RISER 100 RC62 WING CONSTRUCTION

Left Inboard Panel

28.

  1. Begin by pinning in place the 5/16"x1-1/4"x26" notched balsa trailing edge over the plans.
    NOTE: Make sure that you identify the correct trailing edge for each of the four wing panels, the notch spacing is different for each.
  2. Pin in place the 3/16"x3/8"x25" bottom spruce spar, making sure you leave a small amount of excess on each end of the wing panel.
    NOTE: Use two W-2 ribs to position the spar the proper distance from the trailing edge.
  3. Cut pieces of 1/16"x3" balsa, from the 36" long pieces provided, for the bottom center section sheeting that goes between the rear of the spruce spar and the trailing edge. Glue and pin in place.

29.

Glue and pin all ribs in place except for the two ribs at the ends of the panel (W1A at the dihedral joint and the last W2 rib at the polyhedral joint).

30.

Carefully glue the die-cut lite-ply rib W1A in place, using the dihedral guage to position the rib at the proper angle.

NOTE: The dihedral and polyhedral guages called for in these instructions are provided on the 1/16" die-cut plywood sheet.




31.

Glue and pin in place balsa rib W2 at the polyhedral joint, using the polyhedral guage to position the rib at the proper angle.

32.

Glue and pin in place the top 3/16"x3/8"x26" spruce spar, again leaving a small amount of excess on each end of the wing panel. Recheck the end ribs W1A and W-2 with the dihedral and polyhedral guages to insure that the ribs haven't moved.

33.

Glue in place the 1/4" dia. x26" birch dowel leading edge and the two top 1/8"x3/16"x26" spruce turbulators. When dry, remove the wing from the board and add the bottom turbulator spar.




34.

Cut off the leading edge, trailing edge, spruce spars and turbulators with a razor saw so they are flush with end ribs.

Set this left wing panel aside for now and repeat steps 28 through 34 to build the right inboard wing panel, so that you will have one left wing panel and one right wing panel.


ABOUT TRAILING EDGE RIB NOTCHES
The rib notches may vary slightly in position on the plan because, as noted, the plan paper is subject to shrinking or stretching with humidity changes. Enlarge sny notches that ern't deep enough or wide enough with a razor blade and align the rib so that it is parallel to the plan.

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Wing Center Section

35.

  1. Install a piece of 9/32" o.d. x4" brass tubing into the holes in the W1A and W1B ribs. Do the same for both inboard wing panels.
    NOTE: Do not glue the brass tubes to the ribs at this time.
    Next, slide the 1/4" music wire joiner inside the brass tubes, joining the two inboard wing panels together.
  2. With the center joint firmly down against the workbench, block up each end of the wing panels 1-1/2". Lightly tack glue the 9/32" brass tubing to ribs W1A and W1B and allow the glue to dry. Extreme care must be taken to insure that no glue is allowed to contact the 1/4" music wire!

36.

Cut out the balsa fill-in pieces from the 3/8"x3"x4" printed balsa sheet and epoxy glue them in place. Also add a small piece of scrap spruce, from the leftover wing spar material, at the outboard end of both brass tubes to act as a stop for the 1/4" music wire joiner.

37.

Trim to fit and glue in place the 1/16"x1"x4" balsa shear webs at the locations shown on the plans.





Optional Spoiler Installation

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have elected not to install the optional spoilers on your Riser 100, skip the following steps 38 through 43 and go directly to step 44 to finish the center section.

38.

Two pieces of 1/4"x1"x12" balsa trailing edge stock is provided for making the spoilers. Cut each to length as shown on the plans.




39.

Notch the two center W-2 ribs of the spoiler bay to allow the spoiler to fit flush with the top of the wing. Refer to the drawing "Cross-Section at Spoiler" on plate 2 of the plans for proper cut-out location and size.

40.

Cut pieces of 1/16"x1/2" balsa sheeting to size and glue in place between the ribs as shown on the plans.
NOTE: Leave a 1/32" gap all the way around the spoiler.

41.

Turn the wing panel over and glue pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa against the 1/16"x1/2" sheeting just installed in the previous step. These will reinforce the 1/16" sheeting so that it will not bow or warp when the covering is applied later. Make sure you cut the 1/8" sq. pieces to exact length to fit securely between the wing ribs.

42.

Cut a piece 1/4"x 5/16" balsa to fit between the two W-2 ribs that you previously notched for the spoilers. Glue this is place where shown on the plan. This balsa piece will serve as an end support for the plastic tubing called for on the plan. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the 1/4" x 5/16" balsa to allow the plastic tubing to pass through it.

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43.

Also, drill 1/8" holes through the W1B and W-2 ribs shown on the plan to allow the plastic tubing to pass through them. In addition, cut a small hole in the bottom center sheeting, just behind the spruce spar, where the plastic tube should exit the wing. Carefully slide the plastic tubing in place, using a heat gun where necessary to soften the plastic tubing just enough to allow it to be bent into shape. Glue the tubing securely to the ribs and to the bottom sheeting.










44.

Cut and glue in place pieces of 1/16"x3" balsa sheet to fit between the back of the spruce spar and the trailing edge on top of the center section.



45.

Cut and glue in place pieces of 1/16" balsa sheeting to fit between the front of the spruce spar and the turbulators, and between the turbulators and the leading edge on both the top and the bottom pf the center section.

NOTE: If you want to use the "Optional Bolt-On Wing Attachment" method described in the next step, do not glue the foremost top and bottom pieces of 1/16" sheeting that contact the leading edge in place at this time.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have elected not to install the optional bolt-on wing attachment method and wish to use the standard rubber band attachment, skip the following steps 46 through 54, and go directly to the section on "Wing Construction: Left Outer Wing Panel".

If you are new to the sport of R/C modeling, it is recommended that you use rubber bands rather than the bolt-on wing attachment. The rubber bands will allow the wing to pop off in a crash and not cause as much damage to the wing or fuselage.


Optional Bolt-On Wing Attachment

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46.

Cut out the rib notch pattern. Tape it in place on Rib W1A, and then notch out the rib as per pattern.

47.

With a sanding block, bevel one end of each 3/8"x1-5/16"x2-7/16" balsa wing block to match the angle of the W1A rib. Epoxy glue the blocks in place between the ribs W1A and W1B of each wing panel. Use a T-square to make sure the blocks are 90 deg. to the W1A rib and against the back side of the leading edge.

48.

Trim and sand the balsa wing blocks down to match the W1B rib with a straight-edged razor blade or a modeling knife. They should be perfectly flush with the bottom of the rib.




49.

Epoxy the 1/2"x5/8"x1-1/2" basswood wing bolt blocks in place as shown in the "Optional Bolt-On Wing" drawings on plan plate 2. With a sanding block, bevel the tops of the basswood blocks to match the wing dihedral. You can also round the front inside corner of the blocks a little if desired.

50.

Epoxy the 1/4"x1-1/4"x1-7/8" plywood wing bolt block to the back of former F3 as shown on the plan. Reinforce with a piece of 1/4" balsa triangular stock.


51.

Place the wing on the completed fuselage and properly align it. Make sure each wing tip is the same distance from the rear end of the fuselage. Tape the wing in place and carefully drill through the wing and plywood blocks at the same time with a 5/32" drill. On the two rear holes, remember to keep the drill perpendicular to the top of the wing so the heads of the bolts will seat flush against the wing.

52.

Tap the hardwood blocks with a 10-32 tap. Take the wing off and redrill the holes in the wing to 3/16" dia. to allow the nylon bolts to pass through.

BUILDER'S TIP
Strengthen the threads and the wing bolt holes with a few drops of thin CA glue. When dry, clean the excess glue from the threads with a 10-32 tap.

53.

Cut and glue in place pieces of 1/16" balsa sheeting to fit between the bottom spruce spar and the bottom turbulator, and between the turbulator and the leading edge. When dry, cut away just enough sheeting to allow the balsa wing block to sit flush on the plywood wing bolt block on the fuselage.

54.

Finally, cut and glue in place a piece of 1/16" balsa sheeting to fill in between the leading edge and the front turbulator on the top of the center section. When dry, make a 1/2" dia. hole in the sheet for access to the nylon wing bolts.









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Outer Left Panel

55.

  1. Pin in place the 5/16"x1-1/4" notched balsa trailing edge over the plans. Make sure that you have the correct trailing edge for each panel.
  2. Pin in place the 3/16"x3/8"x24" spruce spar, making sure you leave a small amount of excess on each end of the wing panel.

56.

Glue and pin ribs W-3, W-4, W-5, W-6, W-7, and W-8 in place on the spar and to the trailing edge. Do not glue in the W-2 rib at the polyhedral joint yet.

57.

Using the 1/16" die-cut plywood polyhedral guage provided, pin the W-2 rib in place at the polyhedral joint and glue it securely.




58.

Glue and pin in place the top 3/16"x3/8"x24" spruce spar, again leaving a small amount of excess on each end of the wing panel. Recheck rib W-2 with the polyhedral guage to insure that it hasn't moved.

59.

Glue and pin in place the 1/4" birch dowel leading edge and the 1/8"x3/16"x24" turbulators. Remove the wing panel from the building board and add the bottom turbulator.

60.

Cut off excess leading edge, spruce spars, and turbulators with a razor saw so that they are flush with the end ribs W-2 and W-8.

61.

Cut one of the wing tip patterns from plan plate 1 and trace the wing tip outline onto one of the 1"x1-1/2"x8" balsa wing tip blocks provided.




62.

Carve the outside radius of the wing tip block first.



63.

Place the wing tip block against the tip rib W-8. Trace around it as shown in the picture and then carve down to that line.

64.

Glue and pin the wing tip block permanently to the tip of rib W-8.

65.

Carve and sand the wing tip block to its final shape.

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66. Pin down the inboard panel over the plan. Position the outboard panel on the plan against the inboard panel and raise the wing tip 3-3/4" as shown. If the joint between the two panels does not match perfectly, sand one or both of the ribs until it does. Glue the panels together with epoxy glue. Have a wet joint to insure that the glue will fill any gaps in the seam. After the epoxy has set up, take up the wing panels and peel off any excess glue that has squeezed out.




67.

Using a razor saw, cut a 3/32" slot in the two W-2 ribs that are joined at the polyhedral joint. Cut the slot right behind the spruce spars to install the die-cut 3/32" plywood polyhedral brace (DB). Epoxy the brace in place.


68.


Glue and pin in place 1/16"x1/4" balsa strips to the top and bottom of the polyhedral joint as shown on the plans. These strips will serve as a place to attach your covering later. You will probably find that it is difficult to bend and hold the small strips that go between the front turbulators in place while gluing. If so, don't worry about bending them into exact position. They are thick enough that they can be glued straight, sticking out past the ribs, and then trimmed down flush with the ribs as shown here.




69.

Regardless of whether you have elected to use the optional bolt-on wing attachment or the standard rubber band wing mounting, glue the die-cut 1/16" plywood trailing edge reinforcement (TR) piece in place on top of the trailing edge at this time.

70.

Lightly block sand the entire wing half with 220 sandpaper to remove any high spots or glue drops. This wing half is now ready for covering!

Rear Wing Alignment Pin

71.

Carefully drill one 1/8" hole in each of the W1A ribs. The exact locations are pre-marked by small dimples in these plywood ribs.


72.

Slide the 1/8" dia. x4" hardwood dowel into the hole in the left W1A rib. Push it into the wing panel until it contacts the W1B rib. Next assemble both wing panels to align the dowel pin. Spread the wing panels apart just enough to allow you to glue the dowel pin in place with thin CA glue.

NOTE: Be very careful to glue the dowel pin into the left wing panel only!

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73. Disassemble the wing panels and cut off the dowel pin so that only 3/4" sticks out of the left wing panel W1A rib. Round the end of the dowel pin with sandpaper.

STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR

74.

Use a modeling knife or a jig saw to cut all of the tail surface parts (S-1, S-2, S-3, FG, RG-1, and the Dorsal Fin) out of the 1/4" printed balsa sheet. Be sure to cut just outside of the line.















75.

Sand stab parts S-1, S-2, and S-3 down to the line with a sanding block.

76.

Pin S-1, S-2, and S-3 in place over the stabilizer plan.

77.

Cut to length the 1/4"x5/16" balsa leading and trailing edge pieces. Glue and pin in place over the plans.

78.

Cut pieces of 1/8"x1/4" balsa for the stab cross braces.

79.

Glue and pin the 1/8"x1/4" balsa cross braces in place over the plans.

80.

Block sand both sides of the stabilizer to smooth out any rough areas. Be sure to sand the printing off the wood.

81.

Using a sanding block, sand a curve into the ends of the leading edge sticks to blend into the shape of the stab tips. Then sand the corners of both the leading edges and the tips round. Don't round the corners of the trailing edge of the stab.

82.

Two 12" long pieces of 1/4"x2" balsa tapered stock are provided for making elevators. Cut one of the elevator patterns from the plan and trace the outline onto both pieces of tapered stock. Cut the elevators to shape.

83.

Join the elevators together by gluing them to the 1/4" dia.x5" long birch dowel elevator joiner. Pin straight and flat on the building board until dry. Block sand the elevators flat and smooth taking care that the 1/4" leading edge thickness is maintained.
The stabilizer and elevators are now ready to cover.

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FIN AND RUDDER

84.

Cut the rudder pattern from plan Plate 2 and tape it in place right behind the fin plan on Plate 1.



85.

Glue and pin all pieces of 1/4"x5/16" balsa for the fin and rudder in place over the plans.

86.

Glue and pin the balsa dorsal fin and gussets FG, RG-1 and RG-2 in place.

87.

Cut pieces of 1/8"x1/4" balsa for the cross bracing and glue in place as shown on the plans.

88.

Block sand both sides of the fin and rudder to remove any rough areas. Be sure to sand the print off the wood.

89.

Round off all outside edges of the fin and rudder with a sanding block. Be sure to do the leading edge of the rudder so it can hinge properly.

The fin and rudder are now ready to cover.