Drill or cut out the 5/32" dowel holes in the fuselage sides. This will locate the holes after the plywood doublers have been glued in place.


  1. Cut pieces of 1/4" triangle stock, and
  2. 1/8"x3/16" balsa as indicated on the printed fuselage sides.
51. Glue and pin the 1/4" triangle stock pieces and 1/8"x3/16" pieces in place.


Using a paddle, spread a thin coat of epoxy glue on both die-cut 1/32" plywood doubler's FDF. Don't use a large amount of epoxy as this will add unnecessary weight.


Glue one doubler FDF onto the right fuselage side as indicated and the other to the left fuselage side. Repeat this same procedure for right and left doublers FDR.


Cut out the fuselage sides with a knife. Be sure to cut just outside of the lines.


Use a sanding block to sand the fuselage sides to final shape. Match the sides to each other.


The fuselage sides are now ready for joining.


Refer to the top view of the plans and draw a line for the bevel at the rear of the fuselage.


Using a single edge razor blade, cut the bevel at the rear of the fuselage.


Epoxy glue plywood formers F-2 and F-3 in place on one of the fuselage sides. Use a square to be sure the formers are perpendicular to the fuselage side.


60. Pin the side in position over the top view of the plan.


Epoxy glue the other fuselage side to F-2 and F-3 over the plans. Check with a square before the glue sets up.


Pull the fuselage sides together at the rear using square weights (pieces of scrap iron shown here) and glue together.


Epoxy glue both sides of F-1 and glue in place over the plans. Pin or use weights to hold the sides until the glue sets up.


The bottom of the fuselage may now be sheeted using cross-grain pieces of 3/32" sheet balsa. The top of the fuselage is sheeted later.


Use a sanding block to smooth the rough edges


Glue the 1/8" Lite-Ply towhook base in place as indicated on the plans.


Drill a hole for the towhook through the bottom of the fuselage and the towhook base. Do not glue the towhook in. It is best to do this after covering the model


It is best to have the tail parts complete at this time so that they may be used for pushrod alignment. Mark the location at the rear of the fuselage for the exit slot of the rudder pushrod. Cut out the exit slot. Trim around the slot so that the outer tubing fits tightly.


Insert the outer tubing through the slot and push the tubing up through the fuselage into the servo compartment.


70. Secure the servo, using the manufacturer's mount or mount on hardwood rails. See "Radio Installation" for more information on mounting servos.


Cut off 2-1/2" at the threaded end of one of the threaded rods. Put a "Z" bend (or a "L" bend if you are going to use a pushrod keeper) in the non-threaded area of the rod.


Clean the threaded area with a rag dipped in alcohol or thinner. This will remove any oil from the wire. Thread the wire into the inner tubing. Use epoxy or cyanoacrylate "super" glue to glue the threaded rod into the tubing.


Slide the inner pushrod tubing into the outer pushrod tubing. Install the Z-bend through the servo arm and hook it up to the servo. This will give an indication of where the outer tubing is to be fastened to F-3.


Remove the inner tubing and use a piece of scrap 1/32" plywood to make a mounting bracket for the outer tubing as shown. Epoxy glue this bracket in place


Epoxy glue the outer tubing in place at the rear of the fuselage. Wipe off any excess glue.


Use a single edge razor blade and trim the outer tubing flush with the outside of the fuselage side.


Fill in any holes around the pushrod with scrap balsa. Sand flush with a sanding block


Repeat the same procedure for the elevator pushrod. When complete the servo installation should look similar to that pictured.


Sheet the top of the fuselage with pieces of cross-grained 3/32" sheet balsa. Smooth the rough edges with a sanding block.


80. Mark a line 3" from the end on the fuselage top hatch sheet (1/4"x2-1/4"x8" balsa). This will indicate where to cut the hatch apart from the rest of the top.


Tack glue the top hatch sheet onto the fuselage. The front should be flush with F-1.


Use a single-edge razor blade to trim the top hatch sheet flush with the fuselage sides.


Smooth the rough edges with a sanding block.


Saw along the line previously marked to cut the hatch apart from the rest of the top.


Remove the hatch and top sheet from the fuselage. Permanently glue the top sheet in place.


Glue and pin the 1-1/2"x2"x2-1/2" balsa nose block to the fuselage. It should be flush with the bottom of the fuselage, and a slight jog at the top of the fuselage as shown in the picture.


Use the nose block side view drawing to trace the pattern on the side of the nose block.


Carve the nose block down to the line previously drawn. Note that part of the fuselage top sheet will also be carved.


Use the nose block top view drawing and trace it on the bottom of the nose block.


Carve the nose block down to this line.


Tack glue the hatch in place. Carve the edges of the nose block and fuselage to shape. Use the cross-section drawings (F-l, F-2, F-3, rear fuselage) to determine the exact contours. Don't shape the open top of the fuselage where the wing will sit.



Block sand all edges to smooth out any rough areas.


Remove the hatch and glue in a piece of scrap 1/8" Lite-ply for the hatch hold-down plate "HH" as indicated on the plans. Drill through hatch for the 2-56x1/2" hold-down screw.


Glue a piece of scrap 1/32" plywood (hatch tongue) to the front of the hatch on the bottom side as indicated on the plans.


Drill the dowel holes on through the plywood doublers for the 5/32" wing hold-down dowels. It is best not to glue in the dowels until after the model is covered. The fuselage may now be covered. Refer to the covering section.



Use a modeling knife or jig saw to cut the printed parts out of the 3/16" printed balsa sheet. Be sure to cut just outside of the lines.


Sand the pieces down to the line with a sanding block.


Pin 5-1, 5-2, and S-3-in place over the stabilizer plan.


Glue and pin the 3/16"x1/4" leading and trailing edge pieces in place over the plan.


Cut pieces of 1/8"x3/16" balsa for the cross brace pieces.


101. Glue and pin the 1/8"x3/16" cross braces in place over the plan.


Completed stabilizer ready for sanding.


Block sand the stabilizer to smooth any rough areas. Be sure to sand the print off of the wood.


With a sanding block, shape the tips as indicated on the plans. Round the leading edge and the tips.


Pin the elevators over the plans. Trial fit the 3/16" square x4" spruce joiner.


Glue the spruce joiner in place.


Block sand the elevator. Be sure to sand off the printed areas.


Round all edges of the elevator with a sanding block. Also round the edges of the spruce joiner.


Glue and pin R-4and all pieces of 3/16"x1/4" balsa in place over the plans for the rudder.


Glue and pin R-1. R-2, R-3, and all 1/8" x 3/16" cross pieces in place over the plans.


Glue the small fin onto the large fin.


112. Block sand all pieces.


Round all edges with a sanding block.


Cut a slot in the fuselage top for the fin tab.


Trial fit the fin tab into the slot. Do not glue the fin into place yet.



Cover the stabilizer and elevator using the procedures outlined in the "COVERING" section. Once they are covered, install the Easy Hinges as described below. Use four hinges located as shown on the plan.


Cover the fin and rudder as you did in the prior step, and install the hinges. Use two Easy Hinges for the rudder.


Use a sharp knife or razor blade to carefully remove the plastic film covering on the bottom of the stabilizer where it will be glued to the fuselage. This is important to insure wood-to-wood contact at the glue joint.


Position the wing on the fuselage. Use Kwik-Set (5-minute) epoxy to glue the stabilizer to the fuselage. As the glue dries, carefully check the alignment as shown in the diagrams.

Hinging The Control Surfaces with Sig Easy Hinges
Sig's famous EASYHINGES have been included with your Riser kit for hinging the rudder and the elevator. Even though they are obviously super thin, EASYHINGES are actually a three-part laminate. The tough, plastic inner core is sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material. The hinges have also been chemically treated to slow down the drying time of the thin CA (which is normally instant) to about five minutes. This extra time allows the CA to soak all the way down to the end of the hinge and into the wood surrounding it. Once the glue has dried, the hinge cannot be pulled from the control surface without tearing wood out with it.


120. Remove the covering material from the top of the stabilizer and fuselage where the fin makes contact. Epoxy glue the fin in place. Use a square to make sure that the fin is perpendicular to the stabilizer.
Developed from the start to take advantage of the popular cyanoacrylate adhesives, EASYHINGES are fast, strong, and lightweight. With these hinges, there is finally a solution to the dreaded, tedious job of hinging control surfaces. No more gouging and picking to make oversize slots in the wood. No more messy epoxies to bind up the hinge joint. Simply follow the instructions here (which may very well take longer to read than to do!) and you will probably never want to use another type of hinge again.
Hinging Instructions
  1. Use the plans to mark the hinge locations on the tail surfaces. Marks made with a felt-tip pen can later be wiped off the plastic covering.

  2. Next, using a #11 X-Acto blade (or similar) cut a slot approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinge. Continue cutting all of the slots in both pieces to be hinged.

  3. After all slots have been cut, insert an EASYHINGE halfway into each slot in one of the pieces to be hinged. Then carefully slide the matching model part onto the other half of the hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the part onto the hinges at an angle, one hinge at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all the hinges at once.

  4. At this point the surface to be hinged is attached but not glued. Align the two surfaces and adjust the gap between them as required. For best control response, the gap should generally be as small as possible but big enough to allow the control surface to move to the maximum deflection that you will require.

  5. Place three or four drops of any brand cyanoacrylate adhesive (thinnest variety) directly onto the EASY HINGE in the gap. You will notice that the glue is quickly wicked into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all of the hinges. Then turn the surfaces over and repeat the gluing process on the other side of each hinge.

  6. After the glue has cured, approximately five minutes, the joint can be flexed. You may notice a slight stiffness in the joint. This can be eliminated by flexing the surface to full deflection each direction a couple of dozen times. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinge as they are almost indestructible.
NOTE: The photos show the hinges being installed on a sample piece of bare wood. For your Riser, we recommend that the surfaces be covered before hinging. Simply cut the slots and proceed with the steps described below as if the covering wasn't even there!


Glue the two 5/32"x3" wing hold-down dowels into the holes you drilled earlier. The exposed ends of the dowels can be painted to match the covering, if you wish.


Use epoxy to glue the formed wire towhook and the hardwood towhook block in place on the fuselage.

NOTE: If you would prefer to use a commercially-available adjustable towhook, install it now on the plywood towhook base plate.


The RISER design is ideally suited to use a plastic iron-on covering material. Although other brands will work, we recommend Sig Supercoat Covering for its light weight, low cost, and ease of application. To cover the RISER, you will need at least two rolls of Supercoat. For that finishing touch, use Sig Super Trim self-adhesive trim sheets to add a bit of trim color.

If you choose another brand of covering material, be sure to read the manufacturer's directions that come with the material.


Follow their instructions closely when applying the material, as different brand coverings can have slightly different handling characteristics and application temperatures. However, the basic techniques for applying iron-on plastic coverings of any brand are similar, and the following hints and photos should be helpful.
NOTE: The structure shown is of a different model but the same procedures are used.


The structure that is to be covered must be clean, dry, and dustfree. Sand all surfaces smooth with fine sandpaper. Remember that the covering material cannot hide poor workmanship. Wipe the entire surface with a tack rag or a cloth dampened with alcohol to remove all excess dust.
NOTE: Cover the bottom of the wing first and then the top of the wing. This leaves the overlapping seam on the bottom.


Cut the covering material to the required size allowing approximately one inch excess around the edges. Remove the plastic backing and lay the adhesive side of the covering material against the structure. Have it as smooth as possible before beginning to iron.


Tack down at several places along the outside edge. Next seal the entire edge of the structure. Don't try to shrink the covering tight until later.
NOTE: Wipe surface of iron periodically to remove any colored adhesive that may ooze from the covering material.


  1. Trim off the excess with a razor blade or a modeling knife.
  2. Seal the loose edges down with the iron.
5. Repeat the process on the top of the wing.


Shrink the covering in the inner areas with the iron. Keep the iron moving, allowing the heat to shrink the covering at the same rate. To keep the covering from "ballooning-up", put small pin-holes in each rib bay on the bottom of the wing.


A heat gun could also be used to shrink the covering. Keep it moving - 4" to 6" above the surface. It will melt the covering if held too close. Don't hurry the process.


Seal down all over-lapping seams and edges.
NOTE: The wing instructions refer to built-up structures with open framework areas. When covering sheet surfaces better results may be obtained by starting at the center and working toward the outer edges. This allows the air to escape from under the covering as it is applied.


9. Cover the bottom of a fuselage first. When doing compound curves, as on the nose shown here, be sure to leave extra material around that area. Grip the covering and apply heat. As the covering becomes pliable pull the covering around the curve. Work slowly and cover small sections at a time.


Trim off excess and seal edges. Repeat this procedure on the sides. Allow about 1/8" to 1/4" overlap for a fuel-proof seam.


Cover the top and seal down all edges.


Remove covering from areas to be glued. There must be wood-to-wood contact in the glue joints. Strips of covering may be applied over seams to seal them.


The following information can be used as a guideline for mounting your radio in the RISER. The methods described below are fairly standardized and should work well with any system, although you should read and follow the manufacturer's instructions supplied with your radio.

Mounting Servos In The Fuselage

The rudder and elevator servos should be mounted side-by-side in the wing opening so that the output arms are lined up with the ends of the nylon pushrods. Screw the servos to hardwood mounting rails that are epoxied across the inside of the fuselage. We recommend that the hardwood mounting rails be made of 3/16"x3/8" spruce, pine, or basswood. Do not make the rails out of balsa! Glue scrap pieces of balsa to the fuselage sides around the ends of the mounting rails so that they can never come loose in flight. If you plan to use the optional spoilers, the third servo should be mounted forward of the flight control servos.

You can also use foam servo mounting tape and stick the servos to the fuselage sides. For the best bond to the fuselage, coat the balsa where the servo will be seated with a thin film of epoxy. Although this method is quick and easy, it is generally accepted that the servo rail method of servo mounting is more secure in the long run.


Elevator And Rudder Hookup

Attach a small nylon control horn to the rudder and another to the elevator using #2x1/2" sheet metal screws. Mount the rudder control horn to the left side of the rudder and the elevator control horn on the bottom of the right elevator half, as shown on the plans.

Slide an inner nylon pushrod into its outer sleeve and attach the Z-bend to the servo arm as you did in Step 73. Be certain to completely tighten the small servo screw that holds on the servo arm.

The inner nylon pushrod must be trimmed to length before it can be hooked up. With the servo arm and the control surface held in neutral, cut off the nylon tubing 1-1/4" from the control horn. To keep the exposed inner portion of the nylon pushrod from flexing, it must be supported by the smooth end of the threaded rod. Cut a 2-56 threaded rod to the required length and screw it into the nylon pushrod about five or six turns. Lock it in place with a couple of drops of thin CA.

Screw the clevises provided in the kit onto the threaded rods.
NOTE: Depending on our supply at the time of packing, your kit may contain nylon clevises instead of the metal clevises shown in the photo.

Repeat this procedure for the remaining pushrod.

Receiver And Battery Installation

Wrap the receiver and the battery pack separately in foam rubber (such as SIGRF240), held on with rubber bands or tape, to protect them from damage. Locate the battery pack as far forward in the nose as possible. Position the receiver right behind the battery. The weight of these components will help to balance the RISER.The foam rubber should be thick enough to hold the battery and receiver firmly in place so that they will not shift around in flight.

The receiver antenna can be run out of the bottom of the fuselage and taped at the aft end; or run out of the top hatch and connected to a straight pin on the fin using a small rubber band. The switch can be mounted directly on the fuselage side (locate it so that you won't accidentally touch it during launch). If you prefer, the switch can be mounted internally as shown in the photo. Use a short piece of music wire poked through the fuselage side to activate the internal switch. Lastly, make certain that the charging jack is easily accessable inside the fuselage.


Be certain to range check your radio equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions before attempting test flights. If there are any problems, send the radio in to be tuned or repaired. Various brands of servos can give different amounts of control surface travel. By moving your pushrod linkages into a different hole of the control horn and/or into a different hole of the servo arm, you can change the total amount of control surface travel you'll get when the transmitter stick is moved to the full throw position. Adjust your pushrod linkages to produce the amounts of movement listed below. Measurements are made at the trailing edge of the control surfaces at their widest point.

The control surface measurements listed should give you plenty of control during your first flights without being overly sensitive. Test flights may indicate a need for slightly more or less movement, depending on individual model performance and personal preference.


For test flying, the following are suggested:

ELEVATOR 3/8" UP and 3/8" DOWN
RUDDER 1-1/4" LEFT and 1-1/4" RIGHT

Before flying, you should also adjust all your pushrod linkages so the control surfaces are in neutral position when the transmitter sticks and trim levers are centered. After the first test flight, readjust the linkages if necessary so that the trim levers can be returned to neutral position. It may take several flights before exact trim is established on all the flight controls.


Airplanes Must Be Straight And Balanced (or straighten up and fly right!)

One of the secrets to a good flying model is to make sure the wing is straight and the model is properly balanced. Check to make sure there are no warps in the wing. If there are, twist the wing in the opposite direction of the warp and apply heat to both sides of the covering material, starting on the side opposite the warp. Hold until the covering cools, then recheck for straightness. Try again if necessary. It is helpful to have a friend assist you with this procedure.

The spanwise balance of the wing is an often overlooked but essential part of balancing a model. Place your assembled RISER wing on a flat table with both wingtips equal distance above the table. Let go and observe which wing panel falls to the table. Add very small amounts of weight to the opposite wing tip until it will balance on the dihedral joint at the center of the wing. Permanently install the weights in the wing tip.

To check the fore and aft balance of your model, mount the wing on the fuselage. The fuselage side view plan shows the location for balancing your Riser. For the first test flights, you should balance the Riser slightly forward (1/8") of the point shown on the plans. For everyday flying, you may want to adjust the balance point. A more rearward balance point or Center of Gravity (C.G.) will give the Riser a flatter glide but it will also make it more sensitive to control movements. A forward C.G. will make the controls less sensitive and the model more stable for better wind penetration with a very slight loss of thermal capability. Balance the Riser to suit your needs and style of flying. Move the battery pack and receiver fore or aft to locate the C.G. where you want. After flying your Riser, you may want to readjust the final balance to achieve the desired performance. Every model will fly a little different! Never change the C.G. position more than 1/8" between flights. Do not attempt to fly the model with the balance point too far back, which could make the model unstable and uncontrollable.

An alternative to the high start or winch is to use one of these easy-to-build Sig Power Pods. The pod's main advantage is that it requires much less room than the other launching devices. You can mount any reed valve or rotary-valve .049 - .051 engine (not included) for safe, dependable launches. The pod is held on by the wing rubber bands so it can be easily removed whenever you want. Order No. SIGSH660.

"A model or radio that is not prepared and working properly on the ground before takeoff will not improve in the air -
There is no point in attempting to fly until everything is 100% correct,"


First Test Flight

While it is possible that a R/C sailplane can be mastered by a beginner without any assistance, the odds of success are pretty slim. Don't be too proud to ask for advice and help from more experienced fliers. A little help at the right time from an instructor can get you out of trouble and possibly save your model from a bad crash.

Choose an area that is free of obstructions such as buildings and trees and pick a day when there is little or no wind. Fasten the wing to the fuselage with eight #64 rubberbands. Place six of the rubberbands on parallel to the ribs and crisscross the final two. If your flying site is occupied by other fliers, check with them to be sure that your frequency won't interfere with theirs, and vice-versa.

Turn your receiver and transmitter on and fully extend the antenna. Gently hand toss the sailplane into the wind with the nose pointed slightly down and the wings level. Start by running a couple steps with the model, then release it with a smooth spear throwing action. Aim for a spot on the ground about 50 yards out ahead of you.


If the nose of the sailplane pitches up, feed in some down elevator. If the nose pitches down, feed in some up elevator.


Keep your control movements smooth. If the sailplane veers left, feed in some right rudder. If it veers right, feed in some left rudder.


The main thing to remember when flying a sailplane is not to over control. If the model does get out of control, and you have sufficient altitude, a glider is so stable that you can usually just let go of the sticks momentarily and the model will right itself. Many models have crashed because a beginner continued to send the wrong input. On landing, when the sailplane is about two feet from the ground, make sure the wings are level and start slowly feeding in some up elevator to slow the model and establish a gentle descent. The model should settle onto the ground in a slightly nose high attitude.

Thermal Soaring

Thermal soaring is by far the most popular type of R/C soaring. It is not uncommon to see two or more sailplanes riding the same thermal, all of them circling for altitude and staying in the thermal. A thermal is a rising column of hot air - air that has been overheated by the sun radiating off dark areas of ground such as roads, plowed fields, buildings, etc. Thermals can be found year around and just about anytime of the day. However, the most active time for thermals is during the spring and summer months with mid-morning to mid-afternoon being the best time of day to find them. Thermals are easy to detect on days when the wind is light. Many times you can feel the temperature difference when the warm thermal air passes by you. Often a low fluffy cumulus cloud indicates the location of a thermal. Also watch for large birds (hawks, gulls, eagles, buzzards, etc.) circling and maintaining their altitude without flapping their wings. They are riding a thermal!

Thermals are normally small near the ground and tend to increase in diameter the higher up they go. To get into a thermal, we must first gain some altitude. There are two commonly used methods of launching a sailplane into the air.

  • HIGH-START: A high-start is made up of surgical tubing and nylon cord. Its purpose is to "sling-shot" the glider into the air like a large rubber band launched model. High-starts come in several different sizes to match the class of the sailplane being flown - a two meter class or standard class hi-start is recommended for the RISER. The standard class high-start usually consists of 100 feet of rubber surgical tubing and 350 feet of nylon cord (although some brands may differ slightly). The surgical tubing is fastened to a stake pounded into the ground. The other end of the tubing is then tied to the nylon cord, while the other end of the nylon cord has a small parachute attached to it. The high-start is layed out on the ground directly into the wind. The parachute end of the high start is attached to the sailplane's towhook. Start walking backwards with the model, stretching the high-start as you go. Go back until the high-start has been stretched to a maximum of 800 feet.
    With the sailplane pointed at the stake, raise the nose to approximately 30 degrees and level the wings. Firmly toss the sailplane into the air. Feed in a small amount of up elevator after the launch and the sailplane will begin to climb to the maximum height of the high start. If the sailplane veers to the left or right correct it with opposite rudder. DO NOT OVER CONTROL! If it constantly veers from side to side and is hard to control, you are probably holding too much up elevator. Back off a little to regain good directional control. As the sailplane reaches the top, the line should drop off by itself. If it doesn't, feed in a little down elevator to allow the sailplane to dive slightly and the line will fall off. Pull back on the elevator to level off so you can start trimming for the flattest glide.

  • WINCH: A winch is a battery operated device that uses an electric motor to drive a large spool that reels in the long towline. There is no rubber surgical tubing involved. As the line is reeled in, it pulls the sailplane up to altitude. The speed of the winch is normally controlled by the glider pilot using a foot pedal as he flies the model with his hands. Most competition oriented sailplane enthusiasts prefer a winch launch over a high-start simply because they can control the speed that the line is reeled in and thus better control the speed and pull on their model. A practiced winch operator can often get his sailplane to greater heights than with a high-start.


Now that the sailplane is at altitude, it is time to go thermal hunting. Start by trimming the RISER for a nice flat glide and head upwind flying a zig-zag pattern. Never cover the same ground twice while searching for thermals. Be looking for areas where you can see heat waves radiating up, or hawks circling, or swirling "dust devils" being picked up off the ground. Remember, smooth flying is the secret to long flights. Watch the sailplane closely as it is flying. If it suddenly seems to "rise up on a step", stops sinking and starts gaining altitude, you know you are in a thermal. Or if you see one wing or the other bump up, immediately turn towards the high wing to try to get into the thermal that caused the bump. Once you are in a thermal, feed in a small amount of rudder trim to set the sailplane up for a large glide circle of approximately 100 to 200 feet diameter. As the sailplane continues to gain altitude, you can open up the glide circle slightly. Once in the thermal, do not let the sailplane get so far downwind that you can't get it back to the field if the lift dies out.

Slope Soaring

Slope soaring is a unique sport in itself and probably the fastest growing aspect of R/C soaring. Wherever you can find a decent size hill with a 1015 m.p.h. wind blowing into it, you can slope soar. When the wind is blowing into the face of the hill, it is deflected upward by the slope of the hill. This upward rising air is the lift we use to soar on. Wind velocity and the amount of slope in the hill will determine the amount of lift generated by a particular site. The amount of lift can also be affected by obstructions such as trees, buildings, etc. So try to pick a hill with a long smooth approach to it that is free of obstructions.

Although there are many special aerobatic slope soaring designs around, the RISER can give a pretty good account of itself at slope soaring for duration. The only addition you need to make to your RISER for slope soaring is to add some ballast to help it penetrate the wind. Depending upon the actual velocity of the wind on the day you are flying, try adding 6 - 12 ounces of weight inside the fuselage directly over the C.G.

Launch the sailplane out over the crest of the hill by throwing it with the wings level and with the nose of the sailplane pointed slightly down. Fly the sailplane parallel to the slope, and when you need to turn around, always make your turns into the wind, away from the slope. Use smooth control movements and fly the sailplane back and forth across the slope staying in the lift. Never turn downwind, into the slope until you decide it is time to land. When landing, make sure that you have a fair amount of altitude, then fly the sailplane behind the slope, and make a gentle descent to a landing on top of the hill. If you are too high on your landing approach, make S-turns to lose altitude or go around.

It will take a little practice to master the art of slope soaring, but it is well worth the effort and a lot of fun.


If you have any technical questions or comments about this kit, or any other SIG product, please call us.
Weekdays, 7:00am - 4.30pm Central

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SIG MFG. CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520

In use of our products, Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.