Different engine brands vary considerably in the distance from their mounting lugs to the needle valve body (spraybar) in the carburetor. The ideal location for the fuel tank is to have the center line of the tank about 1/4" to 3/8" below the needle valve body. This position helps provide a reliable idle when the fuel tank is nearly empty and less change in mixture as the fuel level drops.

A 10 oz. tank is shown on the plan for those who wish to have long flight duration with large engines. We believe the Sullivan RST 8 oz. tank is the best size for the average Kadet flier and this is the size we provide in the Kadet accessory kit (available at extra cost).

Beginners find that the concentration and tension of learning to fly is tiring if a flight is prolonged much beyond 7 or 8 minutes. Some flight instructors feel that skills are developed better in shorter flights of 5 or 6 minutes. And novices often find that 5 minutes can seem twice as long. Therefore, we recommend that a 10 ounce tank be used only on .35 and .40 sized engines. Even with these engines, an 8 ounce tank will give satisfactory flying time. The typical flight with the Kadet is done with the motor partly throttled so long runs per ounce of fuel are usual. A .40 will run over 10 minutes on 8 ounces, a .35 more than 12 minutes.

Measure the distance called "X" on the accompanying drawing from the engine you will be using. For example, let's assume that distance "X" turns out to be 1". If this engine were used in a model with no downthrust, then the engine thrust line would also be the fuselage datum line. But, since the Kadet MK II has downthrust incorporated into the fuselage construction, the engine will actually be approximately 3/32" lower than 1" in the area of the needle valve, so this must be taken into account.

Subtract 3/32" from measurement "X" to produce measurement "Y" or in our example, 29/32".

To find the hole center measurement "Z" for a 10 oz. Sullivan tank cap hole in the fIrewall, subtract 1/4" to 3/8" from "Y".

1" (X) - 3/32" = 29/32" (Y) - 1/4" to 3/8" = 21/32" (Z). Place the hole center for the 10 oz. tank 21/32" to 17/32" above the horizontal datum line of the firewall.
The builder does not have to do anything about measuring or incorporating the downthrust. Just use the printed parts furnished and it is automatically built in as you construct the fuselage.

The highest that the tank hole center can be placed for a 10 ounce RST tank without fuselage modification is 3/4" above the horizontal datum line. (The top of the tank will then be touching the center stringer of the fuselage.)

The highest that the tank hole center can be placed for an 8 ounce RST tank without fuselage modification is 7/8" above the horizontal datum line. It is unlikely that any standard engine would require it to be any higher than this, but if so it could be raised 3/16" higher by leaving out the center 3/16" stringer of the top or by cutting a notch into it.

Use Sullivan RST tanks with the wide side down. Don't use the "vent bubble" molded into the narrow side. It is not necessary for good operation of the tank. The height of the 10 oz. RST is 2-1/8" so the tank centerline is 1-1/4" below the tank top. The 8 oz. centerline is 15/16" below the tank top. When using the recommended 8 oz. Sullivan RST tank it is possible to raise it higher in the fuselage when required by a high needle valve location than can be done with a 10 oz. However, since we are working with the centerline on both sides, the dimension "Z" will be the same for either tank.

Once the datum lines and location of the tank hole have been drawn on the front of F-IA, proceed with the firewall assembly as detailed in the following paragraphs.


We occasionally receive suggestions from builders that a removable hatch be designed into the model for access to the gas tank. Our opinion is this is not the best method in most cases. The hatch opening makes the nose weaker and there is no good way to keep oil leaking in around the hatch. A method of fastening has to be built into the fuselage to hold a hatch in place.
Modern plastic tanks are virtually indestructable under normal use and bursting or cracking is almost unknown. If you use Sig Heat Proof Silicone tubing (which will not harden or deteriorate in fuel) in the plastic tank, the tank will seldom have to be removed. We have models in which tank has been installed for three or four years without ever needing removal. So it is quite practical to put the tank in semi-permanently. Check the models at a contest - you'll find that the majority have sealed noses, as does this kit.
Read this before you drill the 1" hole in the firewall.

Some fliers prefer not to bring the tank cap through the firewall as is shown in the construction sequence in these instructions. Instead they drill two holes for the vent tubes only and make the vent tubes long enough to extend through the firewall. This method requires little sealing but it is more difficult to install and remove the tank. The best way to manage this is to feed long pieces of fuel line through the holes and attach them to the tank in the cabin area. Steer the tank into the nose as the tubes are pulled back through the holes. If you are undecided as to which method you should use, our advice is that large hole installation shown in the construction pictures is the best for beginners.
Put scrap wood supports under and at the back of the tank. The front is supported by the 1/4" hole in the firewall. Seal the tank cap in the hole with G.E. Silicone Bathtub Seal (available at hardware stores) or Devcon Seal-It. Put an oil-proof finish on the firewall and in the hole before sealing the tank cap. Get some of the sealer on the sides of the hole and also put a bead over the edge of the cap at the front. Should you need to remove the tank, break out the scrap wood supports in the rear and push out the silicon rubber seal around the front cap. Reach into the fuselage and guide the tank outside.
Some builders, after putting their receiver battery in a plastic sack, taping it shut, wrapping it in a foam rubber package and stuffing it into the nose under the tank, then stuff paper toweling or foam rubber in to fill the nose compartment and keep everything firmly in place.


After installation, put fuel tubing on the vent tube and run it to the outside of the cowling on the bottom, so that fuel overflow is not blown over the wing-fuselage joint, where it may leak into the fuselage. The best way to fill the tank is to take off the fuel line to the needle vlave and pump the fuel in there until it runs out the vent. Be sure and use a filter on your fuel supply can, and it is a good idea to have a filter between the tank and the needle valve also.
Pressure Feed If the engine you are using is equipped with a muffler pressure tap, make use of it for a more even fuel feed and reliable operation. The hookup for pressure feed is shown in the picture. To fill the tank, remove the fuel line from the engine and pump the fuel in. When the tank is full, it will overflow through the muffler pressure line. Use transparent or translucent fuel line so you can see the fuel starting to overflow when the tank is full. Should some fuel happen to get in the muffler, drain it out before starting the engine. Do not try to fill the tank in reverse from the pressure line, the tank will not fill properly and fuel may be forced into the engine.

Firewall Assembly


  1. Smooth and even F-IA and F-IC with the sandpaper block.
  2. Glue them together with epoxy glue as shown in the accompany drawing to make the firewall. If they should be warped, clamp them together with "c" clamps or put the assembly in a vise while the glue is setting
  3. Mark the vertical and horizontal datum line.


Place the motor you will use on the firewall and draw lines as a guide for positioning the glass-filled motor mounts. (Different motors have different mounting dimensions.)


  1. Line up the marks on the side of the mount with the horizontal line you have drawn on the firewall as shown in photo 57.
NOTE: Read "Tips On Tanks" before cutting out a tank hole.


  1. Locate the center of the tank cap hole and draw a 1" circle on the wood.
  2. Drill a series of holes on the inside of the circle.


Break out the wood and sand the edges smooth with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.


  1. Drill out the motor holes on the firewall with a 11/64" drill bit for the 6-32 blind nuts.
  2. Position the nylon nose gear bearing on the firewall, punch the holes with an ice pick or awl and drill out with a 7/64" bit to pass the 4-40 bolts.
  3. Turn the firewall over and drill out the backs of the 7/64" nosegear bearing holes with a bit to take the shanks of the 4-40 blind nuts. To complete the holes, take a modeling knife and round off the edges on the back of the firewall so that the rounded off part of the blind nut will fit down into the hole when it is pulled tight against the firewall.
  4. Drill out the backs of the motor mount holes with a bit to take the shanks of the 6-32 blind nuts.


61. Be sure and epoxy the blind nuts to the back of the firewall so they will not come out later when it may be necessary to take off the mounts. Don't get epoxy into the threads of the bolts. Pull the blind nut points tight into the wood with the bolts before the glue sets up.

With the mounts and nose gear bracket in place, cut off the mounting bolts for both flush with the face of the blind nuts on the back of the firewall. This is to prevent any chance of the bolt ends puncturing the tank or rubbing on the batteries.


  1. Put the spinner backplate that will be used on the motor. (Note: Some backplates have a recess in the back as does this Goldberg spinner used on the prototype Kadet Mark II. This is why the measurement must be taken from the spinner backplate itself and not the prop drive washer on the motor.
  2. Position the motor on the mounts so the spinner backplate will be 3 1/2" from the face of the firewall. It is handy to tack the motor in position with some spots of epoxy, brought up over the edge of engine to grip it good or put a strip of double-faced masking tape between the engine and the mounts. This will keep it from slipping during the next step.


NOTE: Read "Cowling Installation" at step 124

Mark the engine mounting holes as shown in photo #63. Remove the engine, and mounts from the firewall, and drill at the marks with a bit that's just large enough to clear your engine mounting bolts. (Hint: if you are not used to doing this sort of job, don't try to punch and drill all 4 holes at once. Punch and drill only one hole. Then put the motor back on the mounts, secured by the first bolt. Punch and drill a 2nd hole, repeat the procedure, then a third hole, etc. With this process you are much less likely to make a drilling mistake that will ruin the mounts.) Drilling our mounts will not be a problem if a good quality high-speed drill bit is used, operated at neither too fast or too slow a speed and with moderate pressure.

Re-install the motor mounts to the firewall, then bolt the engine in place. SIGSH109 6-32x3/4" socket head bolts for long engines and SIGSH652 Aircraft Lock Nuts, or SIGSH104 4-40 x 3/4" and SIGSH651 Aircraft Lock Nuts for small engines are recommended for mounting. They are not furnished in this kit. It helps with this method to file a flat place on the bottom of the mount, so the locknut will set flush with the bottom of the mount.

NOTE: If the fuselage sizes are bowed or warped, it will not be a problem. Pinning them down to a flat building board and gluing on the structure will flatten them out.


  1. Drill or cut out the dowel holes in the fuselage sides so that they will be located after the inner doubler is installed.
  2. Trim off the fuselage sheet even with the back end of the fuselage and glue the rear fuselage extension in place. Use a straight edge to make certain it is lined up straight with the rest of the fuselage side.


Glue on the 1/4" sq. balsa pieces around the edges of the fuselage sides as indicated on the printed sheets. Also cut and glue the 1/4"x1/2" balsa strip located under the wing.


  1. Pin and glue pieces of 1/8" x 3/8" balsa in place.
  2. Note the gap left for F-3.
  3. Glue die cut Lite-Ply nose doubler FN on the nose.
CAUTION: Epoxy is recommended for FN. Water base glues such as Sig Bond, Tite Bond, Elmer's etc. may cause curling because of the large area being glued. Spread a thin film of epoxy with a paddle. Don't use a large amount of glue - it will add weight to the model.


  1. The balsa cabin doublers are cut from 1/8" x 3" sheet. (Note: Because sheet wood varies in actual width, the dotted lines printed on the fuselage side may not line up exactly with the sheets. It makes no difference - just install the sheets butted against each other.
  2. A gap is left for cabin former F-3.


  1. Glue the 1/4"x1/2" balsa strip at the end of the second 1/8" doubler sheet piece.


  1. Continue on back, adding pieces as indicated.
  2. Leave a gap for F-4.


  1. Cut the 1/4" sq. balsa side stiffeners a little overlength and finish to an exact fit using a sanding block. Always try for good joints without gaps - they are stronger than trusting the glue to fill the gap. If you have a perfect fit, you can use thin CA to glue the parts; otherwise, use medium CA. Slow CA or epoxy will fill gaps in an emergency, but remember those joints will be heavier than joints made with thin CA or Sig-Bond.
  2. Cut FB out of the printed tail parts sheet.


Glue the parts in place.


Cut the fuselage sides from the sheet with a modeling knife. Don't cut too close, leave a bit for sanding, cutting too close can result in too deep a cut that is harder to fix than taking down the side a little with the sanding block.


Finish the side to exact contour by use of the sanding block. Place the two sides together and match them by sanding as required to make them duplicates.


74. Add DCF and DC.


Put 5 minute epoxy on F3 and glue in place on one of the sides. As the glue sets up, use a triangle to get F3 exactly perpendicular. Other glue can be used if you secure the former in place while it is drying.


Repeat the procedure with F-4.


Pin the fuselage side to the top view plan along the flat part between the nose and the landing gear plate position.


Epoxy glue the remaining side to F3 and F4. Pin in place and check for square with a triangle.


The bottom at the rear is joined with a piece of scrap 3/32" sheet. (It is shown here after being glued in and dry. Don't take up the fuselage from the plan to put this piece in, but fit it in from above before the top crosspiece is put in.)


  1. Pull the rear end together by using square weights or something similar (pieces of scrap iron shown here) that is perpendicular and yet heavy enough not to move.
  2. Pin and glue the rear cross pieces in place.


Glue in the four remaining 1/4" sq. balsa rear fuselage cross pieces.


Use pins and masking tape to hold the rear fuselage together until the glue dries.


  1. Drill through the 1/4"x1/2" balsa strip.
  2. Trial fit the 1/4" dia.x5-1/4" rear hold-down dowel, but don't glue it in place until after covering.


84. Glue the 1/4"x1/2" balsa crossbrace to the back of F-4, but not to the dowel until after covering.


Add the 3/32" sheet balsa fill-in at the back part of the fuselage, just in front of the stabilizer mount. This fill in is only on the top of the fuselage and serves as an anchor block for the tab on the bottom of the fin.
NOTE: This fill-in is inset between the 1/4 square and is flush with their top. The grain runs lengthwise.


Epoxy the firewall assembly F-IA and F-IC to the front of the fuselage. Note that the top of F-1C is even with the top of the fuselage sides, and the bottom of the fIrewall extends about 3/32" below the fuselage sides.


  1. Cut pieces of 3/4" triangular stock to fit against the rear of the firewall as braces.
  2. The stock may need to be notched out a bit to fit over the blind nuts.


  1. Pin balsa triangles FT temporarily in place.
  2. Glue F-2 in place on the fuselage, using printed wood triangles FF, glued to the fuselage and F-2, to hold it against FT.
  3. Remove sawn balsa triangles FT after the glue is dry.
  4. Glue on F-IB.


  1. Glue 3/16" sq. stringers into notches in F-IB and F-2.
  2. Cut off flush with the face of F-2.
STOP: Go back and reread "Tips On Tanks".


  1. Carefully cut away the bottom of F-2 so that the fuel tank will fit into place. (Note: With the higher tank locations, do not cut into F-2 as far as will eventually be necessary because too large a cutout at this stage of construction will weaken F-2 to the point that it might crack when pressure is applied during the sheeting process. A partial cutout will be sufficient to perform Step 91.


  1. Glue scrap blocks on each side of the tank to hold it in position. Don't get the blocks too tight, just enough to keep the tank from rattling around. The tank will need to be removable after the fuselage top is on by pulling on it from the bottom side. Hold the tank in place with temporary scrap crosspieces across the bottom and the back. They can be broken out when necessary to take out the tank. Or, you can stuff paper or foam rubber and the battery under it.



  1. Cut a piece of 3/32" balsa sheet large enough to cover half of the nose. Bevel the bottom edge so that the sheet is started over the curve.
  2. Pin and glue the bottom edge to the fuselage side.
  1. Dampen the sheet with water until it is pliable. Curve it over the stringers and glue and pin in place. After it is dry, trim the upper edge on the center of the top 3/16" sq. stringer.
94. Repeat the process on the other half of the nose.


Trim the edge of the sheet flush with the face of F-2. Now complete the tank clearance cutaway in the bottom F-2 (Pictures 90, 91) to whatever amount is necessary to allow the back of the tank to be raised to the desired height.

96. Drill the dowel hole and trial fit the front 1/4" dia.x5-1/4" wing hold-down dowel. Glue the dowel in place after covering.


Glue the 1/4"x1/2" balsa crossbrace to the front of F-3, but not to the dowel.


Trim the 1/4"x1/2" piece to the same angle as the fuselage sides.


Glue the triangles FT to the fuselage and to F-2.
STOP! At this point decide which type of windshield you will use, regular or simplified and follow whichever directions apply.


Regular Windshield


Carefully cut the ends of the 3/4"x4"x3 1/4" windshield block to fit on the fuselage, using the side pattern WS. Trace the pattern on both sides of the block and don't cut too close to the lines. Finish with the large sanding block, fitting to the fuselage as you work the block to final shape.
With some of the higher tank positions, it is necessary to cut away the bottom of the windshield block so it will clear the top of the tank. To keep from cutting too deep into the block, trace the outline of F-2 on the bottom of the block as a limit guide to the tank cutout.

Incidently, if you want to save a little weight, do not glue on the windshield block in as shown in picture 100-2, but leave it pinned in place until after the rough shaping done in Picture 103. Remove the block and carve out the interior of the block with a wood gouge. A shell of 3/16" thickness is more than enough strength.


  1. Hold the wing in place on the fuselage.
  2. Cut into WF as required to make it fit against the wing and bevel it on the back to sit down on the top of F-3.


Trace the outline of WF on the top of the windshield block.


  1. Remove the wing and WF.
  2. Carve the windshield to rough shape.
  1. Return WF to its place, but this time with a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap between the fuselage and the wing.
  2. Glue WF to the leading edge of the wing.


Glue FP in place on the center of the wing and to WF


Cut a fairing block to fit on the wing - WF juncture using the FP pattern on the plan.


Round the block to a pleasing shape that blends into the wing contours, and glue it in place. Finish shaping with a sanding block.


Simplified Windshield

If you have selected the optional windshield which requires no fairing on the wing, follow these directions, instead of 100 through 107 above.


Use pattern OW instead of W8 to shape the windshield block. Trace it on both sides of the block.


Carve or saw the block to size.


Glue the block in place and carve it to shape.



Put a piece of wax paper on the fuselage.

b Make a small fairing on the front of the wing with a piece of 3/16" sq. or other scrap and glue it to the wing. Shape it to fill the gap between the wing and fuselage. Any small gaps can be filled with Sig Epoxolite Putty or epoxy glue. Now go on to picture No. 108.

This is the best time to install the pushrods, while easy access is possible through the bottom of the fuselage. We recommend SIGSH559 nylon tubing - wire cable push rods for the nose gear and throttle.


  1. Bolt the nose gear in place with the cable attachment fitting on the steering arm.
  2. Mark the best spot on the firewall for the pushrod to exit and hit the fitting. (The steering arm must be angled forward so when the servo pulls it back for a turn, it will clear the firewall. So remember that the arm moves farther out than it does in and pick the center of the movement for gauging the exit hole.)
109. With a long drill or a piece of music wire (put a point on it and a notch) drill out the firewall on the mark.


Drill on through the fuselage with the drill or wire at the approximate angle to carry the pushrod cable to the servo. (Look ahead a little in the instructions if you are uncertain and place your servos in the fuselage at the approximate place they will be so you will have a better idea of what you are shooting at.) Placement is not very critical - the approximate location is shown on the plan. Be sure and leave enough space ahead of them to get the tank in and out.


111. Put the nosewheel pushrod tubing in place and use the cable to locate it in relation to the steering arm. Do not glue the pushrod tubing to the firewall yet.


This photo below shows a typical radio installation in a Kadet MK II. The radio that you decide to use in your model may have a slightly different appearance, but the photo should give you a fundamental idea on how the components will be arranged in the aircraft. For more specific information on radio installation, refer to the booklet "Basics of Radio Control."

There are several important items in the photo that should be emphasized. First, notice the amount of padding wrapped around the receiver to protect it from vibration. The battery is equally well protected and is located under the fuel tank (not visible in the photo). Notice also how the radio antenna exits the fuselage side as close as possible to the receiver. The on/off switch is mounted internally on the servo tray. A nylon rod is used to activate the switch from outside the model. Lastly, notice how all of the wiring has been neatly tucked away where it can't interfere with the moving servo arms.

The servo tray shown mounts three servos side-by-side. This arrangement works well in the Kadet MK II because of the generous width. However, not all radios come with a servo tray in this configuration. Most radio sets now come with a 2"x1" type servo tray which has two servo openings side-by-side and one opening turned 90 degrees so the servo sits crosswise in the fuselage.

This photo shows another model but the aileron hookup in the Kadet Mk II is done in the same way.

All of the extra parts needed to finish your Kadet in one convenient package at a lower price than buying them separately. ORDER SIGAK249.
22-56 RlC Links
12-1/2" Nose Wheel
22-3/4" Main Wheels
18 oz. Fuel Tank
2Solder Clevises
2Threaded Couplers
12" Dia. Spinner
15/32" Wheel Collar & Allen Wrench
24#64 Rubber Bands
44-40 Engine Mounting Bolts
44-40 Hex Nuts
4#4 Flat Washers
112" Heat-Proof Fuel Line
2Flexible Cable Pushrods
This type of tray is perfectly suitable to the Kadet. We recommend that you use the two side-by-side openings for the elevator and rudder servo, and the remaining opening for the throttle servo. Align the tray so that the throttle servo is towards the front of the fuselage.

Materials to construct the rudder and elevator pushrods, including the 1/4" sq. balsa pushrod sticks, are included with the kit. Flexible cable pushrods (Sig SH-559) are required for the throttle and steerable nosewheel, but must be purchased separately. Study the plans and "Basics of Radio Control" on how to make pushrods.


112. Run the tubing in flowing curves from the nose to the servo location. Picture 112A and 112B show a typical tubing installation in another model, but the Kadet Mark II is similar.


  1. Scrap block standoffs can be used to hold the pushrod tubing in position.
  2. After the tubing is located, the cables can be completed and installed.
NOTE: Roughen the nylon tube with sandpaper before you epoxy it to the standoff.


Fit and glue the piece of 1/4"x3"x3-1/4" balsa (LGB) in between the sides on the fuselage bottom.


Glue the 1/8"x4"x12" piece of Lite-Ply to the bottom of the fuselage at the nose. Use tape to hold it until dry.


Glue pieces of 3/32" x 3" balsa sheet to the bottom of the fuselage behind the Li te-PI y.


The top of the fuselage, from F-4 back to the stabilizer opening, is covered in the same manner as the bottom.


Glue LGP to the inside of the fuselage on LGB.


Hold the landing gear in position on the bottom of the fuselage, l/8" from the back of the 12" Lite-Ply bottom piece and drill 7/64" holes into the fuselage interior.


Use a long 5/32" drill or a piece of 5/32" music wire to enlarge the holes on the inside to accept the blind nuts.


Bolt the landing gear in place and pull the blind nuts into the wood, using epoxy glue to hold them in place. Brace LGP to the sides with pieces of scrap wood.



The wheel collar suggested as optional for the nose gear is not furnished. File or grind a notch in the collar so it will fit down on the coil farther. The collar permits altering the height of the nose gear slightly if desired (see instructions further on in this change sheet about adjustments to nose gear height.) Don't try to make large adjustments in nose wheel height with the wheel collar because the landing gear is more easily bent on a hard landing if the coil spring is located very far below the nylon nosewheel bracket. Large adjustments should be made by changing the wheel size.


Round the fuselage corners using a razor blade or modeling knife, then finish up with a sanding block.


Round the tail end of the fuselage to a smooth contour.



To make openings in the cowl for the engine, first drill a series of holes about 1/8" in diameter around the area to be removed. Cut through the bits of plastic between.


  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine during the initial stages and work with the cylinder head hole.
  2. Cutting a slit out the back of the cowl from the head hole can be of assistance, but if care is used the task can be accomplished without the slit.
  3. Start the hole undersize and open it up slowly, fitting as you go so it doesn't end up larger than necessary.


126. The best way to open up the hole is to go around the edges with an "apple-peeling" motion, paring off a small amount of plastic with each stroke.


  1. Cut the hole for the carburetor last.
  2. Round all of the corners.
  3. Put the spinner backplate on during final cutting check exact cowl position.


After the fuselage construction is completed, the cowl may be mounted.
  1. Epoxy the hardwood cowl blocks to the firewall.
  2. Place the cowling in position and put on the spinner backplate.
  3. Tape the cowl in place and drill small pilot holes into the blocks for the screw locations.
  4. Enlarge the holes in the cowling only to pass the No.4 screws.

(A hole in the front of the cowl to allow screwdriver access to the L. G. set screw is handy. It permits on the field adjustment of the nose gear without removing the cowl.)
NOTE: A Kadet builder has suggested use of a Zona Sabre Saw for the cowl holes.



Cut out the tail parts on a jig saw or with a modeling knife. Don't cut too close to the lines.


Sand down to the outline.


Glue the fin parts together.


Sand off the lines and smooth both sides of the fin.


Round the front edge of fin. Do not round the trailing edge or the bottom.


Pin pieces of 1/8"x3/8" balsa strip on the stabilizer plan.


Cut and glue crosspieces of 1/8"x3/8" strip.


When the frame is dry, sand smooth with the sanding block.



Pin a strip of 1/16"x3" balsa planking to the stabilizer. Do not wait for it to dry completely, proceed to Step 138.


Cut a piece of planking to fit the remaining area and glue it in place. Do not wait for the glue to dry completely. Let it dry a few minutes to get a grip on the parts, remove the pins and turn the stabilizer over on the building board. (This speeded procedure helps insure a flat, true stabilizer.)


Repeat the process on the other side, first with a strip of 1/16"x3" balsa, then the front tapered piece.


After the second short piece is added, leave the stabilizer pinned down until it is completely dry.


Sand the stabilizer smooth with a sanding block. Round the leading edge in the same manner as the fin was shaped previousIy. Also round the leading edges of the rudder and stabilizer to prepare them for covering.


At this point, most modelers prefer to cover the fuselage and tail pieces before proceeding with the remaining construction steps (steps 142 thru 148). This is particularly recommended if you plan on covering with plastic film. Once covered, the tail surfaces can be hinged with EASY HINGES using the instructions mentioned earlier. The photos show the parts uncovered for clarity.
To glue the stabilizer in place, begin by positioning and pinning it accurately on the fuselage (see the General Alignment Diagram on page 20 of "The Basics of Radio Control"). When satisfied with the alignment, draw cut lines on the bottom of the stab at the fuselage sides. Remove the stab and using a sharp knife, carefully cut away the covering (try not to cut into the wood) where the stab will contact the fuselage. There must be wood-to-wood contact at this joint. Use Kwik-Set epoxy to glue the stabilizer in place.


Install the nylon control horns.


144. Cut or file off the ends of the horn screws.


Draw a centerline on the fuselage and mark the cutout required for the fin tab slot.


Cut out the slot.


The fin fits into it.


Cut out a slot for the pushrod exit.

NOTE: Make certain that the fin is firmly epoxied to the fuselage top as well as in the fin slot.

If desired you can add a nylon pushrod guide (not furnished). The elevator pushrod exits through the opening in the fuselage rear. Open it up as required to pass the pushrod. The pushrod wire may be bent slightly if it tends to rub on the fuselage.

Take note that the elevator horn arm is centered on the elevator, not the horn mounting holes, which must be offset to locate the arm in the center of the fuselage opening. (See photo 143.)