regardless of what type of covering material you use, it wonít hide poor workmanship. Finish sand the entire model with 220 grit sandpaper. Fill any holes, gaps, nicks, or dents on the surface of your model with a light-weight filler. After the filler dries, sand off any excess flush with the surface. Regular household "wall repair" or "spackling" compound (3M, Red Devil, DAP, etc.) works well for this, or you may find a suitable "model filler" available in your hobby shop. Just make sure that whatever filler you use is light weight and sands easily.

.

Fuel Proofing

Since itís very difficult to apply iron-on covering material inside the engine compartment, this area should be made fuel proof by painting it with a fuel-proof hobby paint, before the covering material is applied. We prefer to use SIG SUPERCOAT BUTYRATE DOPE. Itís an excellent fuel proofer, and it also acts as a glue to improve the adhesion of the edges of the covering material that overlaps it. Choose a color paint that closely matches the color of the covering you will be using. Use a small (1/2" wide) brush to apply 2-3 coats of paint to the engine compartment, letting it dry between coats.

Paint the entire front surface of firewall F1, plus the inside of the engine compartment "cheeks". Run the paint around the edges onto the outside of the fuselage sides, far enough that the iron-on covering material will overlap the painted areas at least 1/8" when it is applied. Also paint the edges of the hatch area and partway inside the tank compartment with fuel proof paint.

Paint the area of the fuselage where the wing will sit with fuel proof paint.
Paint the bottom of the grooved landing gear block with fuel proof paint.




Covering Cutting Diagram

The diagrams below suggest how to cut 3 standard size rolls (26" x 6 ft.) of iron-on covering material for the KADET LT-40.

We recommend that you take the time to layout each roll on a large, clean surface and cut it to the sizes shown in the diagram. Use a pen to label each piece along one edge. Save the areas marked "scrap" for use in covering the ends of the control surfaces. Once you get started covering, save any large "trimmings" for possible use later.

NOTE: If you decide to cover your KADET LT-40 with more than one base color (for example: wings one color, fuselage another), you will probably need more than 3 rolls of covering material.


.




Cover The Rudder

First cover both ends of the Rudder with small pieces of scrap covering material before covering the sides. Run the end covering "around the corner" about 1/8" onto the sides and front of the Rudder. Trim off excess.
NOTE: Always be careful when trimming excess covering material off of wood parts that you donít "score" or cut into the wood. Scoring a critical structural component of the airplane could seriously weaken its strength and possibly cause an in-flight failure.

Cover the left side of the Rudder with a separate piece of covering material. Run the left side covering completely around the leading and trailing edges, far enough so that there will be at least 1/8" overlap with the right side covering when it is applied. Trim the side covering flush with the top and bottom ends of the Rudder.


.

Cover the right side of the Rudder in the same manner you did the left side, making sure that it overlaps all other pieces of covering material at least 1/8" and that no areas of wood are left exposed.

NOTE: When applying covering to a large solid surface, like the sides of the Rudder, itís best to start ironing in the center and work towards the outer edges, to avoid trapping air bubbles. If you do end up with a bubble of air under the covering material, puncture the bubble with a small pin hole, and then re-iron the loose covering towards the pin hole.

Cover The Fin

Cover the top end of the Fin with a small piece of scrap covering material before covering the sides. Run the top covering around the corners about 1/8" onto the sides, front, and back of the Fin. Then cover the left and right sides of the Fin with separate pieces of covering material, just like you did the Rudder. Overlap the left and right side coverings at least 1/8" along the leading and trailing edges of the Fin. Do not cover the bottom of the Fin, where it will be glued onto the fuselage.

NOTE: When applying covering to an open structure, like this Fin, you should completely adhere the covering to all the outside edges of the structure first. Then go back and shrink the middle of the covering tight.

Cover The Elevator

Covering the Elevator is virtually the same as covering the Rudder. First cover the ends of the Elevator with small pieces of scrap covering material. Then cover the top and bottom of the Elevator with separate pieces of covering material. Iron the top and bottom covering pieces on from the center out to the edges to avoid air bubbles. Overlap all seams at least 1/8".

Cover The Stabilizer

Covering the Stabilizer is virtually the same as covering the Fin. First cover the ends of the Stabilizer with small pieces of scrap covering material. Then cover the top and bottom of the Stabilizer with separate pieces of covering material. Adhere the top and bottom covering pieces around the edges first, then shrink the middle tight. Overlap all seams at least 1/8".

Cover The Ailerons

Covering the Ailerons is virtually the same as covering the Rudder and Elevator. First cover the ends of the Ailerons with scrap, then cover the top and bottom with separate pieces. Overlap all seams at least 1/8". After the Ailerons are covered, use a sharp new blade to trim away the covering material over the slot and hole for the torque rods.

Cover The Fueslage

The fuselage should be covered with five separate pieces of covering material (bottom, top rear, windshield, left side, right side). Start by covering the entire bottom of the fuselage with one piece. Run the sides of the covering up around the corners about 1/8" onto the sides of the fuselage. Trim the front of the covering flush with the front of F1. Trim the rear end of the covering flush with the tail end of FB-R. Cut away the covering over the groove in the Grooved Landing Gear Block.


Next cover the top rear of the fuselage with one piece of material. Run the sides of the covering down over the corners about 1/8" onto the sides of the fuselage. Trim the front and rear ends of the top covering flush with the ends of FT-R. Donít forget to cut open the holes where the rudder pushrod and the Fin leading edge go through FT-R.


Next cover the windshield with a single piece of covering. Run the sides of the covering down over the corners about 1/8" onto the sides of the fuselage. Tuck and iron the front and rear edges of the covering around the ends of the windshield.


.

Finally, cover the sides of the fuselage with separate right and left pieces of covering material. These are the largest pieces of covering material youíve worked with so far. Donít hurry! You canít cover a fuselage side in 10 minutes like you did the smaller parts. Be patient and work slowly! Your patience will be rewarded by a better covering job. Overlap all seams at least 1/8" onto other covering material or onto the pre-painted areas. At the engine compartment, try to work the covering material around the first corner of every edge, and then trim off the excess covering flush with the inside corners. Do the same for the wing saddle area. Do not apply any covering material to the area (F8) where the Stabilizer will be glued on! When youíve finished, cut open the holes in the fuselage sides for the wing dowels.

Cover The Hatch

This little gem will fool you! Because itís so small, youíd think it could be covered pretty fast. However, thatís not the case! There are so many corners and edges, that it takes some time to get all of the Hatch covered. And because the Hatch will be directly exposed to a lot of engine exhaust, it is very important to get it all covered.

Do not leave any exposed wood! Start by applying an oversize piece of covering to the top of the Hatch. Then turn it over and cut out the corners of the excess covering to make it easier to wrap and seal the covering around the edges.

Continue wrapping and sealing the covering around the edges and onto the Hatch bottom.

Make slits in the covering to make it easier to work around the curved end of the Hatch and around the Hatch Tongue. Use patience and do the best you can to get the entire Hatch (top, bottom, and edges) covered. What you canít get covered with iron-on covering, you should paint with fuel-proof paint.




Cover The Wing

Begin by covering the ends of the Center Section Trailing Edge with scrap covering material. Run the covering around onto the top and bottom. Slit the covering to lay down smoothly in front of the plywood Trailing Edge Stiffeners.

Next cover the entire bottom of the Left Wing Panel with one piece of covering material. Like all open structures, you should seal the covering down all along the outside edges of the structure first. (Do not shrink the center of the covering tight at this time - see "CAUTION ON SHRINKING WING COVERING" below) At the root of the wing panel, seal the covering down about 1/4" past the center joint. Cut a hole in the covering to allow the aileron torque rod to stick through. Also, itís not necessary to cover over plywood part ASM (aileron servo mount) - merely cover up to it.

At the front of the wing panel, seal the covering material completely around the Leading Edge and trim it off flush with the top corner of the Leading Edge.




At the back of the wing panel, slit the excess covering at the end of the Center Section Trailing Edge, then run it around the corner and seal it onto the back of the Trailing Edge. Trim off flush with the top rear corner of the Trailing Edge.

.

At the tip end of the wing panel, seal the bottom covering to the last W5 wing rib. Then continue on, working the covering material down smoothly onto the bottom of the wing tip WTP. Wrap and seal the covering completely around the edges of WTP. Trim off flush with the top surface of WTP.

Now cover the bottom of the Right Wing Panel in the same manner you just did the bottom of the Left Wing Panel.

Then cover the top of both wing panels with separate pieces of covering material. Remember to overlap all seams at least 1/4" onto other pieces of covering material.




CAUTION ON SHRINKING WING COVERING
Wait until all four major pieces of wing covering (bottom left, bottom right, top left, top right) have been completely sealed down around their edges before shrinking the middle areas of the covering. When shrinking the middle, do not completely tighten one side of the wing first. Itís best to alternate between the top and bottom wing surface, shrinking each side a little at a time, to avoid uneven shrinking which could cause a warp.


Apply Trim Colors And Decals

You can apply your trim colors and decals now before the model is completely assembled, or you can do it later, whichever you prefer.

Putting large sticky-back decals (like the ones included in this kit) on a model often leaves unsightly air bubbles trapped underneath the decal. Hereís a little trick that eliminates that problem entirely! First cut out the marking you wish to apply with a sharp modeling knife and straight edge. Trim as close to the image as possible. Next spray the surface of the model where the decal will be placed with water mixed with a small amount of dish soap (you can also use "Sig Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner", "Fantastic", "Windex", or "409" type cleaners). Peel the paper backing sheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the sticky side double over and adhere to itself. Place the decal onto the wet surface of the model. The soapy water solution will keep the decal from actually sticking to the model until you have had time to shift it around into exact position. Once you have it in position, use a paddle of scrap sheet balsa wood to squeegee the excess soapy water out from under the decal. Mop up the water with a dry cloth or paper towel. Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the soapy water out from under the decal as possible. Allow to dry overnight! When completely dry, wash off the soap smears with a clean wet rag.

Kit Decals

The following sequence is recommended for applying the window decals supplied in this kit.
  1. Apply the front windshield decal first. This piece is small enough that you can apply it dry, without using any soapy water. Note in the picture that it should go on flush with the bottom of the plywood windshield. Also notice that there is approximately 1/4" overhang on each side of the front decal. Wrap this overhang down onto the sides of the fuselage.
  2. Apply the left side windows in one piece. Do not cut them apart! Applying them as a single piece will allow you to keep them lined up with each other. Use the soapy water method to allow you to slide the side windows into perfect alignment with the windshield. Then squeegee the soapy water from underneath the side windows.
  3. Apply the right side windows in the same manner you did the left side windows.

.

The rest of the decals in the kit should be applied wet, in basically the same manner as the window decals. Both the fin and the fuselage decals can be applied in one piece - do not cut apart the red and black sections. Apply the rear section of the fuselage decal first - then apply the front section, overlapping it about 1/8" onto the rear section.

Warning: Do not try to paint over the kit decals! Butyrate dope, lacquer, enamel, and many other paints will dissolve the decals. If you wish to top coat your decals, be sure to test for compatibility on a scrap decal before applying the paint. Frankly, SIG MFG. CO. does not recommend top coating the decals in this kit. They are already fuel-proof!

FINAL ASSEMBLY

147.

Insert the two 5/16" dia. x5-1/2" Dowels through the holes in the fuselage. The Dowels should protrude 1" from each side of the fuselage. Glue the Dowels in place.



148.

Paint the exposed portion of the Dowels with a couple coats of fuel-proof paint. Let dry.

149.

Re-install the Easy Hinges in the Stabilizer/Elevator and the Fin/Rudder. Return to the instructions on "INSTALLING SIG EASY HINGES", and perform steps 6 through 8 to glue the hinges permanently in place.

150.

The ailerons will be hinged exactly like the tail surfaces, except that the torque rods must be glued in before the Easy Hinges are glued. Start by completely re-assembling the ailerons and Easy Hinges back onto the wing without any glue. Next, working with one aileron at a time, pull the root end of the aileron back away from the wing until the first Easy Hinge is just barely still in its slot and the torque rod is exposed as shown in the photo. Slide a small piece of wax paper between the front of the torque rod and the wing trailing edge. Apply a coat of Slow CA glue in the hole and slot in the aileron leading edge. Quickly slide the aileron back into position against the back of the wing. Remove the wax paper and wipe off any excess glue that oozes out of the slot with a rag. If any glue remains between the front of the torque rod and the wing trailing edge, slide a piece of paper through there to mop up the excess. Let dry!

151.

Return to the instructions on "INSTALLING SIG EASY HINGES", and perform steps 6 through 8 to glue the hinges permanently in place.

152.

Mount the wing on the fuselage with two #67 rubber bands. Using a tape measure, carefully measure from the fuselage sides out to the wing tips (measurement "A") to be sure that the wing is centered on the fuselage. Then measure from the wing tips back to tail end of the fuselage (measurement "B") to make sure the wing is square with the fuselage.



Once the wing is properly located, put some form of line-up marks on both the wing and fuselage so that you can easily re-locate the wing the next time you put it back on the fuselage. You can see in the photo that we've used short pieces of 1/8" wide striping tape on both the wing and the fuselage to mark the center joint and serve as line-up marks.

153.

Put a center mark on the top of the fuselage, right above former F6. Also put a center mark on the front of the Stabilizer. Using no glue, trial fit the Stabilizer onto the fuselage. Line up the center marks at the front and use one T-Pin to secure the front of the stab, as shown. Push the pin completely through the stab and into the fuselage.

154.

Carefully measure from the stab tips to the fuselage front (measurement "C"), to make sure the Stabilizer is square with the fuselage. Pivot the back of the stab until both measurements are exactly the same! Then push another T-Pin through the stab, into the fuselage, to secure it in position.

.

155. Lift the rear of the fuselage up, without jarring the stab loose, enough to enable you to mark the location of both fuselage sides on the bottom of the stab with a pencil.




156.

Remove the Stabilizer from the fuselage and very carefully strip away the covering material on the bottom, between the two lines, where the stab will be glued to the fuselage. CUT THE COVERING LIGHTLY ALONG THE LINES! AVOID CUTTING THE WOOD UNDERNEATH THE COVERING MATERIAL!
HINT: For a better finished appearance, cut about 1/32" inside the lines so that the stab covering will appear to be "tucked" inside the glue joint.




157.

Gluing the Stabilizer to the Fuselage: First apply a coat of Slow CA glue to the area of the fuselage where the Stabilizer will go (the top surface of part F8 and the top edges of the fuse sides). Use enough glue to completely wet the entire surface of the joint. Quickly remount the Stab onto the fuselage, using the edges of the cutaway covering on the bottom to get the Stab back into correct alignment on the fuselage. Press the Stab down firmly into contact with the fuse while you wipe off any excess glue that oozes out of the joint with a rag. Hold tight until the glue dries.

158.

Draw a center-line on top of the stab, running from the center mark above former F6 (step 153) to a point above the center of the rear end of the fuselage.
NOTE: In the photo youíll see that we have temporarily stuck a T-Pin through the hinge gap to give us a visual alignment with the middle of the end of the fuselage. Use a straight edge to draw the line from the mark above F6 to the pin.

159.

Place the Fin/Rudder assembly on the fuselage, sticking the leading edge of the fin through the hole in the top of the fuse. Carefully line up the trailing edge of the fin using the center-line on top of the stab as a guide. Draw along both sides of the fin, marking its location on the top of the fuselage and stab. Take the fin/rudder assembly off the fuse and strip away the covering material inside the lines.



160.

Gluing the Fin to the Fuselage: Apply a coat of Slow CA glue to the area where the Fin will go. Remount the Fin onto the fuselage, line it up as before, and hold it firmly in place until the glue dries. Hold a 90į triangle against the Fin to insure that it dries perpendicular to the Stab.

FINAL ASSEMBLY


161.

Locate the two pre-bent Main Gear Wires and the pre-bent Nose Gear Wire. Inspect the ends of all the wires for burrs. If any are found, use a file or sandpaper to remove them.

.

162. Find the plastic bag containing: six 5/32" Wheel Collars, six Set Screws, and one Hex Wrench. Thread a Set Screw halfway into each Wheel Collar.

163.

Install one 3" dia. Main Wheel and two 5/32" Wheel Collars on the axle of each Main Gear Wire as shown: a Wheel Collar first, then the Wheel, then the other Wheel Collar.
Slide the first Wheel Collar on as far as it will go (up tight against the bend of the wire) and tighten its Set Screw. Slide the outer Wheel Collar up tight against the Wheel, then back it up about the thickness of a piece of paper (to allow the wheel to turn freely), and tighten its Set Screw.


164.


To install the Main Gear Wires in the Grooved Landing Gear Block, you first need to drill two 5/32" dia. holes in the block to accommodate the torsion arms of the wires. Be sure to drill the holes in the exact locations shown - one at the front of the groove and one at the rear, both holes exactly 3/8" in from the fuselage side (in order to hit the middle of the L.G. Anchor Block). Drill completely through the Grooved Landing Gear Block and on into the L.G. Anchor Block. Continue drilling until you have gone completely through the L.G. Anchor Block also.



NOTE: Even though the plan calls out a "LEFT" and "RIGHT" Main Gear Wire, it actually makes no difference which wire sits in the front or back of the groove - they are interchangeable at this point. The Left Main Gear Wire could go to the back of the groove and the Right Main Gear Wire to the front, or vice versa - it doesn't matter - the gear will function properly either way!

165.

In order for the Main Gear Wires to fit completely down into the groove of the Grooved Landing Gear block, it is necessary to remove a little material from the inside edge of the 5/32" holes to allow for the bends in the wire. Do this with a round file or a modeling knife. Then insert the torsion arm of the Main Gear Wires into the holes and push the wires down tight into the groove.

166.




167.

Place the two nylon Landing Gear Straps over the Main Gear Wires as shown in the picture. Mark, then drill four 1/16" pilot holes for the screws. Use four #4 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws to mount the straps.

Install the 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel and two 5/32" Wheel Collars on the axle of the Nose Gear Wire (in the same manner you did the Main Gear in Step 163). Make sure the wheel turns freely


168.

Re-install the Nose Gear Bearing back on the front of firewall F1 with four 4-40 x1/2" Mounting Bolts..


.

169. Thread the 6-32x1/4" Self-Tapping Screw part way into the hole in the front of the nylon Steering Arm.

170.

Hold the Steering Arm in position in the Nose Gear Bearing while you insert the top end of the Nose Gear Wire up through the holes in the bearing and steering arm. Push the wire in until the top of the coil is about 1/8" away from the bottom of the fuselage. Snug up the Self-Tapping Screw in the Steering Arm just enough to get a slight grip on the Nose Gear Wire (keep it loose enough that you can adjust the steering arm position in the next step).

171.

Align the Nose Wheel so it points straight ahead. Adjust the Steering Arm position on the Nose Gear Wire so that the outer hole in the arm is about 5/8" away from the front of the firewall when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Then tighten the Self-Tapping Screw on the Steering Arm securely!

NOTE: This slightly forward angle to the Steering Arm is necessary to allow the steering arm to turn to the left without hitting the front of the firewall.


ENGINE, PROPELLER, SPINNER

172.

Re-install your engine and mounts onto the front of firewall F1 with four 6-32 x3/4" Mounting Bolts.

173.

Refer to the instructions that came with your engine, and also to the chapter on "PROPELLERS" in "THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL" book, to select the correct size propeller to use on your KADET LT-40. As noted on the plan, a 10-6 prop will usually be the best choice for a standard .40 size R/C 2-stroke engine.


174.

A 2" dia. SIG Spinner is included in this kit, packed in a plastic bag. Inside the bag you will also find two 4-40 socket-head bolts and a group of four molded plastic "adapter rings". Pull the nose cone portion of the spinner off of the back plate. Choose the correct diameter adapter ring to fit your engineís crankshaft, and press the ring into the hole in the middle of the back plate. Insert the socket-head bolts into the holes in the nose cone.

175.

Mount the Propeller and Spinner onto the engine in the order shown. First slip the back plate onto the engine crankshaft, then the propeller, then the prop washer, and finally the prop nut. Position the propeller so it lines up with the bulges on the edge of the back plate (the bulges indicate where the openings in the nose cone will be). Tighten the prop nut finger tight for now.

176.

Slip the nose cone on and check to see if the propeller clears the openings. If necessary, loosen the prop nut, reposition the propeller, re-tighten the prop nut, and then check again. Adjust as many times as necessary to make sure that the propeller comes out the center of the openings.
THE PROPELLER MUST NOT TOUCH THE NOSE CONE!
When you have it in the right position, tighten the prop nut securely.


177.

Install the nose cone and tighten the socket-head bolts with a hex "allen" wrench.

RADIO INSTALLATION

NOTE: The receivers and servos of different brand radios are not all the same size! Consequently, it is practically impossible for us to guarantee that every word and picture in this next sequence will pertain exactly to your installation. As you go along, you may notice some differences between your radio equipment and ours! Nonetheless, most of the radio system components will be close enough in size and appearance that you should be able to figure out for yourself how to handle any minor differences. Follow the instructions as closely as possible. If you have any questions, seek the advice of an experienced modeler. The installation of the control system in your new model is very important! It must be done correctly in order for your airplane to fly successfully and safely.

.

Mounting The Fuselage Servos

178.

Locate the die-cut plywood part FSM (fuselage servo mount). Mount your throttle, elevator, and rudder servos in FSM using the screws, washers, and rubber grommets that came with your radio system. Be sure to orient the servos in FSM as shown in the Fuselage Top View.
CAUTION: The rubber grommets act as shock absorbers and prevent engine vibration from damaging the electronics in the servos. Do not over tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where they compress the rubber grommets so far that the grommets loose all shock absorbing ability. Tighten the screws just enough to make contact with the grommets and keep the servos in place.


179.

Set FSM in place inside the fuselage, on the "shelf" provided by the fuselage doublers. Slide FSM fore or aft until its front edge is 1-7/8" behind former F2. (Do not locate FSM further aft unless you are using an abnormally heavy engine!) Flow Medium CA glue into the joints between the edges of FSM and the fuselage sides. Be careful to not get any glue on the servos or servo wires.

Nose Gear Control

180.

Locate the plastic bag containing four complete Pushrod Connectors.
(NOTE: A Pushrod Connector consists of a brass connector body, a 4-40 set screw, and a nylon retainer - see drawing).
Open the bag and assemble one Pushrod Connector in the innermost hole on the left side of the Rudder servo control arm. Assemble another Pushrod Connector in the outermost hole of the nose gear Steering Arm (notice on the plan that this connector goes on upside down).


181.

Locate one piece of Straight Music Wire 1/16" dia. x18" long to make the nose gear pushrod. Use the cutting jaws of a needle nose pliers to cut the piece to 14-1/2" long. Put a slight bend in one end of the wire, matching the angle on the plan at the rudder servo.

182.

Locate one piece of Small Dia. Nylon Pushrod Tubing (1/8" O.D. x12" long). Use a sharp modeling knife to cut the piece to 11-1/4" long.


183.

Slide the music wire inside the nylon pushrod tubing. Then insert the pushrod assembly into the fuselage from the rudder servo area, through the nose section of the model, under the tank floor, and out the hole in the bottom left corner of the firewall, to the steering arm. Insert the front end of the wire into the pushrod connector on the steering arm. Insert the angled end of the wire into the pushrod connector on the rudder servo. Point the nose wheel straight ahead, check that the rudder servo is in neutral position, and then tighten the set screws in both pushrod connectors.

184.

Adjust the position of the nylon pushrod tubing on the music wire until only about 1/16" of tubing is sticking out past the front of the firewall. Use Slow CA to glue the nylon pushrod tubing permanently in the notch in the left side of former F2.


185.

Temporarily plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation of the nose gear pushrod. If you sense any binding in the nose gear movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full right movement of the transmitterís rudder control stick, the nose wheel should pivot right approximately the amount shown here. The same amount for left.

NOTE: The exact amount of maximum nose wheel travel is not as critical as the other flight control surfaces will be. A good rule of thumb, especially for new pilots, is that less travel is better than more! You do not need any more than 10o-15o of travel each way! Too much travel can cause over controlling on the takeoff and landing roll, often leading to model damage! If you put the pushrod connectors in the outermost hole of the steering arm and the innermost hole of the servo, as instructed above, you should end up with about the correct amount of travel.

.

>
Throttle Control

186.

Assemble one Pushrod Connector in the middle hole of the throttle servo control arm. Assemble another Pushrod Connector in the bottom hole of the engineís carburetor control arm.


187.

Locate one piece of Straight Music Wire 1/16" dia. x18" long to make the throttle pushrod. Use the cutting jaws of a needle nose pliers to cut the piece to 15" long. Make two bends in one end of the wire, matching the angles shown on the plan top view of the throttle pushrod.

(NOTE: This offset in the throttle pushrod wire may need to be changed slightly depending upon the exact location of your engineís carburetor control arm. Some arms may be a little closer to the fuselage side, while some may be closer to the engineís center-line. For most 2-stroke .40 R/C engines it will simply be a matter of increasing or decreasing the angle of the two bends to change the total distance of the offset in the wire. If you need to change the bends, change both bends the same amount, always keeping the two legs of the wire parallel to each other.)

188.

Locate one piece of Small Dia. Nylon Pushrod Tubing (1/8" O.D. x 12" long). Use a sharp modeling knife to cut the piece to 9-1/4" long.

189.

Slide the music wire inside the nylon pushrod tubing. Then insert the straight end of the pushrod assembly into the fuselage from the front, through the hole in F1, through the nose section of the model, through the hole in F2, and finally into the hole in the throttle servo pushrod connector. Insert the angled end of the wire into the pushrod connector on the carburetor control arm. Put the carburetor control arm in high throttle position, put the throttle servo in high throttle position, and then tighten the set screws in both pushrod connectors.

190.

Adjust the position of the nylon pushrod tubing on the music wire until only about 1/2" of tubing is sticking out past the front of the firewall. Use Slow CA to glue the nylon pushrod tubing permanently in the holes in F1 and F2.

191.

Temporarily plug the throttle servo into the receiver and test the operation of the throttle pushrod. If there is any binding in the throttle movement, find the cause and fix it now. Make adjustments to the throttle pushrod setup until you can achieve these results:

TX
Stick
Trim
Lever
Carburetor Result
Forward Forward Fully Open High Speed
Back Forward Slightly Open Good Idle
Back Back Fully Closed Kill Engine



.

I
NOTE: Adjusting carburetor linkage can be a little tricky! If you have binding, check for an incorrect amount of offset (bend) in the pushrod wire at the carburetor. If necessary, re-bend the wire to eliminate the bind. If the throttle servo is binding or "stalling" because it has too much travel compared to the carburetor travel, you will need to move the pushrod connectors to different holes in the servo or carburetor arms. You may also have to loosen one of the pushrod connectors to re-adjust the overall pushrod length. All or some of these things may need to be adjusted to get the carburetor working properly. Refer to "THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL" book for additional help.

Control Horn Basics

1.

Sometimes the holes in molded plastic control horns and servo arms end up being a little undersize, making it very hard to install the R/C Links and Pushrod Connectors that attach to them. All of the R/C Links and Pushrod Connectors in this kit have a pin size of 1/16" dia. If you have difficulty getting the pins to go into the holes in the control horns or servo arms, open up the holes with a 1/16" dia. drill bit. DO NOT USE A BIT LARGER THAN 1/16" DIAMETER!

2.

Nylon control horns should always be mounted so that the adjustment holes in the control arm line up with the hinge line of the control surfaces! If not, the control surface will have unequal travel in one direction.

3.

Some radios have a feature called "End Point Adjustment" (sometimes called "Adjustable Travel Volume") that allows the user to electronically adjust the total travel of the servos, and thus, the total travel of the control surfaces. This is a very handy feature! If you do not have this radio feature, you can still make control surface travel adjustments by mechanical means. Move the linkages in the directions shown to get more or less travel.


Rudder Control

192.

Locate the Small Nylon Control Horn (4 holes) and two #2 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws for the Rudder. Cut the Control Horn and the Retainer Plate apart. Hold the Control Horn in exact position (see plan) on the left side of the rudder and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill pilot holes through the rudder with a 1/16" dia. drill bit (turn the bit with your fingers, a drill is not necessary). Mount the Control Horn onto the rudder with the Sheet Metal Screws and Retainer Plate.
NOTE: Turn the screws down until both the control horn and retainer plate make firm contact with the balsa. Then, turn each screw in 1/2 turn further. By tightening the screws in this manner, the control horn will not crush the balsa.


193.

Cut one of the 10" Threaded Steel Rods to 7" overall length. Cut the plain end of the rod, not the threaded end!

194.

Locate one piece of Small Dia. Nylon Pushrod Tubing (1/8" O.D. x38" long). Slide the plain end of the 7" long threaded steel rod inside the tubing, all the way up to the beginning of the threads. Now get a good grip on the threaded portion of the steel rod, and on the nylon tube, and start screwing the threads into the tubing. Keep turning the rod until a MINIMUM of 1/8" of threads are inside the nylon tubing (3/16" is even better).


195.

Screw one of the Nylon R/C Links onto the threads remaining outside the nylon pushrod tube. Screw it halfway onto the exposed threads - until there are the same amount of exposed threads in front and back of the R/C Link.

196.

Slide the rudder pushrod (from the rudder end) inside the larger nylon pushrod tube that is already in the fuselage. Slide it in until the nylon R/C link is even with the rudder control horn. Pry open the R/C link, clip it into the outermost hole of the control horn, and then snap it shut. Now reach into the fuselage and try operating the rudder pushrod from the servo end. It should work smooth and easy. If not, figure out why and fix it.

.

197. Set the rudder in neutral position. Mark the servo end of the smaller (inner) nylon pushrod tube exactly 1" from the hole in the rudder servo arm. Cut off the nylon tube at the mark.

198.

(Recall steps 193, 194, 195.) Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end of the inner nylon pushrod tube, and screw a minimum of 1/8" of threads into the tubing. Screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. Clip the R/C link into the rudder servo arm.




199.

Temporarily plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation of the rudder. If you sense any binding in the rudder movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of the transmitterís rudder control stick, the rudder should move approximately 1" right and 1" left.

NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of rudder travel, try moving the nylon R/C link to a different hole in the servo arm. Also, fine tune the overall length of the rudder pushrod, by screwing one or both of the nylon R/C links further in or out, until the rudder is exactly neutral when the transmitter stick (and trim lever) is neutral.

Elevator Control

200.

(Recall step 192.) Mount the Medium Nylon Control Horn (5 holes) on the bottom of the Elevator using two #2 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws. NOTE: The control arm of the Elevator Horn should be exactly in the center of the tail opening so that the R/C link wonít scrape on the sides of the fuselage.

201.

(Recall steps 193, 194, 195.) Cut a 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Slide the plain end of the steel rod inside a piece of Small Dia. Nylon Pushrod Tubing (1/8" O.D. x38" long), and screw a minimum of 1/8" of threads inside the tubing. Screw a Nylon R/C Link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod.

202.

Slide the elevator pushrod (from the elevator end) inside the larger nylon pushrod tube that is already in the fuselage. Slide it in until the nylon R/C link can be snapped into the bottom hole of the elevator control horn. Now reach into the fuselage and try operating the elevator pushrod from the servo end. It should work smooth and easy. If not, figure out why and fix it.




203.

Set the elevator in neutral position. Cut off the servo end of the smaller (inner) nylon pushrod tube exactly 1" from the hole in the elevator servo arm. Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end of the inner nylon pushrod tube, and screw a minimum of 1/8" of threads into the tubing. Screw a Nylon R/C Link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. Clip the R/C Link into the elevator servo arm.

204.

Temporarily plug the elevator servo into the receiver and test the operation of the elevator. If you sense any binding in the elevator movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full up and down movement of the transmitterís elevator control stick, the elevator should move approximately 9/16" up and 9/16" down.

NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of elevator travel, try moving the nylon R/C link to a different hole in the servo arm. Also, fine tune the overall length of the elevator pushrod, by screwing one or both of the nylon R/C links further in or out, until the elevator is exactly neutral when the transmitter stick (and trim lever) is neutral.

.

Aileron Control

205.

(Recall step 178.) Mount your aileron servo in plywood part ASM (aileron servo mount), which is already installed on the bottom of the wing. REMEMBER: Do not over tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where they compress the rubber grommets too far.

206.

Locate the Nylon Aileron Connectors and cut them apart. Thread one Nylon Aileron Connector onto the end of each Aileron Torque Rod. Screw the connectors on until they are about 1/8" past the tip of the torque rods (see Plan Sheet 1, Fuselage Side View).

207.

The aileron pushrods are made from two 10" Threaded Steel Rods. Screw a Nylon R/C Link halfway onto the threaded end of each rod. Then clip the R/C Links into the holes in the Nylon Aileron Connectors and line up the pushrods with the servo arms.

208.

Tape the ailerons in neutral position (the bottom of the ailerons and the wing should be flush). Mark and cut the plain end of the pushrod wires 5/8" short of the holes in the aileron servo arm.





209.

Solder an R/C Solder Link onto the end of each pushrod wire.
NOTE: Itís best to take the pushrods off for soldering. You wouldnít want to drop a piece of hot solder and burn a hole through the wing. Also, make sure the pushrod wire sticks completely inside the barrel of the solder link.

210.

When done soldering, untape the ailerons and install the aileron pushrods between the servo and the torque rods. It will probably be necessary to re-adjust the overall length of the aileron pushrods, by screwing the Nylon R/C Links further in or out, to get both ailerons into neutral position at the same time (make sure the aileron servo is neutral while doing this).

211.

Temporarily plug the aileron servo into the receiver and test the operation of the ailerons. If you sense any binding in the aileron movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of the transmitterís aileron control stick, the ailerons should move approximately 3/8" up and 3/8" down.
NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of aileron travel, try moving the nylon R/C links to a different hole in the servo arm. You can also screw the Aileron Connectors up or down on the Torque Rods to increase or decrease the amount of travel.

Why Solder Links
You may be wondering why we provided R/C Solder Links for the servo ends of the aileron pushrods, when all the rest of the control system installation is solderless! Why didnít we use more Pushrod Connectors, or maybe just a "Z" bend in the wire? Well first off, "Z" bends are a good alternative, but we felt that they are too difficult for a beginner to make correctly on his first try. Second, Pushrod Connectors are great, but not in all situations. They are more than adequate for non-aerodynamic controls like the throttle and nose gear. However the set screw in a Pushrod Connector can come loose! If that happens to the throttle or nose gear, it most likely wonít cause any serious problem. But if it happens to the ailerons, elevator, or rudder, the airplane will most likely crash! Thatís why you donít see any Pushrod Connectors on the ailerons, elevator, or rudder pushrods of the KADET LT-40!
If you have never soldered before, donít worry, itís not difficult. The hardest part will probably be coming up with a soldering iron (or gun). If you donít want to purchase one at this time, seek the assistance of someone who already has one and knows how to use it. The secret to easy soldering is to use plenty of heat! You need a heavy-duty soldering iron to do this job, not one of the little "pencil" style irons that are only intended for soldering small electrical wires and components. It will take a soldering iron of at least 75 watts (100w or 200w is better) to solder the R/C Solder Links and pushrod wires in this kit. Use ROSIN CORE SOLDER (60% tin, 40% lead) and a good brand of SOLDERING PASTE FLUX. Put the wire in a vise. Coat the end of the wire with soldering paste flux. Slide on the R/C Solder Link. Press the tip of the soldering iron firmly to the outside of the barrel of the R/C Solder Link. Let it heat! Keep the iron against the barrel while you touch the tip of your solder to the joint (not to the soldering iron). When the two parts get hot enough, the solder will melt and flow into the joint. Continue flowing solder into the joint until it is full. Let cool. Wipe the solder joint clean with a rag.

.

Receiver Battery Pack

212.

Wrap the battery pack with a single layer of 1/2" thick soft foam rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape or rubber bands to hold the foam around the battery. Install the wrapped battery pack inside the nose of the model, under the fuel tank floor, in the position shown on the plan (fuselage side view). Try to keep the battery pack as far to the right side of the fuselage as possible to avoid interfering with the nose gear pushrod.

Receiver

IMPORTANT: Do not cut the antenna wire coming out of the receiver or attempt to fly your model with the antenna wire folded or coiled up! The antenna length is predetermined by the radio manufacturer for best signal reception. Shortening or lengthening the antenna wire can detune the receiver.


213.

Drill a 1/16" dia. hole completely through the bottom of the fuselage, about 3-1/2" behind the firewall. This hole is for the receiver antenna wire to exit the fuselage. Make sure the hole will miss the battery pack before you start drilling! Put a single drop of Thin CA glue on the hole to keep the covering from coming loose.

Let dry completely! NOTE: These instructions describe running the antenna outside along the bottom of the fuselage. There are a lot of other ways to handle the routing of a receiver antenna. If you prefer a different method, by all means use it. The main thing to keep in mind is that you should always strive to keep the antenna as far away as possible from all the servo and battery wires.

214.

Wrap the receiver with a single layer of 1/2" thick soft foam rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape or rubber bands to hold the foam around the receiver.

215.

Following the radio manufacturerís instructions, plug all the wires for the servos, battery pack, and switch harness into the receiver so the radio system is fully operational. Double check to be sure that each servo is plugged into its correct receiver terminal and that it is responding properly.
NOTE: Since the receiver will be hard to get at, you should use a short "extension" wire (available from the radio manufacturer) for the ailerons. Plug the extension wire into the receiverís aileron terminal. Whenever you take the wing on/off the model, you can connect/disconnect the ailerons at the plug-in between the extension wire and the servo wire, leaving the extension wire itself permanently plugged into the receiver.

216.

Install the wrapped receiver inside the nose of the model, right behind the battery pack. Before you get the receiver completely in place, poke the antenna wire down through the hole in the bottom of the fuselage (use an "antenna strain relief" fitting if one came with your radio). Make sure the antenna wire is not tangled up in the servo and battery wires! Continue pulling the antenna out the bottom of the fuselage as you slide the receiver forward against the battery pack. If the receiver seems loose in the nose of the model, pack additional pieces of foam rubber around it to make sure it cannot move around in flight.





217.

Anchor the loose end of the antenna on the outside of the model near the rear of the fuselage using a small rubber band and a T-Pin (an "antenna hook" is also handy if one came with your radio). Stick the T-Pin into the bottom of the fuselage at an angle, as shown. Put a drop or two of Slow CA glue on the pin to keep it in place. Tie the rubber band to the antenna (or the antenna hook) and then loop it over the T-Pin. The antenna should be just taught, not tight! The rubber band allows a certain amount of give in case the antenna is snagged by accident.

218.

Cut an opening in the left side of the fuselage (the side away from the exhaust) to accommodate the radioís on/off switch. Use the switch cover plate as a guide to mark the location and size of the opening and the two holes for the mounting screws. Install switch.

CAUTION: Make sure the opening you cut for the switchís on/off lever is just slightly bigger than the lever, so that the switch will operate safely, without catching or binding on the wood.

.


Fuel Tank

219.

Pull the stopper cap out of the front of the fuel tank. Inside the tank there should be two brass tubes, one brass clunk weight, and a short piece of fuel line tubing. Shake the tank to get these parts out through the hole. You may have to reach inside the tank with a tweezers or needle nose pliers to get a hold of the fuel line tubing and pull it out (CAUTION: Donít squeeze too hard and put a hole in the tubing). Now shake the tank a few more times to make sure there is no dirt or plastic shavings inside!

220.

Take a close look at the stopper cap. Rotate the front plastic cap, the middle rubber stopper, and the rear plastic cap until the holes line up. You should be able to see daylight through two of the three holes. NOTE: We will only be using two of the holes. Leave the third hole closed.

221.

Cut one of the brass tubes to 1-1/2" long - this will be the Fuel Feed Tube. Cut the other brass tube to 2" long - this will be the Vent Tube. A razor saw works well for cutting the brass tubing. Clean up the sawn end of the tubing with 220 grit sandpaper to remove any burrs or sharp edges that might cut the fuel line tubing later.

222.

Carefully poke the brass tubes through the two open holes in the stopper cap. Keep pushing the tubes in until 3/8" of tube sticks out in front of the stopper cap. (PLAN AHEAD: The two brass tubes should end up horizontally opposed to each other at the bottom of the stopper cap. The short fuel feed tube should be on the left side, and the long vent tube on the right.)

223.

Put the plain end of a 3/32" dia. drill bit about 1/4" inside the back end of the vent tube. Using the drill bit for leverage, slowly bend the back end of the vent tube upwards about 45ļ, or until the end of the tube is even with the top of the stopper cap.






224.

Cut the piece of fuel line tubing that came with the tank to 3-1/4" long. Slide one end of the tubing onto the brass clunk weight. Slide the other end of the tubing over the back end of the fuel feed tube.

225.

Insert completed assembly into the neck of the fuel tank. Rotate the stopper cap so the brass tubes are horizontal at the bottom of the stopper. Hold the tank up to a strong light and look inside to see if the vent tube is close to the top of the tank. Also check to see if the brass clunk weight inside the tank swings freely from side-to-side, whether the tank is right side up or upside down. If the clunk weight is hitting the back wall of the tank, take the stopper cap back out, shorten the length of the fuel line tubing a little, and then test again. When everything is right, tighten the screw in the stopper cap until the cap is snug in the neck of the tank.
226. Test the fuel tank for leaks! Fill your kitchen sink with water. Slip the 12" long piece of Fuel Line Tubing that came in the kit onto the tankís vent tube. Submerge the tank in the water, holding your thumb firmly over the fuel feed tube. Blow air into the other end of the fuel line tubing and watch for air bubbles coming around the cap of the tank. If itís leaking, tighten the screw in the cap a little at a time until the leaking stops.

227.

Cut the piece of 12" long Fuel Line Tubing into two 6" long pieces. Slip one piece onto the tankís fuel feed tube and the other onto the vent tube. Run the loose ends of the fuel line tubing through the hole in the firewall at the same time that you are placing the tank in the fuselage.

.

228. Slide the fuel tank up against the back of the firewall. Cut a piece of scrap wood 3-1/4" long (can be stick or sheet, balsa or plywood) to use as a rear tank brace. Reach in through the servo area and wedge the brace between the fuselage sides, right up tight against the back end of the tank. Spread some Slow CA glue on the ends of the brace to glue it to the fuselage sides. (HINT: Put some glue on the end of a long stick or nail, then reach in and dab the glue on the ends of the brace.) This brace will insure that the tank cannot shift backwards in flight.




229.

Cut two strips of 1/2" thick soft foam rubber (like you wrapped the receiver and battery pack with) to fit along the sides of the fuel tank, between the tank and the fuselage sides. This is to keep the tank from shifting sideways in flight.

230.

Cut another strip of 1/2" thick soft foam rubber to lay on top of the tank, filling the space between the tank and the Hatch. Screw the Hatch in place.

231.

Attach the fuel feed line to the engineís carburetor and the vent line to the pressure fitting on the muffler. (NOTE: Trim off any excess length of fuel line tubing. The fuel lines should be kept as short as possible for best fuel draw, but not so short that there is danger of them coming off in flight. Leave a little slack in the lines.)

Filling The Fuel Tank

To fill a fuel tank with this vent arrangement, first remove the fuel lines from the carburetor and the muffler pressure fitting. Pump the fuel into the tank through the fuel feed line (carb line). When the tank is full, fuel will begin to run out the vent line (muffler line). Stop pumping when you see the fuel start to come out the vent line! Reconnect the fuel lines and you are ready to start the engine.

BALANCE YOUR AIRPLANE

We know that your KADET LT-40 looks done and youíre real anxious to go out and fly it, BUT WAIT A MINUTE - ITíS NOT REALLY DONE YET! It must be balanced! All airplanes, model or full-size, must be accurately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplane that is not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely crash!

PRELIMINARY: To balance your KADET LT-40, all of the parts and components must be installed in their correct positions on the model. The battery pack and receiver must be installed in their correct locations; the propeller, spinner, and muffler must be installed on the engine; the fuel tank and fuel lines must be installed and connected; and every other piece of essential equipment must be installed, ready for flight. ALWAYS BALANCE THE KADET LT-40 WITH THE FUEL TANK EMPTY!

232.

Attach the wing to the fuselage with twelve #67 rubber bands, six per side.

233.

Familiarize yourself with the balance range shown on fuselage side view plan. Three possible balance points are represented in this range, and your KADET-40 will behave differently in flight at each of these three balance points. You should choose the balance point that fits your experience level.

Distance Aft Of Wing L.E.Inches% Of Wing Chord
3-1/2"27%
3-7/8"30%
4-1/4"33%

.


3-1/2", 27% THE BEST BALANCE POINT FOR BEGINNERS!
At this balance point the KADET LT-40 will have its best trainer qualities! It will be super stable in flight and will have strong "hands off, self correcting" tendencies. If this is your first R/C airplane, we strongly recommend that you use this balance point!
3-7/8", 30%
A good middle of the road balance point for modelers who already know how to fly R/C, or for beginners who have progressed far enough that they no longer get disoriented and loose control. The KADET LT-40 will still be perfectly stable, but it wonít return to level flight quite as quickly as it would at the forward balance point.
4-1/4", 33% THIS BALANCE POINT IS DEFINITELY NOT RECOMMENDED FOR BEGINNERS!
The most rearward balance point is only recommended for experienced fliers who want the most aerobatic performance they can get out of a high-wing trainer. This balance point, in conjunction with increased control surface throws, will enable the KADET LT-40 to do advanced aerobatics like spins and snap rolls. With this balance point, the KADET LT-40 takes a long time to self correct.

234.

Using a ruler, measure back from the leading edge of the wing to the balance point you want to use (3-1/2" for beginners). Make a pencil mark at this point on the bottom of the wing, next to the fuselage. Make the same mark on the other side of the fuselage.

235.

Place a fingertip on each pencil mark and lift the airplane up in the air. No part of the model should be touching anything except your fingertips! If the KADET LT-40 will sit on your fingertips in a level or very slightly nose down attitude, then it is properly balanced and ready to fly.

236.

If the airplane sits on your fingertips in an extreme nose down attitude, then it is nose heavy. You will have to add weight to the rear of the airplane to get it to balance. NOTE: Before adding additional weight to the model, try simply moving the battery pack to a further aft location. The battery pack is relatively heavy and therefore makes a good balancing tool. You might try switching places between the battery and receiver; or move the battery right in front of the servos; or in extreme situations, move it behind the servos. If you canít get your model balanced simply by re-locating the battery pack, then you will have to purchase lead weights from your hobby dealer and glue them into the tail end of the fuselage.

237.

If the airplane sits on your fingertips with the tail down, it is tail heavy. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY IT! A tail heavy model is very dangerous and will most likely crash!! Lead weight will have to be added to the nose of the model to bring it into balance. The weights can be glued to the inside of the fuselage "cheeks" in front of the firewall; or inside the fuselage alongside the fuel tank. There are also "spinner weights" available for tail heavy models. Wherever you put the balancing weight, make sure it cannot loose in flight!

If you ever change any major components in your KADET LT-40, such as the engine, muffler, battery pack, etc., be sure to re-balance the model!

WHY MODELS MUST BE INDIVIDUALLY BALANCED
It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automatically have the correct balance point. Not everyone uses the same engine, or muffler, or radio, or covering material - and all those items can vary in weight! You might be surprised to know that .40 size 2-stroke R/C model engines can vary in weight from 11 oz. to 18 oz. - thatís almost a half pound difference, way out on the nose of your model! There can even be as much as a 3/4 oz. difference in weight between different brands of 10-6 props! So, thatís why every model must be balanced before flying. Donít feel that whatever the balance point your model came out at is "good enough". Check carefully and make whatever adjustments are required. Trying to fly an out of balance model is dangerous!

PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT

Be certain to range check your radio equipment according to the manufacturerís instructions before attempting to fly.

Run your engine for the first time on the ground. A lot of problems can be avoided if your new engine has been "broken in" by running at least two tanks of fuel through it on a test stand before you attempt to fly.

.


Double check the alignment and movement of all the controls one more time! Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper direction when you move the sticks. Youíd be amazed to know how many models have been destroyed on takeoff with one of the controls reversed. If youíre in this hobby for very long, you will see it happen. Donít let it happen to you! Itís a good idea to get into the habit of checking for proper control response every time you get ready to fly.

Adjust all of your pushrod linkages so that the control surfaces are in their neutral position when the transmitter sticks and trim levers are centered. When you get to the flying field, donít be surprised is the elevator and rudder are suddenly misaligned after you had them perfect at home. Temperature and humidity changes can cause nylon pushrods, like those on the KADET LT-40ís elevator and rudder, to shrink or expand slightly. If they are just slightly out of neutral, use the trim levers on the transmitter to neutralize them again right before flying.

Adjust your pushrod linkages as necessary to provide the prescribed amount of control surface travel. Make sure all of the R/C Links are securely snapped shut.

ELEVATOR 9/16" UP, 9/16" DOWNRECOMMENDED
CONTROL
SURFACE TRAVEL
RUDDER1" LEFT, 1" RIGHT
AILERONS3/8" UP, 3/8" DOWN
THROTTLE Tx StickTrim LeverCarbResult
ForwardForwardFully OpenHigh Speed
BackForwardSlightly OpenGood Idle
BackBackFully ClosedKill Engine

Make sure none of the pushrods are binding or the servos stalling.




Make sure all of the screws and bolts on your model are tight. Double check to see that all of the servos are secure and all of the servo control arms are screwed on firmly.

ALWAYS USE AT LEAST TWELVE #67 RUBBER BANDS TO HOLD THE WING ON THE KADET LT-40!

Charge your radio batteries before every flying session!

Be sure to read "THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL". It contains many more valuable tips and ideas to help make your first R/C flight a success.

Find A Safe Place To Fly

Donít try to fly your KADET LT-40 in your backyard, at the local school yard, or in any other heavily populated area! If you have never seen an R/C airplane fly before, you probably donít realize how much room you really need. Itís more than most people think! A school yard may look inviting, but it is too close to people, houses, power lines, and possible radio interference.

The best place to fly your model is at a designated model airplane club flying field. Ask your hobby shop dealer if there is a model club in your area and join. Not only will you have access to a large, safe place to fly, but you will enjoy being around all types of R/C model airplanes and talking to their builders.

.

Learning To Fly RC

The KADET LT-40 is designed to give you the best possible chance to succeed in learning to fly R/C. However, learning to fly model airplanes is not a skill you can learn overnight. Itís very similar to learning to fly a real airplane in that you should go through a learning phase with an instructor before you try to pilot the airplane yourself. A lot of things can go wrong with these machines, and if you are not prepared to deal with them instantly, you will loose your brand new airplane in a crash. To practically eliminate any chance that your first flight will end in disaster, we strongly recommend that you seek the assistance of a competent R/C pilot to help you with your first flights.

An instructor serves two purposes. First, he will take your model up for its first test flight to make sure it is performing properly before you try to fly it. When a brand new R/C model takes off for the first time, there is no way of knowing which way it is going to go. Some models will try to climb steeply, while others may want to go down.

Some will try to turn left, other right. Some models will be doing both at the same time! It doesnít mean that there is anything wrong with the model, but these minor differences must be "trimmed out" in order for the model to fly "hands-off" straight and level. An experienced pilot can instantly correct for out of trim conditions before the model crashes into the ground. An inexperienced beginner has almost no chance of saving an out of trim model!

The second reason for an instructor is to be there to correct any mistakes you make when you take over the controls for the first time. Let the instructor get the model airborne and flying straight and level at a safe attitude ("several mistakes high" as the old saying goes) before he turns the transmitter over to you. You will quickly find out that it is very easy to over control an R/C model and to get disoriented - EVERYONE DOES IT AT FIRST! If you get out of control on your first flight, quickly hand the transmitter back to your instructor so he can rescue the airplane. He will get it leveled off and then let you try it again. Without an instructor, you would not get a second chance!

In addition to not over controlling, another problems beginners need to overcome is the left/right control reversal that happens when a model is flying towards you one minute, away from you the next. For example, if you were seated in the cockpit of a full-scale airplane and moved the control stick to the right, the airplane would always turn to your right. Moving the control stick to the left, the airplane would always turn to your left. Well thatís not always true with an R/C airplane! If the model is flying away from you, the controls are normal - right stick makes the airplane go right, left stick makes the airplane go left. But when the model is flying towards you, the controls are reversed - now when you move the stick to the right, the model turns to its right, but that means it turns to your left! This control reversal is very confusing to all first time R/C pilots! More than a few licensed full-scale pilots have found out that flying R/C airplanes is a lot different than flying full-scale airplanes because of this phenomenon.

Itís not that learning to fly R/C is difficult, itís just a lot different than anything you have ever done before. Anyone can learn to fly the KADET LT-40 if they are willing to listen and learn! Remember the first time you tried to ride a bicycle? It seemed completely awkward the first time, but once you learned how, it quickly became very easy. Learning to fly R/C model airplanes also comes quickly to many people.

Fly your KADET LT-40 as often as possible. After you get a few flights under your belt with an instructor at your side, you will begin to feel more comfortable at the controls. Soon you will be flying "solo" with little thought of the moves required. It will just come naturally! Donít get discouraged if you have a minor crack-up. Repair the damage and get back into the air as soon as possible.

GOOD LUCK AND SAFE FLYING!
© Copyright SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

.