The RISER 100 is a standard class sailplane designed for sport and competition glider pilots alike. It's everything a "glider guider" could want in an all around sailplane - ease of building, large size, and great "hang time"! With a 100 inch wingspan and 1000 sq. in. of wing area, the RISER 100 is one of the best floaters around. A modified Eppler-205 airfoil lets the RISER 100 maximize any available lift, while still allowing excellent penetration on windy days. It's outstanding flight performance puts it right at home riding the thermals on a lazy summer afternoon, or going all out in competition against the big guys on contest day.

First-time glider builders will appreciate the straight forward, speedy construction of the RISER 100. The fuselage is built almost entirely of SIG LITE-PLY using our popular "Tee Lock" construction, which practically assures the builder of a straight, strong model. A carefully thought out building sequence takes the builder right from the open box to the flying field. Complete instructions and materials are also included for incorporating optional spoilers in the wing of the RISER 100. Spoilers are essential for making consistant spot landings and for other multitask soaring events. You will also need to decide whether you want to use the standard rubber band wing mounting system shown on the main side and top view fuse plan, or if you want to convert to the optional bolt-on wing attachment as shown on plate 2 of the plans. Complete instructions and materials are furnished in this kit for either version.

The versatile RISER 100 can even make a good R/C trainer! Many model clubs around the country like to train student pilots on a sailplane because of their gentle and slow speed flying characteristics. The slow speed allows the beginner ample time to develop the skills that are necessary for flying radio controlled models. If you have never flown an R/C model before, we strongly recommend that you obtain the assistance of a skilled R/C flier before attempting to fly your RISER 100 by yourself.

Radio Equipment Requirements

The RISER 100 requires only elevator and rudder control, so any radio with two or more channels may be used as long as it is on an aircraft approved frequency.
NOTE: If spoilers are to be used, a radio with at least three channels is required.


Notes Before Beginning Construction

Any references to right or left refers to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit. References to inboard means toward the fuselage, while references to outboard means away from the fuselage.

To build good flying models, you need a good straight building board. Crooked models don't fly well! The building board can be a table, a workbench, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, or whatever - as long as it is perfectly flat and untwisted. Cover the top surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wall board or foam board, into which pins can be easily pushed. Don't hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to hold drying parts in correct position.

When pinning and gluing parts directly over the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper or plastic kitchen wrap to prevent gluing the parts to the plans.

Don't use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these ink marks will show through the model's final finish. Use a pencil instead.

Identifying Kit Parts

Leave all die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Then remove the pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet - use a modeling knife to cut it free.

A jig saw works best for cutting out the printed balsa parts. If a jig saw is not available, a sharp modelling knofe and a straightedge can be used. Cut just outside the printed lines, leaving all of the line on the part. Whe fitting the piece into the dtructure, use a sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit.

Die-cut plywood parts can be identified using the "KEY TO PLYWOOD PARTS". All of the other parts can be identified by the "COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST". Sort the different sizes of sticks and sheets into individual piles to avoid confusion during building. Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any full length strips into short pieces.
NOTE: Save any scrap balsa and plywood until the model is completely done. Some of it may be called for during construction of the model.

Die-Cut Balsa Sheets
43/32"x3"x18" W-2 Wing Ribs 23/32"x3"x18" W-5, W-6, W-7, W-8 Wing Ribs 13/32"x3"x18" W-3, W-4 Wing Ribs
Silkscreened Balsa
11/4"x3"x9" Stab, Fin and Rudder parts 13/8"x3"x4" Wing Joiner Fill-in
Sheet Balsa
11/16"x3"x36" Wing Center Sheeting 13/8"x2-1/2"x15" Top Hatch Sheeting
Stick Balsa
11/4" triangle x3" Wing Mount Reinforcements 11/8"x1/8"x24" Spoiler Sheeting Reinforcement 41/16"x1/4"x36" Fuselage Reinforcement and Polyhedral Sheeting 21/16"x1/2"x36" Fuselage Reinforcement and Spoiler Sheeting
41/4"x5/16"x36" Stabilizer, Fin, and Rudder Frames 21/8"x1/4"x36" Stabilizer, Fin and Rudder Crossbracing
Special Shaped Balsa
21/4"x2"x12" Tapered Stock for Elevators 21/4"x1"x12" Trailing Edge Stock for Spoilers 25/16"x1-1/4"x24" Outboard Panel Trailing Edge 25/16"x1-1/4"x26" Inboard Panel Trailing Edge
201/16"x1"x4" Wing Shear Ribs
Block Balsa
21"x1-1/2"x 8" Wing Tip 12"x2-1/4"x3" Nose Block 23/8"x1-5/16"x2-7/16" Wing Hold Down Blocks
21/4"x24" Outboard Panel Leading Edge Dowel 21/4"x26" Inboard Panel Leading Edge Dowel 11/4"x5" Elevator Joiner Dowel 13/16"x8" Wing Hold Down Dowel
11/8"x4" Alignment Pin Dowel 43/16"x3/8"x24" Outer Panel Spruce Spars 43/16"x3/8"x26" Inner Panel Spruce Spars 61/8"x3/16"x24" Outer Panel Spruce Turbulators
61/8"x3/16"x26" Inner Panel Spruce Turbulators 11/4"x1-1/4"x1-7/8" Plywood Wing Bolt Block 21/2"x5/8"x1-1/2" Basswood Wing Bolt Blocks


Die-Cut Poplar Plywood (Lite-Ply)
11/8"x6"x48" Fuselage Sides 11/8"x6"x20" Fuselage Top and Formers 11/8"x3"x48" Fuselage Bottom 11/8"x6"x12" W1A and W1B Wing Ribs
Die-Cut Birch Plywood
13/32"x4"x6" Servo Rails and Polyhedral Braces 11/16"x4"x6" Rib Guages and Fuselarge Doublers
29/32" o.d. Brass Tube Wing Joiners 11/4"x8" Music Wire Wing Joiner 2Medium Nylon Control Horns 4#2 x 1/2" Sheet Metal Screws
24-40 Blind Nuts 22-56 Nylon R/C Links 42-56 x 10" Threaded Rods 14-40 x 8" Threaded Rod
14-40 Hex Nut 1#3 Flat Washer 14-40 x 1" Nylon Bolt 248" Nylon Pushrod Tubing Assemblies
2.130" o.d. x 19" Nylon Tubing 16' pkg. Dracon Line 7Easy Hinges 33/64" o.d. Spoiler Actuating and Servo Hook Up Wires
2Lead Weights 410-32 x 1" Nylon Bolts
Miscellaneous Parts
1.030"x12" ABS Plastic Skid 11/8"x1/2"x14" Servo Mounting Tape 1Decal 1Instruction Book
138"x50" Plan Plate 1 125"x38" Plan Plate 2

You can't get along without a good sanding block

An assortment of different size sanding blocks are indispensable tools for model construction. A good general purpose block can be made by wrapping a 9"x11" sheet of sandpaper around a piece of hardwood or plywood. Use three screws along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper. Put 80-grit paper on the block during general construction. Switch to 220-grit paper for final finish sanding just before covering.

Another handy block can be made by gluing sandpaper onto a 24" or 36" long piece of aluminum channel stock. Most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum in various sizes and shapes. This long block is very useful for sanding leading and trailing edges accurately.


Finally, glue sandpaper onto different sizes of scrap plywood sticks and round hardwood dowels. These are handy for working in tight places and for careful shaping where a big block is too hard to control.


There are so many different glues available today for model construction that it can be confusing even for the experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most glues can be classified as one of four basic types:
  1. Easy-to-use water-based glues such as SIG-BOND (yellow) and SIG SUPER-WELD (white).
  2. Super strong (but heavier) two-part epoxy glues such as SIG KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure).
  3. Traditional solvent-based model cements such as SIG-MENT.
  4. Fast cyanoacrylate adhesives (abbreviated in these instructions as "C/A") such as SIG CA, Hot Stuff, Jet, etc ...
Each of these types has different characteristics and advantages. Often times, the choice of which type to use is strictly a matter of personal preference based on your prior experience with a previous model. However, because of the vast use of lite-ply and hardwoods in the construction of the RISER 100, we have found that CA glues seem to work the best for the general construction. In fact, the construction sequence of the RISER 100 fuselage is designed with the use of CA glue in mind. Other glues could be used, but CA is recommended as our first choice because of its ability to penetrate an already assembled joint. In other words, the fuse parts can be first assembled dry without glue, the alignment checked and adjusted, and then glue can be applied to the joints. Read through the fuselage construction and you will better understand what we mean. You shoul also have on hand some epoxy glue, either slow dry or 5-minute, for areas subject to unusual strain or involving metal pieces. Some of the steps in these instructions call out the types of glue to use for that particular assembly. In other areas you can use your own judgement as to which type is best suited to the purpose and your building schedule.

CAUTION: Some people have experienced allergic reactions when exposed to epoxy or cyanoacrylate glues. This is very rare. However, it is extremely important that such glues, and also paints, thinners and solvents, be used with adequate ventilation to carry fumes away.

About Printed Wood Parts

Some years ago we had kits featuring die-cut parts in both thick and thin balsa sizes. If the thick parts were cut from dry wood, the wood often crushed or crinkled on the edges, even when using a brand new die. If the thick parts were cut from wet wood there was an improvement- though many of them still crushed - but the swelled wood parts changed shape after drying, making them inaccurate. So we asked modelers if they would rather have the parts printed on the wood instead. They could be cut out in a few minutes with a saw or modelling knife and thus avoid any "die-crunching". Most voted in favour of this idea.

To answer the question we are sometimes asked - no, we do not print parts on wood to save money. It is actually more expensive to print the parts using a silk screen press than it is to run an equivalent sheet through our automatic feed die cutting machine. If we hand-sawed the parts it would be even more expensive and the labor cost would have to be added to the kit price. We believe that most modelers would rather cut their own out and save the cost. Since there are not many thick parts in our average kit, it really doesn't consume a lot of the total building time for the builder to do the parts.


Carefully remove all die-cut Lite-Ply fuselage sides, top, bottom and formers from their sheets. Remove any rough edges on these parts with a small sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper.


Drill two holes with a 3/16" drill bit where indicated in plywood formers F3 and F4 for the outer pushrod tubing. There are two small dimples in these formers to mark the correct spot for the holes.

NOTE: If the optional bolt-on wing attachment method is to be used, do not drill these holes in former F4. The pushrods will have to pass through the open middle of that former to avoid interfering with the basswood wing bolt blocks. See Top View of the "Optional Bolt-On Wing" drawings on plan plate 2.


2. Tape or rubber band the two fuselage sides together at the rear.


Working from the rear forward, slip all of the fuselage formers into place. Put a rubber band around the fuselage at each former location to hold it tightly together.


Slide the die-cut lite-ply fuselage top rearward, under the rubber bands, until it snaps into it's proper location between the fuse sides.


Slide the die-cut lite-ply fuselage bottom rearward, under the rubber bands, until it snaps into its proper location between the fuse sides.


Place the fuselage over the top view of the plans to check the alignment. Correct if necessary by twisting gently before proceeding.


Carefully glue all the parts permanently in place, preferably working from the inside of the fuselage, using a medium viscosity CA glue.
NOTE: Be sure to glue both sides of the formers to the top, bottom, and sides of the fuselage. Do not remove the rubber bands until all the glue joints have completely dried.


Cut and glue in place the 1/16"x1/4" balsa fuselage stiffeners where shown on the plan in the area of the hatch.


Cut and glue in place the 1/16"x1/2" balsa wing saddle stiffener as shown on the plans. After the glue has dried, trim the balsa to match the wing saddle.


Drill 3/16" dia. holes through the lite-ply fuselage sides for the 3/16" birch dowels required for the standard rubber band style wing mounting. It is best not to glue the dowels in place until after the model is covered.
NOTE: If you are planning to use the optional bolt-on wing attachement, ignor this step.


  1. A 3/8"x2"x15" balsa sheet is provided for making the top hatch. Cut this sheet into a 3" long piece and 12" long piece. Permanently glue the 3" long section in place on top of the fuselage sides, all the way to the front, flush with fuselage former F1.
  2. Lightly tack glue the remaining 12" balsa top hatch sheet in place on top of the fuselage sides, right behind the 3" piece. Notice that it extends back past former F3.


12. Glue and pin in place the 2"x2-1/4"x3" balsa nose block. It should be flush with the bottom of the fuselage.


Roughly carve the nose block and top hatch sheet to shape as shown on the plans. A razor plane or a #26 X-Acto blade and handle are ideal for this step.


Sand the nose block and the top hatch to exact shape with a sanding block and remove the top hatch from the fuselage.


Carefully remove the 12" long portion of the top hatch from the fuse sides. Since it was only tack glued it should come off easily. Make a hatch tongue from a scrap piece of 1/16" plywood as shown on the plans. Permanently glue the tongue to the front of the hatch on the bottom side.


Cut a piece of scrap 1/8" lite-ply to fit between the fuse sides right in front of former F3. It serves as a hold-down plate for the rear end of the removeable 12" top hatch.


Holding the removable top hatch in place, drill a 1/8" hole through the hatch and through the center of the lite-ply hold-down plate. Install a 4-40 blind nut on the bottom side of the hold-down plate and bolt the top hatch in place with a 4-40 x 1" bolt.


That's as far as you can go on the top hatch for now. Once the wing is built, but before covering the model, you must carve out the bottom of the removable top hatch slightly at the rear where it fits down against the wing. The best procedure for doing this is to mount the wing on the fuse, then carefully carve and sand away the bottom of the hatch. Carefully remove just a little material at a time and keep trial fitting the hatch in place as you go.


In case you carved too much balsa from the bottom of the hatch and now have a gap, here is a simple method to fix it. Simply cover the wing at the dihedral joint with wax paper and apply a generous amount of Sig Epoxolite putty (or other thick model putty) to the bottom of the hatch and then bolt in place. After the putty has set up, remove the hatch and gently carve and sand off the excess putty.


Glue the 1/16" plywood fuselage doubler FD in place inside the bottom of the fuselage.


21. Drill a hole through the bottom of the fuselage and through the fuselage doubler FD for the towhook mounting. Measure the exact location for this hole carefully from the plan, as the towhook position is critical for achieving a good launch of the sailplane. Install a 4-40 blind nut in the hole on the inside of the fuselage.


The fuselage is now ready for final sanding. Sand off all "Tee-Lock" stubsa and round the edges of the fuselage with a sanding block. Start out with 150 grit sandpaper and switch to 220 grit sandpaper for the final sanding.

Servo And Pushrod Installation


Drill the elevator and rudder pushrod exit holes in the fuselage sides as shown on the plans. Use a 1/8" drill bit at first for a pilot hole and follow it up with a 3/16" drill bit.


Install the 3/16" o.d. outer nylon pushrod tubing for the rudder and elevator pushrods into the fuselage by passing them through the previously drilled holes.

NOTE: Make sure that the outer pushrods extend out past the former F-3 for 3/4".


Epoxy the outer pushrod tubing in place at the rear of the fuselage and at the formers F-3 and F-4.


Use a single-edge razor blade to trim the outer pushrod tubing flush with the outside of the fuselage sides.


Die-cut 3/32" plywood servo rails (SR-1, SR-2, and SR-3) have been provided. Trim the servo rails if necessary to fit your particular servos. Epoxy the rails in place in the fuselage between formers F-2 and F-3. Mount the servos to the rails in the manner recommended by the radio manufacturer.

The rest of the pushrod installation will be done later during "Final Assembly", after the tail surfaces are mounted to the fuselage.


Although it's not shown on the plans we recommend that you add scrap pieces of 1/4"x5/16"x1" balsa between the fuselage sides to increase the gluing area for the stabilizer.