Since its introduction to the modeling scene in 1973, the Kadet series has set the industry standard for R/C trainers. More people have learned to fly with a Kadet than any other trainer in history. Its popularity led directly to the development of the Kadet Junior, the Kadet Senior, and the Kadet Seniorita. The Kadet Mark II is a refined development of the famed Kadet Mark I trainer and is intended specially for 4-channel flight training. If you have the assistance of a skilled R/C flier during the initial test and training flights, then full 4-channel control with ailerons can be used from the beginning, although some R/C instructors feel it is best to get in some flying on rudder first before advancing to ailerons. If no expert assistance, is available for first flights, our recommendation is that you begin with 3 channels only, with rudder as the main turning control instead of ailerons. Then, after you gain confidence, go to 4-channel control with ailerons.
Be sure to read the "Basics of Radio Control" booklet included with this kit. It will provide you with the basic knowledge that you will need to be successful in the challenging hobby of radio controlled model aircraft. From the selection of radio equipment to that first exciting flight, the "Basics of Radio Control" will be invaluable to beginners and more experienced pilots as well.

Radio Equipment Requirements

Selection of radio equipment should be based on the amount of money you wish to spend, the type of airplanes you intend to fly, and your future goals in the hobby. Although the Kadet can be flown on two, three, or four channels, a good four-channel radio will last for years and can be used in more advanced models when your flying skills improve. Be certain that the frequency transmitted by your radio is approved for use in R/C model aircraft. Using a frequency assigned to surface vehicles (cars, boats) not only endangers your model to interference from model car or boat drivers (who may not even be in sight), it is also against the law.

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Engine Size

We are of the opinion that R/C trainers should have adequate power for such things as grass field takeoffs, beating their way upwind, etc. For cruising around and learning to fly, throttle back with the knowledge that power is available when needed. Therefore, we generally think that a .29 to .40 size engine is best for the Mark II. If a .25 is used, the model should be kept light, without a lot of heavy finish. A .25 would also serve adequately on two or three channels. Remember that a muffler will reduce engine power and allowance should be made for this. If you live at high altitude, engines will not develop power equivalent to that delivered at sea level.
A Note on Mufflers
Unless you are one of the lucky few who has a flying site miles away from any sort of civilization, you should use an effective muffler on your engine. The sound of an unmuffled R/C engine can be annoying to anyone within earshot. The last thing you want to do is turn potentially friendly neighbors into enemies that could, in the worst case, go so far as to have all flying activity at your field shut down.
Most manufacturers supply good mufflers with their engines. If for some reason you have an engine without a muffler, or the supplied muffler doesn't fit the Kadet, you can use one of the many aftermarket mufflers. Tatone's Extended Peace Pipe muffler, Mac's Scotsman or Expansion mufflers, DuBro's Muff-I-Aire and Mini-Muff-I-Aire, as well as others will all fit the Kadet.

Recommended Glues

There are so many different glues available today for model construction that it can be confusing for the newcomer. To simplify matters, most glues can be classified as one of these basic types:
  1. Fast-drying cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA) or "super glues" such as SIG CA, Hot Stuff, Jet, etc .....
  2. Easy-to-use water-base wood glues such as SIG-BOND (yellow) and SIG SUPER-WELD (white).
  3. Super strong two-part epoxy glues such as SIG KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure).
  4. Traditional solvent-base model cements such as SIG-MENT.
Each of these types has different characteristics and advantages. Often times, the choice of which type to use is strictly a matter of personal preference based on your prior experience with a previous model. Some of the steps in the book call out the type of glue to use for that particular assembly. In other areas you can use your own judgement as to which type is best suited to the purpose and to your building schedule. For general construction of the Kadet Mark II, we recommend the use of cyanoacrylate adhesives or SIG-BOND. Even if you plan to use CA, SIGBOND will come in handy for gluing parts such as wing leading edge sheeting or center sheeting where you need to apply glue to several parts in one operation. You should also have on hand some epoxy glue, both 5-minute and slow dry, for areas subject to high stress or joints involving metal parts.

Cyanoacrylate adhesives have become very popular with modelers because of their fast drying times. With CA, you can virtually build a structure from start to finish without having to wait for the glue to dry. Most brands, including SIG CA, come in three different viscosities: thin, medium, and thick.
  • Thin CA has a watery consistency and uses capillary action to penetrate and soak. into a joint. Since it is so thin and dries so quickly, the parts to be joined must be in firm contact with each other before application of the glue. Use thin CA for the initial assembly of balsa parts over the plans.
  • Medium viscosity CA (SIG CA PLUS) can also be used for initial assembly in the same manner as the thin, but it takes a little longer to dry. Joints made initially with thin CA should be reglued with medium CA for additional strength. Medium CA should also be used when gluing plywood, spruce, or hardwoods.
  • Thick CA is good for gluing doublers to fuselages and forming fillets in high stress areas.
The drying time for all CA's can be speeded up by spraying an accelerator (such as SIG KWIK-SHOT) right on the joint.


CAUTION:
Some people have experienced allergic reactions when exposed to epoxy or cyanoacrylate glues. This is very rare. However, it is always important that such glues, and also paints, thinners, and solvents, be used with adequate ventilation to carry fumes away.

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You Can't Get Along Without A Good Sanding Block

An assortment of different size sanding blocks are indispensable tools for model construction. A good general purpose block can be made by wrapping a 9" x 11" sheet of sandpaper around a piece of hardwood or plywood. Use three screws along one edge to hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper. Put 80-grit paper on the block during general construction. Switch to 220 grit paper for final sanding just before covering.

In addition to the large block, there are places where a smaller one is handy. (See photos 17 and 24.) Also, a sandpaper "file" can be made by gluing sandpaper to a flat spruce stick for working in tight places.

Cutting Out Printed Parts


A jig saw is best for this job. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the black line on the part. When fitting the part into place on the model, use the sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit. If a modeling knife is used to cut out the parts, don't cut too close to the lines - leave some extra wood outside the line and finish the edge with the sanding block.


About The Building Sequence

The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is drying on one section, you can start on or proceed with another part. Work can even go forward on several sections of the same assembly at the same time, such as the front and rear sections of the fuselage.

Keep in mind that the number sequence used in these instructions was chosen as the best way to explain the building of each major component and is not intended to be followed in exact one-two-three fashion. Start on the wing at No.1 and after doing as many steps as is convenient, flip over to "FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or two there, then over to "TAIL CONSTRUCTION" and so forth. You will, of course, arrive at points where you can go no farther until another component is available. Plan ahead, read the instructions completely and study the full size plans before beginning construction.

Notes Before Beginning Construction

Any references to right or left refers to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit.

To build good flying models, you need a good straight building board. Crooked models don't fly well! The building board can be a table, a workbench, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, or whatever - as long as it is perfectly flat and untwisted. Cover the top surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wall board or foam board, into which pins can be easily pushed. Don't hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to hold drying parts in correct position.

When pinning and gluing parts directly over the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper or plastic kitchen wrap to prevent gluing the parts to the plans.

Don't use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these ink marks will show through the model's final finish. Use a pencil instead of a pen.

Pins can be pushed through all pieces in the kit without any lasting damage. Don't be afraid to use plenty of pins when planking with SIG-BOND.

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Leave all die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Then remove the pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet - use a modeling knife to cut it free.

The die-cut balsa wing ribs are identified within the wing construction section. The die-cut plywood parts can be identified using the plans and the "Key To Plywood Parts". Mark the identification numbers on the corresponding parts before removing them from the die-cut sheets.

All of the other parts can be identified by the "Complete Kit Parts List". Sort the different sizes of sticks and sheets into individual piles to avoid confusion during building. Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any full-length strips into short pieces. Pick out the two hardest 1/4" sq. balsa sticks to use as pushrods.

NOTE: Save any scrap balsa and plywood until the model is completely done. Some of it may be called for during construction.

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST
Printed Balsa Sheets
13/32"x6"x36" SHEET #1; Left Fuse Side, FF, DGF, FP, WT 13/32"x6"x36" SHEET #2; Right Fuse Side, FF; F-1B, DGF, WT 11/4"x3"x18" SHEET #3; R-1, R-2, R-3, DG, FB 13/32"x3"x4-1/2" SHEET #4, WF, F-2
Die-Cut Balsa Sheets
43/32"x3"x18" SHEET #5; W2 Wing Ribs 13/32"x3"x18" SHEET #6; W1 Wing Ribs
Sheet Balsa
21/16"x3"x36" Stabilizer Sheeting (or 3 ea. 1/16"x3"x24") 33/32"x1-1/2"x30" Trailing Edge Bottom Planking 83/32"x3"x30" Planking for Wing Leading Edge, Center Section, Wingtip, and Fuselage Top and Bottom 11/8"x3"x24" Cabin Doublers, First Piece Aft of Lite-Ply Floor
11/8"x3-9/16"x9" Spar Web Material 11/4"x3"x3-5/16" LGB
Block Balsa
23/4"x2"x3" Wing Fairing Blocks 13/4"x4"x3-1/4" Windshield Block WS
Stick Balsa
43/32"x3/16"x36" Capstrips 23/32"x1"x36" Trailing Edge Top Planking 41/8"x3/8"x36" Stabilizer Frame 413/64"x13/64"x36" Rear Wing Spar, Trailing Edge Spar, Fuselage Stringers
81/4"x1/4"x36" Top Front Wing Spars, Fuselage Structure, Crosspieces 11/4"x1/2"x12" Fuselage Structure (Top of cabin, one fuselage side.) 31/4"x1/2"x36" Bottom Front Wing Spars, Spar Doublers, Fuselage Structure 13/4"xTriangle x6" Firewall Braces
Special Shaped Balsa
23/16"x3/8"x1/4"x28" Leading Edge 11/4"x2"x8" Tapered Sheet for Rudder 11/4"x2"x24" Tapered Sheet for Elevator 15/16"x1-1/8"x7" Center Section Trailing Edge
25/16"x1-1/8"x24" Ailerons 23/8"x3/4"x3" FT (Sawn Wedges)
Hardwood
21/4" dia.x5-1/4" Wing Hold-On Dowels 13/8"x3/8"x4" Basswood Cowl Mounting Block Material
Die-Cut Plywood
13/32"x3"x7-1/2" Dihedral Braces WP and WPB 13/32"x4-1/2"x9-1/4" Firewall Parts F-1A and F-1C 11/8"x3-3/4"x11-1/4" FN Nose Doublers 11/8"x12-1/2"x4-1/2" Cabin Formers F-3 and F-4
Sawn Plywood
13/32"x2-1/2"x3-1/2"; LGP Landing Gear Plate 11/8"x4"x12"; Cabin Bottom
Miscellaneous
1.090x1-1/2"x15-9/16" Formed Aluminum Main Landing Gear 1Formed Nose Gear Wire 1Left-Hand Formed Aileron Horn with Brass Bearing 1Right-Hand Formed Aileron Horn with Brass Bearing
1Injection Molded Plastic Cowling 12"x24" Glass Cloth Tape for Wing Center Joint 1Full-Size Printed Plan 136 Page Photo-Illustrated Instruction Booklet
1"Basics of Radio Control" Booklet 13"x4-1/2" Stik-Tite Decal

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Hardware
44-40x3/8" Mounting Bolts for Nose Gear Bearing 44-40x3/4" Mounting Bolts for Main Landing Gear 46-32x3/4" Mounting Bolts for Engine Mounts 28-32x1-1/2" Mounting Bolts for Wheel Axles
4No.2x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws for Control Horns 4No.4x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws for Cowling 16-32x1/4" Self-Tapping Bolt for Steering Arm 48-32 Hex Nuts for Axle Bolts
84-40 Blind Nuts for Nose Gear Bearing and Landing Gear 46-32 Blind Nuts for Engine Mounts 2Molded Glass Filled Engine Mounts 15-32" Molded Nylon Nose Gear Bearing
15/32" Molded Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Brass Insert 1Medium Molded Nylon Control Horn for Rudder 1Large Molded Nylon Control Horn for Elevator 24-40 Molded Nylon Aileron Connectors
42-56x10" Threaded RlC Rods (2Iailerons, 1/rudder, 1/elevator) 42-56 R/C Links (may be metal or nylon) 12Easy Hinges 1Push rod Connector Assembly

WING CONSTRUCTION

1.

Cut 9 1/16" off the end of each of two pieces 1/4"x1/2"x36" main spar stock. Glue these pieces to the remainder as center section spar doublers. Cut two pieces of 1/4" square stock 28 5/8" long. Cut two other pieces 9 1/16" long. Glue the 9 1/16" pieces to the 28 5/8" pieces in the same way as shown in Picture 1 of the 1/4"x1/2" bottom front spar.


2.

These cross section drawings show the placement of the doublers.

3.

Place two of the 3/32"x3"x36" pieces of wing sheeting wood on the plan with one end on the wing center line. Trim off the other end of the wood at the outer edge of the last wing rib. Save the scrap pieces.

4.

Place the two 3/32"x1-1/2"x36" pieces of wing sheeting wood on the plan with one end on the wing center line. Trim off the other end of the wood at the outer edge of the last wing rib. Save the scrap pieces.




5.

  1. Pin one of the 3" wide pieces to the plan.
  2. Pin one of the 1 Y2" wide pieces to the plan


6.

  1. Use some end scrap to make the tip planked section. (Be sure you first cut long pieces from the scrap for the center section before using the remaining scrap for the tip.)
  2. Glue the seams between these pieces when pinning them down to the plan.
  3. Cut cap strips to fit between the sheets.

About Wing Dihedral and Ailerons
We receive occasional comments that the Kadet appears to have too much dihedral for the ailerons to work effectively. While individual builders have reduced the dihedral on their own initiative (and the Kadet flies OK with less dihedral), we do not believe this course is either advisable or necessary for beginners. Reducing the dihedral will make the model roll easier but it also decreases hands-off stability and this is not a good situation for a novice RC flier. During the first periods of learning to fly RC, beginners should not attempt to roll their Kadet but should concentrate on practicing good turns. When the student pilot can easily handle the Kadet in take-off, level flight, and landing, only then should stunts be attempted.

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7. Leave the center section bottom planking pieces until later, after the wing is assembled.


8.

Stack all of the ribs and pin them together. Use scrap wood in the spar holes to align the ribs accurately. Sand the ribs even. Even the front and back also. The rib sanding process may reduce the height of the ribs slightly and thereby reduce the height of the spar slots. Before unpinning the rib stack, check the spar slots with a piece of spar wood. Deepen the slot, if necessary, so that the spar will go completely into the ribs. Do not oversize the slots.

NOTE: The 3/16" sq. provided in the kit for the wing is intentionally slightly oversize to allow for shaping the trailing edge to correct airfoil contour. The 3/16" sq. can be confused with 1/4". Segregate the two sizes of sticks before cutting pieces from them.

9.

Four W-l ribs are supplied on a die cut sheet. For the two W-IA ribs required, take two of the W-2 ribs and convert them to W-IA ribs by use of the pattern shown above.

10.

  1. Pin and glue the front spar assembly previously done in Step 1 to the front bottom planking. Cut the spar to be the same length as the planking sheet.
  2. Using several ribs as a locating guide so that the rear spar is correctly spaced to accept all of the ribs easily, pin and glue the 3/16" sq. rear spar on the rear bottom planking. Cut the spar to be the same length as the planking sheet.

11.

Glue and pin the ribs in place. Glue them to the planking and cap strips as well as to the spars.

12.

Using the dihedral gauge as a guide, glue the center W-l rib to the spars and planking at a slight angle. Pin to hold it at this angle until the glue dries.




Note About 3" Sheet Width
Balsa sheet width varies from 3" to 3 1/16". Therefore the 1/4"x1/2" bottom spar may be entirely on the sheet or protruding off of it slightly, as shown in the step-by-step drawings that follow. This small variation in width causes no problem in the assembly of the wing.

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13.



Pin and glue the 3/16" sq. back edge of the wing on to the back of the ribs and to the planking.
NOTE: At the tip end leave 3/16" square sticking out to be trimmed to fit the wing tip later in step 18.
NOTE: These diagrams are for reference only and are intended to aid your understanding of the wing construction.

Leading Edge
1 Glue the bottom spar and the rear spar at the same time- to the bottom planking sheets.
2 Glue the ribs in place on the spars and to the bottom planking and the cap strip.
3 Glue the shaped leading edge to the bottom planking.
4 Glue the 1/4" square top spar into the ribs.
5 Apply Sig-Bond to the leading edge ribs and top front spar. Pin and glue the planking to the leading edge first. Use pleanty of pins.
6 Bend the planking sheet down to the ribs and the top front spar. Use pins to hold it down. If necessary, wet the top of the wood with a sponge to make it pliable. Don't use water unless required to get the wood in place.
7 Later, when the wing is completed and removed from the building board, shape the leading edge to airfoil contour.

14.

Pin and glue the 1/4"x3/8" special shaped leading edge in place on the front of the ribs and to the planking.
NOTE: At the tip end leave the leading edge long enough to be trimmed later to fit the wing tip WT in step 18.

15.

Cut out the WT wingtip pieces from the printed balsa sheets #1 and #2. Finish evenly to the outside line with a sanding block.

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16. Trim a bevel on the top and bottom using the inside line of the gray shaded portion as a guide for cutting.
Trailing Edge
1 The rear planking and the spar setup are done in the same manner as step one of the leading edge. Then glue the ribs to the spars, the bottom planking and the bottom cap strips.

2 Add the 3/16" square back edge of the wing, gluing it to the planking and the backs of the ribs.
3 Sand down the 3/16" square back edge of the wing to conform to the top line of the ribs.
4 Pin and glue the 3/32"x1" wide top rear planking in place on the ribs and the 3/16" square back.
5 Complete the wing assembly by adding the top capstrips on all ribs which do not have planking on them.


17.

Finish the beveled edges with a small sanding block.


18.

  1. Use the Tip Guide pattern to set the angle of WT. If WT does not sit properly in place at this angle, sand to fit snugly against the rib and bottom planking.
  2. Trim the end of the 3/16" sq. back edge of the wing to fit against WT.
  3. Glue WT to the wing

19.

Using the prepared top spar (Paragraph 1), cut the end at an angle to fit against WT. (The Tip Guide can be used for this angle also.)



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20.
  1. Glue the spar into the rib notches.
  2. Glue the angled end against WT.

21.

Sand the ribs and the bevel on WT to a good match. Use paper on the block to keep from cutting down the ribs while WT is being shaped.

22.

Sand the rest of the wing lightly with a large block. Do not oversand.

23.

A small sanding block is handy to touch up the ribs.

24.

The 3/16" sq. back piece should be beveled slightly on the top to follow the wing contour.




25.

Cut seven 1-1/4" wide strips from the 1/8" x 3-9/16" x 9" balsa included in the kit.

26.

Trim each piece of web to fit snugly between the ribs.



27.

  1. Use the odd piece for the narrow spaced ribs in the center.
  2. Glue the web pieces to the spars and to the bottom planking.
  3. Webbing ends here at the 4th rib from the center.

28.

Trim the tops of the web pieces so that they are even with the top of the main spar.

29.

Sand the web pieces smooth.




30.

  1. Glue the spar and web.
  2. Put glue on each rib between the spar and the leading edge and on the leading edge also.

31.

Pin the leading edge 3/32"x3"x36" top planking sheet in place starting at the leading edge. Use plenty of pins to hold it to the ribs, the tip and the spar. If it will not easily bend in place from the leading edge to the spar, wet the top of the sheet with a cotton swab to make it more pliable and curl it into place. Don't wet it unless it is necessary.

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32. Glue the 3/32"x1"x36" rear top planking sheet in place. Use the waste end for other planking.




33.

Add a piece of 3/32"x3"x36" planking sheet to the top of the wing tip.

34.

Complete the wing tip planking by fitting pieces of 3/32" planking into the remaining opening.

35.

  1. Pin and glue the 3/32" x 3/16" cap strips onto the top of each rib.
  2. The three center section ribs are not cap stripped.




NOTE:
In preparing the Mark II for production, an improvement was made in wing center section construction, so your model will not look exactly like the prototype Mark II on the label.

36.

Plank the center in the same way as the tip with 3/32" sheet.

NOTE:
Some photos showing methods of construction are of other models, but the procedure is the same for the Kadet MK II.


37.

Remove the wing from the board and trim off the planking scrap.

38.

Sand the tip planking flush with WT.

39.

Carve the leading edge to airfoil contour.



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/tr>
40. Sand the leading edge smooth using a long sanding block. Take your time with this step and try to keep the shape uniform along the entire leading edge.

41.

Round the edge of the tip so it will not be knife sharp.

42.

  1. Sand the top of the cap strips and planking even.
  2. Do the same thing on the bottom.





Repeat steps 1 through 42 for the opposite wing half.



43.

Set the wing halves on a flat surface with one tip blocked up and the other half flat on the table.




44.

Raise the one tip 4" at the last W-2 rib. If the joint in the center does not match perfectly, sand one or both center ribs until it does. Glue the halves together with epoxy glue. Have a "wet" joint to insure that the glue will fill any gaps in the seam. It is particularly necessary that the planking sheets, the spars and the leading and trailing edges are thoroughly glued to each other. Take up the wing as soon as the glue has set. It is easier to remove the excess that has squeezed out of the joint if it is peeled off before it cures completely.

45.

Check the servo and/or servo tray you intend to use for the ailerons, and saw out an opening in the W-1 ribs to accommodate it. The plans show a 2-3/8" hole between WP and WPB, which is large enough to fit most standard servos (see the fuselage side view). If your aileron servo is exceptionally large, the opening may need to be longer.

46.

Cut the slots in the other W-l ribs for WP.



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47.
  1. Epoxy glue WP to the spars, ribs & planking.
  2. Add WPB. (May need sanding to fit, depending on location.)
  3. Frame sides of servo compartment with scrap leading edge wood.
  4. Hardwood blocks for servo mount screws.

48.

Cut, pin and glue pieces of 3/32" planking sheet to the bottom of the center section of the wing, leaving the servo hole open. Sand center section bottom smooth.

49.

A typical R/C servo installed in the Kadet wing.




NOTE: Skip this instruction if you are going to have ailerons and go to picture 50. If you are not going to have ailerons, refer to this picture and drawing then skip pictures 50, 51, 52, 53 and 54.

Wing Without Ailerons
If desired, the wing can be built without ailerons for use on 3 channels. If this is desired, simply glue the aileron stock to the back of the wing to form a trailing edge as shown in the accompanying drawing.

50.

Two pieces of aileron stock form the trailing edge of the center section. They must be hollowed out to fit over the aileron horn and brass tube bearing.

Aileron Horns
The aileron horns are bent in a steel jig by hydroulic power. However, due to variations in spring tension in the wire, there may be slight variations in the horn angle. Set the pair of horns side by side, as shown in the photo. If one is not bent as far as the other, give it a twist forward, using two pair of pliers. Careful! It is easy to overbend.

51.

Glue the brass tube bearings on the back of the wing with epoxy glue.

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52. Epoxy the pieces of trailing edge stock over the aileron horn, taking care not to get glue on the horn itself. It is a good idea to put a film of vaseline on the horn (not the bearing - which should stick to the wood) to prevent sticking.

INSTALLING EASY HINGES

Using a No.11 X-Acto blade (or similar) cut a slot approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinge. After all slots have been cut, insert an Easy Hinge halfway into each slot in one of the pieces to be hinged. Then carefully slide the matching model part onto the other half of the hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the part onto the hinges at an angle, one hinge at a time.

At this point the surface to be hinged is attached but not glued. Align the two surfaces and adjust the gap between them as required. For best control response, the gap should be as small as possible but big enough to allow the control surface to move to the maximum deflection that you will require.

Place three or four drops of any brand of cyanoacrylate adhesive (thinnest variety) directly onto the Easy Hinge in the gap. You will notice that the glue is quickly wicked into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all of the hinges. Then turn the surfaces over and repeat the gluing process on the other side of each hinge. After the glue has cured, approximately three minutes, the joint can be flexed. You may notice a slight stiffness in the joint. This can be eliminated by flexing the surface to full deflection each direction a couple of dozen times. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinge as they are almost indestructible.

53.

  1. Draw a centerline on the front of the 5/16"x1-1/8" shaped aileron stock and shaping lines on top and bottom, as indicated on the cross-section drawing.
  2. Carve and sand the front of the aileron stock to shape, so that it can move up and down without bumping the aileron. (Check before gluing in place.)
  3. Slot the aileron to receive the aileron horn wire.
  4. Drill a 3/32" hole in the aileron to take the arm of the aileron horn wire.
NOTE: At this point it is best to apply the fiberglass tape to the wing center joint (see below) and cover both the wing and the ailerons (see the Covering and Finishing instructions). Covering the parts separately is particularly advisable in the case of plastic film covering so that you have access to the edges of the parts with your iron.

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54.

  1. Cut the hinge slots in the wing and ailerons to accept the Easy Hinges. (See above for detailed information on installing the hinges.) Don't apply glue to the hinges yet! Trial fit the ailerons to-be certain they are ready for permanent installation on the wing.
  2. Put a 1-1/2" wide strip of wax paper about 3" long, between the wing and the aileron horn wire to keep the glue that is put into the aileron from being squeezed onto the wing during assembly. Apply 5-minute epoxy to the slot and hole in the aileron. Slide the aileron onto the horn and the hinges all at the same time. Check the positioning of the aileron before the glue sets to be certain it is located properly.
  3. Just before the glue sets up, pull the ends of the strip of wax paper over the horn wire, squeezing the glue into a rounded shape and forming a skin over the wire. After the glue stiffens, any excess that is squeezed up over the aileron can be picked or trimmed off before it is fully cured.
  4. Apply thin CA glue to the hinges as described in the Hinging Section.

APPLYING THE FIBERGLASS WING CENTER TAPE
  1. Cut strips of 2" tape for the top and bottom of the wing center joint.
  2. Coat the wing center section with epoxy glue, about 1-1/4" on each side of the joint, and lay the tape on top of the glue.
  3. Holding one end of the tape so it won't slip, "squeegee" the glue through the tape, with a small paddle made from a scrap of balsa. Scrape over the tape several times with the squeegee paddle to smooth the tape and remove excess glue.
NOTE: Glue a piece of thin scrap plywood or plastic on the trailing edge at the point the wing rubber bands go over the edge to keep them from cutting into the wing. This should be done after covering.