WONDER RC66 COVERING

General Instructions

All of the Wonder prototypes were covered with Sig Supercoat Iron-On Plastic Covering. Supercoat is ideal for sport models because it's lightweight and easy to apply. One roll is plenty for a Wonder, but most modelers will want two or more colors.
Details about colors and decal placement for specific versions of the Wonder follow. All four versions have different colors or markings to help distinguish the top of the model from the bottom. This is very important for visibility in flight, especially with small, fast models like the Wonder. Keep this in mind if you plan your own custom color scheme.
We recommend that you cover the wing, fuselage, tail surfaces, control surfaces, and skid all separately before hinging and final assembly. This way the parts are much easier to handle.

The following instructions provide advice and procedures specific to the Wonder. Be sure to read the two pages of step-by-step, photo illustrated instructions included with each roll of Supercoat. If you choose another brand of covering material, be sure to read the manufacturer's directions (supplied with the covering) and follow them carefully.

Surface Preparation

A good covering job starts with a good surface preparation. Regardless of what type of covering you choose, it won't hide poor workmanship. Fill any small surface gaps or dents with a lightweight filler or spackling paste. Sand the entire model with 220-grit sandpaper, then again with 360 or 400-grit sandpaper.

Since it's too difficult to apply covering material to F-1 and the inside of the cowl, they must be fuel-proofed using several coats of clear dope or two coats of polyester (glass) resin, sanded between coats. Finish off the engine area with a few coats of colored Sig Supercoat Dope. (Most of the Sig Supercoat Plastic Covering colors have a matching Sig Supcoat Dope color.)

Covering The Fuselage

The fuselage should be covered with four pieces of material, starting with the bottom, followed by the two sides, and ending with the top. If you're using more than one color, it may take more pieces of material. All seams should overlap about 1/8". When covering solid wood surfaces like the fuselage sides, better results can be obtained by starting at the center and working toward the outer edges, allowing air to escape as you iron.
Experienced modelers know that oily engine exhaust likes to creep into every crack it can find, which means special care must be taken to keep the hatch area as fuel-proof as possible. When you cover the hatch, be sure to cover the front and rear edges, and wrap the material around both sides about 1/4". The covering material on the fuselage sides should wrap around the bottom in the hatch area as well as the wing saddle area.

Covering The Wing

Begin the wing by covering the wingtips and plywood hold down plate. Cover each wingtip with two pieces of material, first the bottom and then the top. Seal each piece securely to the capstrip and sheeting for the end rib. Later, when the main top and bottom covering pieces are applied, they will overlap the wingtip covering on the end rib. Cover the hold-down plate with a single piece of material, extending it about 1/8" past the outside edges of the plate to provide an area for overlap. Cover the main portion of the wing starting with the bottom and then the top so that the seams will be on the bottom where they will be less visible. The top covering should overlap the full width of the leading edge and trailing edge.

Wait until both the top and bottom pieces of covering material have been sealed completely around the edges before shrinking the large open areas between the ribs. Alternate between the top and bottom surface to avoid uneven shrinking which could cause warp. Your sealing iron or a special heat gun can be used (household blow dryers don't provide enough heat). Keep the heat gun moving at all times or you may burn a hole in the covering. If you notice the covering material "ballooning up", put a small pin hole in the bottom of each rib bay to allow the expending air to escape.

Covering The Sheet Balsa Parts

The stabilizer, elevator, fins, ailerons, and canopy pieces should each be covered with two pieces of material - bottom first, then top. Iron the material from the center out to avoid trapping air bubbles.

Don't be alarmed if these small parts bow slightly after covering just one side. This is a common condition that should correct itself after covering the second side.

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Applying The Decals

Cut out the decals with sharp scissors, leaving about 1/32" to 1/16" of clear at all edges and rounding the corners as you cut. Wet the surface on which the decal will be placed with soapy water (use dishwashing detergent). Place the decal on the model and squeegee the water from underneath with a balsa paddle. This procedure allows time for repositioning and prevents air from being trapped under the decal. Allow several hours to dry.

INSTALLING EASY HINGES

Sig's famous Easy Hinges have been included with your kit to hinge all of the control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is actually a three-part laminate - a tough plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material. They have been chemically treated to slow down the reaction of thin CA (which is normally instant), to allow the glue time to soak all the way to the ends of the hinge and into the wood surrounding it. Once the glue has dried, the hinge cannot be pulled from the structure without tearing the wood out with it! We recommend that all surfaces be covered before hinging.






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Using a No.11 X-Acto blade (or similar), cut slots approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinges. Cut three slots in the stabilizer and three matching slots in the elevators at the locations shown on the plans.

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After all of the slots have been cut, insert Easy Hinges halfway into the stabilizer slots. Do not glue the hinges yet! Next, carefully slide the elevator onto the hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the elevator onto the hinges at an angle, one at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all of the hinges at once. Don't be concerned if the hinges aren't perfectly straight or centered in the slots - they'll work fine regardless of their final position.

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  1. To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevator to the maximum amount needed. For best control response, the gap should be as small as possible but big enough to allow full movement of the control surface without binding.
  2. Easy Hinges were designed to use Thin CA (any brand) for maximum glue penetration. Place three or four large drops of thin CA directly onto the hinges in the gap. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all the hinges, then turn the stabilizer over and repeat the gluing process on the other side of each hinge.

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After the glue has cured (3 to 5 minutes) the joint should be flexed to full deflection in each direction a couple of dozen times to reduce the stiffness. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinges as they are almost indestructible.

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  1. The ailerons are hinged like the elevator, but the torque rods must be glued as well. Start by cutting the slots in the wing and the ailerons (two per aileron) and slide the hinges into the ailerons.
  2. Slide a small piece of wax paper between the torque rods and the wing. Working with one aileron at a time, apply Kwik-Set epoxy to the slot and hole in the aileron leading edge and slide it onto the torque rod, working the Easy Hinges into the wing slots at the same time. Before the glue sets, be sure to deflect the aileron back and forth to set the proper hinge gap.
  3. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the wax paper and apply thin CA to the hinges as you did earlier.


FINAL ASSEMBLY

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Use a sharp knife to carefully cut away the covering material on the fins where thry contact the stabilizer. Glue the fins to the stabilizer using a triangle to check their alignment.

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  1. With the wing bolted in place on the fuselage, trial fit the stabilizer/fin assembly. The stabilizer should sit against the back of the wing with no gap. If the stabilizer seems tilted slightly, you should trim the top of one of the fuselage sides until the stabilizer sits level with the wing.
  2. When satisfied with the alignment, draw cut lines on the bottom of the stabilizer at the fuselage sides. Remove the stabilizer and use a sharp knife to cut away the covering on the bottom where it will be glued to the fuselage.

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  1. Hold the stabilizer/fin assembly in place on the fuselage, then glue it firmly with CA working through the hatch opening.
  2. Install the nylon control horn on the elevator so that it's centered in the opening at the back of the fuselage. Use two #2x1/2" sheet metal screws to install the horn, then clip or grind off the pointy ends of the screws.




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Cut out the canopy of your choice from the printed 1/4" balsa sheet, again leaving the entire black line on the parts. Match the bottom edge of the canopy to your wing by taping sandpaper to the wing's upper surface and gently pushing the canopy from side to side.

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If you chose the one-piece Angel canopy, go ahead and round off the upper edge, cover it, and glue it to the top of the wing (after removing a strip of covering material to provide a wood-to-wood joint, of course). The other Wonder versions feature a two-piece canopy with the front portion glued to the wing and the rear portion glued to the stabilizer. Temporarily pin the canopy parts in their proper position on the assembled model, then attach the front and rear canopy parts to each other with a piece of tape on each side. Now the canopy parts can be lifted from the model and their top edges sanded round at the same time so they will match perfectly when installed. Remove the tape, cover the canopy parts, and glue them in place.

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Install your fuel tank, engine and muffler. The easiest way to install the fuel tank (which was prepared in step 40) is to run extra-long fuel lines through F-1, attach them to the tank, then slide the tank into place while gently pulling the fuel lines back through F-1. Now you can bolt your engine mounts to F-1, bolt your engine to the mounts, bolt the muffler to your engine, and cut the fuel lines to their final length. The propeller should be mounted so that it's level with the wing when it comes up against the engine compression, to minimize the chance of breaking it during landings. Attach your spinner cone and the engine installation is complete.

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Glue the skid to the bottom of the fuselage.




RADIO INSTALLATION

Different radio installations using different size servos and receivers are described under specific versions of the Wonder following. One thing that's common to all of them is that they're stuffed into one tight little fuselage! Every radio installation is unique and must be planned carefully to make certain that the servo arms and control linkages have clear room to operate. The following guidelines are meant to provide general information on stuffing a Wonder with radio gear.

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Start your radio installation with the receiver. All of our prototypes had the receiver installed just behind the fuel tank in the opening in F-3. Wrap the receiver in 1/4" foam rubber for protection.

With the receiver in place, now you can install the aileron servo. Measure carefully for the cutout in the wing so that the aileron servo will clear the receiver. Glue the two die-cut 3/32" plywood aileron servo mounts (ASM) to the balsa sheeting, and screw the servo in place. Make the aileron pushrods from threaded rod and nylon clevises then hook them up to the nylon aileron connectors (which should be threaded onto the torque rods). You can use an extension wire from the receiver to the servo, but we typically plug the aileron servo wire directly into the receiver just before bolting on the wing. This saves weight and keeps loose wires to a minimum. You may have to make a small notch in the stabilizer leading edge to clear the torque rods during wing installation.
Now you need to do some decision making. The battery, switch, and remaining servos should be positioned as necessary to achieve the proper balance point on the finished model without having to add weight to the nose or tail. If you're using a very lightweight engine, the battery will probably need to go under the fuel tank and receiver. Heavier engines will dictate a more rearward battery position, possibly behind F-4. Assemble the Wonder , place it on a balancing stand, then shift the components around on the outside of the model until you find the best arrangement.

BALANCING
IMPORTANT: It is vitally important that your Wonder is balanced properly. The correct balance point for first flights is 2-3/8" (plus or minus 1/16") behind the wing leading edge. This is a short-coupled airplane and the balance range is very small. Our prototypes all flew well with the balance point between 2-5/16" and 2-7/16" behind the leading edge. If the balance point is too far forward, the Wonder flies well under power but you can run out of "up" elevator during the landing flare. If the balance is too far back, the plane can become unstable and eventually, uncontrollable.
Oh, and don't use your fingertips for balancing! Build yourself a quick and dirty balancing stand like the one shown in the diagram. Mark the balance point on the bottom of the wing with tiny lengths of striping tape. Shift the radio gear or add weight as necessary to bring the balance point into the proper range. Trying to fly with the balance point too far forward or too far aft is much more dangerous than the slight increase in wing loading caused by adding nose or tail weight. Always balance the model with an empty fuel tank so that it sits level on the balancing stand.

In addition to the fore/aft balance, it's important that you balance the model spanwise. A "heavy wing" on one side can result in poor loop tracking. To check for this, pick up the assembled model by the spinner at the front and under the center of the stabilizer at the rear. Insert weight (small finishing nails work well) into the lighter wingtip until the model is balanced.

The battery should be wrapped in foam rubber and secured inside the fuselage with balsa sticks to keep it from moving. The sticks can be broken away later when you need to remove the battery from the plane.

The throttle servo and the elevator servo on most of our prototypes were installed using servo tape, which works very well on a small model like the Wonder. Here are a few tips for using servo tape:
  • Coat the area of the fuselage where you plan to install the servo with glue, either epoxy or CA, and allow it to dry. The tape will stick much better to this than it will to bare balsa.
  • Clean the servo with alchohol before applying the tape.
  • Cover the entire side of the servo with tape. You want as much bonding as possible.
  • Make certain the servo arm and screw are installed before taping the the throttle servo in position. You won't be able to get at the screw once the servo is taped in place!

The throttle pushrod is a 1/16" steel cable which moves inside a nylon tube. The hole in F-1 has already been drilled for the tubing, but you need another hole in F-3 to route the tubing so that it's pointed directly at the servo arm. Solder the clevis (included in the kit) to the steel cable, route the cable through the nylon tube and into the pushrod connector located on the engine's throttle control arm. Snap the solder clevis on the servo arm and adjust the cable at the pushrod connector end.

The elevator servo is very easy to install through the hatch. Bend a pushrod to suit from a 2-56 threaded rod. At the field, adjustments to the clevis can be made at the rear fuselage opening, if necessary.

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The switch should be mounted on the fuselage side opposite the engine exhaust and where it can't be accidentally bumped during launch. High in the fuselage behind F-4 works well. Route the antenna through the inside of the fuselage, away from all the other wires, and out the rear opening. On very short models like the Wonder, all you can do is let the excess antenna wire dangle behind the airplane. Under no circumstances should the antenna be shortened, folded or bundled.

PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT

Range check your radio equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions before attempting test flights. A lot of problems can also be avoided if your engine has been well broken in and the idle adjustment perfected on a test block or in another airplane before installation in the new model.

Adjust all of your pushrod linkages so that the control surfaces are in their neutral position when the transmitter sticks and trim levers are centered. The control surface movements listed below are recommended for the first flight of your Wonder. These movements will provide the model with a fair degree of aerobatic capability if it's balanced correctly. Test flights may indicate a need for slightly more or less movement, depending on individual model performance and personal preference.

RECOMMENDED CONTROL SURFACE MOVEMENTS

For test flying, the following are suggested:
ELEVATOR 1/4" UP and 1/4" DOWN
AILERONS 5/16" UP and 5/16" DOWN
Measured at the widest point of each control surface

"STANDARD" VERSION


The Standard Wonder is probably the most generic-looking version, but it was the original. All of the other versions were an offshoot of the Standard. Its most distinctive feature has to be the down-turned vortex wingtips. The wingtips probably don't do much aerodynamically for a model of this size, but they do look good and generate lots of comments from fellow modelers.


Covering the "Standard"

The Standard color scheme is easy to see in the air thanks to the bold white stripes on the top of the wing. The black striping tape helps to hide any imperfections where the blue and white coverings overlap. You will need the following materials to finish the Standard version:
  • Medium Blue Supercoat Covering- Wing, bottom half of fuselage, stabilizer, and fins.
  • White Supercoat Covering- Wing and stabilizer stripes and top half of fuselage.
  • Black Supercoat Covering- Front canopy piece.
  • 1/4" Black SuperStripe Tape- Stripes between whie and blue.
  • Decal Sheet- SIGDKM266A
Begin the wing by ironing on the white stripes. The center stripe should be cut 5" wide, and the outboard stripes should be 2-5/8". Notice the outside stripes wrap around the leading edge, but only extend about 3/4" back on the lower surface. The center stripe is used on both the top and the bottom.

The blue is applied in lots of places, starting with the wingtips. Cover each tip with two pieces of material, first the bottom, then the top. Use the edge of your iron to apply the covering to the concave (bottom) portion of the vortex tips. Finish the bottom of the wing with two more pieces, carefully cut to overlap the wingtip covering on the outer end and the white center stripe on the inner end. The upper wing surface will need four pieces of blue covering material. Make all of your overlaps about 1/4".

Use the same procedure when covering the fuselage, stabilizer, and ailerons. Start with white and finish with blue, again overlapping 1/4".

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Engine Installation

The engine shown on the Standard is a Fox .19BB. With schneurle porting and ball bearings, its power is hard to beat. Unfortunately, it's also hard to find because this engine is no longer in production. We've shown it here to give you an idea of how a big, .19-size engine looks on the nose.

The performance with a hot .19 is, well, phenomenal! Expect blistering level flight speeds and vertical climbs that won't stop until you want them to. As great as it sounds, this kind of power isn't for everybody. It takes a lot of flying experience to safely handle fast model airplanes of any type. A pilot needs to be one step ahead of his machine at all times, which can be difficult with a small hot rod like the Wonder. Yes, with a throttle you can slow it down, but the temptation is to just let it rip! Remember, the faster a plane flies, the more sensitive it is to control inputs. Be smooth on the sticks!

Radio Installation

Like all of our Wonders, the receiver is installed behind the fuel tank in the opening in F-3. This Futaba R114H receiver is pretty small, so it has lots of padding around it. Notice that the servo connection area is left exposed so that the aileron servo can be plugged in easily when installing the wing.

Size-wise, the S132 servos aren't as big as standard servos, but they're bigger than micros. The throttle and elevator servos are both attached with servo tape. The 250 maH battery had to be installed next to the elevator servo under the hatch to offset the weight of the big engine. It's held in place by the servo on one side and a scrap balsa stick.

The aileron servo is mounted to the plywood aileron servo mounts (ASM). Notice the servo arm uses two offset spokes of a six-spoke servo arm (the other four are cut off). This was done to counteract the slight amount of negative differential that you naturally get from the swept-forward torque rods. Without getting too technical, what you're looking for is equal up and down movement of the ailerons. If a straight servo arm doesn't give you equal movement, you can try an offset arm like the one shown in the photo.




"RUSSIAN" VERSION



This version was styled like Soviet jet fighters, which typically feature sharp angular lines. The control surfaces on the Russian are bigger than the other versions, but it seems to fly about the same. All of the Wonders roll and loop plenty fast!


Covering the "Russian"

The color scheme for this version was loosely translated from a picture that we found of an aerobatic Russian Jet. The contrastiing red and silver makes it easy to tell the top from the bottom during flight. The Soviets were never too interested in decorating their airplanes, so the markings on this version were kept pretty simple.

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To duplicate the color scheme of the Russian, you will need the following materials:
  • Fokker Red Supercoat Covering- Top of win and stabilizer, top half of fuselage and fins.
  • Silver Supercoat Covering- Bottom of wing and stabilizer, bottom half of fuselage and fins.
  • Black Supercoat Covering- Front canopy piece.
  • 1/16" Black SuperStripe Tape- Rudder outlines on fins.
  • Decal Sheet- SIGDKM266B

In general, cover with silver first followed by red. The red should overlap the silver about 1/8". To keep the edges of the red covering from "squirming" around, try touching the overlap areas with the iron first. Avoid overheating the plastic covering, which can pull the edges. The covering on the wingtips has to be cut very carefully to look good. Instead of pushing a knife or razor blade through the covering, try holding the blade against the cut line while pulling on the excess covering. Take your time!

The fake rudder outlines on the fins are made with striping tape.
You can cut out the pattern from the plans to help keep them equal in size.

Engine Installation



The Russian flew extremely well with an Enya .15 IV TV. This is a crossflow, plain bearing engine that's ideal for sport models like the Wonder.
It's not the most powerful .15 on the market, but it's built well, starts easy, and runs reliably flight after flight. It's best feature is the angled needle valve that helps keep your fingers away from the propeller while adjusting the mixture.

The wood propeller shown in the photo was something of an experiement. It actually held up very well through several landings, but eventually broke. Stick with reinforced nylon props and check them carefully after every flight.

Radio Installation

The radio installation in our Russian prototype is just like the "Typical Engine and Radio Installation" drawing on the plan. The photos show a standard size Airtronics FM receiver and three standard size Airtronic servos. The 270 maH battery pack is wrapped in foam below the fuel tank.

The throttle servo is taped to the bottom of the fuselage, but the elevator servo is bolted to hardwood blocks which were glued to the fuselage side.

Notice the switch is mounted way in the back, under the hatch. On this particular model, the charging jack was routed out the rear fuselage opening.

The aileron servo on this model used a standard straight-across servo arm, which worked just fine. Most of the servo wire is still inside the wing, out of harms way.



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"ANGEL" VERSION


The Navy's flight demonstration team, the Blue Angels, was the obvious inspiration for this Wonder version. Even though it's not jet-powered, the Angel Wonder can do a pretty impressive aerobatic routine itself! The big canopy on the Angel is easier to install than the others because it doesn't have to match up with another piece glued to the stabilizer. You might also notice that the very aft end of the fuselage is cut off at and angle to match the fins - it just seemed to look better that way!


Covering the "Angel"

The Angel is the simplest Wonder to cover because it's basically all one color. The top of the plane is distinguished with some large decals and bright yellow stripes. To duplicate the Angel color scheme, you'll need the following materials:
  • Dark Blue Supercoat Covering- Entire airframe.
  • Cub Yellow Supercoat Covering- Wing tips, fin tips.
  • Silver Supercoat Covering- Canopy.
  • Cub Yellow SuperTrim- Stripes on top of wing and stabilizer.
  • Silver SuperTrim- Wing and fin leading edges.
  • Decal Sheet- SIGDKM266C


Cover the wingtips and fin tips with yellow first, then cover the rest of the airframe with dark blue. The yellow stripes should be cut in one piece, applied to the assembled airplane, then cut at the junction of the wing and stabilizer. The silver leading edges are 1"x16-1/2" strips of trim material. Center the strips on the leading edge so that there is an equal amount on the top and bottom wing surface. The outboard end of the silver stripes should end at the yellow wingtip. The silver leading edge pieces for the fins are cut from trim material using the pattern shown on the plan.

Engine Installation

The ASP .12 engine that's bolted to the front of the Angel is a true winner. It's powerful, idles well, and is very economical on fuel. We used a two ounce tank in our prototype, and still had more flight duration than we really needed. The performance with this size of engine is still pretty hot, you just can't go up, up out of sight.



Radio Installation

Again the Futaba R114H receiver was installed in the F-3 opening. The 250 maH battery on this particular model needed to be located at the aft end of the wing opening, just ahead of F-4. It's held in position with some scrap pieces of balsa which can be broken away easily when the time comes to remove the battery.

There was still plenty of room left between the receiver and battery for the throttle servo to be taped in place. The elevator servo was mounted in its familiar position behind F-4. We used three Futaba S133 micro servos in this prototype. The weight savings of three micro servos over standard servos is nearly 3 ounces. That's a lot for a model of this size!

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"PATRIOT" VERSION


The Patriot Wonder is a great way to fly the colors! The elegantly curved ailerons and elevator, as well as the nicely rounded wingtips and fin tips give the Patriot a style all of it's own.
At 26 ounces, this was our lightest Wonder prototype. It was achieved by using a very lightweight engine, a two ounce fuel tank, a very light radio system, and only two channels.

By going without a throttle, you save the weight of a servo and the linkage to the engine. The downside of this is that you have to fly wide open all the time, and you can't control when and where the engine quits. The upside is the tremendous glide! All of the Wonders glide well, but at this weight it's almost a floater.

Covering the "Patriot"

This is by far the most difficult Wonder version to cover. If you like how it looks however, it's definately worth the effort. You will need the following materials to duplicate the Patriot color scheme:
  • White Supercoat Covering- Entire airframe except blue field on the wing.
  • Medium Blue Supercoat Covering- Blue field on the wing, top and bottom.
  • Black Supercoat Covering- Front canopy piece.
  • Medium Blue SuperTrim- Blue fields on fins.
  • Waco Red SuperTrim- Red stripes on wing, stabilizer and fins.Wing and fin leading edges.
  • 1/4" Medium Blue and Red SuperStripe- Stripes on fuselage.
  • Decal Sheet- SIGDKM266D
The blue and white covering pieces for the wing must be joined before you actually iron them onto the structure. Cut them out carefully, then overlap the blue onto the white about 1/4" over a glass plate. Iron just the seam with the edge of your iron, which should be set at a fairly low temperature. Lift the joined pieces from the glass and iron it onto the wing like it was one piece of covering material. The rest of the model is covered with white supercoat.

Now for the fun part! Cut 1-5/8" wide stripes of red trim material and adhere them over the white as shown in the photo. The center red stripe on the wing will have to be cut to leave room for the black "Wonder" decal. It would probably be best to do this before you apply it to the model. Sig SuperTrim Self-Adhesive Trim Sheets come with complete instructions on how to apply it using the wet method (soapy water). You will also need to cut some blue and red trim pieces for each of the fins. Use the pattern on the plans to cut the fin trim pieces.

Radio Installation



All of the radio gear in the Patriot Wonder is installed as far forward as possible to help with balance. The servo that you see in the fuselage (S133 micro) is for the elevator- there is no throttle. The 250 maH battery is under the fuel tank.

Engine Installation

The Cox Tee Dee .09 shown installed on the Patriot is the smallest engine we recommend for the Wonder. That doesn't mean it's a slouch. At this light weight, the performance difference between the Patriot and the Standard Wonder (with a .19) is not as great as you might think. One caution- without a muffler the .09 is pretty loud, so stay away from noise-sensitive flying sites.
Notice that for balance reasons the engine is placed well forward on the mounts. A small length of fuel tubing has been forced over the needle valve to prevent air leaks around the threads.

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FLYING

The Wonder was designed for experienced R/C pilots who can keep upwith fast, highly aerobatic models. If you have any doubts about your ability, by all means play it safe by seeking out a more experienced pilot for the first round of test flights. You'll also need to seek out a nice, soft, grassy field for landing. Your local football field isn't nearly big enough. This is a small plane, but it eats up chunks of sky in a big hurry. Contact your local club or ask your hobby dealer for the names of good fliers in your area and a suitable location for flying.

We recommend that you find a helper to hand launch the Wonder for the first few flights. This way, you can be ready on the transmitter for immediate corrections, if necessary. After getting a feel for the plane, you can launch it yourself while holding the transmitter in your free hand. Get in the habit of checking your controls before starting the engine and again just before launch. Set the engine on the rich side because it will most likely lean out in flight. Go to full throttle, check that your transmitter antenna is fully extended, and give your helper a nod of the head when you're ready to fly. Hand launching the Wonder is easy, thanks to the shoulder wing and light wing loading. Take a few quick steps and toss the model smoothly with the nose up slightly. The engine and wing should do the rest! Avoid throwing the model sharply - a real hard throw may cause the engine to sag or quit at the worst possible moment. Once the model has been released, allow it to level out and gain some airspeed before pulling into a gentle climb.

Grap a quick breath, then bank your Wonder into a gentle turn before it gets too small to see (which can happen fast!). At altitude, make a few passes, trimming as necessary for level flight. Now it's time to try some loops and rolls. The Wonder reacts instantly to any control input, so go gentle on the sticks. If you find yourself struggling to keep up with the airplane, maybe it's time to throttle back and explore its mild-mannered slow-speed characteristics!

One of the Wonder's unique flying traits is something we call "Wonder-Bob". Gain some altitude, bring the engine to idle, then slowly feed in "up" elevator until you have the stick all the way back and hold it. Even at this low airspeed, you should have enough aileron control to keep the wing level. If you've done it right, the Wonder will begin to rapidly bob its nose up and down. What you're seeing is the airplane go through a mild stall, drop its nose a few degrees, pick up a tiny bit of airspeed, stall again, and repeat the process, all in a fraction of a second! This is not a violent maneuver, but it's fun to watch and you can fly out of it at any time by releasing the up elevator.

It's nice to have your engine set up so that you can kill it intentionally by bringing the throttle stick and trim lever all the way down. Since the Wonder must be glided in dead-stick to land. It's always better to shut the engine off when you want to, rather than waiting for it to run out of gas at some random time during the flight.

The Wonder glides beutifully, but it's no sailpane! Try to keep your control inputs smooth during the glide. Rapid maneuvering can bleed off precious airspeed, drastically reducing the gliding range. Shut the engine off with plenty of altitude so you can get a feel for the glide before bringing it in for the final appraoch. Hold the model off as long as possible before letting it settle into the grass. Like any design, the actual landing speed of the Wonder will vary as a funtion of your model's final weight and the amount of headwind.

Go ahead and take another breath! Be sure to wipe off the oily exhaust on the fuselage before attempting another hand launch. Also, check your propeller for damage after every landing.

The Wonder was designed for fun and we sincerely hope that it gets your adrenaline flowing flight after flight. If you have any questions, comments, or problems with this kit or any other Sig product, please call us.

SIG MODELER'S HOTLINE
641-623-0215
Weekdays, 7:00am - 4:30pm Central

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WARNING - DANGER Important! Read these Warnings:
A model airplane motor gets very hot and can cause serious burns. Do not touch the motor during or after operation. Keep clear of the propeller, it can cut off a finger or put out an eye. Make sure the propeller is securely fastened in place and is not cracked. Model airplane fuel is flammable and poisonous. Take the same precautions while transporting and using it that you would with a can of gasoline or a bottle of poison.
Remember that it is possible to lose control of a model airplane. Do not fly in locations where the model may hit people or damage property if loss of control occurs. Check your model and equipment regularly to insure it is in safe operating condition.




© Copyright SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.
SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

LIMIT OF LIABILITY:
In use of our products, Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.