INTRODUCTION

Sailplanes are an easy and relaxing way to learn and enjoy radio control flying. To fly them well, however, takes a lot of skill and knowledge about the air in which they fly. The RISER was designed with the beginner and sport flier in mind to create a "floater" that's docile and predictable in flight. The RISER'S gentle handling characteristics doesn't mean it lacks performance. Experts will find the RISER is capable of holding its own in two-meter sailplane competition.

The versatile RISER can even make a good R/C trainer! Many model clubs around the country like to train student pilots on a sailplane because of their gentle and slow speed flying characteristics. The slow speed allows the beginner ample time to develop the skills that are necessary for flying radio controlled models. If you have never flown an R/C model before, we strongly recommend that you obtain the assistance of a skilled R/C pilot before attempting to fly your Riser for the first time.

Instructions for installing the optional wing spoilers are included with the kit on a separate sheet. Spoilers are essential for making consistent spot landings and for other multi-task soaring events. Since they aren't necessary for everyday fun flying, the materials for adding spoilers to your RISER are not included in the kit.

Notes Before Beginning Construction

Any references to right or left refers to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit.

To build good flying models, you need a good straight building board. Crooked models don't fly well! The building board can be a table, a workbench, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, or whatever - as long as it is perfectly flat and untwisted. Cover the top surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wall board or foam board, into which pins can be easily pushed. Don't hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to hold drying parts in correct position.

When pinning and gluing parts directly over the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper or plastic kitchen wrap to prevent gluing the parts to the plans.

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Don't use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these ink marks will show through the model's final finish. Use a pencil instead of a pen.

Identifying Kit Parts

Leave all die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Then remove the pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet - use a modeling knife to cut it free.

The die-cut balsa wing ribs are identified below. The die-cut plywood parts can be identified using the plans and the "KEY TO PLYWOOD FORMERS". Mark the identification numbers on the corresponding parts before removing them from the die-cut sheets.

All of the other parts can be identified by the "COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST". Sort the different sizes of sticks and sheets into individual piles to avoid confusion during building. Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any full length strips into short pieces.
NOTE: Save any scrap balsa and plywood until the model is completely done. Some of it may be called for during construction.

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST
Die-Cut Balsa
21/16"x3"x18" Inboard Wing Panel Ribs, W-1 & W-1A 21/16"x3"x12" Outboard Wing Panel Ribs, W-2 thru W-8
Silkscreened Balsa
13/32"x5"x36" SHEET NO.1; Fuselage Sides 13/16"x3"x18" SHEET NO.2; Tail Parts
Sheet Balsa
81/16"x1"x20" Leading Edge Sheeting 11/16"x3"x36" Wing Center Sheeting, Shear Webs 13/32"x3"x36" Fuselage Sheeting, Top and Bottom 11/4"x2-1/4"x8" Fuselage Top Block and Hatch
Stick Balsa
141/16"x3/16"x36" Capstrips 31/8"x3/16"x36" Diagonal Ribs for Tail, Fuselage Stiffeners 33/16"x1/4"x36" Stabilizer, Elevator, Fin and Rudder Frames 11/4" Triangle x12" Fuselage Longerons
31/4" Triangle x36" Fuselage Longerons
Special Shaped Balsa
41/4"x1"x20" Trailing Edge Stock 43/8"x20" Shaped Leading Edge
Block Balsa
23/4"x1"x 6" Wingtips 11-1/2"x2"x2-1/2"; Nose Block
Hardwood
11/4"x3/4"x1" Basswood - Notched Towhook Block 25/32" dia. x3" Birch Dowels - Wing Hold-down Dowels
Spruce
41/8"x1/4"x18" Outboard Wing Spars, Top and Bottom 43/16"x1/4"x 20" Inboard Wing Spars, Top and Bottom 13/16" sq. x4" Elevator Joiner
Die-Cut Plywood
21/32"x4-1/2"x9-1/2" Fuselage Doublers FDF, FDR 13/32"x2-3/8"x11" Dihedral Brace 11/8"x4-1/2"x6" Fuselage Formers, Towhook Base
Hardware
6Easy Hinges 2Small Molded Nylon Control Horns (for elevator and rudder) 5#2 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws (for control horns & hatch hold-down) 22-56 R/C Links (clevises)
42-56 x10" Threaded Rods 2 .190" o.d.x20" Outer Nylon Pushrod Tubing 2 .130" o.d.x24" Inner Nylon Pushrod Tubing
Miscellaneous Parts
13/32" dia.x1-7/8" Formed Wire Towhook 138"x50" Full-Size Printed Plan 128 Page Instruction Booklet 13"x4-1/2" Decal

About The Building Sequence

The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is drying on one section, you can start on or proceed with another part. Work can even go forward on several sections of the same assembly at the same time, such as the front and rear sections of the fuselage.

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Keep in mind that the numbering sequence used in these instructions was chosen as the best way to explain the building of each major component and is not intended to be followed in exact one-two-three fashion. Start on the wing at NO.1 and after doing as many steps as is convenient, flip over to "FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or two there, then over to "TAIL SURFACECONSTRUCTION" and so forth. You will, of course, arrive at points where you can go no farther until another component is available. Plan ahead! Read the instructions completely and study the full size plans before beginning construction.


Radio Equipment Requirements

The RISER requires only elevator and rudder control, so any radio with two or more channels may be used. If you plan to use spoilers, a radio with at least three channels is required. Be certain that your radio system's frequency is approved for use in R/C model aircraft. Using a frequency assigned to R/C surface vehicles (cars, boats) not only endangers your model to interference from model car or boat drivers (who may not even be in sight), it is also against the law.

Glues

There are so many different glues available today for model construction that it can be confusing even for the experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most glues can be classified as one of four basic types:
  1. Fast cyanoacrylate adhesives (abbreviated in these instructions as "CA") such as SIG CA, Hot Stuff, Jet, etc ...
  2. Easy-to-use water-based glues such as SIG-BOND (yellow) and SIG SUPER-WELD (white).
  3. Super strong (but heavier) two-part epoxy glues such as SIG KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure).
  4. Traditional solvent-based model cements such as SIG-MENT.
Each of these types has different characteristics and advantages. Often times, the choice of which type to use is strictly a matter of personal preference based on your prior experience with a previous model. Some of the steps in these instructions call out the type of glue to use for that particular assembly. In other areas you can use your own judgement as to which type is best suited to the purpose and to your building schedule.

For general construction of the RISER, we recommend that you use cyanoacrylate adhesives. These adhesives have become very popular with modelers because of their fast drying times. With CA, you can virtually build a structure from start to finish without having to wait for the glue to dry. Most brands, including SIG CA, come in three different viscosities: thin, medium, and thick.
  • Thin CA has a watery consistency and uses capillary action to penetrate and soak into a joint. Since it is so thin and dries so quickly, the parts to be joined must be in firm contact with each other before application of the glue. Use thin CA for the initial assembly of balsa parts over the plans.
  • Medium viscosity CA (SIG CA PLUS) can also be used for initial assembly in the same manner as the thin, but it takes a little longer to dry. Joints made initially with thin CA should be reglued with medium CA for additional strength. Medium CA should also be used when gluing plywood, spruce, or hardwoods.
  • Thick CA (SIG CA SLOW) dries slowly enough that it allows you to apply the glue to the parts before assembling and gives you time to reposition the parts if necessary. Thick CA is good for gluing doublers to fuselages and forming fillets in high stress areas.
The drying time for all CA's can be speeded up by spraying an accelerator (such as SIG KWIK-SHOT) right on the joint.
SIG-BOND is handy for gluing things such as wing leading edge sheeting or center sheeting where you need to apply glue to several parts in one operation. You should also have on hand some epoxy glue, both 5-minute and slow dry, for areas subject to high stress or joints involving metal parts.

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You can't get along without a good sanding block

An assortment of different size sanding blocks are indispensable tools for model construction. A good general purpose block can be made by wrapping a 9"x11" sheet of sandpaper around a piece of hardwood or plywood. Use three screws along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper. Put 80-grit paper on the block during general construction. Switch to 220-grit paper for final finish sanding just before covering.

Another handy block can be made by gluing sandpaper onto a 24" or 36" long piece of aluminum channel stock. Most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum in various sizes and shapes. This long block is very useful for sanding leading and trailing edges accurately.

Finally, glue sandpaper onto different sizes of scrap plywood sticks and round hardwood dowels. These are handy for working in tight places and for careful shaping where a big block is too hard to control.

WING CONSTRUCTION

Inboard Wing

1.

  1. Pin down the 1/16"x1" front bottom sheeting.
  2. Pin down the 1/16"x3/16" balsa spar cap strip.
  3. Pin down the 1/4"x1" trailing edge.
2. Cut pieces of 1/16"x3" balsa for the center section sheeting. Glue and pin in place.

3.

Cut pieces of 1/16"x3/16" balsa for the bottom rib cap strips.

4.

Glue and pin the rib cap strips in place. Add the 3/16"x1/4" spruce spar on top of the spar cap strip. Use a few ribs to locate the spruce spar in relation to the trailing edge.

5.

Glue and pin all ribs in place except for the two end ribs located at the dihedral joints. Glue the ribs to the cap strips, planking, spruce spar, and trailing edge stock.




6.

Glue the inboard and outboard guide patterns to a piece of scrap plywood. Cut out the patterns and use the inboard rib guide to angle W-1A panel end rib. Glue and pin the rib in place.


7.

Use the outboard rib guide to angle W-1A outer rib. Glue and pin the rib in place. Use scrap 1/16" balsa to level the guide.

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8.
  1. Glue and pin the 3/16"x1/4" top spruce spar in place.
  2. Glue and pin the shaped leading edge in place.
9. Cut vertical grain pieces of 1/16"x3" balsa sheet for spar shear webs. Glue and pin these in place. Note that these extend oniy out to the fourth rib bay.

10.

  1. Glue and pin the top spar cap strip.
  2. Glue and pin the 1/16"x1" top sheeting.
  3. Glue and pin the 1/16"x3/16" rib cap strips.

11.

Cut pieces of 1/16"x3" balsa sheet for the top center section sheeting. Leave open, as shown in the picture, the area where the 3/32" plywood dihedral brace WR will be installed.



12.

Cut the wing gussets from the 3/16" printed balsa sheet. Glue wing gusset WGR in place as indicated on the plan.

13.

Tape a piece of 80 grit sandpaper to a flat surface. Carefully sand the inboard and outboard dihedral joints.

14.

Complete cutting the slots in the two balsa ribs for dihedral brace WR as shown in the picture.

15.

Trial fit dihedral brace WR buf do not glue in place at this time.

Repeat this procedure for the other inboard wing panel so that you will have one left panel and one right panel.



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Outboard Wing

16.

  1. Pin down the 1/16"x1" bottom sheeting.
  2. Pin down the 1/16"x3/16" spar cap strip.
  3. Pin down the 1/4"x1" trailing edge over the plans.
17. Cut pieces of 1/16"x3/16" balsa for the bottom rib cap strips. Glue and pin these as indicated on the plans.

18.

Glue and pin the 1/8"x1/4" spruce spar on top of the 1/16"x3/16" spar cap strip. Use a few ribs to locate the spruce spar in relation to the trailing edge.




19.

Glue and pin down the ribs (except W2) in place. Glue the ribs to the cap strips, spruce spar, planking, and trailing edge stock.



20.

Use the outboard rib guide to angle rib W2. Glue and pin W2 in place. Use a piece of cap strip stock to put the guide level with the rib cap strip.

21.

  1. Pin but do not glue the piece of shaped leading edge in place.
  2. Use a pencil to mark where the ribs touch the leading edge.


22. Use these marks to draw a line on the back of the leading edge.

23.

Draw a line on the front of the leading stock, taking off the same amount.

24.

Use a single edge razor blade to trim off the excess. Sand with a sanding block to smooth any rough areas.

25.

Glue and pin the leading edge in place.



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26. Glue and pin the 1/8"x1/4" spruce top spar in place.








27.

  1. Glue the 1/16"x3/16" top spar cap strip on top of the spar.
  2. Glue and pin the 1/16"x1" top sheeting in place.
28.
  1. Cut pieces of 1/16"x3/16" balsa for top rib cap strips.
  2. Glue and pin the cap strips in place.
29. Glue wing gusset WGT in place as indicated on the plans.

30.

Block sand the entire wing panel to smooth out any rough surfaces.

31.

Tape a piece of 80 grit sandpaper to a flat surface. Carefully sand the dihedral joint.

32.

Repeat this process for the tip rib.

33.

Trace the wing tip pattern on the 3/4"x1"x6" balsa block.



34.

Carve the tip block.



35.

Place the tip block against the tip rib. Trace around it as shown in the picture.

36.

Carve the tip block up to the line.

37.

Glue and pin the tip block to the tip rib.

38.

Carve the tip block to shape. Sand down to smooth any rough areas.

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39.

Use the patterns supplied to make two WTT's and two WTB's. Cut these from the scrap 3/32" die-cut plywood brace WR.


40.

Trial fit the dihedral braces WTT & WTB. Trim the ribs if necessary, but do not glue the dihedral braces in yet.

Repeat these procedures for the other outboard wing panel so that you will have one left panel and one right panel.

41.

Carve the leading edge of all wing panels with a single edge razor blade to airfoil contour.




Joining Wing Panels


42.

Sand the leading edge smooth with the sanding block.

43.

Trial fit WTT & WTB dihedral braces in the inner panels at the outboard rib.

Pin down the inboard panel over the plan. Position the outboard panel on the plan against the inboard panel and raise the tip rib 2-1/4" as shown. If the joint between the two panels does not match perfectly, sand one or both of the ribs until it does.

Glue the panels together with epoxy glue. Have a "wet" joint to insure that the glue will fill any gaps in the seam. Also epoxy glue dihedral braces WTT and WTB in place as shown. After the epoxy has set up, take up the wing panels and peel off any excess glue that has squeezed out. It is easier to do this before the glue completely cures.



Repeat the same procedure to the other outboard and inboard wing panels. You will now have one left wing and one right wing.

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STOP: If you wish to add the spoiler option it.js best to do it before proceeding to the next step. (See "Optional Spoilers" at the end of this section).

44.

Position the two wing halves over the plan. Pin the right half down so that its inboard panel is flat on the plan. Block up the left wing half 2-3/4" at the inboard-outboard joint. If the joint between the right and left wings do not match perfectly, sand one or both of the ribs until it does.



45.

Glue the panels together with epoxy glue. Have a "wet" joint to insure that the glue will fill any gaps in the seam. Also epoxy glue dihedral brace WR in place as shown. Be sure to glue it securely to the top and bottom spars. Take up the wing panels and trim off any excess glue as done when gluing panels together.

46.

Cut pieces of 1/16"x3"x36" balsa and finish sheeting the center section of the wing.

47.

Rubber bands can cut into the balsa wood. To protect the area, use pieces of scrap 1/32" plywood and glue into place on the wing trailing edge as shown.

48.

Completely sand the entire wing with fine sandpaper. The wing is now ready for covering.




Optional Spoilers

1.

  1. Cut to length a piece of 1/4" x 1" trailing edge stock for the spoiler.
  2. Cut through the cap strips and ribs (as shown on the plans and side view drawings) to allow the spoiler to fit flush in the wing. Make these cut outs only in the two center ribs of the spoiler bay.

2.

Trim away the cap strip material from the two center ribs of the spoiler bay to allow for the 1/16" x 1/2" balsa sheeting.

3.

Cut pieces of 1/8" sq. balsa to fit between the ribs and glue in place as indicated on the plans and side view drawings. These will act as a shelf for the 1/16" x 1/2" balsa sheeting.









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4.

Cut a piece of 1/16" x 1/2" balsa sheeting and glue in place on top of the 1/8" sq. balsa and flush with the top of the wing.

5.

Cut a piece of 3/16" x 1/4" balsa to fit in between the ribs as shown on the plans. Drill a 1/8" hole through the center of it to allow the plastic tubing to fit through. Glue the balsa piece in place.

6.

Using heat, pre-bend the plastic tubing to the shape shown on the plans. Drill 1/8" holes through the ribs at the locations shown on the plans to allow the tubing to pass through. Slip the tubing in and glue in place.




7.

Cut and bend a piece of 1/32" music wire per pattern and epoxy glue in place as shown on the plans. Also epoxy glue a small piece of glass cloth over the wire.


8.

Repeat this process for the other wing and then continue with the wing construction.

After covering the wing and the spoilers make hinges for the spoilers out of pieces of plastic film covering or trim tape and install the spoilers. Feed the cord through the plastic tubing from the servo hook-up side of the tubing. Connect the cord to the wire on the spoilers. Make the servo hook-up wire per pattern. Both pieces of cord from the spoilers are connected to this. The exact placement of the hook depends on where your servo is installed. Connect the hook to the servo. Both spoilers should come up at the same time andboth should open the same amount.




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