J-3 CUB RC48 WING CONSTRUCTION


NOTE: The basic structure of the Cub wing consists of three separately built components - a flat Center-Section, a Right Wing Panel, and a Left Wing Panel. The Left Wing Panel will be permanently joined to the Center-Section, but the Right Wing Panel will remain removable for ease of transport. Follow the instruction sequence carefully and you'll find that this 2-piece wing design is simple and easy to construct.

10.

Center-Section

Cut the full-size Center-Section drawing out of plan plate 4. Pin it to the building board and cover with wax paper.

a.

Carefully remove the four R1 ribs from the die-cut balsa sheets. Pin them into a stack and true up the edges with a sanding block. Also run the sanding block along the trailing edges of the ribs to make them all the same length. Check the original rib length against the plan. CAUTION: Do not try to sand the entire stack perfectly flush - just sand enough to take off any prominent high spots or burrs. Excessive sanding may make the spar notches in the ribs too small.

b.

While the R1 ribs are still stacked together, use a small sanding "file" to clean up the hole in the ribs where the 1/4"x3/4"x8" Ply Rear Tongue must slide through. Strive for a nice tight fit - not sloppy! When done unpin the stack.

c.

Remove the 1/16" ply ribs R2 and W1A from their die-cut sheet. Hold them together and lightly run the sanding block around the edges to remove any splinters. Set W1A aside until needed in the Right Wing Panel construction.

d.

Glue one of the R1 balsa ribs onto the left side of ply rib R2. Position it carefully to allow for the 3/32" balsa top and bottom sheeting which will be added later. When dry, alter the Rear Tongue cutout in R2 if necessary to match that in R1.




e.

Cut 3/32"x4" sheet balsa to cover the bottom of the Center-Section. Pin in place on the plan being careful not to let the edges of the sheeting extend past the side lines of the drawing. Don't forget to cut the window opening.

f.

Cut to length a 1/4"x3/8" balsa stick and glue it onto the front edge of the bottom sheeting.

g.

All of the spars in the Center-Section are 1/4" square balsa. Cut them to length and glue onto the sheeting using the R1 ribs for spacing them out.

h.

Glue and pin all four R1 ribs and the WS-1 balsa pieces in place. Use a small 90 deg. triangle to assure that the ribs are glued on straight. When dry, sand the tops of the WS-1 pieces down flush with the tops of the ribs.

i.

Add the 1/4" square balsa top spars.

j.

Slide the 1/4"x3/4"x8" Rear Tongue through the R1 ribs and epoxy in place.

k.

Epoxy the 1/4"x7/8"x15-3/4" ply Front Dihedral Brace in place at the front of the ribs. Make sure the brace is centered spanwise so that it will extend an equal distance into both wing panels.

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l.

When dry, unpin the center-section assembly from the plan so that you can see the locations for the ply P3 and the balsa WS-2 pieces. Glue these pieces in place. When dry, sand them down flush with the tops of the ribs.



m.

Cut to length another 1/4"x3/8" balsa stick and glue it onto the top of the Front Dihedral Brace. Carve the excess down flush with the tops of the ribs.

n.

Fill in between the R1 ribs, where the wing bolts will go through, with 5/15"x1-1/8" Tapered T.E. Stock. Carve or sand down flush with the tops of the ribs.

o.

Trial fit the 3/32" die-cut ply Center-Section T.E. Top sheet in place. If you find that there is a gap between it and the bottom T.E. Sheeting, sand down the ends of the ribs and the fill-in stock further until it does fit properly. When satisfied, glue it in place.

p.

Cover the top of the Center-Section with 3/32"x4" sheet balsa.

q.

Locate under the 3/32" balsa bottom sheeting the chamber between the WS-2 pieces. Cut out the bottom sheeting over the chamber. Also cut out a portion of the adjoining R1 balsa rib in the window area. This opening is to allow access to the 6-32 bolt that will be used to hold the Right Wing Panel and Center-Section together.

Do not block sand the Center-Section yet!

11.

Right Wing Panel

Cut the Right Wing Panel drawing out of plan plate 3. Pin it to the building board and cover with wax paper.

a.

Carefully remove all of the wing ribs that are required for this wing panel from the die-cut balsa sheets. Pin them together into one stack and block sand, just as you did for the Center-Section ribs. Put scrap 1/4" square sticks in the spar notches to help hold the stack in alignment while sanding. Don't forget to run the sanding block along the trailing edges, as shown here, to make them all the same length.

b.

Laminate one of the W1 balsa ribs to the right side of ply rib W1A. Position W1 carefully to allow for the 3/32" balsa top and bottom sheeting. Add the ply pieces P-1 and P-2 at the location shown on the plans. When dry, trial fit the W1 rib assembly over the Rear Tongue and Dihedral Brace that are sticking out of the right side of the Center-Section - trim the openings in the rib carefully as necessary for a perfect fit.

c.

While holding the W1 rib assembly up tight against the Center-Section, drill a 5/32" diameter hole through the center of P2 and on into the Center-Section, going completely through P3 also. Epoxy a 6-32 blind nut into P2. Set the Center-Section and W1 ribs aside temporarily.

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d.

Cut two 1/4" Spruce Bottom Spars to length and set in place on the plan.

e.

Cut the 1/4" square Balsa Bottom Spar and Spar Doubler to length. Glue the spar doubler to the spar and pin the assembly to the plan.

f.

Cut to length and pin to the plan the 1/4" square balsa Cross-Support that goes between the two W5 ribs.

g.

Pin and glue all the W2, W3, W4, and W5 ribs in place on the spars. Use a triangle to insure that the ribs are perpendicular to the board.
Note: Do not glue on the W1 rib yet!
Let all joints dry thoroughly, then unpin the assembly from the board and set it aside while you do the next step.

h.

Trim to length and pin in place on the plan the following pieces:
3/32"x1-1/2" Balsa Bottom T.E. Sheeting
3/32"x1-1/2" Balsa Bottom Aileron Sheeting
3/32"x3" Balsa Bottom L.E. Sheeting
3/32"x3" Balsa Bottom Sheeting between ribs W1 and W2.



i.

Glue and pin the rib/spar assembly back in place on top of the bottom sheeting pieces. Be certain of getting the positioning correct. You'll need to shim under the front edge of the 3/32"x3" Balsa L.E. Sheeting to make it follow the contours of the rib.

j.

Slide the W1/W1A rib back onto the Center-Section. Now place the Center-Section against the end of the wing panel by inserting the tip of the Front Dihedral Brace into the opening in the rib W2 and setting the W1/W1A rib onto the bottom spars and sheeting. Note that the center-section should not set flat against the building board - the difference between the openings in the W1 and W2 ribs automatically sets the proper dihedral angle. Once satisfied with the fit, glue the bottom of the W1/W1A rib onto the bottom spars and sheeting. Leave the Center-Section in position while the glue dries so that it holds the W1 rib at the proper angle.

k.

With the Center-Section still in place, add the 1/4" square Spruce Top Spars. Glue all joints securely.

l.

Glue in the 1/16" Spar Webbing where indicated on the plan. A single piece of 1/16"x4-1/8"x36" balsa is provided for making all the spar webs for both wing panels. Note that the webs should be installed with the grain running vertically.

Note: Once steps j, k, and l are dry, unpin the Center-Section and try sliding it out and then back into the wing panel a couple of times to insure that there is no binding up to this point. Leave the wing panel pinned to the board.

m.

One piece of 1/4" square x 9" spruce and two P4 die-cut ply pieces are provided for building a box between ribs W1 and W2 for the Front Dihedral Brace to slide into. First cut the stick into two lengths that fit snugly between the ribs, one on top and one on the bottom of the Dihedral Brace. Then with the Brace in position, tack glue the sticks to the ribs. Be careful not to get any excess glue on the dihedral brace or it may become permanently stuck.

n.

Sand the ends of the ply P4 pieces down until they fit perfectly between the wing ribs and up tight against the front and rear of the Dihedral Brace. When satisfied with the fit, glue them to the spruce sticks and to the ribs. Hold tightly until dry.

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o. Take apart and then reassemble the wing panel and center-section a few times to check the fit. A tight, but not binding fit is needed.

If it seems too tight, take some very fine sandpaper and sand the entire Dihedral Brace slightly to smooth out any rough spots. Rounding all of the corners of the Brace will also make it easier to slide it into the box.
If the fit of your wing panel and center-section is sloppy and loose, find out where the problem is and fix it before preceeding.




Once satisfied with the fit, double glue the box structure securely to the W1 and W2 ribs.

p.

Glue in place the small die-cut balsa riblets W3A, W4A and W4B, and the ply riblet W5A. Be careful about their exact locations. Extend a line off of the die-cut slits in ribs W4 and W5 to use for alignment.

q.

Cut to length and glue in place the 5/16"x1-1/8" balsa Tapered T.E. Stock Fill-In between the last two full length W4 ribs at the wing tip. Take down the top surface with a small sanding block until it's flush with the tops of the ribs.

r.

Glue on the 3/32"x1-1/2" balsa Top Trailing Edge Sheeting. Epoxy glue is recommended here for two reasons: First, it will have less tendancy to bow or warp the trailing edge than would a water based glue. Second, it gives you plenty of time to get the top sheeting pinned down sequrely, absolutely flat on the board, before the glue dries.

s.

Add the 3/32"x1-1/2" balsa Top Aileron Sheeting. Check the location carefully with the aileron cross section drawing.

t.

Glue gusset WG-1 in place against rib W3 and inside the trailing edge sheets.




u.

Cut to length and glue the 1/8"x7/8" Balsa Leading Edge in place along the front of the wing ribs and against the Bottom L.E. Sheeting. When dry, trim and sand flush with the tops of the ribs.

v.

Glue on the 3/32"x3" Balsa Top Leading Edge Sheeting. Also add the sheeting that goes over rib W1 and W2 (cut from 3/32"x4"x36" stock).

w.

When dry, unpin the wing from the plan. Cut to length and glue on all of the 3/32"x1/4" balsa Capstrips for the top and bottom of the wing. Note on the plan that the capstrips over the W3 and W4 ribs that are located near the ends of the ailerons are not centered directly over the ribs - they are flush with one side of the rib.

x.

Install the die-cut ply Jury Strut Mounts, JSM-1 and JSM-2, on the bottom of the wing. JSM-1 must be inset flush into the bottom L.E. Sheeting.

See the wing cross-section on plan plate 3 for a good view of the FSM and RSM pieces in place.

y.

Install the Front Strut Mount pieces in the following sequence:
  1. Insert FSM-1 flush with the bottom Leading Edge Sheeting.
  2. Add FSM-2, a balsa filler block going between the bottom front Spruce Spar & the 1/4" square balsa Cross-Support.
  3. Then glue FSM-3 across the top of FSM-2, the Spruce Spar, and the balsa Cross-Support.

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z. Install the Rear Strut Mount pieces in the same fashion as you just did the FSM pieces - only this time they got between the bottom rear Spruce Spar and the Balsa Bottom Spar.




Do not block sand the right wing panel yet!

12.

Left Wing Panel

Important Note
Many of the construction steps for building this Left Wing Panel are the same as those used for the Right Wing Panel. However, since the Left Wing Panel will be permanently attached to the Center-Section, there are a few differences.

The following is an exact listing of the best procedure for building the Left Wing Panel. Whenever the construction required is the same as for the Right Wing Panel, it has been noted as such. Follow this sequence to the later to avoid problems.

Cut the Left Wing Panel drawing out of plan plate 3. Pin it to the building board and cover with wax paper.

a.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (a)


b.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (d)

c.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (e)

d.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (f)

e.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (g)

f.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (h)

g.

Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (i)

h.

Trial fit the balsa W1 rib over the Rear Tongue and Front Dihedral Brace that are sticking out of the left side of the Center-Section. The edges of the W1 rib must line up exactly with the edges of the R1 rib of the Center-Section. Trim the openings in the W1 rib carefully as required for a perfect fit. Then glue the W1 rib to the R1 rib.

i.

Slide the Center-Section in position against the end of the wing panel by inserting the tip of the Front Dihedral Brace into the opening in rib W2 and setting the W1 rib onto the panel's bottom spas and sheeting. Check the fit carefully! When satisfied that the Center-Section will mate up smoothly to the wing panel, glue the bottom of the W1 rib onto the bottom spars and sheeting. Also glue the end of the Dihedral Brace into rib W2.

j.

Cut to length and glue in the 1/4" square Spruce Top Spars. Glue all the joints securely.

k.

Glue in the 1/16" Spar Webbing where indicated on the plan. The webs should be installed with the grain running vertically.

l.

A single piece of 3/16"x4-7/16"x1-1/2" balsa is provided for the Spar Web that goes between the Front Dihedral Brace and the Spruce Spars in rib bay W1-W2

Finish the construction of the Left Wing Panel by completing Right Wing Panel instructions (p) through (z).
Do not block sand the Left Wing Panel yet!

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13. Wing Tips

a.

Glue die-cut balsa parts T-4, T-5, T-6 and W6 in place on the die-cut ply wingtip plate WTP.

b.

Study the Wingtip Alignment Drawing carefully in preparation for gluing the Tip Plate onto the end of the wing panel. Proper positioning of it against the W4 end rib is important for correct assembly of the rest of the wingtip parts in subsequent steps. First trial fit the Tip Plate assembly in place, noting that the tops of T-4 and T-5 should line up with the top of W4, not with the top of the capstrip. Also note that the front edge of WTP should be flush with the front of the 1/8" balsa Leading Edge. Use a straight edge to draw guidelines on the end rib to help line up the Tip Plate. Then glue it on.

c.

Glue die-cut balsa parts T-l and T-2 in place. Note that they should line up with the top and bottom edges of W4, leaving room for the 3/32" balsa top and bottom sheeting to be added later. Since W4 was stack sanded with the rest of the full-length wing ribs, and T-1 and T-2 were not, it may be necessary to alter the curved sides of T-1 and T-2 to exactly the same curvature as W4, before gluing them on.

d.

Glue on part T-3.

e.

1/16"x3/4"x24" balsa strips are provided for laminating around the edges of the tip. Thanks to the large radius of the curve, it should not be necessary to soak the strips in water before laminating - thus Jet, Hot Stuff, or other cyanacrylate adhesives can be used. Carefully bend and glue the first strip to WTP. Add the other strips, one at a time, firmly gluing them to each other without gaps.

You'll notice that the strips are way oversize to allow for final shaping later.

f.

When the laminated edge is dry, sand flush with the front of the wing panel and glue on the 3/8" x 1" balsa Leading Edge Cap.



g.

Cut a small gusset, from scrap balsa, to go in the corner of the wingtip near the trailing edge. Glue on the top side of WTP only.

h.

Sheet the top and bottom of the Tip Leading Edge with 3/32" balsa.



i.

Capstrip the top and bottom of rib W6.

j.

Carve and sand the wing Leading Edge Cap and the tip laminated edge to shape. Study the photos and drawings carefully for guidance. Do not sand the rest of the wing, especially the top and bottom sheeting or capstrips, at this time - it's best to wait until the center section is done!

14.

Block Sanding The Wing

Carefully block sand the entire wing until all joints are smooth and even. Use as large a sanding block as possible to avoid sanding down any one area too much. Carve and sand the trailing edges round.

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15. Cutting Out The Ailerons

a.

Locate the 1/4" sq. balsa Bottom Spar under the Top and Bottom Aileron Sheeting. Draw guidelines on both sheets about 1/32" behind the spar. Use a straight edge and a sharp knife to cut through the Aileron Sheeting along the guidelines. Make sure you are not cutting into the spar.

b.

Take an X-Acto razor saw and pry the crimped metal backing off of the blade with a screwdriver. Insert the saw blade into the slits just cut in the Aileron Sheeting and saw through each of the ribs of the aileron.

c.

Saw through the trailing edge and carefully remove the aileron.

d.

Trim and sand the back of the wing cutout until all ribs and planking are flush with the back of the balsa spar.




e.

Trim the front of the aileron in line with the angled die-cut slits in the ribs. Use a sanding block to straighten the front and ends of the aileron.

f.

Glue 1/4"x1-1/2" balsa into the wing cutout and to the front of the aileron. Trim and sand these pieces to wing contour.

g.

With a razor saw, cut the base off one of the long nylon control horns that are supplied. Drill some random glue anchor holes in the top area of the horn.

h.

Inlet the bottom leading edge of the aileron to allow the nylon horn to be slid in place alongside the plywood riblet W5A. Refer to the aileron cross-section drawing to see how far in the horn should be installed. Hold the horn in position and drill a small pilot hole (for a #2x3/8" sheet metal screw) through one of the glue anchor holes and into the ply rib. Screw and epoxy the horn securely in place.




i.

Fill in behind the horn, on the bottom of the aileron, with 3/32" sheet balsa. Sand flush. This will give you somewhere to attach the covering material. If you wish to cover the ailerons before hinging, do it now.

j.

Cut slots in the aileron leading edge and the wing cutout to accept the nylon hinges. Use 4 hinges per aileronl Check the fit and movement of the aileron by dry fitting it into the wing first without any glue on the hinges. If there is any mismatch or binding, alter the slots as necessary to correct. Then epoxy the hinges in. Repeat these steps to complete the other aileron.

16.

Mating The Wing To The Fuselage

a.

Epoxy the 3/8"x1-1/2"x5-3/8" basswood Wing Bolt Block in place. Brace it to the lite-ply Cabin Bulkhead with 1" triangular balsa. Let dry.

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b. Set the wing on the fuselage, sliding it forward as far as possible. Mark and drill a 5/32"x5/16" hole in the wing's Front Dihedral Brace for the Cabin Wires to go through. The wing should then slide all the way forward with the trailing edge dropping down in front of the T.E Crosspiece. If necessary, adjust the hole slightly with a rat-tail file to eliminate any binding that keeps the wing from setting flat on the cabin.

c.

Tape or pin the wing in correct alignment with the fuselage measure from the wingtip to the back end of the fuselage. Determine the correct spots on the top of the wing to drill through and hit the Wing Bolt Block in the desired locations for the nylon bolts. Drill through the wing and Wing Bolt Block at the same time with a No.7 drill. Take the wing off and tap the Block with a 1/4-20 tap. Enlarge the holes in the wing to 1/4" diameter to pass the nylon bolts.



d.

Mark the locations for the 1/4" Dowels that go in former F5 (see cross-section F5). With the wing in place on the fuselage, drill 1/4" diameter holes completely through both F5 and the wing's Front Dihedral Brace at the same time. Remove the wing and epoxy the dowels in place in F5. Wipe any excess glue from the wing side of F5.



e.

1-3/4"x2-1/4"x2-1/2" balsa blocks are supplied for making the Cabin Blocks. Study the Front, Top, and Side views of the Cabin Blocks on the fuselage plans. Trim the blocks supplied roughly to match these three viewpoints. Leave them slightly oversize. Then glue them in place on the front of former F5. Sand and trim to match the contour of the wing.

17.

Wing Struts

Assembly of the wing struts requires the completed wing and fuselage.

a.

Locate the two 1/16"x1/2"x2" aluminum strips supplied for the Fuse Strut Fittings. Round all four corners of the strips with a file or grinder, and drill three holes through each with a #33 drill bit (see plan for exact locations). Draw a line across the middle of each strip. clamp it in a vise up to the line, and bend it to the angle shown.

b.

Mount the finished Fuse Strut Fittings in place on the bottom of the fuselage with 4-40x3/8" mounting bolts and blind nuts. Epoxy the blind nuts on the inside of the fuselage.

c.

Two pieces of 1/16"x1" (tapered) x2" aluminum are supplied for making the Lower Strut Fittings. On each piece, round the corners of the narrow end and drill a #33 hole in the location shown on the plan. Also drill several random glue anchor holes along the sides where the spruce struts will be glued on.



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d. Taper the fuselage end of each 1/4"x5/8" Spruce Front Strut so it will fit onto the aluminum Lower Fitting along with the 1/4"x1/2" Spruce Rear Strut.
Then epoxy one Front and one Rear Strut onto each of the Lower Strut Fittings. Make two identical assemblies. Work directly over the Wing Strut plan to insure that the angle between the spruce struts will be correct.
(NOTE: At this point, there is no "right" or "left" difference between the two wing strut assemblies, as is called for on the plan.)

e.

Four pieces of 1/16"x1/2"x2-1/4" aluminum are provided for making the Upper Strut Fittings. Drill, shape, and bend these pieces as shown on the plan to make two #1 and two #2 Upper Strut Fittings. (The difference between the finished right and left wing strut assemblies will be in these Upper Strut Fittings. That's why they are called #1 and #2 on the plan - notice that the slant of their bend lines go in opposite directions.)

f.

Bolt the wing in place on the fuselage. Fasten the wing strut assemblies in position, one on each side of the fuse, by bolting the Lower Strut Fittings to the Fuse Strut Fittings. Make sure you have the shorter front strut of each assembly facing the front of the airplane. Trial fit, without glue, the finished Upper Strut Fittings into the notches in the spruce Struts as follows:

RIGHT WING STRUT ASSEMBLY -

A #2 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Front Spruce Strut
A #1 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Rear Spruce Strut

LEFT WING STRUT ASSEMBLY -

A #1 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Front Spruce Strut
A #2 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Rear Spruce Strut

Check that the Upper Fittings mate smoothly to their ply mounting inserts that are built into the wing. If they don't, double check to see that you've got the correct Upper Fitting in the correct strut. You may also have to readjust the bend angles of the Upper Fittings and/or Fuse Fittings slightly to get a good fit. When satisfied, take the struts off the model and epoxy the Upper Fittings into their proper notches.

g.

When dry, bolt the strut assemblies back on the model. Hold the Upper Fittings up against the bottom of the wing and mark the locations for the 4-40 mounting bolts onto the ply mounting insert FSM and RSM. Take the struts back off. Drill holes through the ply inserts and epoxy 4-40 blind nuts in from the inside.

h.

Carve and sand the edges of the struts round. See cross-section on strut plan.

i.

Reinforce the ends of the spruce struts with a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy glue. Also cover the areas in the center of each strut where the jury struts will go. When dry, sand smooth.

j.

Mark on the spruce struts the locations for the 4-40 flat-head bolts that hold the bottoms of the brass jury struts. Drill a #33 hole through the spruce struts at these locations, countersink the holes so that the heads of the bolts will be flush with the spruce, and then thread the bolts in place.

k.

With a pencil, mark a center-line down the middle of each JSM-1 and JSM-2 plywood insert that are built into the bottoms of the wing. Reassemble the wing, fuselage, and spruce strut assemblies in preparation for the next step.

l.

Four pieces of 3/16" o.d.x6-1/2" long brass tubing are provided for making the Front and Rear Jury Struts. There are patterns and instructions on the plan to use as a guide for bending them to shape. A regular hand pliers works best for flattening and bending the ends of the tubing. Try to bend them exactly along the lines drawn.

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m. Use the 4-40 hex nuts provided to fasten the bottom ends of the finished Front and Rear Jury Struts to the bolts in the spruce struts. Swing the top ends of the Jury Struts into position to line up with the center-lines drawn on the JSM pieces. Be careful not to bow the spruce struts out of shape - just move the top ends of the jury struts fore and aft along the pencil lines until you find the spots where they fit perfectly. Then mark and drill holes through the JSM pieces at these spots and install 4-40 bolts and blind nuts. Epoxy the blind nuts in place.
n. Remove the hex nuts that are holding the bottom of the brass jury struts in place. Two 4-1/2" long pieces of brass tubing are provided for making the bottom crosspieces of the jury struts. Due to small differences between models, it's impossible to give you a useable pattern for these pieces. You'll have to tailor them to fit on your own model. Simply cut the tubing to length, flatten the ends as far as needed to clear the spruce, and drill a #33 hole in each end to slip over the mounting bolts.

o.

Make a final assembly of all the strut pieces to the model. Epoxy the flat head bolts into the spruce struts; epoxy together the lower ends of the brass pieces where they overlap each other; and epoxy on the 4-40 hex nuts that hold them all together. Let dry before taking off the model.


18.


Attaching The Tail Surfaces

If you've precovered the stabilizer, remove the covering material from the bottom center area where it will contact the fuselage.

a.

With the wings mounted to the fuselage, pin the hinged stab/elevator assembly in place. Note that the fuse will need to be trimmed slightly under the elevator joiner to permit adequate movement of the elevators. Carefully align the stab with the wings from the top and front views. Mark the location of the fuse on the top and bottom of the stab center section. Remove the stab and apply epoxy glue. Slow drying epoxy (not 5-minute) is recommended to allow adequate time to get the stab in exact alignment before the glue hardens. Pin the stab back in place using the markings to get it in approximate alignment. Before the glue hardens, recheck the alignment carefully by measurement and shift the stab position slightly if necessary.


b.

Epoxy the hinged fin/rudder assembly in place, installing the bottom hinge into the rear of the fuselage at the same time. Align carefully.

c.

Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa Tail Fairings in place. They should be flush with the fuselage sides at the stab leading edge and touching the fin at the back.